Multi-metering mode tutorial here!

Steve Norton said:

OK a lot of people are getting confused about how to use
multi-metering mode on their C8080 so here's a little tutorial for
those who want to use it.

The first photo is taken with the usual ESP mode which is adequate
for about 75% of all shots. Some shots though need a bit more user
control to get the results you want and that's where the multi mode
comes in.

It's a lot to ask of your camera to be able to take perfect
exposures every time without your input. If it could there would be
no professional photographers as everybody would be a pro.

The shot below was taken in ESP mode and proved to much for the
camera this mode as the highlights are well blown and a lot of
detail is lost.



The next shot is taken by using the camera in multi-metering mode
where a person samples segments of a scene by using the AEL button
which is located on the front of the camera and pressing it upto 8
times at different portions of the scene.

Notice how the details on the left are now visible where as in ESP
mode they are blown.



The photo below shows the points that were metered. More points
could have been sampled but in this instance only 4 were needed.



Please try this technique yourself as you have a camera which is
quite advanced and it would be a bit of a waste not to stretch both
your own and cameras ability. See how far you can take this camera!

Some more examples of multi metering can be seen here:
http://www.pbase.com/stevieboroboy/c8080_shots&page=all

Regards
Steve
--
'Unless you go beyond what you have already mastered you will not
grow'
http://www.freeyourmind.info

Click to expand...

Steve Norton said:

OK a lot of people are getting confused about how to use
multi-metering mode on their C8080 so here's a little tutorial for
those who want to use it.

The first photo is taken with the usual ESP mode which is adequate
for about 75% of all shots. Some shots though need a bit more user
control to get the results you want and that's where the multi mode
comes in.

It's a lot to ask of your camera to be able to take perfect
exposures every time without your input. If it could there would be
no professional photographers as everybody would be a pro.

The shot below was taken in ESP mode and proved to much for the
camera this mode as the highlights are well blown and a lot of
detail is lost.



The next shot is taken by using the camera in multi-metering mode
where a person samples segments of a scene by using the AEL button
which is located on the front of the camera and pressing it upto 8
times at different portions of the scene.

Notice how the details on the left are now visible where as in ESP
mode they are blown.



The photo below shows the points that were metered. More points
could have been sampled but in this instance only 4 were needed.



Please try this technique yourself as you have a camera which is
quite advanced and it would be a bit of a waste not to stretch both
your own and cameras ability. See how far you can take this camera!

Some more examples of multi metering can be seen here:
http://www.pbase.com/stevieboroboy/c8080_shots&page=all

Regards
Steve
--
'Unless you go beyond what you have already mastered you will not
grow'
http://www.freeyourmind.info

Click to expand...

• First, customize your menu so the direct histogram is set to option A, B, or C for quick access (page 157 of ref. manual - Shortcut)

• Change the Dial to Custom 1 or 2 (page 150). This lets you adjust EV with the dial only (without having to press the EV button)

EJN said:

Good one, Steve. Brief and exactly to the point ...and
illustrative too - "a picture is worth...." etc
Jared's alternative (Histogram use) is valid but frankly I believe
it likely to be not as easy to follow by very many users..after
all...ask yourself, how many DO use the Histogram...and I think I'm
right in saying that it isn't even turned on by default, whereas
the AEL button is there for the asking

Click to expand...

Jared Hunter said:

I use the AEL button mainly for locking exposure while taking
panoramas.
What's important about direct histogram is that it is quick and easy:

• First, customize your menu so the direct histogram is set to

option A, B, or C for quick access (page 157 of ref. manual -
Shortcut)

• Change the Dial to Custom 1 or 2 (page 150). This lets you adjust

EV with the dial only (without having to press the EV button)

0. Turn on direct histogram
1. Shoot in aperture priority (generally f4 - 4.5 is sharpest)
2. Roll the thumbwheel until red rectangles are minimized if you're
avoiding blown highights and take the picture.

I really like being able to push the exposure to the limit without
going over as this is really important with digicams if you want to
minimize noise.

The only drawback to direct histogram is that you cannot overlay
the framing assist guide (tic-tac-toe lines) at the same time.

EJN said:

Good one, Steve. Brief and exactly to the point ...and
illustrative too - "a picture is worth...." etc
Jared's alternative (Histogram use) is valid but frankly I believe
it likely to be not as easy to follow by very many users..after
all...ask yourself, how many DO use the Histogram...and I think I'm
right in saying that it isn't even turned on by default, whereas
the AEL button is there for the asking

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

EJN said:

I'm not ashamed to say that I can find nothing invalid in this and
like your very clear and easy setup 'instruction'. To be further
honest, I guess I've just never taken time to find out HOW you
readily get the Histogram...and I bet there are many others who
would have to admitto the same sloppy mind. It IS good and I
shall certainly give it a better try-out as I can well see the ease
and effectiveness, once you set it up this way. Thanks for pushing
it.

--
EJN

Click to expand...

Jared Hunter said:

I use the AEL button mainly for locking exposure while taking
panoramas.
What's important about direct histogram is that it is quick and easy:

• First, customize your menu so the direct histogram is set to

option A, B, or C for quick access (page 157 of ref. manual -
Shortcut)

• Change the Dial to Custom 1 or 2 (page 150). This lets you adjust

EV with the dial only (without having to press the EV button)

0. Turn on direct histogram
1. Shoot in aperture priority (generally f4 - 4.5 is sharpest)
2. Roll the thumbwheel until red rectangles are minimized if you're
avoiding blown highights and take the picture.

I really like being able to push the exposure to the limit without
going over as this is really important with digicams if you want to
minimize noise.

The only drawback to direct histogram is that you cannot overlay
the framing assist guide (tic-tac-toe lines) at the same time.

EJN said:

Good one, Steve. Brief and exactly to the point ...and
illustrative too - "a picture is worth...." etc
Jared's alternative (Histogram use) is valid but frankly I believe
it likely to be not as easy to follow by very many users..after
all...ask yourself, how many DO use the Histogram...and I think I'm
right in saying that it isn't even turned on by default, whereas
the AEL button is there for the asking

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Steve Norton said:

OK a lot of people are getting confused about how to use
multi-metering mode on their C8080 so here's a little tutorial for
those who want to use it.

The first photo is taken with the usual ESP mode which is adequate
for about 75% of all shots. Some shots though need a bit more user
control to get the results you want and that's where the multi mode
comes in.

It's a lot to ask of your camera to be able to take perfect
exposures every time without your input. If it could there would be
no professional photographers as everybody would be a pro.

The shot below was taken in ESP mode and proved to much for the
camera this mode as the highlights are well blown and a lot of
detail is lost.



The next shot is taken by using the camera in multi-metering mode
where a person samples segments of a scene by using the AEL button
which is located on the front of the camera and pressing it upto 8
times at different portions of the scene.

Notice how the details on the left are now visible where as in ESP
mode they are blown.



The photo below shows the points that were metered. More points
could have been sampled but in this instance only 4 were needed.



Please try this technique yourself as you have a camera which is
quite advanced and it would be a bit of a waste not to stretch both
your own and cameras ability. See how far you can take this camera!

Some more examples of multi metering can be seen here:
http://www.pbase.com/stevieboroboy/c8080_shots&page=all

Regards
Steve
--
'Unless you go beyond what you have already mastered you will not
grow'
http://www.freeyourmind.info

Click to expand...

Moshe Ronen said:

I missed this thread when it started, but would like to add my
comments now, although it's late.

Multi-spot metering is nothing new with Olympus, I used it with the
OM-4, 15-20 years ago, and I must say it's not such a great
feature. You must be very careful about selecting the spots, due to
its simple averaging algorithm. If you take one spot in the shadows
and two in highlights, the highlights will have twice the weight,
and your exposure will be off. You must select pairs of spots which
will balance each other.

In the film era, there weren't many options, and this was one way
to assist in proper exposure. Today, histograms, and especially
'real time' histogram, are much better tools, as was pointed out by
other participants on this discussion. Also, examining the result
with its histogram immediately after the shot (which you couldn't
do with film) will tell you if you need to correct anything.

Moshe

Click to expand...

Adam Witkowski said:

Personally, I think that the best light metering has been executed
by Cadmium Sulphide cells before Silicon Photodiodes appear.CdS
photocells were "slow thinking" but much more resistant to hard
light condition like taking pictures of people under tree. Look,

Click to expand...