Amber Waves of Grain (IMGS)

Have you tried cutting the filter and dropping it in the rear slot
yet?
The slot in the back looks SUPER thin, I thought it required a special type of filter? Also, on the Split ND, you would not be able to move it up and down to get it in the right spot (the Split ND Cokin is very tall, so lots of room for adjustment).
Thanks for the info on the filter and action, very nice effect.
Are you using the ND on the front? Not dropped into the rear filte
slot? What do you use to hold the filter in the front if that is
the way you are doing it? Using the lense cap filter threads seems
to take away some light from the corners at the 15mm end.
Thanks and again very nice deep pictures.
Oh what is the dv pro action? link? =)
I am holding the Filter (Cokin P Series) in front of the lens (only
dropped it a bunch of times so far :) It's pretty hard on the
filter (the way I do it) as I am constantly dragging it up and down
the front (oh, and dropping it :)
It causes no Vignetting, and I am for the most part able to keep my
big fat fingers out of the way.

The DV Pro action is the Fred Miranda Version (not free) but I have
recently seen a ton of links for all kinds of free actions (I think
a search on Velvia would do it). Most of these pictures are Level
1 through 4 out of like 12, so you can REALLY make the colors pop,
so the Miranda actions are certainly worth the $$.
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
--
Everything looks better when you turn your head and squint.
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
 
Didn't think about the positioning. Sounds like a new product development time o make a bracket that will attach to the lense and hold the filter for you =)
Have you tried cutting the filter and dropping it in the rear slot
yet?
The slot in the back looks SUPER thin, I thought it required a
special type of filter? Also, on the Split ND, you would not be
able to move it up and down to get it in the right spot (the Split
ND Cokin is very tall, so lots of room for adjustment).
Thanks for the info on the filter and action, very nice effect.
Are you using the ND on the front? Not dropped into the rear filte
slot? What do you use to hold the filter in the front if that is
the way you are doing it? Using the lense cap filter threads seems
to take away some light from the corners at the 15mm end.
Thanks and again very nice deep pictures.
Oh what is the dv pro action? link? =)
I am holding the Filter (Cokin P Series) in front of the lens (only
dropped it a bunch of times so far :) It's pretty hard on the
filter (the way I do it) as I am constantly dragging it up and down
the front (oh, and dropping it :)
It causes no Vignetting, and I am for the most part able to keep my
big fat fingers out of the way.

The DV Pro action is the Fred Miranda Version (not free) but I have
recently seen a ton of links for all kinds of free actions (I think
a search on Velvia would do it). Most of these pictures are Level
1 through 4 out of like 12, so you can REALLY make the colors pop,
so the Miranda actions are certainly worth the $$.
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
--
Everything looks better when you turn your head and squint.
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
--
Everything looks better when you turn your head and squint.
 
Didn't think about the positioning. Sounds like a new product
development time o make a bracket that will attach to the lense and
hold the filter for you =)
If you can come up with something, I'll take 2!!!! I been racking my brain trying to come up with something, but nothing really sounds convenient.

Also, I read that proper way to use the Grad ND is to lock the exposure without the filter, line the filter up and take the picture. I have been trying it, and it seems to work MUCH better than always having the filter on, but it is one more kink in trying to find a way to fix the filter on the end).
Have you tried cutting the filter and dropping it in the rear slot
yet?
The slot in the back looks SUPER thin, I thought it required a
special type of filter? Also, on the Split ND, you would not be
able to move it up and down to get it in the right spot (the Split
ND Cokin is very tall, so lots of room for adjustment).
Thanks for the info on the filter and action, very nice effect.
Are you using the ND on the front? Not dropped into the rear filte
slot? What do you use to hold the filter in the front if that is
the way you are doing it? Using the lense cap filter threads seems
to take away some light from the corners at the 15mm end.
Thanks and again very nice deep pictures.
Oh what is the dv pro action? link? =)
I am holding the Filter (Cokin P Series) in front of the lens (only
dropped it a bunch of times so far :) It's pretty hard on the
filter (the way I do it) as I am constantly dragging it up and down
the front (oh, and dropping it :)
It causes no Vignetting, and I am for the most part able to keep my
big fat fingers out of the way.

The DV Pro action is the Fred Miranda Version (not free) but I have
recently seen a ton of links for all kinds of free actions (I think
a search on Velvia would do it). Most of these pictures are Level
1 through 4 out of like 12, so you can REALLY make the colors pop,
so the Miranda actions are certainly worth the $$.
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
--
Everything looks better when you turn your head and squint.
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
--
Everything looks better when you turn your head and squint.
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
 
They make all kinds of weird filters, but not an ND6 ...
I am hard to please! I suppose I could try a 2 and a 4, but I am not that coordinated (to hold them in front of the lens), and I seem to get a stange brown tint with stacked Cokin ND's.
Anyway, thanks for the link, I had no idea they had so many!
http://www.cokin.fr/ico3-p6-8.html
..... I meant to get an ND2, but got an ND8 by
mistake. I was surprised to see the 8 be almost perfect. Might be
worth having a 4 in tbe bag too (a 6 might be just what the doctor
ordered, if they make such a thing).
--
Roger

... the dogs bark, but the caravan passes ...
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
 
Congratulations! They look so surreal! That is why I love them!

Viktor
 
will see what happens, not much normally =)

I was wondering about the dv pro act, and from your pictures it was the little push I needed to spend a few $$ and get them, now I have to play aroun and and see what works best. Any suggestions?
Didn't think about the positioning. Sounds like a new product
development time o make a bracket that will attach to the lense and
hold the filter for you =)
If you can come up with something, I'll take 2!!!! I been racking
my brain trying to come up with something, but nothing really
sounds convenient.
Also, I read that proper way to use the Grad ND is to lock the
exposure without the filter, line the filter up and take the
picture. I have been trying it, and it seems to work MUCH better
than always having the filter on, but it is one more kink in trying
to find a way to fix the filter on the end).
Have you tried cutting the filter and dropping it in the rear slot
yet?
The slot in the back looks SUPER thin, I thought it required a
special type of filter? Also, on the Split ND, you would not be
able to move it up and down to get it in the right spot (the Split
ND Cokin is very tall, so lots of room for adjustment).
Thanks for the info on the filter and action, very nice effect.
Are you using the ND on the front? Not dropped into the rear filte
slot? What do you use to hold the filter in the front if that is
the way you are doing it? Using the lense cap filter threads seems
to take away some light from the corners at the 15mm end.
Thanks and again very nice deep pictures.
Oh what is the dv pro action? link? =)
I am holding the Filter (Cokin P Series) in front of the lens (only
dropped it a bunch of times so far :) It's pretty hard on the
filter (the way I do it) as I am constantly dragging it up and down
the front (oh, and dropping it :)
It causes no Vignetting, and I am for the most part able to keep my
big fat fingers out of the way.

The DV Pro action is the Fred Miranda Version (not free) but I have
recently seen a ton of links for all kinds of free actions (I think
a search on Velvia would do it). Most of these pictures are Level
1 through 4 out of like 12, so you can REALLY make the colors pop,
so the Miranda actions are certainly worth the $$.
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
--
Everything looks better when you turn your head and squint.
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
--
Everything looks better when you turn your head and squint.
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
--
Everything looks better when you turn your head and squint.
 
...the neutral density graduated filter is a film tool. With a
digital camera you are better off shooting two shots with different
exposures and digitally blending them.
That is a great technique, IF you have a tripod, and a non moving subject.

These shots were taken handheld, so I would not have been able to 100% line them up again. Also, the wind was really howling, so the grass/trees were moving, this would have caused strange effects. For the cost of a $12 filter, I can get the shot out of the camera the 1st time (in one shot), without having to bracket, then combine in PS.
Here's a tutorial:
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/digital-blending.shtml
I love them! The one with the skull is especially good..

I'm going out and getting myself a cokin nd filter asap :P

Thanks :)
--
mrbernie - nikon d100
http://www.zhytek.com.au/gallery/
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
 
will see what happens, not much normally =)
That's why I traded my thinking cap off for a sleeping cap :)
I was wondering about the dv pro act, and from your pictures it was
the little push I needed to spend a few $$ and get them, now I have
to play aroun and and see what works best. Any suggestions?
I have never tried any of the other plugins/actions. I used to use just Hue/Saturation, and obviously the DV Actions work MUCH better than that.

I REALLY like the FM DV Pro action. It has 12 levels of saturation, and 99% of the time I only use 1-4. It also has 12 levels of desaturation, which I have never used, but might come in handy some day.

I remember a post a week or so ago (who knows, time gets away from me) where there was a link to and large discussion on Velevia effects and plugins, probably worth trying out the free ones and seeing if they are any good.
Didn't think about the positioning. Sounds like a new product
development time o make a bracket that will attach to the lense and
hold the filter for you =)
If you can come up with something, I'll take 2!!!! I been racking
my brain trying to come up with something, but nothing really
sounds convenient.
Also, I read that proper way to use the Grad ND is to lock the
exposure without the filter, line the filter up and take the
picture. I have been trying it, and it seems to work MUCH better
than always having the filter on, but it is one more kink in trying
to find a way to fix the filter on the end).
Have you tried cutting the filter and dropping it in the rear slot
yet?
The slot in the back looks SUPER thin, I thought it required a
special type of filter? Also, on the Split ND, you would not be
able to move it up and down to get it in the right spot (the Split
ND Cokin is very tall, so lots of room for adjustment).
Thanks for the info on the filter and action, very nice effect.
Are you using the ND on the front? Not dropped into the rear filte
slot? What do you use to hold the filter in the front if that is
the way you are doing it? Using the lense cap filter threads seems
to take away some light from the corners at the 15mm end.
Thanks and again very nice deep pictures.
Oh what is the dv pro action? link? =)
I am holding the Filter (Cokin P Series) in front of the lens (only
dropped it a bunch of times so far :) It's pretty hard on the
filter (the way I do it) as I am constantly dragging it up and down
the front (oh, and dropping it :)
It causes no Vignetting, and I am for the most part able to keep my
big fat fingers out of the way.

The DV Pro action is the Fred Miranda Version (not free) but I have
recently seen a ton of links for all kinds of free actions (I think
a search on Velvia would do it). Most of these pictures are Level
1 through 4 out of like 12, so you can REALLY make the colors pop,
so the Miranda actions are certainly worth the $$.
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
--
Everything looks better when you turn your head and squint.
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
--
Everything looks better when you turn your head and squint.
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
--
Everything looks better when you turn your head and squint.
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
 
Man, I need to learn to read.
It looks like you already have the Action.

You will not be disappointed. I duplicate the BG Layer, then run the action at level 2, then 1 etc... until I like it (well, until I go too far, then I delete the layer and start over, couting the second time :)
will see what happens, not much normally =)
That's why I traded my thinking cap off for a sleeping cap :)
I was wondering about the dv pro act, and from your pictures it was
the little push I needed to spend a few $$ and get them, now I have
to play aroun and and see what works best. Any suggestions?
I have never tried any of the other plugins/actions. I used to use
just Hue/Saturation, and obviously the DV Actions work MUCH better
than that.
I REALLY like the FM DV Pro action. It has 12 levels of
saturation, and 99% of the time I only use 1-4. It also has 12
levels of desaturation, which I have never used, but might come in
handy some day.
I remember a post a week or so ago (who knows, time gets away from
me) where there was a link to and large discussion on Velevia
effects and plugins, probably worth trying out the free ones and
seeing if they are any good.
Didn't think about the positioning. Sounds like a new product
development time o make a bracket that will attach to the lense and
hold the filter for you =)
If you can come up with something, I'll take 2!!!! I been racking
my brain trying to come up with something, but nothing really
sounds convenient.
Also, I read that proper way to use the Grad ND is to lock the
exposure without the filter, line the filter up and take the
picture. I have been trying it, and it seems to work MUCH better
than always having the filter on, but it is one more kink in trying
to find a way to fix the filter on the end).
Have you tried cutting the filter and dropping it in the rear slot
yet?
The slot in the back looks SUPER thin, I thought it required a
special type of filter? Also, on the Split ND, you would not be
able to move it up and down to get it in the right spot (the Split
ND Cokin is very tall, so lots of room for adjustment).
Thanks for the info on the filter and action, very nice effect.
Are you using the ND on the front? Not dropped into the rear filte
slot? What do you use to hold the filter in the front if that is
the way you are doing it? Using the lense cap filter threads seems
to take away some light from the corners at the 15mm end.
Thanks and again very nice deep pictures.
Oh what is the dv pro action? link? =)
I am holding the Filter (Cokin P Series) in front of the lens (only
dropped it a bunch of times so far :) It's pretty hard on the
filter (the way I do it) as I am constantly dragging it up and down
the front (oh, and dropping it :)
It causes no Vignetting, and I am for the most part able to keep my
big fat fingers out of the way.

The DV Pro action is the Fred Miranda Version (not free) but I have
recently seen a ton of links for all kinds of free actions (I think
a search on Velvia would do it). Most of these pictures are Level
1 through 4 out of like 12, so you can REALLY make the colors pop,
so the Miranda actions are certainly worth the $$.
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
--
Everything looks better when you turn your head and squint.
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
--
Everything looks better when you turn your head and squint.
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
--
Everything looks better when you turn your head and squint.
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
 
will see what happens, not much normally =)
I was wondering about the dv pro act, and from your pictures it was
the little push I needed to spend a few $$ and get them, now I have
to play aroun and and see what works best. Any suggestions?
One more DV Picture that I did not get posted the 1st time. The sunset was VERY weak for Kansas, but the DV really helped this picture out.


Didn't think about the positioning. Sounds like a new product
development time o make a bracket that will attach to the lense and
hold the filter for you =)
If you can come up with something, I'll take 2!!!! I been racking
my brain trying to come up with something, but nothing really
sounds convenient.
Also, I read that proper way to use the Grad ND is to lock the
exposure without the filter, line the filter up and take the
picture. I have been trying it, and it seems to work MUCH better
than always having the filter on, but it is one more kink in trying
to find a way to fix the filter on the end).
Have you tried cutting the filter and dropping it in the rear slot
yet?
The slot in the back looks SUPER thin, I thought it required a
special type of filter? Also, on the Split ND, you would not be
able to move it up and down to get it in the right spot (the Split
ND Cokin is very tall, so lots of room for adjustment).
Thanks for the info on the filter and action, very nice effect.
Are you using the ND on the front? Not dropped into the rear filte
slot? What do you use to hold the filter in the front if that is
the way you are doing it? Using the lense cap filter threads seems
to take away some light from the corners at the 15mm end.
Thanks and again very nice deep pictures.
Oh what is the dv pro action? link? =)
I am holding the Filter (Cokin P Series) in front of the lens (only
dropped it a bunch of times so far :) It's pretty hard on the
filter (the way I do it) as I am constantly dragging it up and down
the front (oh, and dropping it :)
It causes no Vignetting, and I am for the most part able to keep my
big fat fingers out of the way.

The DV Pro action is the Fred Miranda Version (not free) but I have
recently seen a ton of links for all kinds of free actions (I think
a search on Velvia would do it). Most of these pictures are Level
1 through 4 out of like 12, so you can REALLY make the colors pop,
so the Miranda actions are certainly worth the $$.
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
--
Everything looks better when you turn your head and squint.
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
--
Everything looks better when you turn your head and squint.
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
--
Everything looks better when you turn your head and squint.
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
 
Good point for difficult subjects
...the neutral density graduated filter is a film tool. With a
digital camera you are better off shooting two shots with different
exposures and digitally blending them.
That is a great technique, IF you have a tripod, and a non moving
subject.
These shots were taken handheld, so I would not have been able to
100% line them up again. Also, the wind was really howling, so the
grass/trees were moving, this would have caused strange effects.
For the cost of a $12 filter, I can get the shot out of the camera
the 1st time (in one shot), without having to bracket, then combine
in PS.
Here's a tutorial:
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/digital-blending.shtml
I love them! The one with the skull is especially good..

I'm going out and getting myself a cokin nd filter asap :P

Thanks :)
--
mrbernie - nikon d100
http://www.zhytek.com.au/gallery/
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
 
OK, more like Green-ish yellow waves of grain this time of year,
but getting close!

BTW, when you link to Pbase, what size pic do you tlink to?
(Medium, Large?).
you used a polarizer or a grad. filter? It's amazing what filters can add to a picture, great shots! On the pbase sizing, I allways resize my pictures in photoshop for pbase to either 800x600 or 600x800 depending on the picture orientation. If you don't do this, and you upload the picture at original size, pbase makes it's own compression on the picture to give you the large, medium, and small viewing options. So if you resize your picture to 800x600 it will give you the options of viewing original, medium, and small. The original viewing is the same size as the large if you were to upload the full file.

--
~ Ping279 ~
http://www.pbase.com/ping279
Florida highschool student, aspiring photographer

FCAS Member

• I live for the small things in life, they keep my camera nice
and busy •
Nikon D70 ; 18-70 DX, 70-300 ED D - CP 4•5•0•0
 
I uploaded the same picture to pbase twice, but one was the original file size and the other was resized in photoshop to 600x800 then uploaded. You can tell a difference in the quality of the picture in the first one, it is the original file which is compressed by pbase.





--
~ Ping279 ~
http://www.pbase.com/ping279
Florida highschool student, aspiring photographer

FCAS Member

• I live for the small things in life, they keep my camera nice
and busy •
Nikon D70 ; 18-70 DX, 70-300 ED D - CP 4•5•0•0
 
While post processing is certainly an option in digital, IMO ND Grads remain essential.

Why? First off, who wants to spend 20 minutes post processing the image if it can be shot in camera. Second, IF one does NOT have a tripod, all bets are off with post processing... Why? Because it's going to be difficult to hold the camera steady enough to get shots exposed for the highlights, and then shadows. Maybe a fast sequence in auto bracket mode would work, maybe not.

IMO if one can get the shot in camera, that's definately the way to go. I post process ALL my images, however I like to limit it in most cases to basic color, saturation, shadow and highlight adjustments.

Advanced PS techniques are very cool, but they are also time consuming. I spend too much of my life sitting at a computer as it is!

Ron
Here's a tutorial:
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/digital-blending.shtml
I love them! The one with the skull is especially good..

I'm going out and getting myself a cokin nd filter asap :P

Thanks :)
--
mrbernie - nikon d100
http://www.zhytek.com.au/gallery/
 
I uploaded the same picture to pbase twice, but one was the
original file size and the other was resized in photoshop to
600x800 then uploaded. You can tell a difference in the quality of
the picture in the first one, it is the original file which is
compressed by pbase.
Wow, nice pic! Thanks for the reply on the sizing, just the info I was looking for.




--
~ Ping279 ~
http://www.pbase.com/ping279
Florida highschool student, aspiring photographer

FCAS Member

• I live for the small things in life, they keep my camera nice
and busy •
Nikon D70 ; 18-70 DX, 70-300 ED D - CP 4•5•0•0
--
http://hercemer.dyndns.org/gallery/
 

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