S1 Custom Settings

Overseer said:

On a side note did you recieve my request ? - I emailed you direct
using your DPreview email - is that email still active ?

Click to expand...

Joe Reilly said:

Naive me, I expected a couple of requests easily handled via email.
Anyhow, I posted my two principal action sets, plus another utility
set I use sporadically. As I shared in email with some folks, no
warranties, expressed or implied. Also, I use Photoshop CS
exclusively; I've received word that they don't work with PS6, and
I'm not entirely sure about compatibility with PS7. I upgraded as
soon as PS CS came out, so they've been tweaked there for months...

http://home.comcast.net/~jvreilly/JVR_Actions.zip

I hope that those folks who intend to use them regularly will take
time to understand their steps. In honesty, there's no "secret
sauce" in any of them. Just some trusted editing techniques
accumulated over 2 years of photography.

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

Click to expand...

Joe Reilly said:

Hey folks,

By way of introduction, I've been active on DPReview for two years,
primarily on the Sony Talk Forum and, for the last year, the Canon
10D/D60/D30 forum. I launched the initial Canon DSLR Challenge
last September and I've been active there since. So, not new to
Canon, but new to this forum. Earlier this week, I picked up a
PowerShot S1 as my carry-everywhere camera and I'm having a ball.
Much of what I read here helped me make that decision, so I wanted
to offer something back. Hope it is helpful to some...

A tip I would offer to anyone accustom to post-processing most/all
of their images: Use the Custom Effect (off the Function menu) to
set your Sharpness, Contrast, and Saturation to Low. To be sure,
images come off the camera with less pop, but they are better
positioned for desktop work. Why I think so...

SHARPNESS: In experimenting with over 100 images thus far, I've
found that Low Sharpening yields a cleaner image and one that
better responds to Photoshop sharpening techniques. S1 images
sharpen very nicely via my prefered method, one that cans (into a
Photoshop action) L*A*B conversion, edge masking, variable USM, and
conversion back to RGB. Crisp and clean without crunchies. If
anyone is interested, I can email my Photoshop action set. In
addition, this minimizes image noise at higher ISOs and makes it
easier to remove at the desktop (I use Neat Image).

CONTRAST: In experimenting with excess contrast scenes, the lower
setting seems to reduce the amount of clipping at either end. Be
it a landscape shot (e.g. bright, hazy sky + much darker
foreground) or any other blend of strong darks and brights, the
output usually keeps all image data in usable form. Sure, lower
contrast shots have a slightly compressed histogram, but they seem
to rebound in Photoshop very nicely. In short, this setting seems
to preserve more image data.

SATURATION: Adding saturation at the desktop is easy, while
removing it or changing its distribution is more difficult. In my
brief experience, the S1 saturation boost favors red/orange/yellow
too much. Medium or high saturation settings yielded, in
neighborhood shots at dusk, over-powering reds in brickwork, but
comparatively muted greens and blues elsewhere. At the desktop, I
found it easy (via selective Hue/Sat or a more complex
masking/channel mixing action) to increment colors where desired
and leave others alone. Net: With the low saturation setting, I
found it easier and faster to balance saturation to my tastes.


For all you control-freak/desktop junkies (e.g. me), its worth a
day or two at these "less flattering" settings to see (for
yourself) how the output merges with your post-processing workflow.
I'm thrilled with what the S1 and 30 seconds of post-work generate.
Thrilled.

Thanks,
Joe

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

Click to expand...

cariblove said:

i hope one day i will buy a cam as your !
anyway, i have a S1 and i didsome shoot and i want to try
your your photoshop action set.

Can you email it for me please ?

i'm french from the caribbean and my english is not very good
and i try to do my best.

thank u again
email : [email protected]

http://www.pbase.com/carib_love

Joe Reilly said:

Hey folks,

By way of introduction, I've been active on DPReview for two years,
primarily on the Sony Talk Forum and, for the last year, the Canon
10D/D60/D30 forum. I launched the initial Canon DSLR Challenge
last September and I've been active there since. So, not new to
Canon, but new to this forum. Earlier this week, I picked up a
PowerShot S1 as my carry-everywhere camera and I'm having a ball.
Much of what I read here helped me make that decision, so I wanted
to offer something back. Hope it is helpful to some...

A tip I would offer to anyone accustom to post-processing most/all
of their images: Use the Custom Effect (off the Function menu) to
set your Sharpness, Contrast, and Saturation to Low. To be sure,
images come off the camera with less pop, but they are better
positioned for desktop work. Why I think so...

SHARPNESS: In experimenting with over 100 images thus far, I've
found that Low Sharpening yields a cleaner image and one that
better responds to Photoshop sharpening techniques. S1 images
sharpen very nicely via my prefered method, one that cans (into a
Photoshop action) L*A*B conversion, edge masking, variable USM, and
conversion back to RGB. Crisp and clean without crunchies. If
anyone is interested, I can email my Photoshop action set. In
addition, this minimizes image noise at higher ISOs and makes it
easier to remove at the desktop (I use Neat Image).

CONTRAST: In experimenting with excess contrast scenes, the lower
setting seems to reduce the amount of clipping at either end. Be
it a landscape shot (e.g. bright, hazy sky + much darker
foreground) or any other blend of strong darks and brights, the
output usually keeps all image data in usable form. Sure, lower
contrast shots have a slightly compressed histogram, but they seem
to rebound in Photoshop very nicely. In short, this setting seems
to preserve more image data.

SATURATION: Adding saturation at the desktop is easy, while
removing it or changing its distribution is more difficult. In my
brief experience, the S1 saturation boost favors red/orange/yellow
too much. Medium or high saturation settings yielded, in
neighborhood shots at dusk, over-powering reds in brickwork, but
comparatively muted greens and blues elsewhere. At the desktop, I
found it easy (via selective Hue/Sat or a more complex
masking/channel mixing action) to increment colors where desired
and leave others alone. Net: With the low saturation setting, I
found it easier and faster to balance saturation to my tastes.


For all you control-freak/desktop junkies (e.g. me), its worth a
day or two at these "less flattering" settings to see (for
yourself) how the output merges with your post-processing workflow.
I'm thrilled with what the S1 and 30 seconds of post-work generate.
Thrilled.

Thanks,
Joe

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Joe Reilly said:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1010&message=9638699

cariblove said:

i hope one day i will buy a cam as your !
anyway, i have a S1 and i didsome shoot and i want to try
your your photoshop action set.

Can you email it for me please ?

i'm french from the caribbean and my english is not very good
and i try to do my best.

thank u again
email : [email protected]

http://www.pbase.com/carib_love

Joe Reilly said:

Hey folks,

By way of introduction, I've been active on DPReview for two years,
primarily on the Sony Talk Forum and, for the last year, the Canon
10D/D60/D30 forum. I launched the initial Canon DSLR Challenge
last September and I've been active there since. So, not new to
Canon, but new to this forum. Earlier this week, I picked up a
PowerShot S1 as my carry-everywhere camera and I'm having a ball.
Much of what I read here helped me make that decision, so I wanted
to offer something back. Hope it is helpful to some...

A tip I would offer to anyone accustom to post-processing most/all
of their images: Use the Custom Effect (off the Function menu) to
set your Sharpness, Contrast, and Saturation to Low. To be sure,
images come off the camera with less pop, but they are better
positioned for desktop work. Why I think so...

SHARPNESS: In experimenting with over 100 images thus far, I've
found that Low Sharpening yields a cleaner image and one that
better responds to Photoshop sharpening techniques. S1 images
sharpen very nicely via my prefered method, one that cans (into a
Photoshop action) L*A*B conversion, edge masking, variable USM, and
conversion back to RGB. Crisp and clean without crunchies. If
anyone is interested, I can email my Photoshop action set. In
addition, this minimizes image noise at higher ISOs and makes it
easier to remove at the desktop (I use Neat Image).

CONTRAST: In experimenting with excess contrast scenes, the lower
setting seems to reduce the amount of clipping at either end. Be
it a landscape shot (e.g. bright, hazy sky + much darker
foreground) or any other blend of strong darks and brights, the
output usually keeps all image data in usable form. Sure, lower
contrast shots have a slightly compressed histogram, but they seem
to rebound in Photoshop very nicely. In short, this setting seems
to preserve more image data.

SATURATION: Adding saturation at the desktop is easy, while
removing it or changing its distribution is more difficult. In my
brief experience, the S1 saturation boost favors red/orange/yellow
too much. Medium or high saturation settings yielded, in
neighborhood shots at dusk, over-powering reds in brickwork, but
comparatively muted greens and blues elsewhere. At the desktop, I
found it easy (via selective Hue/Sat or a more complex
masking/channel mixing action) to increment colors where desired
and leave others alone. Net: With the low saturation setting, I
found it easier and faster to balance saturation to my tastes.


For all you control-freak/desktop junkies (e.g. me), its worth a
day or two at these "less flattering" settings to see (for
yourself) how the output merges with your post-processing workflow.
I'm thrilled with what the S1 and 30 seconds of post-work generate.
Thrilled.

Thanks,
Joe

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

Click to expand...

cariblove said:

can i sending you a pix i did with my S1 and let me see what
is the best result you can give me.
i want to compare your work and my work.
it's always good.

what is your email please if i can ask ?

Joe Reilly said:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1010&message=9638699

cariblove said:

i hope one day i will buy a cam as your !
anyway, i have a S1 and i didsome shoot and i want to try
your your photoshop action set.

Can you email it for me please ?

i'm french from the caribbean and my english is not very good
and i try to do my best.

thank u again
email : [email protected]

http://www.pbase.com/carib_love

Joe Reilly said:

Hey folks,

By way of introduction, I've been active on DPReview for two years,
primarily on the Sony Talk Forum and, for the last year, the Canon
10D/D60/D30 forum. I launched the initial Canon DSLR Challenge
last September and I've been active there since. So, not new to
Canon, but new to this forum. Earlier this week, I picked up a
PowerShot S1 as my carry-everywhere camera and I'm having a ball.
Much of what I read here helped me make that decision, so I wanted
to offer something back. Hope it is helpful to some...

A tip I would offer to anyone accustom to post-processing most/all
of their images: Use the Custom Effect (off the Function menu) to
set your Sharpness, Contrast, and Saturation to Low. To be sure,
images come off the camera with less pop, but they are better
positioned for desktop work. Why I think so...

SHARPNESS: In experimenting with over 100 images thus far, I've
found that Low Sharpening yields a cleaner image and one that
better responds to Photoshop sharpening techniques. S1 images
sharpen very nicely via my prefered method, one that cans (into a
Photoshop action) L*A*B conversion, edge masking, variable USM, and
conversion back to RGB. Crisp and clean without crunchies. If
anyone is interested, I can email my Photoshop action set. In
addition, this minimizes image noise at higher ISOs and makes it
easier to remove at the desktop (I use Neat Image).

CONTRAST: In experimenting with excess contrast scenes, the lower
setting seems to reduce the amount of clipping at either end. Be
it a landscape shot (e.g. bright, hazy sky + much darker
foreground) or any other blend of strong darks and brights, the
output usually keeps all image data in usable form. Sure, lower
contrast shots have a slightly compressed histogram, but they seem
to rebound in Photoshop very nicely. In short, this setting seems
to preserve more image data.

SATURATION: Adding saturation at the desktop is easy, while
removing it or changing its distribution is more difficult. In my
brief experience, the S1 saturation boost favors red/orange/yellow
too much. Medium or high saturation settings yielded, in
neighborhood shots at dusk, over-powering reds in brickwork, but
comparatively muted greens and blues elsewhere. At the desktop, I
found it easy (via selective Hue/Sat or a more complex
masking/channel mixing action) to increment colors where desired
and leave others alone. Net: With the low saturation setting, I
found it easier and faster to balance saturation to my tastes.


For all you control-freak/desktop junkies (e.g. me), its worth a
day or two at these "less flattering" settings to see (for
yourself) how the output merges with your post-processing workflow.
I'm thrilled with what the S1 and 30 seconds of post-work generate.
Thrilled.

Thanks,
Joe

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Joe Reilly said:

cariblove said:

can i sending you a pix i did with my S1 and let me see what
is the best result you can give me.
i want to compare your work and my work.
it's always good.

what is your email please if i can ask ?

Joe Reilly said:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1010&message=9638699

cariblove said:

i hope one day i will buy a cam as your !
anyway, i have a S1 and i didsome shoot and i want to try
your your photoshop action set.

Can you email it for me please ?

i'm french from the caribbean and my english is not very good
and i try to do my best.

thank u again
email : [email protected]

http://www.pbase.com/carib_love

Joe Reilly said:

Hey folks,

By way of introduction, I've been active on DPReview for two years,
primarily on the Sony Talk Forum and, for the last year, the Canon
10D/D60/D30 forum. I launched the initial Canon DSLR Challenge
last September and I've been active there since. So, not new to
Canon, but new to this forum. Earlier this week, I picked up a
PowerShot S1 as my carry-everywhere camera and I'm having a ball.
Much of what I read here helped me make that decision, so I wanted
to offer something back. Hope it is helpful to some...

A tip I would offer to anyone accustom to post-processing most/all
of their images: Use the Custom Effect (off the Function menu) to
set your Sharpness, Contrast, and Saturation to Low. To be sure,
images come off the camera with less pop, but they are better
positioned for desktop work. Why I think so...

SHARPNESS: In experimenting with over 100 images thus far, I've
found that Low Sharpening yields a cleaner image and one that
better responds to Photoshop sharpening techniques. S1 images
sharpen very nicely via my prefered method, one that cans (into a
Photoshop action) L*A*B conversion, edge masking, variable USM, and
conversion back to RGB. Crisp and clean without crunchies. If
anyone is interested, I can email my Photoshop action set. In
addition, this minimizes image noise at higher ISOs and makes it
easier to remove at the desktop (I use Neat Image).

CONTRAST: In experimenting with excess contrast scenes, the lower
setting seems to reduce the amount of clipping at either end. Be
it a landscape shot (e.g. bright, hazy sky + much darker
foreground) or any other blend of strong darks and brights, the
output usually keeps all image data in usable form. Sure, lower
contrast shots have a slightly compressed histogram, but they seem
to rebound in Photoshop very nicely. In short, this setting seems
to preserve more image data.

SATURATION: Adding saturation at the desktop is easy, while
removing it or changing its distribution is more difficult. In my
brief experience, the S1 saturation boost favors red/orange/yellow
too much. Medium or high saturation settings yielded, in
neighborhood shots at dusk, over-powering reds in brickwork, but
comparatively muted greens and blues elsewhere. At the desktop, I
found it easy (via selective Hue/Sat or a more complex
masking/channel mixing action) to increment colors where desired
and leave others alone. Net: With the low saturation setting, I
found it easier and faster to balance saturation to my tastes.


For all you control-freak/desktop junkies (e.g. me), its worth a
day or two at these "less flattering" settings to see (for
yourself) how the output merges with your post-processing workflow.
I'm thrilled with what the S1 and 30 seconds of post-work generate.
Thrilled.

Thanks,
Joe

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

Click to expand...

cariblove said:

Joe Reilly said:

cariblove said:

can i sending you a pix i did with my S1 and let me see what
is the best result you can give me.
i want to compare your work and my work.
it's always good.

what is your email please if i can ask ?

Joe Reilly said:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1010&message=9638699

cariblove said:

i hope one day i will buy a cam as your !
anyway, i have a S1 and i didsome shoot and i want to try
your your photoshop action set.

Can you email it for me please ?

i'm french from the caribbean and my english is not very good
and i try to do my best.

thank u again
email : [email protected]

http://www.pbase.com/carib_love

Joe Reilly said:

Hey folks,

By way of introduction, I've been active on DPReview for two years,
primarily on the Sony Talk Forum and, for the last year, the Canon
10D/D60/D30 forum. I launched the initial Canon DSLR Challenge
last September and I've been active there since. So, not new to
Canon, but new to this forum. Earlier this week, I picked up a
PowerShot S1 as my carry-everywhere camera and I'm having a ball.
Much of what I read here helped me make that decision, so I wanted
to offer something back. Hope it is helpful to some...

A tip I would offer to anyone accustom to post-processing most/all
of their images: Use the Custom Effect (off the Function menu) to
set your Sharpness, Contrast, and Saturation to Low. To be sure,
images come off the camera with less pop, but they are better
positioned for desktop work. Why I think so...

SHARPNESS: In experimenting with over 100 images thus far, I've
found that Low Sharpening yields a cleaner image and one that
better responds to Photoshop sharpening techniques. S1 images
sharpen very nicely via my prefered method, one that cans (into a
Photoshop action) L*A*B conversion, edge masking, variable USM, and
conversion back to RGB. Crisp and clean without crunchies. If
anyone is interested, I can email my Photoshop action set. In
addition, this minimizes image noise at higher ISOs and makes it
easier to remove at the desktop (I use Neat Image).

CONTRAST: In experimenting with excess contrast scenes, the lower
setting seems to reduce the amount of clipping at either end. Be
it a landscape shot (e.g. bright, hazy sky + much darker
foreground) or any other blend of strong darks and brights, the
output usually keeps all image data in usable form. Sure, lower
contrast shots have a slightly compressed histogram, but they seem
to rebound in Photoshop very nicely. In short, this setting seems
to preserve more image data.

SATURATION: Adding saturation at the desktop is easy, while
removing it or changing its distribution is more difficult. In my
brief experience, the S1 saturation boost favors red/orange/yellow
too much. Medium or high saturation settings yielded, in
neighborhood shots at dusk, over-powering reds in brickwork, but
comparatively muted greens and blues elsewhere. At the desktop, I
found it easy (via selective Hue/Sat or a more complex
masking/channel mixing action) to increment colors where desired
and leave others alone. Net: With the low saturation setting, I
found it easier and faster to balance saturation to my tastes.


For all you control-freak/desktop junkies (e.g. me), its worth a
day or two at these "less flattering" settings to see (for
yourself) how the output merges with your post-processing workflow.
I'm thrilled with what the S1 and 30 seconds of post-work generate.
Thrilled.

Thanks,
Joe

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

cariblove said:

cariblove said:

Joe Reilly said:

cariblove said:

can i sending you a pix i did with my S1 and let me see what
is the best result you can give me.
i want to compare your work and my work.
it's always good.

what is your email please if i can ask ?

Joe Reilly said:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1010&message=9638699

cariblove said:

i hope one day i will buy a cam as your !
anyway, i have a S1 and i didsome shoot and i want to try
your your photoshop action set.

Can you email it for me please ?

i'm french from the caribbean and my english is not very good
and i try to do my best.

thank u again
email : [email protected]

http://www.pbase.com/carib_love

Joe Reilly said:

Hey folks,

By way of introduction, I've been active on DPReview for two years,
primarily on the Sony Talk Forum and, for the last year, the Canon
10D/D60/D30 forum. I launched the initial Canon DSLR Challenge
last September and I've been active there since. So, not new to
Canon, but new to this forum. Earlier this week, I picked up a
PowerShot S1 as my carry-everywhere camera and I'm having a ball.
Much of what I read here helped me make that decision, so I wanted
to offer something back. Hope it is helpful to some...

A tip I would offer to anyone accustom to post-processing most/all
of their images: Use the Custom Effect (off the Function menu) to
set your Sharpness, Contrast, and Saturation to Low. To be sure,
images come off the camera with less pop, but they are better
positioned for desktop work. Why I think so...

SHARPNESS: In experimenting with over 100 images thus far, I've
found that Low Sharpening yields a cleaner image and one that
better responds to Photoshop sharpening techniques. S1 images
sharpen very nicely via my prefered method, one that cans (into a
Photoshop action) L*A*B conversion, edge masking, variable USM, and
conversion back to RGB. Crisp and clean without crunchies. If
anyone is interested, I can email my Photoshop action set. In
addition, this minimizes image noise at higher ISOs and makes it
easier to remove at the desktop (I use Neat Image).

CONTRAST: In experimenting with excess contrast scenes, the lower
setting seems to reduce the amount of clipping at either end. Be
it a landscape shot (e.g. bright, hazy sky + much darker
foreground) or any other blend of strong darks and brights, the
output usually keeps all image data in usable form. Sure, lower
contrast shots have a slightly compressed histogram, but they seem
to rebound in Photoshop very nicely. In short, this setting seems
to preserve more image data.

SATURATION: Adding saturation at the desktop is easy, while
removing it or changing its distribution is more difficult. In my
brief experience, the S1 saturation boost favors red/orange/yellow
too much. Medium or high saturation settings yielded, in
neighborhood shots at dusk, over-powering reds in brickwork, but
comparatively muted greens and blues elsewhere. At the desktop, I
found it easy (via selective Hue/Sat or a more complex
masking/channel mixing action) to increment colors where desired
and leave others alone. Net: With the low saturation setting, I
found it easier and faster to balance saturation to my tastes.


For all you control-freak/desktop junkies (e.g. me), its worth a
day or two at these "less flattering" settings to see (for
yourself) how the output merges with your post-processing workflow.
I'm thrilled with what the S1 and 30 seconds of post-work generate.
Thrilled.

Thanks,
Joe

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Joe Reilly said:

cariblove said:

cariblove said:

Joe Reilly said:

cariblove said:

can i sending you a pix i did with my S1 and let me see what
is the best result you can give me.
i want to compare your work and my work.
it's always good.

what is your email please if i can ask ?

Joe Reilly said:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1010&message=9638699

cariblove said:

i hope one day i will buy a cam as your !
anyway, i have a S1 and i didsome shoot and i want to try
your your photoshop action set.

Can you email it for me please ?

i'm french from the caribbean and my english is not very good
and i try to do my best.

thank u again
email : [email protected]

http://www.pbase.com/carib_love

Joe Reilly said:

Hey folks,

By way of introduction, I've been active on DPReview for two years,
primarily on the Sony Talk Forum and, for the last year, the Canon
10D/D60/D30 forum. I launched the initial Canon DSLR Challenge
last September and I've been active there since. So, not new to
Canon, but new to this forum. Earlier this week, I picked up a
PowerShot S1 as my carry-everywhere camera and I'm having a ball.
Much of what I read here helped me make that decision, so I wanted
to offer something back. Hope it is helpful to some...

A tip I would offer to anyone accustom to post-processing most/all
of their images: Use the Custom Effect (off the Function menu) to
set your Sharpness, Contrast, and Saturation to Low. To be sure,
images come off the camera with less pop, but they are better
positioned for desktop work. Why I think so...

SHARPNESS: In experimenting with over 100 images thus far, I've
found that Low Sharpening yields a cleaner image and one that
better responds to Photoshop sharpening techniques. S1 images
sharpen very nicely via my prefered method, one that cans (into a
Photoshop action) L*A*B conversion, edge masking, variable USM, and
conversion back to RGB. Crisp and clean without crunchies. If
anyone is interested, I can email my Photoshop action set. In
addition, this minimizes image noise at higher ISOs and makes it
easier to remove at the desktop (I use Neat Image).

CONTRAST: In experimenting with excess contrast scenes, the lower
setting seems to reduce the amount of clipping at either end. Be
it a landscape shot (e.g. bright, hazy sky + much darker
foreground) or any other blend of strong darks and brights, the
output usually keeps all image data in usable form. Sure, lower
contrast shots have a slightly compressed histogram, but they seem
to rebound in Photoshop very nicely. In short, this setting seems
to preserve more image data.

SATURATION: Adding saturation at the desktop is easy, while
removing it or changing its distribution is more difficult. In my
brief experience, the S1 saturation boost favors red/orange/yellow
too much. Medium or high saturation settings yielded, in
neighborhood shots at dusk, over-powering reds in brickwork, but
comparatively muted greens and blues elsewhere. At the desktop, I
found it easy (via selective Hue/Sat or a more complex
masking/channel mixing action) to increment colors where desired
and leave others alone. Net: With the low saturation setting, I
found it easier and faster to balance saturation to my tastes.


For all you control-freak/desktop junkies (e.g. me), its worth a
day or two at these "less flattering" settings to see (for
yourself) how the output merges with your post-processing workflow.
I'm thrilled with what the S1 and 30 seconds of post-work generate.
Thrilled.

Thanks,
Joe

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

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thefly said:

Joe,

Do you have instructions for your action for PhotoShop Elements?

--
Lee

~ Be the person your dog thinks you are. ~

http://www.flyfamily.org

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Joe Reilly said:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0782141781/102-5618745-3273765?v=glance

It exposes the ability to run actions. Unfortunately, actions need
to be tailored to Elements to run effectively. I am certain most
of mine contain something that would offend Elements. As an
alternative, let me recommend another book that will take your own
editing techniques to the next level...

"The Photoshop Elements Book for Digital Photographers", by Scott
Kelby...

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0735713928/qid=1090631372/sr=1-2/ref=sr_1_2/102-5618745-3273765?v=glance&s=books

Scott Kelby rocks. I've bought/read both editions (PC CS, PS7.0)
of his related work, "The Adobe Photoshop Book for Digital
Photographers". I've also bought/read his "Adobe Photoshop CS Down
and Dirty Tricks". With each, I found something of enduring value
on every page. A lot of my action set is built upon techniques he
teaches.

Joe

thefly said:

Joe,

Do you have instructions for your action for PhotoShop Elements?

--
Lee

~ Be the person your dog thinks you are. ~

http://www.flyfamily.org

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--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix

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Zaphoto said:

I would also really like your action set.
My e-mail address : [email protected]

Thanks a lot!

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weaver49 said:

Hi there. I am late but have been awau from the computer the last
couple a days. It is just too nice out. Anyhow I would like to
request an email of your action set. I am just completing a level
two course on photoshop and any fun stuff would be appreciated.
Huge learning curve this program along with the learning curve on
my two month old Cannon S1 IS it is cramming my brain. thanks in
advance.
Pamela
[email protected]

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