A2 P exposure bug: a hypothesis.

LeifShutter

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I was playing around with my A2 this afternoon, watching the camera keep the aperture stuck on 7.1, and then something occured to me.

I have the lens wrung out to 200mm. First, as I swing the camera towards brighter light, the aperture stays at 7.1 while the shutter speed continues to shorten. All well and good, the idea is for the camera to keep the lens in the sweet spot at 7.1.

Then I swing the camera towards darker areas, and again, with the aperture staying at 7.1, longer and longer shutter speeds are being selected. The speed gets to 1/200, but it doesn't stop there. And, of course, that appears to be the problem, me thinks that maybe it should allow the aperture to change now, and allow the shutter speed to stay at 1/200 sec, in order to stop handheld blur. But sadly no, the aperture stays locked 7.1, and the shutter gets longer and longer, until... hey, at 1/60 second, the camera snaps out of it and finally adjusts the aperture.

It occurs to me that the bug might be that the camera expects the AS to be on. And in that case, we would continue to get good handheld results right down to the 1/60 sec, with the lens zoomed out to 200mm.

--

 
All would be fine as long as the camera firmware would look at the status of the AS. You would think the camera would look at the status of the AS, then decide. The status is available, as it is recorded in the EXIF info. Minolta needs to fix some major issues in the firmware. OOF, exposure, and P mode issues would be a good start.

Paul

1). OOF - this one got me today
2). Exposure
I was playing around with my A2 this afternoon, watching the camera
keep the aperture stuck on 7.1, and then something occured to me.

I have the lens wrung out to 200mm. First, as I swing the camera
towards brighter light, the aperture stays at 7.1 while the shutter
speed continues to shorten. All well and good, the idea is for the
camera to keep the lens in the sweet spot at 7.1.

Then I swing the camera towards darker areas, and again, with the
aperture staying at 7.1, longer and longer shutter speeds are being
selected. The speed gets to 1/200, but it doesn't stop there. And,
of course, that appears to be the problem, me thinks that maybe it
should allow the aperture to change now, and allow the shutter
speed to stay at 1/200 sec, in order to stop handheld blur. But
sadly no, the aperture stays locked 7.1, and the shutter gets
longer and longer, until... hey, at 1/60 second, the camera snaps
out of it and finally adjusts the aperture.

It occurs to me that the bug might be that the camera expects the
AS to be on. And in that case, we would continue to get good
handheld results right down to the 1/60 sec, with the lens zoomed
out to 200mm.

--

 
I think you are right.
I was playing around with my A2 this afternoon, watching the camera
keep the aperture stuck on 7.1, and then something occured to me.

I have the lens wrung out to 200mm. First, as I swing the camera
towards brighter light, the aperture stays at 7.1 while the shutter
speed continues to shorten. All well and good, the idea is for the
camera to keep the lens in the sweet spot at 7.1.

Then I swing the camera towards darker areas, and again, with the
aperture staying at 7.1, longer and longer shutter speeds are being
selected. The speed gets to 1/200, but it doesn't stop there. And,
of course, that appears to be the problem, me thinks that maybe it
should allow the aperture to change now, and allow the shutter
speed to stay at 1/200 sec, in order to stop handheld blur. But
sadly no, the aperture stays locked 7.1, and the shutter gets
longer and longer, until... hey, at 1/60 second, the camera snaps
out of it and finally adjusts the aperture.

It occurs to me that the bug might be that the camera expects the
AS to be on. And in that case, we would continue to get good
handheld results right down to the 1/60 sec, with the lens zoomed
out to 200mm.
If you repeat your test with AS off you will see that as you get to shutter speeds slower than 1/200 the AS warning sign turns on. As others have posted if you still insist on 1/200 you can use exposure lock or Ps shutter.
Minolta has more faith in AS than some of the complainers.
 
Well, did Fotog hae the AS "on" while he was running this test?

I don't have an A2 yet, but Fotog might try this scenario with the Exp Mode dial set to Sports, which is like P, but the camera tries to keep the shutter time short.
I was playing around with my A2 this afternoon, watching the camera
keep the aperture stuck on 7.1, and then something occured to me.

I have the lens wrung out to 200mm. First, as I swing the camera
towards brighter light, the aperture stays at 7.1 while the shutter
speed continues to shorten. All well and good, the idea is for the
camera to keep the lens in the sweet spot at 7.1.

Then I swing the camera towards darker areas, and again, with the
aperture staying at 7.1, longer and longer shutter speeds are being
selected. The speed gets to 1/200, but it doesn't stop there. And,
of course, that appears to be the problem, me thinks that maybe it
should allow the aperture to change now, and allow the shutter
speed to stay at 1/200 sec, in order to stop handheld blur. But
sadly no, the aperture stays locked 7.1, and the shutter gets
longer and longer, until... hey, at 1/60 second, the camera snaps
out of it and finally adjusts the aperture.

It occurs to me that the bug might be that the camera expects the
AS to be on. And in that case, we would continue to get good
handheld results right down to the 1/60 sec, with the lens zoomed
out to 200mm.
If you repeat your test with AS off you will see that as you get to
shutter speeds slower than 1/200 the AS warning sign turns on. As
others have posted if you still insist on 1/200 you can use
exposure lock or Ps shutter.
Minolta has more faith in AS than some of the complainers.
--
Russell
 
Does the camera lock at f/7.1 only at full zoom (and i mean full)? If you set the camera at wide FL and aim at a bright light, at what FL does it start to lock the f number at 7.1?

Tom
I was playing around with my A2 this afternoon, watching the camera
keep the aperture stuck on 7.1, and then something occured to me.

I have the lens wrung out to 200mm. First, as I swing the camera
towards brighter light, the aperture stays at 7.1 while the shutter
speed continues to shorten. All well and good, the idea is for the
camera to keep the lens in the sweet spot at 7.1.

Then I swing the camera towards darker areas, and again, with the
aperture staying at 7.1, longer and longer shutter speeds are being
selected. The speed gets to 1/200, but it doesn't stop there. And,
of course, that appears to be the problem, me thinks that maybe it
should allow the aperture to change now, and allow the shutter
speed to stay at 1/200 sec, in order to stop handheld blur. But
sadly no, the aperture stays locked 7.1, and the shutter gets
longer and longer, until... hey, at 1/60 second, the camera snaps
out of it and finally adjusts the aperture.

It occurs to me that the bug might be that the camera expects the
AS to be on. And in that case, we would continue to get good
handheld results right down to the 1/60 sec, with the lens zoomed
out to 200mm.

--

 
Not sure. I'll verify in the morning.
Tom
I was playing around with my A2 this afternoon, watching the camera
keep the aperture stuck on 7.1, and then something occured to me.

I have the lens wrung out to 200mm. First, as I swing the camera
towards brighter light, the aperture stays at 7.1 while the shutter
speed continues to shorten. All well and good, the idea is for the
camera to keep the lens in the sweet spot at 7.1.

Then I swing the camera towards darker areas, and again, with the
aperture staying at 7.1, longer and longer shutter speeds are being
selected. The speed gets to 1/200, but it doesn't stop there. And,
of course, that appears to be the problem, me thinks that maybe it
should allow the aperture to change now, and allow the shutter
speed to stay at 1/200 sec, in order to stop handheld blur. But
sadly no, the aperture stays locked 7.1, and the shutter gets
longer and longer, until... hey, at 1/60 second, the camera snaps
out of it and finally adjusts the aperture.

It occurs to me that the bug might be that the camera expects the
AS to be on. And in that case, we would continue to get good
handheld results right down to the 1/60 sec, with the lens zoomed
out to 200mm.

--

--

 
While browsing through my A2 shots which all have been taken in P mode I noticed that 70-80% of them are with F7.1.

It picks unneccesary slow shutter speeds as well I noticed. Often, even when flash is enabled I get a 1/50s at 28mm and 1/200s at 200mm. Also in sports mode I noticed very slow shutter speeds.
 
Hello,
Very interesting hypothesis.
I guess you're right, fotog.

I've not my A2 at the moment : it is in Germany for repair (one month yet...), so I can't test.
I think this is not a major issue, and could be corrected with a new firmware.

About OOf issue, it is interesting to know that KM Germany answered to me that my A2 needed a spare part to be replaced. If true, that means it is NOT a firmware bug.
I'll let you know the results of my testing as soon as I get my A2 back.
Hope this helps
Cheers
André
Tom
I was playing around with my A2 this afternoon, watching the camera
keep the aperture stuck on 7.1, and then something occured to me.

I have the lens wrung out to 200mm. First, as I swing the camera
towards brighter light, the aperture stays at 7.1 while the shutter
speed continues to shorten. All well and good, the idea is for the
camera to keep the lens in the sweet spot at 7.1.

Then I swing the camera towards darker areas, and again, with the
aperture staying at 7.1, longer and longer shutter speeds are being
selected. The speed gets to 1/200, but it doesn't stop there. And,
of course, that appears to be the problem, me thinks that maybe it
should allow the aperture to change now, and allow the shutter
speed to stay at 1/200 sec, in order to stop handheld blur. But
sadly no, the aperture stays locked 7.1, and the shutter gets
longer and longer, until... hey, at 1/60 second, the camera snaps
out of it and finally adjusts the aperture.

It occurs to me that the bug might be that the camera expects the
AS to be on. And in that case, we would continue to get good
handheld results right down to the 1/60 sec, with the lens zoomed
out to 200mm.

--

--

 
Perhaps someone could enlighten me - why would one turn off AS for handheld shooting anyway? If you set it active for exposure only then surely battery drain is minimal.

Personally I think the only reason Minolta allow it to be turned on/off is so they can legitimately put a great big green LED on the back to highlight the feature.

(Maybe I'm a moron novice or just have an unusually steady hand, but I don't think twice about shooting at 1/60 at full tele for static subjects - and I haven't had problems with motion blur. Then again, I don't think I've ever used "P" or "Auto", and the program settings got switched to memory recalls as soon as I figured out how. :) )
 
All would be fine as long as the camera firmware would look at the
status of the AS. You would think the camera would look at the
status of the AS, then decide. The status is available, as it is
recorded in the EXIF info. Minolta needs to fix some major issues
in the firmware. OOF, exposure, and P mode issues would be a good
start.

Paul
The defect is also with AS off, and for further information see:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1024&message=8981984

I don't think that it would be any good even with AS on, since I often shoot moving targets, and also a 7.1 aperture is a non sense since P mode whould provide a "reasonable" value, that shoud be have a faster shutter speed.

Also, it behaves like a bug, so since seems also easy to fix (firmware), I think we should cry loud at minolta, and don't tell "ok, I can live with it using Ps or Pa", simply it should work fine!
 
Minolta allows you to turn it off due to the heat caused when it is on and also there are times when you don't want to wait for the stabilization to work before pressing the shutter.
Perhaps someone could enlighten me - why would one turn off AS for
handheld shooting anyway? If you set it active for exposure only
then surely battery drain is minimal.

Personally I think the only reason Minolta allow it to be turned
on/off is so they can legitimately put a great big green LED on the
back to highlight the feature.

(Maybe I'm a moron novice or just have an unusually steady hand,
but I don't think twice about shooting at 1/60 at full tele for
static subjects - and I haven't had problems with motion blur.
Then again, I don't think I've ever used "P" or "Auto", and the
program settings got switched to memory recalls as soon as I
figured out how. :) )
--
Frank B

Albums A2, 10D, T1, etc
http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/pictures?
 
According to the manual, Anti-Shake is only enabled "when the shutter speed falls below a certain limit depending on the focal length in use."

So unless you're shooting a lot of low shutter speed shots, it won't come into play enough to overheat IMO. The manual also says to turn it off for tripod-mounted shots (as it's not needed).

The only heat issue that I've encountered so far has been when shooting many pics in rapid succession, especially raw, where the CF card gets mighty warm/hot with write operations. I have removed the battery on such occasions and found it no be hardly even warm.

I have not been shooting in particularly hot weather yet, though.

--
Ingo

 
Your quote is correct, but the manual is wrong.

I have tested my camera at 1/2000 of a second with anitshake on and you can actually see the shaking start when you turn it off and stop when you turn it on. When you have it on it works whenever you take a picture regardless of shutter speed or focal length.

If you look at the bottom of the page from which you took the quote (p. 37) it says:

"If the Anti-shake indicator turns red, the camera is overheating because of operating

and ambient temperatures. The Anti-shake system will turn off automatically. Allow the

camera to cool before using Anti-shake". So it is clear that the antishake contributes some additional heat. Some people like to keep it off except when they are using it for this reason.

Another reason for being able to shut antishake off is that it uses power and it saves the battery to shut it off.
According to the manual, Anti-Shake is only enabled "when the
shutter speed falls below a certain limit depending on the focal
length in use."

So unless you're shooting a lot of low shutter speed shots, it
won't come into play enough to overheat IMO. The manual also says
to turn it off for tripod-mounted shots (as it's not needed).

The only heat issue that I've encountered so far has been when
shooting many pics in rapid succession, especially raw, where the
CF card gets mighty warm/hot with write operations. I have removed
the battery on such occasions and found it no be hardly even warm.

I have not been shooting in particularly hot weather yet, though.

--
Ingo

--
Frank B

Albums A2, 10D, T1, etc
http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/pictures?
 

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