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+7 to +1.3 Exposure looks best

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Michael,

This image is bordering on overexposure not under - both the shirt and the sky appear blown. I notice also that you are using AWB. You should probably shoot this with cloudy -2 or flash +3 to get rid of the dominant blues. The image appears flat because that is what the scene appears at 7:00 at night. If you want more vivid colors, you can always saturate them to your liking, but based on this image, your camera is not underexposing at all. Your histogram my be a little to the left because the overall scene is dark compared to the shirt and the sky which the camera was trying to preserve. Thanks for posting exif data.
michael christofas said:


Filename : DSC_1709.JPG
JFIF_APP1 : Exif
Main Information
Make : NIKON CORPORATION
Model : NIKON D70
Orientation : left-hand side
XResolution : 300/1
YResolution : 300/1
ResolutionUnit : Inch
Software : Ver.1.01
DateTime : 2004:05:30 19:14:55
YCbCrPositioning : co-sited
ExifInfoOffset : 216
Sub Information
ExposureTime : 1/80Sec
FNumber : F5.0
ExposureProgram : Program Normal
ExifVersion : 0221
DateTimeOriginal : 2004:05:30 19:14:55
DateTimeDigitized : 2004:05:30 19:14:55
ComponentConfiguration : YCbCr
CompressedBitsPerPixel : 2/1 (bit/pixel)
ExposureBiasValue : EV0.0
MaxApertureValue : F4.4
MeteringMode : Division
LightSource : Unidentified
Flash : Not fired
FocalLength : 70.00(mm)
MakerNote : Nikon COOLPIX Format : 28302Bytes (Offset:848)
UserComment :
SubSecTime : 00
SubSecTimeOriginal : 00
SubSecTimeDigitized : 00
FlashPixVersion : 0100
ColorSpace : sRGB
ExifImageWidth : 3008
ExifImageHeight : 2000
ExifInteroperabilityOffset : 29142
SensingMethod : OneChipColorArea sensor
FileSource : DSC
SceneType : A directly photographed image
CFAPattern : 8 Bytes
CustomRendered : Custom process
ExposureMode : Auto
WhiteBalance : Auto
DigitalZoomRatio : 1/1
FocalLength(35mm) : 105(mm)
SceneCaptureType : Standard
GainControl : None
Contrast : Normal
Saturation : Normal
Sharpness : Soft
SubjectDistanceRange : Unknown
ExifR98
ExifR : R98
Version : 0100
Thumbnail Information
Compression : OLDJPEG
XResolution : 300/1
YResolution : 300/1
ResolutionUnit : Inch
JPEGInterchangeFormat : 29280
JPEGInterchangeFormatLength : 8541
YCbCrPositioning : co-sited
walter matthews said:
Shooting RAW, sunny day, directly at house that has sun on it at
10:00 AM I find that the best exposure is not where the camera's
meter says zero should be. At +1.6 there is some over exposuere on
the LCD of the camera. At +1..3 there is a tiny spot and at +1 and
below there is no overexposure blinking on the LCD screen. Back at
the computer, the shots from -1 through about +.3 look dark, flat
and washed out.

Does anyone else find they need to "overexpose" to get good color?

Is the set point of my camera off, or perhaps Nikon has set it
that way so I won't get blown highlights?????
Click to expand...
--
Click to expand...
--
http://www.pbase.com/chad_gladstone/inbox
 
You know, overexposing by 1EV is just scratching the barrel of the D70 settings. By default the Contrast, Saturation, Sharpening etc. are set to very low values as compared to most point&shoots.

Why don't you try bumping those settings up and leaving them that way? Or try something like Vivid mode. Just don't be afraid to experiment, in the end I can guarantee you will find the right settings to make your camera rock.

Goes without saying, always shoot RAW and use Nikon Capture at a minimum.

I find that without any false modesty, I take MUCH better pictures with an SLR (D100 or D70) than with any of my previous P&S (Coolpix 880 and Coolpix 5700). Every time I go back to those pics as a general rule I find them a little flat and lacking...

Hope you find what you're looking for...

ad in md
walter matthews said:
walter matthews said:
I have the exact same issue with the D70 as Walter Matthews does.
The camera, especially in low light level, tends to underexpose by
1 stop with any auto exposure mode (without flash).
Click to expand...
I have continued to test the camera and it appears that it also
requires a +1 or more when using flash as well. I can, of course,
load in a coustom curve, adjust the output so that it is always +1
on the meter and tell myself that this gives me more flexibility
and capability.

It doesn't.

It just adds a few more things I have to do to keep the camera
producing good pictures.

I've had the camera now for 2 weeks and purchased it primarily as a
back up for weddings thinging that I could get away with a lower
cost back up incase my primary system failed.

Well, I could probably get by if the primary failed but not very
well. I'm disappointed with the color depth and even when properly
exposed, that is at +1 on the camera meter, the images are
relatively flat. A bunch of you will not tell me that all I have to
do is move saturation here and contrast there but that's not the
point.

When I compare actual prints made from the CollPix 8700 to the D70,
5 shots each camera, -2,-1,0, +1 and +2, same subject, same
brightly lit house at 10 AM, no adjustment in PS, right out of the
camera, - the 8700 wins on color saturation and density depth on
all prints and the optimum exposure on the 8700 is 0.

It appears to me that the sensor has less intensity range and Nikon
has compensated by setting the optimal exposure to be below
underexposed so that we will stay away from blown highlights.
Click to expand...
 
I have the exact same experience as KiwiD70 discussed here, even the different degrees of exposure compensation needed for various light levels. I posted this issue earlier but didn't get much attention. I am glad (or maybe I should say I am sad) that KiwiD70 concured with my findings.

As a relatively new guy in digital photography, I am not that familiar with the histogram. But with the limited knowledge I garnerned over the last couple of years, I can tell from my histogram that the exposure is off. Just like KiwiD70, I have used Nikon F, F2, FM, FE, FE2 and N90 shooting color slides in the last 30 years, I think I have a decent understanding of how a reflection light meter can be misled by the reflectiveness and lighting condition of the scene. And I can assure you that is NOT the reason for our results here.

In a different posting ad in md suggests that we should try changing the different settings in the camera to offset the exposure and color dullness problems. I think that is a positive attitude. I hope somebody can give me general directions as to what to adjust and maybe give me some guide values.

Thank you in advance.
KiwiD70 said:
Custom curves are not really the solution, as it's non linear
depeding on light level. I actually don't want to be forced to PP
every shot, my trusty Coolpix 5000 does a much better job of
exposing in camera than my fancy new D70 does, which disappoints
me..............

I also suspect the amount of variance differs form camera to
camera, as some seem to need nocorrection,some olny +0.3 and others
up to +1.5!

The problem is someone with a D70 thats only +0.3 out, or bang on
will tell everyone who claims theirs is worse that they don't know
how to meter, and I'll be accused of trolling by even posting
this............
SteveL54 said:
Is the side of your house very light in color? If so, the metering
system will tend to underexpose it. When I did a dust test I used a
flat white sheet of paper. The uncompensated image looked grey.
That's normal since the exposure system doesn't know if the paper
is grey or white but assumes it to be grey.

Mild underexposure can be easily compensated for in Nikon Capture.

I've had two D70s and they both behave the same in this regard. As
mentioned by others, Nikon seems to be conservative to preserve
highlight detail. The downside of lowered exposures is the loss of
shadow detail.

Steve
walter matthews said:
Shooting RAW, sunny day, directly at house that has sun on it at
10:00 AM I find that the best exposure is not where the camera's
meter says zero should be. At +1.6 there is some over exposuere on
the LCD of the camera. At +1..3 there is a tiny spot and at +1 and
below there is no overexposure blinking on the LCD screen. Back at
the computer, the shots from -1 through about +.3 look dark, flat
and washed out.

Does anyone else find they need to "overexpose" to get good color?

Is the set point of my camera off, or perhaps Nikon has set it
that way so I won't get blown highlights?????
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
No, I don't beleive that that's a factor. I'm not sure why it affects it as you would expect the ratio between viewfinder light leakage and through the lens light to stay the same as lighting levels vary. Strange.....

Despite this effect,my D70 is still underexposing so it's gne in for exposure calibration.
dianec said:
Do you think it has anything to do with the reflectivity of the
carpet?

Diane
KiwiD70 said:
Tried something interesting to throw more light (bad pun!) on my
D70 metering.I took various shots of exactly the same carpet
(nothing else in shot) under differing light levels using matrix
metering. A poor fool like me would think that 'super you beaut' 3D
matrix metering would deliver much the same image,after all all my
other cameras would. The carpet is a quite light beige. All shots
were with +1 exposure compensation. At near daylight (1/125 @F8),
the histogram was centred at around 50 %, about one stop down on
the right exposure, but fine given the carpet reflectivity, at
lower light (1/15 @F8 the histogram was centred at around 30%, at
low light (1/2 sec F8) the histogram was centred around 12 1/2 %.
All percentages refereing to the camera histogram, with i.e. 25% =
to first line from left etc.

With flash the histogram was centred around 50% - where I'd expect
it to be and about the right exposure,given the qualification above.

This variation is completely unacceptable in my view, and not
explaicable by any metering technique issues or anything at all
except very bad sensor linearity....or so I thought. I thought some
more and then shot again covering the eyepiece with my
thumb....surprise surprise the exposures came back up to normal
(bearing in mind I already had +1 dialed in) so its not necessarily
non-linearity, it just appears my D70 metering is VERY sensitive to
viewfinder light...bearing in mind that for all the first series of
shots my eye was right up against the viewfinder, EXCEPT that I
wear glasses. Food for thought?????? I wonder how may eyeglass
wearers have the same issue??
Click to expand...
--
http://www.pbase.com/doglover
Click to expand...
 
But could correct by manually white balancing rather than using AWB.

It seems the D70 has some relationaship between what it perceives as white versus grey that affects the exposure it decides that is more extreme than I have encountered in other digital cameras.

BTW in bright sunlight I had to WB against a grey card, and in low indoor light against a white card to get the WB correct, and consequent exposure consistent with the light levels (EV). If I did not do this the WB/exposure was off. Once the WB was correct the exposure was also OK on all subsequent shots under the same lighting.

--len
 
Hi there KiwiD70

I have read through the discussions this morning and just wondered if you have had any of your underexposed shots printed off and what they are like?

I know you said you've had 30 years of photography experience but some advanced shooters sometimes have a hard time breaking into digital. Do you check the histogram on your shots for correct exposure? Also have you calibrated your monitor and corrected gamma? (A big step to ensuring your image appears well exposed on your PC/MAC). A badly calibrated monitor with the wrong colour profile can give the impression of serious underexposure. You've tried WW v35 which is calibrated to 18% grey. Therefore if this isnt giving you consistent exposure when your metering is correct then i would safely assume your cameras meter is mis-calabrated.

Im aware you may already know these things so dont take it the wrong way, i just had to check :)

--
D70 Curve tests
http://www.pbase.com/oldskoo1
 
Sounds like the D70 makes Walter Matthews, KiwiD70 and I three angry men because we are stuck with a defective (or mis-calibrated) $1,000 new camera.

I hope the the curve thing is a cure to our misery. But it sounds like I need the Nikon Capture software to apply the new curve (sorry for my ignorance in digital photography), which I don't have, can some of you with simular underexposing cameras help me by testing the new curves and see if they actually help our problems?

Thank you in advance.

BTW, it would be more constructive if we stop talking above proper way of metering for a while. My Canon Powershot S45 point and shoot digicam gets more acurate and consistant exposure than my new D70, not to mention my 6 other Nikon film cameras which I don't have any complaints at all.
OldSkoOL said:
Hi there KiwiD70

I have read through the discussions this morning and just wondered
if you have had any of your underexposed shots printed off and what
they are like?

I know you said you've had 30 years of photography experience but
some advanced shooters sometimes have a hard time breaking into
digital. Do you check the histogram on your shots for correct
exposure? Also have you calibrated your monitor and corrected
gamma? (A big step to ensuring your image appears well exposed on
your PC/MAC). A badly calibrated monitor with the wrong colour
profile can give the impression of serious underexposure. You've
tried WW v35 which is calibrated to 18% grey. Therefore if this
isnt giving you consistent exposure when your metering is correct
then i would safely assume your cameras meter is mis-calabrated.

Im aware you may already know these things so dont take it the
wrong way, i just had to check :)

--
D70 Curve tests
http://www.pbase.com/oldskoo1
Click to expand...
 
I'll take more shots today, if it doesn't rain. that shot was not the best example, but rather just another blah image that should have been way more vivid. I was late in the day, not quite sun set, but not that extremely bright (midday sun). If you look at the pic it looks like it was taken on a hot, humid, hazy day with blinding sun. Doesn't the shot appear to be shot through a old window? I should also mention that I was using the Fotogenics latest curve Proviea.

I would bump up the ev using the histogram but the whites already look blown to me.
walter matthews said:
Put in +1.3 and shoot it again and it will be better.

As i said, the D70 needs +1.3 to fit the full range of exposure in
the usable distribution on relatively low contrast subjects like
you shot.
Click to expand...
 
I wouldn't have personally used the Provia curve for that situation. The subject and background are already very low in contrast. Using a low contrast curve on top of that will only lead to a poor photograph. I would've used either "more" or "normal". I probably would've metered off of the subjects white shirt and used +2 EV to make the shirt as white as can be without blowing out and letting the other objects in the scene fall where they may.
michael christofas said:
I would bump up the ev using the histogram but the whites already
look blown to me.
walter matthews said:
Put in +1.3 and shoot it again and it will be better.

As i said, the D70 needs +1.3 to fit the full range of exposure in
the usable distribution on relatively low contrast subjects like
you shot.
Click to expand...
--
Click to expand...
--
http://fotogenetic.dearingfilm.com
 
David, The picture looks much better. And I do agree that the shirt is already blown. And I should have mentioned that I was using fotogenic's provia v34. I'll try to be more aware of the wb setting. I will be shooting raw once my new 1gb cf gets here so well see what happens then.
Mike c.
David Chin said:
... of how the picture should look like, IMO, if the correct white
balance had been chosen (I "warmed" the picture up in Photoshop,
and pushed the black point up 20 points using Levels). I'd like to
politely disagree with Walter's advice of pushing up the EV by +1.3
for this shot - as it is, her shirt is already showing blown
white's, and the green foliage is already on the slightly "bright"
side - dialling in EV +1.3 would have ruined this picture. I'll
remove the picture as soon as you have seen this:



--
Regards, David
(D.7.0. & C.P.4.5.0.0.)
http://www.fotop.net/dlcmh/
http://www.pbase.com/dlcmh
http://www.pbase.com/dlcmh/dslr_links
Click to expand...
 
David, I was looking through your gallery and noticed the pics of your 5400 after being serviced. My Pics all seem like your 4500 (haze effect) when What I want is like you 5400 after service :) What was the problem with the 5400? Did they tell you?

Mike c.
 
Hi, Thanks for your comments,but I've been shooting digital for 5 years now,and believe me, my D70 underexposes. Actually, the whole b/f thing which is just a factory calibration error, makes me wonder if there's a similar problem with a few D70's with exposure calibration, ...new factory, new staff, high production targets etc.If you look over the posts there's more than a few very disappointed with D70 exposures, and quite a few of them have come from other digitals so should know what they're talking about ..... food for thought...still I'll know when I get mine back recalibrated if it's any different.

To be brutally honest,I was so excited with the D70 specs and bearable price when it came out I was nearly drooling, but so far its been disappointment after disappointment, I'm sure when its back it will be fine, but so far its been three trips to the dealer, 1 body swap, 1 body/lens in for service for b/f, and now my D70 is in for exposure recalibration. In the four weeks I've had a D70 I haven't actually had it for 3!
OldSkoOL said:
Hi there KiwiD70

I have read through the discussions this morning and just wondered
if you have had any of your underexposed shots printed off and what
they are like?

I know you said you've had 30 years of photography experience but
some advanced shooters sometimes have a hard time breaking into
digital. Do you check the histogram on your shots for correct
exposure? Also have you calibrated your monitor and corrected
gamma? (A big step to ensuring your image appears well exposed on
your PC/MAC). A badly calibrated monitor with the wrong colour
profile can give the impression of serious underexposure. You've
tried WW v35 which is calibrated to 18% grey. Therefore if this
isnt giving you consistent exposure when your metering is correct
then i would safely assume your cameras meter is mis-calabrated.

Im aware you may already know these things so dont take it the
wrong way, i just had to check :)

--
D70 Curve tests
http://www.pbase.com/oldskoo1
Click to expand...
 
... (actually, it's my brother-in-law who lent me the unit) had a focus problem - it couldn't focus on anything beyond twenty feet - the service card just mentioned camera calibration - who knows aht they actually did. Whatever the case - it's now sharp as tack!

I'm concerned that you may be facing the same problem with the D70. A simple test should tell you a lot. Wait for a bright, sunny day. Put your D70 in Landscape Scene mode (yup, not P mode, nor any other mode) and shoot a building across the street, preferably something with lots of detail. Post your picture here and email me or just get the opinion of others - hopefully we'd be able to find out if your unit is defective.
michael christofas said:
David, I was looking through your gallery and noticed the pics of
your 5400 after being serviced. My Pics all seem like your 4500
(haze effect) when What I want is like you 5400 after service :)
What was the problem with the 5400? Did they tell you?

Mike c.
Click to expand...
--
Regards, David
(D.7.0. & C.P.4.5.0.0.)
http://www.fotop.net/dlcmh/
http://www.pbase.com/dlcmh
http://www.pbase.com/dlcmh/dslr_links
 
Michael,

I agree with David and Chad. The white balance is off. I keep my D70's white balance adjustment setting to Auto -2. That will reduce the bluish cast. That makes my photos more natural looking. Without this adjustment all my photos have a bluish cast.

As mentioned before, this is my second D70, and like the +0.3 EV, I also found both cameras need -2 WB adjustment to get reasonably balanced photos. This adjustment works pretty well under most lighting conditions. With a properly calibrated camera, I would expect WB -2 would consitently yield warm looking photos. But too my eyes -- and displayed on many different monitors -- WB -2 comes closest to natural colors.

When I have the rare luxury of being able to do a manual WB with the D70 I get excellent results.

Steve
michael christofas said:


Filename : DSC_1709.JPG
JFIF_APP1 : Exif
Main Information
Make : NIKON CORPORATION
Model : NIKON D70
Orientation : left-hand side
XResolution : 300/1
YResolution : 300/1
ResolutionUnit : Inch
Software : Ver.1.01
DateTime : 2004:05:30 19:14:55
YCbCrPositioning : co-sited
ExifInfoOffset : 216
Sub Information
ExposureTime : 1/80Sec
FNumber : F5.0
ExposureProgram : Program Normal
ExifVersion : 0221
DateTimeOriginal : 2004:05:30 19:14:55
DateTimeDigitized : 2004:05:30 19:14:55
ComponentConfiguration : YCbCr
CompressedBitsPerPixel : 2/1 (bit/pixel)
ExposureBiasValue : EV0.0
MaxApertureValue : F4.4
MeteringMode : Division
LightSource : Unidentified
Flash : Not fired
FocalLength : 70.00(mm)
MakerNote : Nikon COOLPIX Format : 28302Bytes (Offset:848)
UserComment :
SubSecTime : 00
SubSecTimeOriginal : 00
SubSecTimeDigitized : 00
FlashPixVersion : 0100
ColorSpace : sRGB
ExifImageWidth : 3008
ExifImageHeight : 2000
ExifInteroperabilityOffset : 29142
SensingMethod : OneChipColorArea sensor
FileSource : DSC
SceneType : A directly photographed image
CFAPattern : 8 Bytes
CustomRendered : Custom process
ExposureMode : Auto
WhiteBalance : Auto
DigitalZoomRatio : 1/1
FocalLength(35mm) : 105(mm)
SceneCaptureType : Standard
GainControl : None
Contrast : Normal
Saturation : Normal
Sharpness : Soft
SubjectDistanceRange : Unknown
ExifR98
ExifR : R98
Version : 0100
Thumbnail Information
Compression : OLDJPEG
XResolution : 300/1
YResolution : 300/1
ResolutionUnit : Inch
JPEGInterchangeFormat : 29280
JPEGInterchangeFormatLength : 8541
YCbCrPositioning : co-sited
walter matthews said:
Shooting RAW, sunny day, directly at house that has sun on it at
10:00 AM I find that the best exposure is not where the camera's
meter says zero should be. At +1.6 there is some over exposuere on
the LCD of the camera. At +1..3 there is a tiny spot and at +1 and
below there is no overexposure blinking on the LCD screen. Back at
the computer, the shots from -1 through about +.3 look dark, flat
and washed out.

Does anyone else find they need to "overexpose" to get good color?

Is the set point of my camera off, or perhaps Nikon has set it
that way so I won't get blown highlights?????
Click to expand...
--
Click to expand...
 
Chad Gladstone said:
michael christofas said:


Filename : DSC_1709.JPG
JFIF_APP1 : Exif
Main Information
Make : NIKON CORPORATION
Model : NIKON D70
Orientation : left-hand side
XResolution : 300/1
YResolution : 300/1
ResolutionUnit : Inch
Software : Ver.1.01
DateTime : 2004:05:30 19:14:55
YCbCrPositioning : co-sited
ExifInfoOffset : 216
Sub Information
ExposureTime : 1/80Sec
FNumber : F5.0
ExposureProgram : Program Normal
ExifVersion : 0221
DateTimeOriginal : 2004:05:30 19:14:55
DateTimeDigitized : 2004:05:30 19:14:55
ComponentConfiguration : YCbCr
CompressedBitsPerPixel : 2/1 (bit/pixel)
ExposureBiasValue : EV0.0
MaxApertureValue : F4.4
MeteringMode : Division
LightSource : Unidentified
Flash : Not fired
FocalLength : 70.00(mm)
MakerNote : Nikon COOLPIX Format : 28302Bytes (Offset:848)
UserComment :
SubSecTime : 00
SubSecTimeOriginal : 00
SubSecTimeDigitized : 00
FlashPixVersion : 0100
ColorSpace : sRGB
ExifImageWidth : 3008
ExifImageHeight : 2000
ExifInteroperabilityOffset : 29142
SensingMethod : OneChipColorArea sensor
FileSource : DSC
SceneType : A directly photographed image
CFAPattern : 8 Bytes
CustomRendered : Custom process
ExposureMode : Auto
WhiteBalance : Auto
DigitalZoomRatio : 1/1
FocalLength(35mm) : 105(mm)
SceneCaptureType : Standard
GainControl : None
Contrast : Normal
Saturation : Normal
Sharpness : Soft
SubjectDistanceRange : Unknown
ExifR98
ExifR : R98
Version : 0100
Thumbnail Information
Compression : OLDJPEG
XResolution : 300/1
YResolution : 300/1
ResolutionUnit : Inch
JPEGInterchangeFormat : 29280
JPEGInterchangeFormatLength : 8541
YCbCrPositioning : co-sited
walter matthews said:
Shooting RAW, sunny day, directly at house that has sun on it at
10:00 AM I find that the best exposure is not where the camera's
meter says zero should be. At +1.6 there is some over exposuere on
the LCD of the camera. At +1..3 there is a tiny spot and at +1 and
below there is no overexposure blinking on the LCD screen. Back at
the computer, the shots from -1 through about +.3 look dark, flat
and washed out.

Does anyone else find they need to "overexpose" to get good color?

Is the set point of my camera off, or perhaps Nikon has set it
that way so I won't get blown highlights?????
Click to expand...
--
Click to expand...
--
http://www.pbase.com/chad_gladstone/inbox
Click to expand...
Hi All,

I used a D70 for only two days, so evaluate the followings taking that fact into consideration.
1. Put the metering mode to center weighted average.
2. Set the evaluating circle's diameter to at least 8 mm.
3. Set the camera to mode M.
4. Focus on the girl's shirt and fill the center circle with the white shirt.

5. At the desired aperture set the exposition time, so that the indicator stops at about 1 1/3, or 1 2/3 overexposure.
6. Take the shot.

7. Look at the histogram - make sure the extreme right part will not touch the right side.

I think, you would get a good exposed picture.
Sorry for my bad English.

LyPapa
 
At least with my D70, a +.7 exposure with the camera set to "vivid" gives usable prints, without manipulation in PS, over a reasonable range of light conditions. Whether or not there is an exposure "fault" with the camera doesn't really concern me since it seems to work nicely with those settings dialed in all the way from bright sunlight down to ISO 800, 1/30 of a second wide open. (To be fair, I think I need another +.3 to +.6 at very low light levels) Flash exposure is good at the +.7/Vivid and the color saturation is also pretty good. The color saturation is not what I'm accustomed to with the Fuji S2 but the pictures are well within my acceptable range and I am now confident that the D70 can serve as a solid backup.

Just to be sure, I went back to how I shot part of the wedding last weekend, with Stnd instead of Vivid and -.3 rather than +.7 and, sure enough I can duplicate the flat, relatively lifeless and unsellable prints I made last weekend. The difference in print quality is pretty dramatic too.

Some might argue that the flat and relatively dull rendition of color is what is actually there, and, to be honest, I tend to agree, but color and contrast is what sells and I'll save the low constast shots for when I am in the "art" mood on another day and in another life-- maybe.
 
walter matthews wrote:
\> Some might argue that the flat and relatively dull rendition of
walter matthews said:
color is what is actually there, and, to be honest, I tend to
agree, but color and contrast is what sells and I'll save the low
constast shots for when I am in the "art" mood on another day and
in another life-- maybe.
Click to expand...
Walter, I agree with that totally!
Mike C.
 
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