Cannot post that many pics yet, but can give detailed instructions of the process.
First, unscrew every screw there is to un-screw.
All but the 4 screws on the metal mount, which does NOT hold the body in it's place. You will need to remove the neck-strap from the frame, before you can remove the body. First thing that will come off is the rear panel. The last (hidden) screw is behind a circular plastic cap, above the arrows, which you rem with a needle. Whe the back has come off, it will be connected to the body with a flat ribbon cable, which you have to un-plug on the main-board, by lifting the cable-lock. De assemble the back further, and keep only 1 back panel and 1 cf-door, all plain plastic body parts, removed of all knobs and screws. Also remove the "glas" which protects lcd's by pressing it firmly and evenly from the inside out. Next, you need to remove the front body part. This can only be tone, when you have remove a single screw, below the cf-compartment, which holds a plastic cover. You can pul this cover out, which will then reveal 2 holes from where you can remove 2 hidden screws which go back into the grip. I presume you have removed both the battery and the CR2032. You can now remove the front panel from the frame. You will need to jack the bottom with a flat-head screwdriver, to have it come of from the tripod mount. You then have to remove the red ir-glass and the clear red-eye lamp cover from the front of the body. The grip is very tricky. When you have removed the 4 locks keeping it to the body, it is still glued to the body. I broke the locks, then cut away the glue. WARNING: With the front and back panels removed, the left side of the frame reveals a CAP, the flash capacitor. IT IS CHARGED and WILL shock you if you touch any of the tips it is soldered on, while simultaneously holding the frame (ground), with 300V shock. I was warned about this. I fogot about it until it was to late. I still have a mark on my finger !! Now, I asume you have removed all screws you can see that removes the body. Even the diopter screw and 3 screws on the flash need to be removed. But to remove the top body part, you will need to desolder 2 thin blue wires, 1 thin red and wone thin white wire, which comes from the flash unlock mechanism. Make a schematic or take a picture, so you know for sure where to re-solder it later. You also need to Desolder wires coming from the (charged) flash cap, those are 2 thick wires and 2 thinner wires, which come from the flash head itself. When you have desoldered these 8 wires, the top will come off, revealing another headache. You can unscrew the flash itself from the top body and remove it, now that the wires are desoldered. You may have to remove some black glue, which keeps these wires into place. Enscrew the metal plate below the exposure dial and on/off switch. Remember in which position it was prior to deassembling. When this plate is removed, you will find a scre which holds the dile on the body. Remove it, and observe the coper leads and their position. You must also remove the flash release mechanism. Unscrew all you can unscrew and save the 2 pins sticking out of the body. One is black, the other is white. The hot-shoe is tricky. You can only remove the ground plate, by pulling back on the back plate on top of the shoe. This will reveal 4 screws, which release some stuff from the hotshoe. The 5 pins cannot be removed and must me taped down with masking tape. Also meaning, the parts below the hotshoe, including the release mechanism cannot be removed. You need to tape it down before painting. De-assemble the flash-head and remove the flash itself and cables from all plastic. In the end you will have plain plastic body parts. 1 CF-door, back, front, top and 2 flash body pieces. Sand the really good, because the silver rebel pains DOES come off easily. Sand it donw to the bare plastic itself. The aply a thin layer of plastic primer. After drying, aply your color coat and your finishing coating. I hope you have it done by a pro airbrusher. Let all dry for 48 hours in hot dry weather for best results. The re-assemble in reverse order. Did you read als this ? Did you understand it ? Let me know. Pictures will follow soon. Thanks for your questions and comments. ! (p.s. when I was done, there remaind about 10 screws, gnag, gnag, gnag
Can you post dessasembling instructions?
Where to start and what parts did you took apart. Also, which was
the most challenging part and any tips you can think of.
Your job looks great!
I plan to paint mine (haven't decided on the color yet), and I was
searching for breaking it apart instruction.
Any help will be much appreciated.
ZoomBoy
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