D70 goes IR - add your Infrared pictures to this thread

Thanks guys,

I wasn't sure if you meant ND filters or not. I'm not sure though about what you meant by a 1.000x one though. Could you clarify? Thanks in advance.
  • Peter
  • Peter
Also try some longtime exposures with grey filter (eg. 1.000x
grey). You will get stunning pictures!
Neutral Density filter (ND). Widely available in different
strengths. Also available are graduated ND filters for toning down
bright skies, but this can be done in PS as well with gradient
masks.
--
Brad Oaks
Pbase supporter
--
Cheers
Dirk
http://www.nzphoto.net - Panoramic New Zealand
http://www.pbase.com/nzphoto - Nikon D70 Galleries
 
This is what I needed ... a quick primer... I think I can go from here...
Thanks again.
As I am using a german PS version, my translation of menue entries
will possibly be wrong, but I'll give it a try.

In PS select menue entry "Picture" - "Settings" - "Channel Mixer"
If you can find something that sounds equal in english PS.

Now you see a window with a choice box for the channel ("red") and
three slides, one for each colour (red, green, blue).

In the "red" channel the slide for "red" is on 100%. Set it to 0%.
In the same channel set the "blue" channel (slide) from 0% to 100%.

In the "blue" channel the slide for "red" is on 0%. Set it to 100%.
In the same channel set the "blue" channel (slide) from 100% to 0%.

Now that's it. You shifted the channels.

If the picture is "too blue", reduce the lab luminosity for blue
and/or cyan. The appropriate window where to do this can be reached
by pressing "ctrl-u" In that window press "Ctrl-5" to get the blue
tones and move the "lab lumiosity" slide (last slide) to the left.

Hope this was detailed enought, otherwise I would suggest to get a
book or an online workshop for Photoshop.
--
Manny
FCAS Member - http://manny.org/FCAS
http://www.pbase.com/gonzalu/
 
WOW!! I was out all day today taking more shots. Sun not as BRIGHT as it could have been, but none the less, it was out. I thought the pictures were okay on the monitor because they were there... Do they have to look like yours look? Mine look predominantly RED. Yours, if indeed unprocessed, contain a lot of various colors, not just reds.

I used your technique today and I am still postprocessing using your tricks here. I have yet to find one picture that looks even close to one of yours :-). I used ISO 200, F8, 2" and sometimes compensated to get blurred effects on the water (like 4" at F10 etc.) Are you saying that even if the image comes out on the monitor it may still be underexposed? Does it have to look a certain way on the monitor BEFORE one does AUTO LEVELS? Mine always look RED or REDDISH

Dirk, you are one heck of a guy and a terrific mentor. Please stay with me as I am trying to become your best student LOL
Your english is much better than my german. All I know how to say is
Ein weiss bier bitte. Danke Shon! :-)
Cheers

P.S. I will post more pics tonight after postprocessing. My PC is VERY VERY SLOW as I only have 512 MB ram and having PS and NV open at once is a big no no...
The image is way too dark. This is why it is so grainy - completely
underexposed!

Do not use the metering. Use your camera in M Mode and playaround
until you have an acceptable result on the camera monitor.

Your setting have been:
ISO 800
Fstop 8
Exposure 1/20

Now, if you have a tripod your settings should have been:
ISO 200 (less grain)
Fstop 8
Exposure 1 - 2 seconds

Now I tried my best to save your picture, and this is what I did:

Nikon Capture 4.1:
Manual WB on "gray point" (don'T know if this is the correct
english expression)
Correct Exposure by +2 EV

Photoshop:
Auto Leveling
Channel Shift (as described before)
Color Reduction (0 Saturation) for:
Red Colours & Magenta
Resize and Sharpen

Result:


I have a feeling my subject needs improvement. This is because I
noticed that in my sample picture below, most of the subject is a
bunch of the same color and therefore no interest in the final IR
picture.

That aside, I have found a few interesting things.

-Even after your WB trick, I notice that if I take the color
temperature all the way down to 2200 K it improves my chances if
the original is not good enough. I assume after my tests, that you
need LOTS OF GREEN GRASS and the sun has to be VERY BRIGHT. My
image here I metered off the grass but the sun was weak and the
grass was very patchy and lots of dirt showed through
-The exposure is somewhat improtant, but not really. I was able to
work out a decent IR image in over exposed and underexposed shots
-Nikon is better than PS in processing raw IR images
-It must be OVERHEAD sunny right? This shot was taken when the sun
was about halfway between set and midday.
-I still don't know how to do the channel swap as you say. I found
an action on the internet that does this, I think, but I'd like to
know how to do it so I can control it myself :-)
I have attached the RAW NEF file as well to see if you can give me
further advice. Thank you sir.



RAW (big file, over 5MB)
http://manny.org/NTF/D70/tuckahoe-park-1.NEF
Thanks for your advice and help.

--
Manny
FCAS Member - http://manny.org/FCAS
http://www.pbase.com/gonzalu/
--
Cheers
Dirk
http://www.nzphoto.net - Panoramic New Zealand
http://www.pbase.com/nzphoto - Nikon D70 Galleries
--
Manny
FCAS Member - http://manny.org/FCAS
http://www.pbase.com/gonzalu/
 
In the original pics, even though I made the DUMB STUPID mistake of not chekcing my ISO (it was at 800) I did shoot in Manul mode

Also, when you say the WB trick... here is what I did.

-Put filter on the lens
-select a patch of very green, brightly lit grass. Point lens at it
-Go to menu, White Balance, Preset, Measure, Set.

Is this right? I notice that when I go to NC and select AUTO for WB, it gives the picture a really good kick... closer to your own incredible images ...

--
Manny
FCAS Member - http://manny.org/FCAS
http://www.pbase.com/gonzalu/
 
Here's a Phototshop CS Action I whipped up to automate the proccess
described earlier.

http://www.nefarious-240z.com/Pub/IR/IR.zip

It will do the Channel mixing, Auto-level, and then de-saturate the
Red and Magenta channels.
What filter, what camera settings, what light situation?
Looks to me as if it was too dark and/or as if the cameras WB was wrong.

I usually get these results on a cloudy day with a very dark IR filter (Wratten 87 C = Heliopan IR-830).

--
Cheers
Dirk
http://www.nzphoto.net - Panoramic New Zealand
http://www.pbase.com/nzphoto - Nikon D70 Galleries
 
Play around with the WB. Sometimes you will get great results with the green grass, somtimes better with auto WB and another possibility is to creat a red picture onyour monitor and do the WB on this (Go to menu, White Balance, Preset, Measure, Set).

The results really differ depending on WB AND intensity of the sunshine.

I do also assume that you are using the R72 (plese pardon if you mentioned before and I do not remember).

I will post another IR later that I took inside a pub with flash on ;-)

Cheers
Dirk

PS: if you can provide a camera RAW file I could take a look at it.
In the original pics, even though I made the DUMB STUPID mistake of
not chekcing my ISO (it was at 800) I did shoot in Manul mode

Also, when you say the WB trick... here is what I did.

-Put filter on the lens
-select a patch of very green, brightly lit grass. Point lens at it
-Go to menu, White Balance, Preset, Measure, Set.

Is this right? I notice that when I go to NC and select AUTO for
WB, it gives the picture a really good kick... closer to your own
incredible images ...

--
Manny
FCAS Member - http://manny.org/FCAS
http://www.pbase.com/gonzalu/
--
Cheers
Dirk
http://www.nzphoto.net - Panoramic New Zealand
http://www.pbase.com/nzphoto - Nikon D70 Galleries
 
Actually, yesterday... been spending the evening learning and post processing the images. I have learned IR all over again from Dirk who's patience shows in my improved images. Some of them worked best in BW as there were no differences in color to make it work [in] color. Here they are

















My sincere gratitude to Dirk and Roger for their expert advice, opinion, and sample imagery to get ideas from
Cheers
--
Manny
FCAS Member - http://manny.org/FCAS
http://www.pbase.com/gonzalu/
 
Yes, been following most of your tips pretty closely and then venturing off to get creative. You have been MOST helpful and I am beggining to get the idea of what works and what does not.
I am using Hoya R72 and also have an 87C (B+W 093)

I just posted some more shots i took today. You are welcome to the NEFs of any of them Just tell me the picture and I will make the NEF available for you
Thanks
--
Manny
FCAS Member - http://manny.org/FCAS
http://www.pbase.com/gonzalu/
 
Do you recognise why some work better in BW or have an overall blue or redcast (depending on WB and ChannelShift)?

The picture with the blue sky and the white ground was taken at a very sunny spot and nearly no shadow.

Those with little colour differences / blue or red cast have been taken in shadow or with an overcasted sky.

Now if you would like the following picture with blue sky and white landscape, this would easily be corrected in PS:



You would just desaturate the red and magenta colours and thats it.
My sincere gratitude to Dirk and Roger for their expert advice,
opinion, and sample imagery to get ideas from
Cheers
--
Manny
FCAS Member - http://manny.org/FCAS
http://www.pbase.com/gonzalu/
--
Cheers
Dirk
http://www.nzphoto.net - Panoramic New Zealand
http://www.pbase.com/nzphoto - Nikon D70 Galleries
 
Yes, I have learned A LOT in doing this... I notice that it is imperative to have LOTS OF EXPOSURE. Lots of sun bathing your subjects. Indeedd when there is shadow, we get red and dull.
I now need more subject matter and more tests.

But one thing I have to thank you most for is that ALL the shots I took yesterday (about 25 of them were IR) THEY ALL CAME OUT!!!!! :-)) all thanks to your advice.
will post the modified image as you suggested below here in a sec.
Thank you again Dirk for your generosity and skills...
The picture with the blue sky and the white ground was taken at a
very sunny spot and nearly no shadow.

Those with little colour differences / blue or red cast have been
taken in shadow or with an overcasted sky.

Now if you would like the following picture with blue sky and white
landscape, this would easily be corrected in PS:



You would just desaturate the red and magenta colours and thats it.
My sincere gratitude to Dirk and Roger for their expert advice,
opinion, and sample imagery to get ideas from
Cheers
--
Manny
FCAS Member - http://manny.org/FCAS
http://www.pbase.com/gonzalu/
--
Cheers
Dirk
http://www.nzphoto.net - Panoramic New Zealand
http://www.pbase.com/nzphoto - Nikon D70 Galleries
--
Manny
FCAS Member - http://manny.org/FCAS
http://www.pbase.com/gonzalu/
 
Hello all,

I am most likely getting a D70 and currently do a lot of IR so would like to also get at least one 58mm lens so that my stack of filters aren't completely worthless. Anyone know of a good wideangle lens that will take my filters? Thanks!

-pm
 
The following lenses are good and take that or smaller filters so you can make do with a step down ring
All these are Nikon of course :-)

24mm f/2.8D 52mm
28mm f/2.8D 52mm
35mm f/2D 52mm
Hello all,

I am most likely getting a D70 and currently do a lot of IR so
would like to also get at least one 58mm lens so that my stack of
filters aren't completely worthless. Anyone know of a good
wideangle lens that will take my filters? Thanks!

-pm
--
Manny
FCAS Member - http://manny.org/FCAS
http://www.pbase.com/gonzalu/
 
Hoya R72, I forget the rest. Those were just a couple images to show what my PSCS Action (using your technique) did.

Here's a few shots from today. Any idea what's causeing the discolorization in the center of the first two?



1/2 sec - F/8
Exposure Comp.: 0 EV
Sensitivity: ISO 200



1 sec - F/8
Exposure Comp.: 0 EV
Sensitivity: ISO 200



1 sec - F/8
Exposure Comp.: 0 EV
Sensitivity: ISO 200

--
http://www.nefarious-240z.com/gallery
 
your action will not PLAY in my PSCS :-( ???

When I click PLAY, it jusms to the container... but nothing
happens. Any ideas?

Thank you
--
Manny
FCAS Member - http://manny.org/FCAS
http://www.pbase.com/gonzalu/
I'm not sure what you mean by " jusms to the container," but I can't think of any reason why it would not work the way I described above. This is the first "action" the I've distributed, maybe I did something wrong. I guess you'll have to back to doing the adjustments manually, or maybe even record your own "action."

Thanks for nice comment on my pics. Do you have problems with discolorization in parts of your pictures like I pointed out in the first two of the three I posted above?
--
http://www.nefarious-240z.com/gallery
 
It just will no go through the action at all. It just sits there after I hit play! :-( ??? No expert here in action recording or playback..
I'm not sure what you mean by " jusms to the container," but I
can't think of any reason why it would not work the way I described
above. This is the first "action" the I've distributed, maybe I did
something wrong. I guess you'll have to back to doing the
adjustments manually, or maybe even record your own "action."
Yup, will do by hand for now... I hope to get your action working though. Too much work by hand
Thanks for nice comment on my pics. Do you have problems with
discolorization in parts of your pictures like I pointed out in the
first two of the three I posted above?
Nope... nothing... I do have it on my CP995. But maybe is because I use the hood and then put my hand or anything else over the lens to protect from lens flare. The kit lens is a magnet for it because of its construction. Any lens with exposed front elements is bound to have it. Try Color Burning the center of the image with a LARGE SOFT EDGE brush... low opacity... and be gentle. It works a lot of the time to correct these effects.

Cheers

--
Manny
FCAS Member - http://manny.org/FCAS
http://www.pbase.com/gonzalu/
 

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top