Kent Johnson
Veteran Member
Patricia,
One thing you will probably find is that when the levelling head (or anything else with a spirit level in it) says it is level and you place your own level accross the surface of the object it may not actually be level. And when you get that level you find that the PCL-1 is not level (according to it's spirit level). And when you get that level and check the camera IT is not level. And then as you pan around the camera is level in some postitions and not in others. So it can be a bit mind boggling. In the end the sensor needs to be level. Oh, and don't forget that the hot shoe is also not to be trusted with a twin bubble in it. Always level (up/down) the front of the lens with a small torpedo level to "calibrate" your hotshoe bubble level. There are times when everyting says it is level and it doesn't look level to my eye. I always trust my eye and it is almost always right.
I swear I'm going to design and build one of these system with the fanatic in mind some day
Have fun,
Kent
One thing you will probably find is that when the levelling head (or anything else with a spirit level in it) says it is level and you place your own level accross the surface of the object it may not actually be level. And when you get that level you find that the PCL-1 is not level (according to it's spirit level). And when you get that level and check the camera IT is not level. And then as you pan around the camera is level in some postitions and not in others. So it can be a bit mind boggling. In the end the sensor needs to be level. Oh, and don't forget that the hot shoe is also not to be trusted with a twin bubble in it. Always level (up/down) the front of the lens with a small torpedo level to "calibrate" your hotshoe bubble level. There are times when everyting says it is level and it doesn't look level to my eye. I always trust my eye and it is almost always right.
I swear I'm going to design and build one of these system with the fanatic in mind some day
Have fun,
Kent
Thank you very much for your helpful information. Ideally it would
be nice to have a setup for precision work and one for traveling
light. I tend to lean toward precision which is why I was curious
about the RRS gear. However, the trade off I will make is weight
since I travel extensively. The majority of images will be
landscapes.
I'm still a bit new to this to know what I need, which is the
reason for my post. I use the Kirk L brackets and will look at the
LRP-1 and RRS PCL-1 combination you have mentioned. (I'm using a
Kirk head on a Gitzo)
Thank you again,
--
-Patricia
1D Mk II, 10D
... and short answer is RRS. Long answer is:
...and I guess the main questions would be what do you want to
shoot and what do you want the output to be? Other questions:
Spherical or Cylindrical?
Is weight an issue?
Are you the kind of person who wants precision from one of these
machines?
How will you be stitching these images?
What tripod do you intend to use?
I shoot mostly real estate and wilderness cylindrical panos that
are rendered into QTVR movies. I have also successfully shot panos
with a monopod, hot-shoe bubble level, and a compass. It comes down
to tradeoffs. Weight, precision, and ease of use.
My current favorite rig is (top to bottom) Nikon D100 in BL-D100
"L" bracket (Kirk) fitted into a Kirk LRP-1 fitted into the RRS
PCL-1 mounted to a Manfrotto 3416 leveling head that's mounted on
my Bogen 3221WN tripod (similar to the whole RRS "Horizontal"
setup). This is far more solid than the Kaidan and breaks down
nicely for packing/travel. I can also very easily use the top two
pieces with a monopod if I wish to.
The tradeoff is not having the convenient click stops.
Check Manfrotto as well:
http://www.manfrotto.com/product/itemlist.php3?manufid=1 §ionid=11
Good luck! Panos are a lot of fun (and hard work).
Kent