Best lens for macro picture (insect size like bees)

Still, I'd like to see Nikon come up with a lens similar to the
Canon MP-E 65mm, wouldn't you?
It's certainly a neat lens, but it's a bear to work with and I passed on buying one myself (I shoot Canon). I think it's Canon's slow-selling lens -- yet they still offer it for those who need it.

Brendan
--
Things that make you go, hmmmm...
 
I tried a Nikon 105... and even tho it is a micro lens... it would not auto-focus on anything too close... like a 1.5 feet or less it seemed... not to mention... it was slow and noisy. What is the new Tamron 180 like?

Is it like silent wave, fast focus? Anyone have details on it or a hint a cool micro lens?

thanks
 
It's almost impossible to have a fast-focusing macro lens. The distance the focusing motor has to move from infinity to the nearest focus point is so long that it'll always take a long time. The Sigma 180 is an HSM but is actually slower than the Tamron in that German test (if I remember correctly. It's a fabulous test, by the way).

Most people do true 1:1 focusing manually.

A roughly 100mm macro should be able to focus down to about 1'. The 200mm lenses should go to about 1.5'.

k.
I tried a Nikon 105... and even tho it is a micro lens... it would
not auto-focus on anything too close... like a 1.5 feet or less it
seemed... not to mention... it was slow and noisy. What is the new
Tamron 180 like?
Is it like silent wave, fast focus? Anyone have details on it or a
hint a cool micro lens?

thanks
--
http://www.pbase.com/romosoho (pbase supporter)
 
...couldn't it ? It's been shot anyway with the SP90, wich I prefer against of the 180 because ther is more DOF, and it's a lot more usable HANDHELD...



Fuji S2 Pro + Tamron SP90 - 1:125 @ f:11 - ISO 100 - handheld with flash SB-80DX as fill-in

Cheers,
Jean-Pierre
http://www.pbase.com/scherrer/s2
Equipment list in profile
 
Well, ignore the nikon 60mm and 105mm. Ignore the tamron 90mm.

All great lenses, but not enough working distance. Getting stung is not nice.

Either get Tamron/Sigma 180's (I've never used them) or the Nikon 200mm which I have used and is fantastic.

Here's a very old shot from the nikon 200mm with the nikon d1h at f/16.

http://www.gavincato.com/gallery/Macro/aan

cheers
Hi,
I'm looking for a afordable macro lense for a nikon D70.
I plan to take macros of insects like bees or buterfly.

Any advice ?

Thanks
 
I own the Sigma, which I bought after my 100 Canon proved too short for insects on my FILM camera.

With the 1.5x FOV crop, you might get away with a 105 Sigma or Nikon. A 90mm macro seems a little too short.

Last but not least, the 100 F3.5 Vivitar looks and feels like a toy, but it's less that $150 and takes amazingly good pictures.

A few other points (1) Plan on using F16 with a 90 to 105 lens and F22 for a 180 (2) Plan on using some sort of artificial light. I own and use a ringlight, but it gives very flat lighting. I'm moving slowly toward using a standard high-end shoe mounted flash. (3) Forget autofocusing. In fact, I focus a lot by my moving my body in and out. (4) You will get tired. Photographing fast-moving insects is WORK.

Hope that helps

--
Bob
 
...couldn't it ? It's been shot anyway with the SP90, wich I prefer
against of the 180 because ther is more DOF, and it's a lot more
usable HANDHELD...
Very nice shot. And I agree about the handheld use. But DOF is entirely determined by the f stop and macro ratio. At f11, framing the pic the same way, you would have had identical DOF with either the 90mm or the 180mm.

--
A cyberstalker told me not to post anymore...
So I'm posting even more!

Ciao!

Joe

http://www.swissarmyfork.com
 
I own the Sigma, which I bought after my 100 Canon proved too short
for insects on my FILM camera.

With the 1.5x FOV crop, you might get away with a 105 Sigma or
Nikon. A 90mm macro seems a little too short.
Would you believe the 105 Nikon and the 90mm Tamron have near identical working distance? The Nikno is 155mm from the lens front vs. 147mm for the Tamron.

Both lenses are variable focal length designs. In the process of focusing to 1:1, the Nikon changes forcal length from 105mm to 75mm. The Tamron goes from 90mm to 70mm.
Last but not least, the 100 F3.5 Vivitar looks and feels like a
toy, but it's less that $150 and takes amazingly good pictures.
I'll take your word on that. It makes sense, there are a lot of 100mm f4 designs that make good macros, an enlarger lens on a long helicoid would do it.

Does it go 1:1 with it's own helicoid, or just 1:2?
A few other points (1) Plan on using F16 with a 90 to 105 lens and
F22 for a 180 (2)
Why? At the same macro ratio and same f stop, you have the same DOF.
Plan on using some sort of artificial light. I
own and use a ringlight, but it gives very flat lighting. I'm
moving slowly toward using a standard high-end shoe mounted flash.
I only use ring light for some very specialized shots. Usually involving metal objects, bigger versions of things I would do with epi-illumination.
(3) Forget autofocusing. In fact, I focus a lot by my moving my
body in and out. (4) You will get tired. Photographing fast-moving
insects is WORK.
Amen to both these.

--
A cyberstalker told me not to post anymore...
So I'm posting even more!

Ciao!

Joe

http://www.swissarmyfork.com
 
Which is the minimum distance for Focus with the Tamron AF SP
90/2.8 MACRO 1:1 ø 55mm ?
The distance that matters is 147mm (just under 6 inches) from the front of the lens to your subject. The lens has a 290mm minimum focusing distance spec at 1:1. That's from the subject to the film plane (or sensor). The lens mount is 46mm in front of the sensor, and the lens length is 97mm. So that's 290 - 46 - 97 = 147mm.

--
A cyberstalker told me not to post anymore...
So I'm posting even more!

Ciao!

Joe

http://www.swissarmyfork.com
 
How important is a flash in macrowork ?

I got these options:

Buy a Tamron 90 DI + SB800/SB600

Or

Buy a Tamron 180 DI only

Its a hard choice becouse i dont know how fast i can save up
for a flash if i choose the later alternetive.
 
How important is a flash in macrowork ?
If you normally shoot outdoors in good lighting with a tripod you may not need a flash at all -- in fact I personally use flash only when absolutely necessary as I still prefer natural light and can, generally, tell a flash photo every time.

If you will be shooting without a tripod in poor light then obviously flash will be necessary, and it can, at times, punch up the subject.

Brendan
--
Things that make you go, hmmmm...
 
I dont think i will be using a tripod but the lighting will probably be good.
How important is a flash in macrowork ?
If you normally shoot outdoors in good lighting with a tripod you
may not need a flash at all -- in fact I personally use flash only
when absolutely necessary as I still prefer natural light and can,
generally, tell a flash photo every time.

If you will be shooting without a tripod in poor light then
obviously flash will be necessary, and it can, at times, punch up
the subject.

Brendan
--
Things that make you go, hmmmm...
 
Joe,

You make an excellent point - the distances I mentioned earlier are from the film plane. That's the spec'ed amount, so that's what I quoted, but obviously you have to account for the length of the lens, too.

Is the Tamron 97mm when extended all the way out for 1:1?

k.
Which is the minimum distance for Focus with the Tamron AF SP
90/2.8 MACRO 1:1 ø 55mm ?
The distance that matters is 147mm (just under 6 inches) from the
front of the lens to your subject. The lens has a 290mm minimum
focusing distance spec at 1:1. That's from the subject to the film
plane (or sensor). The lens mount is 46mm in front of the sensor,
and the lens length is 97mm. So that's 290 - 46 - 97 = 147mm.

--
A cyberstalker told me not to post anymore...
So I'm posting even more!

Ciao!

Joe

http://www.swissarmyfork.com
--
http://www.pbase.com/romosoho (pbase supporter)
 
You're thinking of using a 180mm macro lens at or near 1:1 without a tripod?

Wow.

I just did a series of tests with my Sigma 105, handheld, at f8 (and sometimes f5.6 when needed) with 400 speed film and barely got half my shots with any acceptable focus (ie - not nec. focused on the right spot, but at least part of the image was in focus). Of course I can still get better, but that's an even steeper learning curve with a 180mm lens.

k.
How important is a flash in macrowork ?
If you normally shoot outdoors in good lighting with a tripod you
may not need a flash at all -- in fact I personally use flash only
when absolutely necessary as I still prefer natural light and can,
generally, tell a flash photo every time.

If you will be shooting without a tripod in poor light then
obviously flash will be necessary, and it can, at times, punch up
the subject.

Brendan
--
Things that make you go, hmmmm...
--
http://www.pbase.com/romosoho (pbase supporter)
 
Did you use flash ?

Thanks
Wow.

I just did a series of tests with my Sigma 105, handheld, at f8
(and sometimes f5.6 when needed) with 400 speed film and barely got
half my shots with any acceptable focus (ie - not nec. focused on
the right spot, but at least part of the image was in focus). Of
course I can still get better, but that's an even steeper learning
curve with a 180mm lens.

k.
How important is a flash in macrowork ?
If you normally shoot outdoors in good lighting with a tripod you
may not need a flash at all -- in fact I personally use flash only
when absolutely necessary as I still prefer natural light and can,
generally, tell a flash photo every time.

If you will be shooting without a tripod in poor light then
obviously flash will be necessary, and it can, at times, punch up
the subject.

Brendan
--
Things that make you go, hmmmm...
--
http://www.pbase.com/romosoho (pbase supporter)
 

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