SB800

I wouldn't say crazy. But impatient, certainly !

Thierry
W Yeung
:)
will you consider adding the Nikon SB800 flash to your D70??

it is expensive at $350 but seemingley producing great results and
I understand all the flash features work iTTL with the D70

Check out the link for details

http://ww3.onecall.com/ModelSearch.htm

what other options will you consider?
--
Ufuoma Okoro
Pbase Supporter
http://www.pbase.com/ufookoro
CP5000, D70
--

TOF Guy
 
John,

I've bought a Sb800 at the same time as my D70. My reasoning was that I wanted the unit which can deliver as much light as possible. The only concern I had was that the SB800 may be too heavy or that the D70 would not be balanced with that flash (because somebody in the Nikon dslr forum made the comment that the Sb600 was designed for the D70, and only the two of them combined will be balanced and easy to hold. Total nonsense, as it turned out).

The sb800 is truly high rate performance. It does not feel heavy and works and feel great with the D70.

The beauty of its power is that in many scenes I'm way below the maximun light that the flash can offer. In these situations the flash recharges extremely quickly. Has to be seen to be believed. The bottom line is that a powerful flash such as the SB800 pays off, even when the SB600 would have been enough light wise.

Go for it !

Thierry
 
Freddy

I agree that Nikon's CLS is a great idea and being able to control the various proportions (if that is what you can do) from one location would be great. I found myself scurrying between various flashes to set and reset the flash exposures. However... the type of shoot where I personally would be using multiple flashes would normall involves unconventional lighting (e.g. a face against a black background) where one would never totally trust a light meter (or maybe I just don't have enough experience with spot metering). Hence I find the digital workflow of "shoot the picture, inspect it and change the manual settings" to be normal, and hence utilizing the SU4 manual arrangement isn't any more trouble. Of course if I had multiple SB800/600's I would prefer that. I must admit that 90% of my photography is walking around casual informals of people where the ability to have the i-TTL with my one SB800 to do the thinking for you is crucial because time is everything. I am quite happy with the entire system... and also that I don't have to throw away my 80DX & 50DX.
Jeff
 
We've actually taken a step BACKWARDS in flash technology. i-TTL is the first protocol that many have posted comes close to film TTL. My OM-2 in 1976 had off the film flash metering - it was a BIG deal then.

But the A mode on a good third-party flash has many drawbacks as well - it don't take into consideration lens angle, crop, etc - just a general survey of the situation.

We take this step back in flash performance in stride with a huge leap forward in exhisting light photography. low noise high ISO shots and color balance on the fly. You can't have everything.
With Film cameras. the TTL flash duration will be determined by
the amount of flash reflected off of the film DURING exposure when
the shutter is open. The cameras sensor does this. When this was
developed it was an advantage over regular Thryrister control with
the sensor on the flash because during that split second (1/125 of
a second when the shutter is open) the ambient light could change
to mess up your exposure.

With digital cameras, The CCD/CMOS sensor is not suited for
reflection of the light during exposure. This meand the camera has
to decide on the exposure before the shutter is open by way of
preflashes. if the situation changes while the shutter is open (as
might happen if the subject is not static and changes) this might
not be much better than Using A or AA mode and let the on flash
sensor do the evaluation. There is somewhat of a lag (up to .6 or a
second) befor the main flash fires.

Just a thought.

dave
If you're NOT going to purchase the 800 [or 600 when avail], you
shouldn't spend more than $100 on an alternative. I vote for the
Metz 36c2 - $70USD.

At present, the 800 and 600 are the only flash units, by anyone,
that offer i-TTL. So...the older TTL mode of ANY other flash will
not work. You will have to use any other flash in the "A" mode, so
spending money on fancy TTL features is a waste [at the time of
this writing].

Besides the Metz, you might consider the Vivitar 285hv and the
various inexpensive Sunpak models. IMO, the Metz comes closest in
appearance to a factory Nikon or Canon flash.

Performance? This was taken with a Metz 36c2 on a Nikon Coolpix
5000...

Camera set to Manual - 1/30 @ f5.6 iSO100
Flash set to Automatic - f5.6

http://206.168.119.7/~tfoto/PHOTOS%202003/source/tsk0303-08f.html

While this is a fine exposure, I should note that I don't get the
rock solid performance I got for 10+ years with a Nikon SLR/Nikon
Speedlight combination using TTL. The Nikon/Nikon combo used to
deliver 98% perfect exposures...the Nikon/Metz "A" combo drops to
75%. I will add, that the Nikon speedlight in "A" mode [rather than
TTL] delivers WORSE performance than the Metz. Almost 50% of those
shots were unusable.

So get a cheap Metz, Vivitar or Sunpack - OR - splurge on a 800/600
will you consider adding the Nikon SB800 flash to your D70??

it is expensive at $350 but seemingley producing great results and
I understand all the flash features work iTTL with the D70

Check out the link for details

http://ww3.onecall.com/ModelSearch.htm

what other options will you consider?
 
If I bought one SB-800 can it be used remotely with the internal flash sending the signal. In other words if I only have one SB-800 could I place it somewhere else in the room (not attached to the camera) and have it fire when I take pics???

Thanks!

-Steve
But after reading and experimenting with my sb800 on remote with my
builtin flash as commander, I am going to get at least one more
sb800. I figure I will get one and do some experimenting and if it
works as I hope than I will get still another. If not then I can
easily sell the second one If I want or probably keep it as a
backup. Because, whether I use them as wireless or not, The sb800
is a very good flash. It does a great job in iTTL or any other of
its mode. You have to get use to it and the D70s mode.

I have been searching the web for information on the sb800, and I
can't remember seeing one negative remark on it. And it does have
quite a bit of power and the batteries seem to last fairly well
also.

One of the problems with using the Sb800 and other flashes using a
optical slave or wireless trigger like the Pocker wizard is the
"pre flashes" These will most likely set off the triggers of the
remote lights prematurely. If you set the bultin flash on manual
and have it at low power and the remote flashes on manual then it
should all work fine

dave
I have never done multiple flash scenes before but I have been
thinking about it. I own an SB800, an SB80DX and an SB50dx (long
story). Seems to me that if you are going to use two or more
flashes you are probably going to want to set them empirically and
not rely on i-TTL. (For those experienced multiple flash shooters
is this correct?). If one does it manually (by taking test shots)
then isn't it just as easy to go completely manual and utilize SU4
control. That means I can use the onboard flash as the trigger
(and either use a low exposure on it or put block the direct light
if I don't want it to contribute to the scene) and then set my 800,
80dx, 50dx to remote manual modes? Hence is there really any
advantage of multiple i-TTL flashes (800,600)? Of course it is
crtical that I have the one SB800 for normal single flash
photography in order to take advantage of i-TTL (which works
great.... really great).
Jeff
 
slightly longer answer:

Yes, the flash from the D70 will trigger the SB800. The interesting thing is that the D70 onboard flash will not contribute to the exposure. Which can be good or bad depending on what you are looking for.
 
Any luck on Capture???

-Steve
slightly longer answer:
Yes, the flash from the D70 will trigger the SB800. The
interesting thing is that the D70 onboard flash will not contribute
to the exposure. Which can be good or bad depending on what you
are looking for.
 
I ran a test to see how much the light is diminished when light modifiers are used on the SB-800 flash. Test details:
1. Done outdoors after dark – so that bounced reflections are not present
2. Flash & camera (D70) set on Manual. Flash set to ½ output
3. Shutter speed 1/60
4. Sekonic L-358 flashmeter
5. Distance from flash to meter, about 12 ft.

6. Baseline, flash at zero degrees, no modifiers, f7.1. All the negative EVs shown below use this baseline.
7. One-third EV increments. .3 is one-third. .7 is two-thirds.

No modifier
0º, Baseline
45º, – 3.3 EV
90º, too low to measure

Wide-flash adapter
0º, – 1.3 EV
45º, – 1.7 EV
90º, too low to measure

Diffusion dome
0º, – 1.7 EV
45º, – 2.0 EV
90º, too low to measure

Wide-flash adapter & Diffusion dome
0º, – 2.7 EV
45º, – 2.3 EV
90º, – 4.3 EV

Bounce card
45º, – 2.7 EV
90º, – 4.3 EV

Wide-flash adapter & Bounce card
45º, – 1.3 EV
90º, – 4.0 EV

Diffusion dome & 8” x 8” white foamcore bounce card (held w/ rubber band)
90º, – 3.0 EV

Wide-flash adapter & 8” x 8” white foamcore bounce card (held w/ rubber band)
90º, – 3.0 EV

Note that this test did not measure the quality of light, just the quantity. Any light bounced from walls or ceiling will increase the lighting on the subject, but as Thom points out, also may impart an undesirable color cast.
 
slightly longer answer:
Yes, the flash from the D70 will trigger the SB800. The
interesting thing is that the D70 onboard flash will not contribute
to the exposure. Which can be good or bad depending on what you
are looking for.
1) if I have another SB800 on D70, will it activate the external SB800 wirelessly and also contribute to the exposure ?

2) if yes, can this set up activate an external SB600 (this saves me some money in getting another DS800)

W Yeung
 
1) if I have another SB800 on D70, will it activate the external
SB800 wirelessly and also contribute to the exposure ?
Yes, if you want it to.
2) if yes, can this set up activate an external SB600 (this saves
me some money in getting another DS800)
According to current literature and previews the answer is 'Yes'.

The SB-600 has most of the 800's features except that it's a little weaker, has no repeating mode, no modeling light, no sync socket and it does not come with filters nor a defusing dome. The problem is that the quotes some people have been getting seem to indicate that the savings are negligible.

Matt
--


http://www.pbase.com/deadpixel
 
Do we know what the price will be on the sb600.? I am going to get another sb800 maybe two more. I want all the power I can get. If i could get one more powerfull I would.

As for the feature set. It's my opinion that they just may have too many features on the sb800 already. They have tried to make it the flash for all cameras. Too much information overload.

I find it rather amusing that they have used this expression so many times in the sb800s manual.

"..Cameras compatable with CLS , digital SLRs not compatible with CLS, and cameras in Group I with a CPU lens...."

I know they have to distinguish the types of cameras, lens etc. but they have so many of them.

dave
 
With Film cameras. the TTL flash duration will be determined by
the amount of flash reflected off of the film DURING exposure when
the shutter is open.
In Standard TTL, yes, in Balanced Fill-Flash, sort of. Nikon used the during flash exposure calculation to second guess the preflash calculation.
The cameras sensor does this. When this was
developed it was an advantage over regular Thryrister control with
the sensor on the flash because during that split second (1/125 of
a second when the shutter is open) the ambient light could change
to mess up your exposure.
Not likely, actually. I've tried coming up with situations that fool preflash but not during-exposure calculations, and it's not easy. Moreover, note that the prime advantage during-exposure has is if MORE light is needed, not less. If the situation changed during the exposure to something that needed less light, you can't shut down the light already produced.
With digital cameras, The CCD/CMOS sensor is not suited for
reflection of the light during exposure. This meand the camera has
to decide on the exposure before the shutter is open by way of
preflashes. if the situation changes while the shutter is open (as
might happen if the subject is not static and changes) this might
not be much better than Using A or AA mode and let the on flash
sensor do the evaluation. There is somewhat of a lag (up to .6 or a
second) befor the main flash fires.
The lag isn't that long of a lag, though the I-TTL lag is longer than D-TTL. But the problem with Automatic flash modes is that the sensor on the flash doesn't see what the camera sees. Two classic situations mess up the flash doing the exposure work: (1) too close to a background (white walls are notorious); and (2) something nearer the camera that's in the flash sensor's view but not the camera's (shooting through doorways is the typical worst case).

--
Thom Hogan
author, Nikon Field Guide & Nikon Flash Guide
author, Complete Guides to the Nikon D100, D1, D1h, & D1x and Fujifilm S2
http://www.bythom.com
 
Thom when will your newest ebooks be ready? I enjoyed your one on the D100. Will you be having one each on the new flashes and the D70?

it looks like I am going to need some guidence using the sb800s and my D70 together on Wireless. I will get my second sb800 this next week and I think a third one most likely.

I certainly don't have it worked out on the settings of each now using the builtin as commander and the sb800 as remote. Hoping it will be more intuitive with a sb800 as Master.

dave
 

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