Joe Reilly129599
Senior Member
Hey folks,
By way of introduction, I've been active on DPReview for two years, primarily on the Sony Talk Forum and, for the last year, the Canon 10D/D60/D30 forum. I launched the initial Canon DSLR Challenge last September and I've been active there since. So, not new to Canon, but new to this forum. Earlier this week, I picked up a PowerShot S1 as my carry-everywhere camera and I'm having a ball. Much of what I read here helped me make that decision, so I wanted to offer something back. Hope it is helpful to some...
A tip I would offer to anyone accustom to post-processing most/all of their images: Use the Custom Effect (off the Function menu) to set your Sharpness, Contrast, and Saturation to Low. To be sure, images come off the camera with less pop, but they are better positioned for desktop work. Why I think so...
SHARPNESS: In experimenting with over 100 images thus far, I've found that Low Sharpening yields a cleaner image and one that better responds to Photoshop sharpening techniques. S1 images sharpen very nicely via my prefered method, one that cans (into a Photoshop action) L*A*B conversion, edge masking, variable USM, and conversion back to RGB. Crisp and clean without crunchies. If anyone is interested, I can email my Photoshop action set. In addition, this minimizes image noise at higher ISOs and makes it easier to remove at the desktop (I use Neat Image).
CONTRAST: In experimenting with excess contrast scenes, the lower setting seems to reduce the amount of clipping at either end. Be it a landscape shot (e.g. bright, hazy sky + much darker foreground) or any other blend of strong darks and brights, the output usually keeps all image data in usable form. Sure, lower contrast shots have a slightly compressed histogram, but they seem to rebound in Photoshop very nicely. In short, this setting seems to preserve more image data.
SATURATION: Adding saturation at the desktop is easy, while removing it or changing its distribution is more difficult. In my brief experience, the S1 saturation boost favors red/orange/yellow too much. Medium or high saturation settings yielded, in neighborhood shots at dusk, over-powering reds in brickwork, but comparatively muted greens and blues elsewhere. At the desktop, I found it easy (via selective Hue/Sat or a more complex masking/channel mixing action) to increment colors where desired and leave others alone. Net: With the low saturation setting, I found it easier and faster to balance saturation to my tastes.
For all you control-freak/desktop junkies (e.g. me), its worth a day or two at these "less flattering" settings to see (for yourself) how the output merges with your post-processing workflow. I'm thrilled with what the S1 and 30 seconds of post-work generate. Thrilled.
Thanks,
Joe
--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix
By way of introduction, I've been active on DPReview for two years, primarily on the Sony Talk Forum and, for the last year, the Canon 10D/D60/D30 forum. I launched the initial Canon DSLR Challenge last September and I've been active there since. So, not new to Canon, but new to this forum. Earlier this week, I picked up a PowerShot S1 as my carry-everywhere camera and I'm having a ball. Much of what I read here helped me make that decision, so I wanted to offer something back. Hope it is helpful to some...
A tip I would offer to anyone accustom to post-processing most/all of their images: Use the Custom Effect (off the Function menu) to set your Sharpness, Contrast, and Saturation to Low. To be sure, images come off the camera with less pop, but they are better positioned for desktop work. Why I think so...
SHARPNESS: In experimenting with over 100 images thus far, I've found that Low Sharpening yields a cleaner image and one that better responds to Photoshop sharpening techniques. S1 images sharpen very nicely via my prefered method, one that cans (into a Photoshop action) L*A*B conversion, edge masking, variable USM, and conversion back to RGB. Crisp and clean without crunchies. If anyone is interested, I can email my Photoshop action set. In addition, this minimizes image noise at higher ISOs and makes it easier to remove at the desktop (I use Neat Image).
CONTRAST: In experimenting with excess contrast scenes, the lower setting seems to reduce the amount of clipping at either end. Be it a landscape shot (e.g. bright, hazy sky + much darker foreground) or any other blend of strong darks and brights, the output usually keeps all image data in usable form. Sure, lower contrast shots have a slightly compressed histogram, but they seem to rebound in Photoshop very nicely. In short, this setting seems to preserve more image data.
SATURATION: Adding saturation at the desktop is easy, while removing it or changing its distribution is more difficult. In my brief experience, the S1 saturation boost favors red/orange/yellow too much. Medium or high saturation settings yielded, in neighborhood shots at dusk, over-powering reds in brickwork, but comparatively muted greens and blues elsewhere. At the desktop, I found it easy (via selective Hue/Sat or a more complex masking/channel mixing action) to increment colors where desired and leave others alone. Net: With the low saturation setting, I found it easier and faster to balance saturation to my tastes.
For all you control-freak/desktop junkies (e.g. me), its worth a day or two at these "less flattering" settings to see (for yourself) how the output merges with your post-processing workflow. I'm thrilled with what the S1 and 30 seconds of post-work generate. Thrilled.
Thanks,
Joe
--
http://www.pbase.com/misterpix
