My remote control for my A1 (works for other Minolta's) (LONG!)

feenster

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Hi all,

Inspired by Peter's thread ( http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1024&message=8417298 ), I decided to build a remote control for my A1 today.

Basically, it consists of a hacked about PC CD-ROM audio cable, a switch, a button, some plastic and some wire. Its very simple to make. On the back of the A1 is the remote cord port (just below the Anti Shake hand button). You need to mess about with a plug on one end of the CD cable to get it to fit those three prongs you see.

For me, this entailed slicing off one of the sockets from the plug (mine had 4 sockets in a row instead of three) - this is easy done with a stanley knife. Then, you have to file, sand and cut the plug around so it fits the hole and the pins correctly. You also have to cut a V shaped groove between the second and third pin on the top of the plug to fit the shape of the cameras socket.

Once you've done this (and it is a fiddle), chop the plug off the other end of the cable, and strip the wires back a bit ready for soldering. It probably makes sense to work out now how youre going to mount the controls. For my prototype, I decided to use just a strip of plastic, but it would be better inside something like a Mini-DV cassette case. Now, ready for some more handywork - heres the schematic:



Here, 1 is the switch that you flick to activate the autofocus and 2 is the button you press to take the picture. This setup works quite well - you point your camera at what your after, flick the switch to focus, then press the button to take the picture. You have to remember to flick the switch back to its rest position afterwards or you wont be able to do much! If it would suit you better, you could replace the switch with a button - I thought it might be a bit too much trouble having to hold 2 buttons at a time ;)

Next - you need to mount your switch and button in whatever you want to hold them with. I used a flat piece of plastic. Now to connect the wires. Connect the C + F wires to the first and second pins on your switch. Connect the S wire to either pin of your button. Now all you need to do is run another bit of wire from one of the pins of your switch to the other pin of the button (this is the yellow wire in the schematic above).

Give it a test to make sure it works alright, then solder the connections (i had to cover the connections in hot glue from a glue gun to stop them touching together).

If youve done everything, you should now possess a nice remote control for your Minolta - total cost? About £2 at most!

Heres how mine ended up. I will be rehousing it into a better casing when I buy one, and perhaps adding a longer wire:



(The remote in all its glory)



(Side view - note the sloppy glue work ;)



(In hand - it fits the curl of my finger pretty well!)

Hope this has helped. Thanks to Peter for giving me the original idea. Its not hard folks honestly, if youve got the bits, give it a shot. Shouldnt take you more than 2 hours work.

Matt
 
hi,

i love posts like this, it shows great ingenuity and imagination and desire to make a functional product that minolta charge far too much for.

however, i seems like a long drawn out process, which requires good eye to hand coordination for the fiddely parts, use of soldering irons, and confidence in one's own abilities.

I'm basically too lazy

My own solution to getting a shutter release cable for my camera was to do a google search for 'used minolta rc-1000' which resulted in me buying a second hand one for £10.

also,correct me if i'm wrong, but i didn't notice a 'magnetic ring piece' attached round the cable, for some reason minolta recommend you fit this magnetic clip type thing to the shutter release cable to "reduce harmfull RF interference" as they put it in the manual.

but i think this only applies to the A2.

good luck with it.

rich
 
hi,
i love posts like this, it shows great ingenuity and imagination
and desire to make a functional product that minolta charge far too
much for.
Thanks guys - as mentioned, kudos to Peter for his original post.
however, i seems like a long drawn out process, which requires good
eye to hand coordination for the fiddely parts, use of soldering
irons, and confidence in one's own abilities.
I'm basically too lazy
I thought the same - im lazy too ;) The chance to save myself £50 quid or so was my motivation, plus, if you have the bits, its really not hard at all.
My own solution to getting a shutter release cable for my camera
was to do a google search for 'used minolta rc-1000' which resulted
in me buying a second hand one for £10.

also,correct me if i'm wrong, but i didn't notice a 'magnetic ring
piece' attached round the cable, for some reason minolta recommend
you fit this magnetic clip type thing to the shutter release cable
to "reduce harmfull RF interference" as they put it in the manual.
Hmm, no idea what this is for to be honest - although it has given me another thought. Glueing a magnet onto the back of the casing of the remote would be nice - that way, i could attach it to my tripod easily.

Hope some more people can make use of this post. If you do, post up your comments and pictures of your remotes :)

Matt
 
hi,

just looked it up. might be of some use to you?

its called a 'ferrite core' and for some reason minolta specify in the A2 manual that it should be attached to the cable to prevent harmfull interference and it should be attached at the camera end of the cable

they even supplied it in the A2 box and its the right size to fit round their branded shutter release cable.

this is all the information that is provided in the manual.

rich
 
just looked it up. might be of some use to you?

its called a 'ferrite core' and for some reason minolta specify in
the A2 manual that it should be attached to the cable to prevent
harmfull interference and it should be attached at the camera end
of the cable

they even supplied it in the A2 box and its the right size to fit
round their branded shutter release cable.

this is all the information that is provided in the manual.
Thats great cheers - i found the one in my A1 box. It works great as a cable tidy for my sloppy wiring too.

Matt
 
also,correct me if i'm wrong, but i didn't notice a 'magnetic ring
piece' attached round the cable, for some reason minolta recommend
you fit this magnetic clip type thing to the shutter release cable
to "reduce harmfull RF interference" as they put it in the manual.
The thing you are talking about is a ferrite bead/ring. It is just to prevent the camera radiating any RF and interfering with poorly designed/shielded electronic equipment nearby. It doesn't have any function for the camera itself.

--
Peter
 
I went to my spare computer cable parts box and found an even easier solution for the cable. A "wake on LAN" cable is a 3 pin connector that fits perfectly with about 5 seconds of work and a sharp blade. This is a cable that comes with most network interface cards for computers. It is made to go from the card to the motherboard and is not used in 99% of the installations I do. (I do computers for a living) 2 weeks ago I was cleaning shop and threw away about 200 of these cables, now I find a use for them. go figure.
Rick

--
Dimage X, Dimage Xt, Dimage A2
 
..............and 9 out of 10 dentists approve!



Took about 10 minutes. Made from junk i had laying around. I can tuck the wire inside when it's not in use and its very portable.
Thanks for the info. I love this forum.
Rick
--
Dimage X, Dimage Xt, Dimage A2
 
..............and 9 out of 10 dentists approve!



Took about 10 minutes. Made from junk i had laying around. I can
tuck the wire inside when it's not in use and its very portable.
Thanks for the info. I love this forum.
Rick, thats brilliant! I can see it now: a whole range of novelty Minolta remote controls! Who's going to be the first to build theirs into a small champagne bottle or something?

Ill have to keep an eye out for the Wake-On-Lan cable - I dont think ive ever got one (ive built 5 or 6 PC's in the past). Can you get different lengths?

Matt
 
I went to my spare computer cable parts box and found an even
easier solution for the cable. A "wake on LAN" cable is a 3 pin
connector that fits perfectly with about 5 seconds of work and a
sharp blade.
I have a buch of those somewhere... Must dig them out, obviously this is what they were made for :-)

--
Peter
 
Great work.

Just a thought, but how would a spring loaded "toggle" switch go in place of the focus switch. In Matt's layout I think it would be quite easy to press the 'focus' button with the thumb, then the 'expose' button. Then you only have to release both buttons to reset or take next picture, without having to switch the focus button 'off'.

Haven't made one yet for my A1 but I think it's getting close.
Hi all,
Inspired by Peter's thread

( http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1024&message=8417298 ), I decided to build a remote control for my A1 today.

Basically, it consists of a hacked about PC CD-ROM audio cable, a
switch, a button, some plastic and some wire. Its very simple to
make. On the back of the A1 is the remote cord port (just below the
Anti Shake hand button). You need to mess about with a plug on one
end of the CD cable to get it to fit those three prongs you see.

For me, this entailed slicing off one of the sockets from the plug
(mine had 4 sockets in a row instead of three) - this is easy done
with a stanley knife. Then, you have to file, sand and cut the plug
around so it fits the hole and the pins correctly. You also have to
cut a V shaped groove between the second and third pin on the top
of the plug to fit the shape of the cameras socket.

Once you've done this (and it is a fiddle), chop the plug off the
other end of the cable, and strip the wires back a bit ready for
soldering. It probably makes sense to work out now how youre going
to mount the controls. For my prototype, I decided to use just a
strip of plastic, but it would be better inside something like a
Mini-DV cassette case. Now, ready for some more handywork - heres
the schematic:



Here, 1 is the switch that you flick to activate the autofocus and
2 is the button you press to take the picture. This setup works
quite well - you point your camera at what your after, flick the
switch to focus, then press the button to take the picture. You
have to remember to flick the switch back to its rest position
afterwards or you wont be able to do much! If it would suit you
better, you could replace the switch with a button - I thought it
might be a bit too much trouble having to hold 2 buttons at a time
;)

Next - you need to mount your switch and button in whatever you
want to hold them with. I used a flat piece of plastic. Now to
connect the wires. Connect the C + F wires to the first and second
pins on your switch. Connect the S wire to either pin of your
button. Now all you need to do is run another bit of wire from one
of the pins of your switch to the other pin of the button (this is
the yellow wire in the schematic above).

Give it a test to make sure it works alright, then solder the
connections (i had to cover the connections in hot glue from a glue
gun to stop them touching together).

If youve done everything, you should now possess a nice remote
control for your Minolta - total cost? About £2 at most!

Heres how mine ended up. I will be rehousing it into a better
casing when I buy one, and perhaps adding a longer wire:



(The remote in all its glory)



(Side view - note the sloppy glue work ;)



(In hand - it fits the curl of my finger pretty well!)

Hope this has helped. Thanks to Peter for giving me the original
idea. Its not hard folks honestly, if youve got the bits, give it a
shot. Shouldnt take you more than 2 hours work.

Matt
--
OZGJ
 
Great work.

Just a thought, but how would a spring loaded "toggle" switch go in
place of the focus switch. In Matt's layout I think it would be
quite easy to press the 'focus' button with the thumb, then the
'expose' button.
I thought that was the go too, but all the momentary action switches I had or found in electronic shops had quite a stiff spring and a small toggle.

They seemed like they were too stiff and uncomfortable to use as you suggest. There are larger, more deluxe momentary toggles with flattened, longer toggles. I couldn't use them as they didn't fit my intended case.

Since I put my two switches together as I did so that my thumb could operate them in sequence easily (a late design change when I tried various positions) I have thought more about monetary toggles, I think it is well worth trying one of the softer action ones if it will fit in your case.

--
Peter
 
Just a thought, but how would a spring loaded "toggle" switch go in
place of the focus switch. In Matt's layout I think it would be
quite easy to press the 'focus' button with the thumb, then the
'expose' button. Then you only have to release both buttons to
reset or take next picture, without having to switch the focus
button 'off'.

Haven't made one yet for my A1 but I think it's getting close.
I would be tempted in my revised version (that im starting to collect bits for), to use a 2 button layout. I have found myself forgetting that the autofocus switch is on after ive taken a picture - this means I have to flick the switch back and forth if I want to recompose. I would therefore, try and use a 2 button layout - i think it makes more sense (unfortunately, i didnt have two buttons!).

Ive just started looking for a decent casing for my new remote, and came across this:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/products/module.asp?CartID=040417124108345&moduleno=25101&Products=2

You can get a 2 button version. It would take some nifty soldering work, but it would look great :) I think I may also put on a button that connects all three pins at once (this would be of use when you take a picture, instant review pops up, then you press the shutter to cancel it). Im not sure though.

Matt
 
Hi all,
Inspired by Peter's thread

( http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1024&message=8417298 ), I decided to build a remote control for my A1 today.

Hi Matt,

Well done. I like the detail in your post so that we can all understand.

However, isn't your wiring diagram slightly wrong? Shouldn't the common cable be common to both switches? The way you have shown it, the push button switch will connect S and F rather than S and C. Shouldn't you run the yellow wire to the push button switch from the toggle switch blue wire instead?
--
Cheers from Adelaide



http://www.pbase.com/john_down_under for my galleries
http://www.pbase.com/mtf_foto_studies for Minolta FAx, Faces & Challenges
 
However, isn't your wiring diagram slightly wrong? Shouldn't the
common cable be common to both switches? The way you have shown
it, the push button switch will connect S and F rather than S and C.
Shouldn't you run the yellow wire to the push button switch from
the toggle switch blue wire instead?
Technically you are correct, however, the way the camera works it doesn't really matter. When I made one up a few months ago I found that you have to have C and F connected when you connect C and S. Nothing happens when you connect C and S without C and F connected. Same goes for connecting F and S without C.

Steve
 
Hi Matt,

Well done. I like the detail in your post so that we can all
understand.

However, isn't your wiring diagram slightly wrong? Shouldn't the
common cable be common to both switches? The way you have shown it,
the push button switch will connect S and F rather than S and C.
Shouldn't you run the yellow wire to the push button switch from
the toggle switch blue wire instead?
John, thanks for your comments. The way this works is, the switch would need to be flicked (to focus the camera), then the button could be pressed to take the picture.

Flicking the switch connects Common and Focus. When the button is pressed, the yellow wire effectively connects Common and Focus joint together to the pin of the push button. Then, when the push button is pushed, the Shutter wire is connected - hence all 3 wires get pushed together at once.

I hope that makes sense - it does work fine as it is, but I can see what you were questioning John.

Matt
 
Hi Matt,

Well done. I like the detail in your post so that we can all
understand.

However, isn't your wiring diagram slightly wrong? Shouldn't the
common cable be common to both switches? The way you have shown it,
the push button switch will connect S and F rather than S and C.
Shouldn't you run the yellow wire to the push button switch from
the toggle switch blue wire instead?
John, thanks for your comments. The way this works is, the switch
would need to be flicked (to focus the camera), then the button
could be pressed to take the picture.

Flicking the switch connects Common and Focus. When the button is
pressed, the yellow wire effectively connects Common and Focus
joint together to the pin of the push button. Then, when the push
button is pushed, the Shutter wire is connected - hence all 3 wires
get pushed together at once.

I hope that makes sense - it does work fine as it is, but I can see
what you were questioning John.

Matt
Of course you are right about the collective C and F being connected to the shutter pushbutton when you already have the focus toggle switch on. However, I am not sure how the camera signals work, so what happens if you want to use manual focus instead? Should that allow you to press shutter without having to press focus first? If so, your diagram would not work as common would not be provided to the shutter pushbutton, but it is quite possible that the camera does not even work that way and my comment is irrelevant. I just don't know.

Does that all make sense to you?
--
Cheers from Adelaide



http://www.pbase.com/john_down_under for my galleries
http://www.pbase.com/mtf_foto_studies for Minolta FAx, Faces & Challenges
 
Of course you are right about the collective C and F being
connected to the shutter pushbutton when you already have the focus
toggle switch on. However, I am not sure how the camera signals
work, so what happens if you want to use manual focus instead?
Should that allow you to press shutter without having to press
focus first? If so, your diagram would not work as common would not
be provided to the shutter pushbutton, but it is quite possible
that the camera does not even work that way and my comment is
irrelevant. I just don't know.

Does that all make sense to you?
I think so! With regards to manual focus - you simply focus using the ring as normal, flick the switch and press the button - flicking the switch here does nothing, but is required for to trip the shutter with the circuit design. Therefore you are right - it would make more sense to have the wire common to both controls.

I think in my revised version, i will have 3 buttons - autofocus, shutter and shutter/autofocus combined. This would get round the problem you mention (and the combined button is useful for example for exiting a quick review).

Matt
 

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