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Check the Hot pixel
- Thread starter mocca
- Start date
Joseph
Senior Member
Those numbers I quoted beside the ISO numbers are number of hot pixels under 1/2 shutter speed and with the hot pixel threshold set to 30 (I actually have the dead pixel threshold set to 200 instead of 250).
Thanks for the info anyway!
Nikon Coolpix 4500
Nikon D70
Nikon FG
Thanks for the info anyway!
--
Nikon Coolpix 4500
Nikon D70
Nikon FG
Ron Milton
Well-known member
So I jumped strait to the chase.
Shutter speed 10 sec
-------------------------------
ISO1600: 0 hot pixels
Shutter speed 10 sec
-------------------------------
ISO1600: 0 hot pixels
Jeff Madison
Well-known member
Keith_Edwards
Active member
Turn off in camera sharpening and any curves you may have loaded. I was mega worried because I kept getting scores of well over 4000 at ISO 1600. When I set the camera with no sharpening and normal tone curve etc. etc I get 8 HOT Pixels.
PHEW!!!!
Keith
PHEW!!!!
Keith
DikkieDick
Forum Enthusiast
I had it at 3.8, because my lense didn't want to go to 3.5. Well in my first test with the Tokina 28-70:2,8 I could but with the Cosina 19-35:3,5-4,5 it didn't work that way, so my test was Cosina at 19mm, with aperture 3.8.
Time 1/2 second.
ISO200 : 9 hot pixels (X=1629-1632, Y=983-986)
For an image
These 9 pixels show up in different tests I took. As you can see it's a red dot. First I though maybe some light gets through the lens cap, but with another lens the same pixels.
ISO400: 13 hot pixels (X=1628-1631, Y=982-985)
ISO800: 15 hot pxiels (same as ISO400 but now also 2412,73 and 1235,1987)
ISO1600: 3 hot pixels (same as ISO400 added with the 2412,73, the other disappeared and now 1332,1691 and 1449,14).
Well the 3 ones are noise I guess. I could only easily find the 1449,14 and it's a bit brighter than the surroundings.
Just tried it also at a shutterspeed of 1/250 at ISO200.
Nothing to be found fortunately.
Gave it another try at other shutterspeeds:
At 1/6 second the number of hot pixels is 5.
At 1/10 it's only : 1631,984 and at 1/20 it's 0.
But still is it a defective or not? As I can see I don't have to worry that much unless I won't to take night shots with long exposure.
Greetings, ****
http://pluim004.speed.planet.nl/fotografie/d70-gallery.html
Did you take it as NEF and then convert it to TIFF later? The reported numbers of hot pixels might be caused by the interpolation from JPG from the surrounding pixels. Otherwise, one hot pixels is not too bad really.I had it at 3.8, because my lense didn't want to go to 3.5. Well in
my first test with the Tokina 28-70:2,8 I could but with the Cosina
19-35:3,5-4,5 it didn't work that way, so my test was Cosina at
19mm, with aperture 3.8.
Time 1/2 second.
ISO200 : 9 hot pixels (X=1629-1632, Y=983-986)
For an image
These 9 pixels show up in different tests I took. As you can see
it's a red dot. First I though maybe some light gets through the
lens cap, but with another lens the same pixels.
ISO400: 13 hot pixels (X=1628-1631, Y=982-985)
ISO800: 15 hot pxiels (same as ISO400 but now also 2412,73 and
1235,1987)
ISO1600: 3 hot pixels (same as ISO400 added with the 2412,73, the
other disappeared and now 1332,1691 and 1449,14).
Well the 3 ones are noise I guess. I could only easily find the
1449,14 and it's a bit brighter than the surroundings.
Just tried it also at a shutterspeed of 1/250 at ISO200.
Nothing to be found fortunately.
Gave it another try at other shutterspeeds:
At 1/6 second the number of hot pixels is 5.
At 1/10 it's only : 1631,984 and at 1/20 it's 0.
But still is it a defective or not? As I can see I don't have to
worry that much unless I won't to take night shots with long
exposure.
Greetings, ****
http://pluim004.speed.planet.nl/fotografie/d70-gallery.html
Mocca
Grrrr. what happen to my brain today. I meant to say JPG compression artifact, not interpolation.
Mocca
DikkieDick
Forum Enthusiast
Well, I tested it with a NEF and it also showed up at the same spot unfortunately. That's why I just posted this JPG, which is not too large (is the full fine JPG-large).'
I'm afraid I will only have problems with this when I shoot nightshots, which I don't do that often and afterwards removing the pixel(s) isn't too much of a hassle I guess.
Greetings, ****
http://pluim004.speed.planet.nl/fotografie/d70-gallery.html
If it doesn't bother you, don't worry about it. You can get it map out from Nikon later.
Mocca
Jeff Madison
Well-known member
Isn't in-camera sharpening only applied if you're shooting in JPG? I thought this setting (along with tone, hue, WB, etc.) were ignored when shooting in NEF because you apply those setting later in Nikon Capture (or CS or wherever).
I've been getting around 4,000 hot pixels at ISO1600, too (see my earlier post). I think I had sharpening set to +1, and when I get home I'll re-do the test with no sharpening just in case. If that doesn't help, I'm going to be very alarmed indeed!
I've been getting around 4,000 hot pixels at ISO1600, too (see my earlier post). I think I had sharpening set to +1, and when I get home I'll re-do the test with no sharpening just in case. If that doesn't help, I'm going to be very alarmed indeed!
DikkieDick
Forum Enthusiast
Mocca,
Greetings, ****
http://pluim004.speed.planet.nl/fotografie/d70-gallery.html
I won't actually. But it's a pity it happened with my cam. I had also the colorshift. Did some testing this afternoon. It was slightly noticable at 1/8000.
What do you mean by your last sentence?
Greetings, ****
http://pluim004.speed.planet.nl/fotografie/d70-gallery.html
As long as your camera is in warranty, Nikon will map out the hot pixels for you. But it will take about 1-2 weeks (or probably more though). If you live close to a service center, you can even stop by the service center nad have them do it. It will be faster that way.
Mocca
brock121199
Senior Member
I'm still waiting for delivery, so I can't perform the test - yet. However, I can say that a test I did with a C5050 using RAW and it showed there was a difference in saturation/contrast/sharpening with different settings (-5,0,+5 on each).
Paul
Paul
Han Leentvaar
New member
Shutter speed 1/2sec
-------------------------------
ISO200: 0 hot pixels
ISO400: 1 hot pixel
ISO800: 4 hot pixels
ISO1600: 7 hot pixels
--------------------------------
Han Leentvaar
-------------------------------
ISO200: 0 hot pixels
ISO400: 1 hot pixel
ISO800: 4 hot pixels
ISO1600: 7 hot pixels
--------------------------------
Han Leentvaar
Jeff Madison
Well-known member
After setting Sharpening to -2, Tone to 0 (was -1 last time), Saturation to 0 (was +), and WB to Auto (was Flash), I now get these results:
ISO 200: 1
ISO 400: 2
ISO 800: 7
ISO 1600: 19
This is way better than 4,058, but since most people are getting between 0 and 4 for ISO1600, I'm still wondering if my camera is so far below average that I should exchange it.
What would you do?
ISO 200: 1
ISO 400: 2
ISO 800: 7
ISO 1600: 19
This is way better than 4,058, but since most people are getting between 0 and 4 for ISO1600, I'm still wondering if my camera is so far below average that I should exchange it.
What would you do?
Keith_Edwards
Active member
Jeff,
since you have to convert the RAW file to TIFF format for the programme to work, whichever software you use to do that takes the associated information from the in camera settings and applies them. So if you sharpen in camera and open the file in NC the sharpening is applied by NC unless you reset the sharpening in the NC menu. If you open in PS then the RAW file is accepted with all the changes the camera made. I would try once again but with sharpening at NONE and Tone at 0.
I also checked my images because that's where it really matters. I have a definate clump of 5 HOT Pixels in the shape of a cross. In normal images they are completely invisible, i.e. they take on the colour of their surroundings. Even in images where there is black around them they take on the black colour. i.e. they act as they should. It is only when the exposure goes into the seconds that they come into play, and even then they are not visible to the naked eye, even printed at A4.
Having said all of that though, I think that if you are worried you should exchange the camera. After all they're not cheap and you should have something that you are happy with.
Cheers
Keith
since you have to convert the RAW file to TIFF format for the programme to work, whichever software you use to do that takes the associated information from the in camera settings and applies them. So if you sharpen in camera and open the file in NC the sharpening is applied by NC unless you reset the sharpening in the NC menu. If you open in PS then the RAW file is accepted with all the changes the camera made. I would try once again but with sharpening at NONE and Tone at 0.
I also checked my images because that's where it really matters. I have a definate clump of 5 HOT Pixels in the shape of a cross. In normal images they are completely invisible, i.e. they take on the colour of their surroundings. Even in images where there is black around them they take on the black colour. i.e. they act as they should. It is only when the exposure goes into the seconds that they come into play, and even then they are not visible to the naked eye, even printed at A4.
Having said all of that though, I think that if you are worried you should exchange the camera. After all they're not cheap and you should have something that you are happy with.
Cheers
Keith
DikkieDick
Forum Enthusiast
Thanx. Hmmm... I'm not that close to a service center (200km). And the shop I bought it here in the Netherlands has its own warranty. I don't have the Inca-warranty in one way or another. Well, I can give it a try at this shop. See how they can manage it, but I'm afraid I will be without the camera for ages, and that is something I don't want.
If the mapping out isn't that expensive I can always take a ride to the service center. Well, I'll see what I do. For the moment I'm not having too much of a problem with it. Better wait until more problems show up and do some things at once.
Thanx again.
Greetings, ****
http://pluim004.speed.planet.nl/fotografie/d70-gallery.html
Nikon will map out the hot pixels for free if it is in warranty. If you have warranty with the shop that you bought it from (not sure how warranty works in EU), they should be able to arrange it to be mapped out by Nikon for you. Good luck.
Mocca
Mocca
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