the other comment that you can just convert them from Adobe to sRGB doesn't tell the whole tale. there have been many recent posts on sRGB color spaces so I suggest you do some searches on this topic. You -can- convert an image from Adobe to sRGB color space, but when you do, the sRGB color spcae may not contain the exact color that the Adobe color space used so it will pick the most likely color to use and that may result in a less-than-correct final image. The 256 shades per channel are not the same.
If your image contains bright greens or other colors that are not well suited to sRGB then it is good to shoot in Adobe if you have to shoot jpg and forego RAW if your final output is going to be in color space that can handle the Adobe gamut like a modern desktop printer. But if your output is going to be a device that can't output colors as wide as the Adobe colors you may get some color shift.
Most skin tones, for instance, fall well within the sRGB gamut. Think of two sets of Crayons. In one set you have 256 shades of each of red blue green and they are all fairly close in terms of color. Not a lot of variation so you can't draw real bright colors, but since the shades are close to each other, you can draw very accurately within those shades. That's sRGB. The other box of crayons have brighter colors so when you need to draw things with bright colors, particularly green, you have more crayons in that color range so you can draw those colors, but since the 256 shades are spread over a wider range of colors, you can't fine-tune some shading as well as when you use Adobe as you can when you use sRGB. One isn't better than the other. It depends on what your subject is. And then to top it all off, the Adobe don't necessarily show up correctly on the web or even on your monitor so your preview isn't always perfect and then to add insult to injury, shooting Adobe may be a waste if your printer can't handle it.
It's really quite a mess. Luckily most people are blissfully ignorant.
In general it's always best to shoot RAW, but if you can't, then it's important (if you're picky) to know what your output device is going to be. If you are shooting for the web, just use sRGB. If your printer is an sRGB device use it. If you are doing portraits, sRGB is probably just fine unless the clothing or backdrops use colors outside sRGB. If you are shooting colors outside the sRGB gamut (bright green foliage or other non sRGB colors) and you know your printer can handle Adobe color (many printers today can do so) then it's best to shoot in Adobe.
If you have no clue what your printer can handle, there is no "safest" route in truth but if you are using a commercial printer the money is on sRGB I think and I'd stick with that until I knew better. With a modern high quaity home printer like the Epson 2200, you can shoot in either sRGB or Adobe depending on your image.
You'll notice that Rick is shooting some pretty bright colors and recommending Adobe. No suprise. He recommends "convert at the last step" if I worded it correctly but you really don't want to convert from Adobe to sRGB if you are using an 8 bit image, if you can prevent it. You have to redraw the picture using different colors and the colors may or may not match well. If you are concerning yourself with color gamuts then your goal is to shoot with the gamut you will print with.
Shooting RAW avoids all this nonsense in terms of your shooting and allows you to convert to 8 bit adobe or srgb as you choose.
The dry creek resource is great. I'll admit that all this gets confusing for me too and the best I can say is this is my understanding, however inadequate it may be.
If you are unsure of your printers gamut my suggestion is to do some simple tests by shooting a variety of pictures in sRGB and the same or similar in Adobe RGB and print them to see which your printer seems to print best.
All of this becomes somewhat moot if your monitor is not fairly well calibrated because without a reasonably well calibrated monitor your output won't look like the image you see on the screen anyway.
Color management is a total pain in the rear when you are really looking to reproduce an image accurately.
However I have difficulties to find out the workflow with colors.
In ps, my images look great, outside ps less. I shoot at adobe RGB
all the time, because I thougt this was the most wide colorrange,
but when I see the samples of Phil in his review, the are all shot
with sRGB.
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Canon OneDeeMarque2,TenDee, 70-2hundred 2.8IS, 16-thirty5, 1hundred
-300 5.6EL, 28-70 f3.5- something, 50m f1point4, 1.4X convrtr, tc80EN3
