My take on D2H noise.

I don't own D2h, and I am increasingly happy that I resisted from
buying it.

One of the things I do a lot with my D100 images is selectively brighten
shadow parts. Suppose that I have a scene with a sun lit, snow covered
mountain in the distance and a forest in the shadow in the foreground.
If I take an exposure that covers the mountain correctly, the forest
will come out way too dark. The obvious solution is to take the
forest and other dark parts and selectively brighten it. With the D100,
you can do this to a reasonable extent without having too much noise.
It's a good way of cheating a little with the limited dynamic range of
a digital camera, at the expense of some noise.

Now what you are telling is that you can't do this with the D2h, because
noise pops up very fast as soon as you brighten underexposed pixels.
This sounds very bad to me because there are many circumstances where
you want to do this, even with a perfect exposure.
The other thing that I tried which I found interesting was as
follows - one indoor picture, made two copies of it. Both were
slightly underexposed. The one I upped the EV's in Capture, and
there was SOME noise. The other, identical image, I did not adjust
the compensation at all, rather I fiddled with the curves - and
GUESS - there was RADICALLY less noise.
That sounds very weird. Both actions are quite similar (at least with
respect to noise). The only logical explanation of this would be
that Nikon has a really lousy implementation of their exposure
compensation. Have you been able to reproduce his with other
images?
As to highlights I also want to say that one of the best things I
read here recently is how can one possibly expect a camera to
retain highlights that even the eye can't see. We have lots of
contrast in South Africa. When I take a picturt of someone with a
white shirt in the bright sun, I can't even see any detail, so why
should my camera? I reviewed quite a few of my film shots the other
day and many opf those prints suffer from blown highlights. Maybe
we are asking too much and maybe the odd blown highlight is not a
bad thing.
I think the major problem of digital cameras might not be the saturation
itself, but the fact that the image saturates in such an ugly way.
Basically, it's a brick wall the sensor bounces at, whereas traditional
film reaches that limit in a smooth way. As a consequence, saturated
areas on a digital picture tend to look very artificial and distracting

--
Vtie
http://www.pbase.com/vtie
 
Hi,

I suspect that Nikon did not build in NR in the way Canon have done so. I put money on it too! Canon have really mastered the noise thing and have been able to steadly improve on it.

D2H users will just have to get Noise NJ. If the exp. system is anything like the D70 then I can't imagine Over/Under exp. to be an issue.

A good flash system can be one very hand contrast tool. D70+SB800 are very impressive beast, Makes the D100+SB80 and rather lacking. I would guess the D2H would work well in this area too.
Alex
One of the things I do a lot with my D100 images is selectively
brighten
shadow parts. Suppose that I have a scene with a sun lit, snow covered
mountain in the distance and a forest in the shadow in the foreground.
If I take an exposure that covers the mountain correctly, the forest
will come out way too dark. The obvious solution is to take the
forest and other dark parts and selectively brighten it. With the
D100,
you can do this to a reasonable extent without having too much noise.
It's a good way of cheating a little with the limited dynamic range of
a digital camera, at the expense of some noise.

Now what you are telling is that you can't do this with the D2h,
because
noise pops up very fast as soon as you brighten underexposed pixels.
This sounds very bad to me because there are many circumstances where
you want to do this, even with a perfect exposure.
The other thing that I tried which I found interesting was as
follows - one indoor picture, made two copies of it. Both were
slightly underexposed. The one I upped the EV's in Capture, and
there was SOME noise. The other, identical image, I did not adjust
the compensation at all, rather I fiddled with the curves - and
GUESS - there was RADICALLY less noise.
That sounds very weird. Both actions are quite similar (at least with
respect to noise). The only logical explanation of this would be
that Nikon has a really lousy implementation of their exposure
compensation. Have you been able to reproduce his with other
images?
As to highlights I also want to say that one of the best things I
read here recently is how can one possibly expect a camera to
retain highlights that even the eye can't see. We have lots of
contrast in South Africa. When I take a picturt of someone with a
white shirt in the bright sun, I can't even see any detail, so why
should my camera? I reviewed quite a few of my film shots the other
day and many opf those prints suffer from blown highlights. Maybe
we are asking too much and maybe the odd blown highlight is not a
bad thing.
I think the major problem of digital cameras might not be the
saturation
itself, but the fact that the image saturates in such an ugly way.
Basically, it's a brick wall the sensor bounces at, whereas
traditional
film reaches that limit in a smooth way. As a consequence, saturated
areas on a digital picture tend to look very artificial and
distracting

--
Vtie
http://www.pbase.com/vtie
 
Vtie,

I really agree with this and I think thats the real problem with the noise of d2h. Even if you expose overall correctly as soon as you want to brighten up some tones you might get some noise.

And..I agree that right exposure is important AND I do think that if camera is more forgiving regarding exposure it is a BIG plus.

Even Ron (THE Ron) says it is possible to 100% nail exposure with the 2nd shot BUT not allways with the first. But sometimes there is NO second shot.

At the other side: with the AF and fast response of the d2h I am at least sure to even get the 1st shot and have it in focus.
I don't own D2h, and I am increasingly happy that I resisted from
buying it.

One of the things I do a lot with my D100 images is selectively
brighten
shadow parts. Suppose that I have a scene with a sun lit, snow covered
mountain in the distance and a forest in the shadow in the foreground.
If I take an exposure that covers the mountain correctly, the forest
will come out way too dark. The obvious solution is to take the
forest and other dark parts and selectively brighten it. With the
D100,
you can do this to a reasonable extent without having too much noise.
It's a good way of cheating a little with the limited dynamic range of
a digital camera, at the expense of some noise.

Now what you are telling is that you can't do this with the D2h,
because
noise pops up very fast as soon as you brighten underexposed pixels.
This sounds very bad to me because there are many circumstances where
you want to do this, even with a perfect exposure.
 
Hi,
I suspect that Nikon did not build in NR in the way Canon have done
so. I put money on it too! Canon have really mastered the noise
thing and have been able to steadly improve on it.
Your remark about Canon is absolutely right. This is their biggest strength.
As a result, they are using a technology that is normally believed to be
noisy (cmos) and yet produce some of the smoothest images you can
get. However, as a consequence, their images look a bit like plastic (or
silk, depending whether or not you like it)
But this is no excuse for the sensor in the D2h. The noise handling done
in the D100 is definetely not more advanced than in the D2h, and yet
it produces less noise in the shadows.
D2H users will just have to get Noise NJ. If the exp. system is
anything like the D70 then I can't imagine Over/Under exp. to be an
issue.
I'm not sure I understand this comment. What does the exposure
system have to do with this? My original point was that there are
quite a few situations where you simply can't have the ideal
exposure for all components in it (scenes with too much contrast).
In such cases, being able to brighten up part of the scene without too
much noise is a big help.
A good flash system can be one very hand contrast tool. D70+SB800
are very impressive beast, Makes the D100+SB80 and rather lacking.
I would guess the D2H would work well in this area too.
Nikon's new digital flash system is definetely a big step forward.
But this won't help you for landscapes, I don't think the SB800 is
that strong... :-)

--
Vtie
http://www.pbase.com/vtie
 
Sorry but Phil's tests just does not back up what you are saying.

"At ISO 200 the D2H exhibits similar noise levels to the Olympus E-1, higher than both the Canon EOS-1D and EOS-10D. At ISO 400 the D2H's noise level is noticeably lower than the E-1 and beginning to come into line with the EOS-1D and EOS-10D. From ISO 800 to ISO 1600 there is absolutely nothing between the D2H and EOS-1D, very similar noise levels." (page 19 of Phil's D2h review)

"Visible difference between the Canon EOS-1D Mark II and Nikon D2H are only apparent from ISO 800 upwards, and even then it's very subtle and unlikely to be enough of a difference to be noticeable in a normal shot. This is supported by the noise graph shown below, obviously what the D2H lacks is the Mark II's silky smooth ISO 100." (page 18 of Phil's MkII review)

I will tell you what I am tired of. I am tired of people who don't even own a D2h complaining about it. And I am also tired of lazy D2h owners who refuse to take the time to learn to use their equipment and then pi$$ and moan because they can't get acceptable results. Its like buying a Ferrari and then blaming the car when you get a speeding ticket or a carpenter who does bad work blaming his hammer.

I am not saying that the D2h doesn't have noise (note that I said "noise" not "noise problem") but what I am saying is that people on this site who have learned to use the camera like Yves, Regit, Ron, Shad and others don't seem to be yelling about it.

Michael
I am just so tired of all these D2Her's trying to rationalize the
fact that the D2H is simply the NOISIEST CAMERA among the
competition, and as such is far more SENSITIVE to extreme
conditions like underexposure, low lite etc. its still a good
camera in many other respects, but NOT in this category, and I dont
care how "good" a photographer you are. Thats like saying that some
great pro can somehow "avoid" the 14n's weird artifacts and
fringing. sorry, thats Kodak's fault not yours.

Now:
Yes, the D2H is still less noisy than Press 800 film, that is not
the point.
Yes, its results can still be acceptable for certain situations.
And, yes, proper exposure where you dont underexpose will give you
BETTER results.

but face facts people: even in ISO 200 in completely brite and
"perfect" conditions for noise, it is still noisier than the D100,
10d, Mark II etc etc.
The D2H has bigger "grain" to its noise, I can certainly spot it.
and this is why photogs who PREVIOUSLY had not paid so much
attention to noise are going nuts with the D2H, cuz now its a
problem with a 1/2 stop underexposure, when they're used to much
more "forgiving" DSLRS.

now, if anyone were to post image comparisons, and prove me wong, I
would love to see it: but I would truly be shocked if:
1)they could find any similar DSLR with worse noise in the same scene:
D70, D100, 10d, 1D, Mark II, 1ds etc etc. I do not remember
exactly, but on Phils noise chart the D2H may have fared the worst
across (most, if not the entire) ISO range relative to the
competition, even at 200. and:

2) that any other camera would show as MUCH SENSITIVITY to
underexposure as the D2H does. Underexposing a D2h shot is NOT THE
SAME as underexposing a D100 shot for example in terms of noise.

granted I do not use the D2H all the time, but this is "the book"
on this cam until is proven otherwise: great handling, poor noise
performance. just as the book on the 14n is: great resolution, bad
artifacting.

until someone out there can line up shots from any other similar
camera
 
Michael, I shoot daily on a newspaper and for my style of photography the differences are very obvious to me and to my colleagues. We don't have the luxury of time to shoot RAW and jpegs are just not good enough considering Nikon had two years behind Canon to improve itself.

Yes unlike Yves, etc, etc, who do produce wonderful results, I don't shoot like they do. A lot of my shots are often rushed and lighting is something I barely have control over. Job to job to job is my day. If you're prepared to base all your judgement on website tests (that do have their weaknesses) and pretty images made by forum members, then that is up to you.

I'm not having a winge....cause if I was I would've sold the gear and gone back to Canon. I am mostly happy with the Nikon, and just wanting to shed some light on this camera that many people are calling faultless, or close to it. The image deficiencys do exist and Nikon needs to lift their game- that's my point.

I see so many people on forums buying a D2H shooting an image of a flower and saying, "oh it's so wonderful. The focus speed made a huge difference over my old D100 for this shot". All too common I'm afraid- like what I say, or leave it. I'm just trying to help, but if people want to say I'm wrong I'll keep fighting to ensure my point is taken and not brushed under the carpet, cause these are issues not only Nikon needs to know about, but potential buyers.

My last point...a great camera- overall a better camera than the EOS 1D as long as you shoot RAW and nail exposure and manual (not auto/pre-set) white balance. Not a perfect camera, but what is.
"At ISO 200 the D2H exhibits similar noise levels to the Olympus
E-1, higher than both the Canon EOS-1D and EOS-10D. At ISO 400 the
D2H's noise level is noticeably lower than the E-1 and beginning to
come into line with the EOS-1D and EOS-10D. From ISO 800 to ISO
1600 there is absolutely nothing between the D2H and EOS-1D, very
similar noise levels." (page 19 of Phil's D2h review)

"Visible difference between the Canon EOS-1D Mark II and Nikon D2H
are only apparent from ISO 800 upwards, and even then it's very
subtle and unlikely to be enough of a difference to be noticeable
in a normal shot. This is supported by the noise graph shown below,
obviously what the D2H lacks is the Mark II's silky smooth ISO
100." (page 18 of Phil's MkII review)

I will tell you what I am tired of. I am tired of people who don't
even own a D2h complaining about it. And I am also tired of lazy
D2h owners who refuse to take the time to learn to use their
equipment and then pi$$ and moan because they can't get acceptable
results. Its like buying a Ferrari and then blaming the car when
you get a speeding ticket or a carpenter who does bad work blaming
his hammer.

I am not saying that the D2h doesn't have noise (note that I said
"noise" not "noise problem") but what I am saying is that people on
this site who have learned to use the camera like Yves, Regit, Ron,
Shad and others don't seem to be yelling about it.

Michael
I am just so tired of all these D2Her's trying to rationalize the
fact that the D2H is simply the NOISIEST CAMERA among the
competition, and as such is far more SENSITIVE to extreme
conditions like underexposure, low lite etc. its still a good
camera in many other respects, but NOT in this category, and I dont
care how "good" a photographer you are. Thats like saying that some
great pro can somehow "avoid" the 14n's weird artifacts and
fringing. sorry, thats Kodak's fault not yours.

Now:
Yes, the D2H is still less noisy than Press 800 film, that is not
the point.
Yes, its results can still be acceptable for certain situations.
And, yes, proper exposure where you dont underexpose will give you
BETTER results.

but face facts people: even in ISO 200 in completely brite and
"perfect" conditions for noise, it is still noisier than the D100,
10d, Mark II etc etc.
The D2H has bigger "grain" to its noise, I can certainly spot it.
and this is why photogs who PREVIOUSLY had not paid so much
attention to noise are going nuts with the D2H, cuz now its a
problem with a 1/2 stop underexposure, when they're used to much
more "forgiving" DSLRS.

now, if anyone were to post image comparisons, and prove me wong, I
would love to see it: but I would truly be shocked if:
1)they could find any similar DSLR with worse noise in the same scene:
D70, D100, 10d, 1D, Mark II, 1ds etc etc. I do not remember
exactly, but on Phils noise chart the D2H may have fared the worst
across (most, if not the entire) ISO range relative to the
competition, even at 200. and:

2) that any other camera would show as MUCH SENSITIVITY to
underexposure as the D2H does. Underexposing a D2h shot is NOT THE
SAME as underexposing a D100 shot for example in terms of noise.

granted I do not use the D2H all the time, but this is "the book"
on this cam until is proven otherwise: great handling, poor noise
performance. just as the book on the 14n is: great resolution, bad
artifacting.

until someone out there can line up shots from any other similar
camera
 
Don't get me wrong, the D2H isn't too far off the D100 and when shooting landscapes, ISO 200 would be fine, therfor noise isn't really a problem and the dynamic range should be able to cater for such a scene you described.
One of the things I do a lot with my D100 images is selectively
brighten
shadow parts. Suppose that I have a scene with a sun lit, snow covered
mountain in the distance and a forest in the shadow in the foreground.
If I take an exposure that covers the mountain correctly, the forest
will come out way too dark. The obvious solution is to take the
forest and other dark parts and selectively brighten it. With the
D100,
you can do this to a reasonable extent without having too much noise.
It's a good way of cheating a little with the limited dynamic range of
a digital camera, at the expense of some noise.

Now what you are telling is that you can't do this with the D2h,
because
noise pops up very fast as soon as you brighten underexposed pixels.
This sounds very bad to me because there are many circumstances where
you want to do this, even with a perfect exposure.
The other thing that I tried which I found interesting was as
follows - one indoor picture, made two copies of it. Both were
slightly underexposed. The one I upped the EV's in Capture, and
there was SOME noise. The other, identical image, I did not adjust
the compensation at all, rather I fiddled with the curves - and
GUESS - there was RADICALLY less noise.
That sounds very weird. Both actions are quite similar (at least with
respect to noise). The only logical explanation of this would be
that Nikon has a really lousy implementation of their exposure
compensation. Have you been able to reproduce his with other
images?
As to highlights I also want to say that one of the best things I
read here recently is how can one possibly expect a camera to
retain highlights that even the eye can't see. We have lots of
contrast in South Africa. When I take a picturt of someone with a
white shirt in the bright sun, I can't even see any detail, so why
should my camera? I reviewed quite a few of my film shots the other
day and many opf those prints suffer from blown highlights. Maybe
we are asking too much and maybe the odd blown highlight is not a
bad thing.
I think the major problem of digital cameras might not be the
saturation
itself, but the fact that the image saturates in such an ugly way.
Basically, it's a brick wall the sensor bounces at, whereas
traditional
film reaches that limit in a smooth way. As a consequence, saturated
areas on a digital picture tend to look very artificial and
distracting

--
Vtie
http://www.pbase.com/vtie
 
Yes and everyone keeps focusing on the noise, but I believe blown out highlights and colour balance/tone are bigger issues.
And..I agree that right exposure is important AND I do think that
if camera is more forgiving regarding exposure it is a BIG plus.
Even Ron (THE Ron) says it is possible to 100% nail exposure with
the 2nd shot BUT not allways with the first. But sometimes there is
NO second shot.

At the other side: with the AF and fast response of the d2h I am at
least sure to even get the 1st shot and have it in focus.
I don't own D2h, and I am increasingly happy that I resisted from
buying it.

One of the things I do a lot with my D100 images is selectively
brighten
shadow parts. Suppose that I have a scene with a sun lit, snow covered
mountain in the distance and a forest in the shadow in the foreground.
If I take an exposure that covers the mountain correctly, the forest
will come out way too dark. The obvious solution is to take the
forest and other dark parts and selectively brighten it. With the
D100,
you can do this to a reasonable extent without having too much noise.
It's a good way of cheating a little with the limited dynamic range of
a digital camera, at the expense of some noise.

Now what you are telling is that you can't do this with the D2h,
because
noise pops up very fast as soon as you brighten underexposed pixels.
This sounds very bad to me because there are many circumstances where
you want to do this, even with a perfect exposure.
 
I'm not going to post crops mainly because I'm not a measurabator, and I don't have a place to post them other than my website which is not geared up for that sort of thing.

But what I have done is very easily replicated.

And, as a pro phot, I'm very critical about cameras. I stand by my views entirely. Used properly , its a great camera.

I also hardly think that a big company like Nikon would risk losing it's rep by launching their flagship top of range new camera if it was as deficient as some would have us believe.

--
Peter Bendheim
http://www.imagessouthafrica.co.za
 
I said that you should use curves to brighten your image rather than exposure compensation to get better lower noise results.

I would imagine that would apply to the D100 as well.

BTW, I owned a D100 until last week and i think that the exposure control, out the camera colour, etc and resolution is better to my eye, and I haven't seen any appreciable difference in noise levels.

Peter
 
Peter,

Agreed. I had a headstart on you and came to the same conclusion months ago. The D2H is a great camera, don't underexpose your high ISO shots and you'll be fine. At 200 ISO, no noise problems. The higher the ISO, the more critical it is for you to nail the exposure. At 1600+, you must keep data off the left side of your histogram. Set exposure comp +something in the camera, use spot metering in high contrast situations, or simply bracket your shots and throw out the 2 dark ones, whatever method works for you. Make your errors towards over exposure. Virtually every example posted here of D2H noise is underexposed one stop or more. Tips on settings (tone comp, etc) help alot but understanding exposure is the key to high ISO satisfaction with this camera.

The D2H is a powerful and flexible tool. Nikon offers various models, if you want a point-n-shoot camera, or one with an automatic flash built-in, this simply isn't it. RTM and learn to use the camera at high ISOs before you go to shoot that important event in low light.

Cheers,
JB

Peter Bendheim wrote:
...
Personally I don't think that there is a noise problem with the
camera, rather I think people are not exposing correctly or
undertanding light, or living with the natural Nikon tendency to
underexpose slightly to avoid blowing out the highlights.
...
I believe that Nikon have produced a brilliant camera in the D2H,
streets ahead of any of their other digital offerings, ever. But
you must take the time to understand how best to work with it.
--
Peter Bendheim
http://www.imagessouthafrica.co.za
--
----
JB
 
I said that you should use curves to brighten your image rather
than exposure compensation to get better lower noise results.
And this sounds so weird. Basically, the only thing that could explain
this is that Nikon screwed up the exposure compensation in their
software. If curves are able to brighten a portion of an image without
introducing too much noise, then exposure compensation should be
able to do the same.

--
Vtie
http://www.pbase.com/vtie
 
You are correct. The D2h is not the perfect camera and while I don't shoot PJ anymore I do shoot indoor events, like gymnastics and cheerleading, in locations where I too have zero control over the lighting. I have to "play the hand I am dealt" and most of the time it stinks. I have shot over 100K frames under these conditions with a 1D too. Guess what? To get the correct exposure on the 1D I have to manually set WB, shutter and aperture just like I do on the D2h. And if I underexpose the 1D guess what I get? Noise. Just like the D2h.

Sorry but "I don't have the luxury of shooting RAW" doesn't hold water with me because neither do I. Whether I am shooting a 1D, D1x or D2h I have to get the settings right to begin with. I shoot several thousand shot a day I don't have the time to convert RAW so I have to shoot jpg. My D2h jpgs are just as good as my1D jpgs and I don't want to turn this into a Canon vs Nikon discussion.

Back to my original point. Know your equipment and how to set it. Don't blame your equipment if you miss the settings when you shoot under less than ideal conditions. Sure people need to be aware of the D2h's shortcomings just as with any other camera but as JB points out below if you are looking for a P&S camera with a pop up flash that you can set and forget then you definately need to look somewere else. However if you are looking for tool that has the ability to be customized to handly most any situations and you are willing to take the time to learn how to do it then the D2h is your tool.
Michael, I shoot daily on a newspaper and for my style of
photography the differences are very obvious to me and to my
colleagues. We don't have the luxury of time to shoot RAW and jpegs
are just not good enough considering Nikon had two years behind
Canon to improve itself.

Yes unlike Yves, etc, etc, who do produce wonderful results, I
don't shoot like they do. A lot of my shots are often rushed and
lighting is something I barely have control over. Job to job to job
is my day. If you're prepared to base all your judgement on website
tests (that do have their weaknesses) and pretty images made by
forum members, then that is up to you.

I'm not having a winge....cause if I was I would've sold the gear
and gone back to Canon. I am mostly happy with the Nikon, and just
wanting to shed some light on this camera that many people are
calling faultless, or close to it. The image deficiencys do exist
and Nikon needs to lift their game- that's my point.

I see so many people on forums buying a D2H shooting an image of a
flower and saying, "oh it's so wonderful. The focus speed made a
huge difference over my old D100 for this shot". All too common I'm
afraid- like what I say, or leave it. I'm just trying to help, but
if people want to say I'm wrong I'll keep fighting to ensure my
point is taken and not brushed under the carpet, cause these are
issues not only Nikon needs to know about, but potential buyers.

My last point...a great camera- overall a better camera than the
EOS 1D as long as you shoot RAW and nail exposure and manual (not
auto/pre-set) white balance. Not a perfect camera, but what is.
 
Sorry but Phil's tests just does not back up what you are saying.

"At ISO 200 the D2H exhibits similar noise levels to the Olympus
E-1, higher than both the Canon EOS-1D and EOS-10D. At ISO 400 the
D2H's noise level is noticeably lower than the E-1 and beginning to
come into line with the EOS-1D and EOS-10D. From ISO 800 to ISO
1600 there is absolutely nothing between the D2H and EOS-1D, very
similar noise levels." (page 19 of Phil's D2h review)
I don't own an Olympus E1, but I am not sure its a good comparison with the D2h as it has a slightly smaller sensor area and 1 million more pixels on that sensor.
 
That's what I mean. Overall dark setting with very bright stage lights or spots. Extremely difficult to expose for, so blown highlights should be the least of our worries.
I can think of a real good case where you have to use High ISO and
still have the possiblity of blown highlights--- Indoor Rock
Concerts, Jazz festivals, Theater productions.

I shoot these things with the D2h every weekend.
--
Pat

http://www.iceshots.smugmug.com
 
I'm no expert at measurabating - I just take photographs, but with
my new D2H having arrived a few days ago and on holiday soon, I've
been spending a lot of time poring over the manuals and
experimenting with the camera and trying to get a feel for the
exposure system.

Every camera is a bit diffrent and it normally takes me a week or
two before I really feel comfortable with each one's
idiosyncrasies. When I first got the D100, having migrated from an
S2Pro, I was inititially a bit disappointed, but after a while I
really mastered it to the point that I got outstanding exposures
every time. But now, it's sold.

One of the things I've been doing with the D2H is taking the same
shot, bracketed 5 times from -.7EV to +.7EV, setting the motor
drive at 5 shots per second. I've then been reviewing and analysing
the histogram with each picture.

Set on ISO1600 which I will only rarely use, I've found the
following. If I'v got the exposure right ( which means that there
is a fair amount of the data to the right hand side of the
histogram, just before the highlights get blown) the images are
silky smooth and amazingly virtually noise-free.

To the left and you are in trouble. Once I get into Capture and
bring the exposure compensation down to the right point (from left
to right, to 0 or nearby), the image looks just perfect. However,
if you are in Capture and you find you have to move the
compensation slider from right to left to ad EV's then you get
noise that increases.

So get the exposure right as per the method above, and you will
have silky smooth images.

The other thing that I tried which I found interesting was as
follows - one indoor picture, made two copies of it. Both were
slightly underexposed. The one I upped the EV's in Capture, and
there was SOME noise. The other, identical image, I did not adjust
the compensation at all, rather I fiddled with the curves - and
GUESS - there was RADICALLY less noise.

You can try these things for yourself.

Personally I don't think that there is a noise problem with the
camera, rather I think people are not exposing correctly or
undertanding light, or living with the natural Nikon tendency to
underexpose slightly to avoid blowing out the highlights.

As to highlights I also want to say that one of the best things I
read here recently is how can one possibly expect a camera to
retain highlights that even the eye can't see. We have lots of
contrast in South Africa. When I take a picturt of someone with a
white shirt in the bright sun, I can't even see any detail, so why
should my camera? I reviewed quite a few of my film shots the other
day and many opf those prints suffer from blown highlights. Maybe
we are asking too much and maybe the odd blown highlight is not a
bad thing.

To repeat, I think that the exposures have to be mastered properly.
The D2H is not any old point and shoot and one needs to work on
understanding it. In the right hands it produces very acceptable
images at higher ISO's in terms of noise. The final pictures,
especially at lower ISO's seem to have a mixture of the silkiness
of Canon and the photographic texture of Nikon. Must be the LBCAST
sensor.

I believe that Nikon have produced a brilliant camera in the D2H,
streets ahead of any of their other digital offerings, ever. But
you must take the time to understand how best to work with it.
--
Peter Bendheim
http://www.imagessouthafrica.co.za
Thank for your post Peter I have my D2H since 2 months now and I completely agree with you..I think however taht a courese on how to use every setting of this camera is a must to achieve perfection otherwise it will take you a lot, lot more time to get these results...when you just go into the auto focus possibilities the manual cannot explain clearly many points.
Hpping to get Thom's Hogan book soon.

http://www.trekearth.com/gallery/Africa/Mauritius/photo75270.htm

--
ch
 

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