I don't own D2h, and I am increasingly happy that I resisted from
buying it.
One of the things I do a lot with my D100 images is selectively brighten
shadow parts. Suppose that I have a scene with a sun lit, snow covered
mountain in the distance and a forest in the shadow in the foreground.
If I take an exposure that covers the mountain correctly, the forest
will come out way too dark. The obvious solution is to take the
forest and other dark parts and selectively brighten it. With the D100,
you can do this to a reasonable extent without having too much noise.
It's a good way of cheating a little with the limited dynamic range of
a digital camera, at the expense of some noise.
Now what you are telling is that you can't do this with the D2h, because
noise pops up very fast as soon as you brighten underexposed pixels.
This sounds very bad to me because there are many circumstances where
you want to do this, even with a perfect exposure.
respect to noise). The only logical explanation of this would be
that Nikon has a really lousy implementation of their exposure
compensation. Have you been able to reproduce his with other
images?
itself, but the fact that the image saturates in such an ugly way.
Basically, it's a brick wall the sensor bounces at, whereas traditional
film reaches that limit in a smooth way. As a consequence, saturated
areas on a digital picture tend to look very artificial and distracting
--
Vtie
http://www.pbase.com/vtie
buying it.
One of the things I do a lot with my D100 images is selectively brighten
shadow parts. Suppose that I have a scene with a sun lit, snow covered
mountain in the distance and a forest in the shadow in the foreground.
If I take an exposure that covers the mountain correctly, the forest
will come out way too dark. The obvious solution is to take the
forest and other dark parts and selectively brighten it. With the D100,
you can do this to a reasonable extent without having too much noise.
It's a good way of cheating a little with the limited dynamic range of
a digital camera, at the expense of some noise.
Now what you are telling is that you can't do this with the D2h, because
noise pops up very fast as soon as you brighten underexposed pixels.
This sounds very bad to me because there are many circumstances where
you want to do this, even with a perfect exposure.
That sounds very weird. Both actions are quite similar (at least withThe other thing that I tried which I found interesting was as
follows - one indoor picture, made two copies of it. Both were
slightly underexposed. The one I upped the EV's in Capture, and
there was SOME noise. The other, identical image, I did not adjust
the compensation at all, rather I fiddled with the curves - and
GUESS - there was RADICALLY less noise.
respect to noise). The only logical explanation of this would be
that Nikon has a really lousy implementation of their exposure
compensation. Have you been able to reproduce his with other
images?
I think the major problem of digital cameras might not be the saturationAs to highlights I also want to say that one of the best things I
read here recently is how can one possibly expect a camera to
retain highlights that even the eye can't see. We have lots of
contrast in South Africa. When I take a picturt of someone with a
white shirt in the bright sun, I can't even see any detail, so why
should my camera? I reviewed quite a few of my film shots the other
day and many opf those prints suffer from blown highlights. Maybe
we are asking too much and maybe the odd blown highlight is not a
bad thing.
itself, but the fact that the image saturates in such an ugly way.
Basically, it's a brick wall the sensor bounces at, whereas traditional
film reaches that limit in a smooth way. As a consequence, saturated
areas on a digital picture tend to look very artificial and distracting
--
Vtie
http://www.pbase.com/vtie