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Primes on 14n (red blob)

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Hi bart, there is normally a bit of magenta blooming around the shining and overexposed areas, especially reflecting objects. For my experience this is a bit typical of Kodak sensor in general. For this specific problem, the new version of 14n is already an improvement from the one I used 10 months ago.

The magenta blooming in reflecting overexposed object shows up also with Canon cameras (10D or 1Ds) but very seldomly.

Of my primes only the 85 1.8 is perfect.

The 50mm 1.8, apart for the red blob, which I do not consider a problem at all, because it shows up only in very unfair light condition under which I would not work, It is still a bit dirty in some occasions. Of course the problems with my 50mm are visible only in front of a white or gray walls and it is not on detailed pictures, but that is a bit tricky.
The 60mm micro AF non D is almost anusable, i would consider it only for BW.
I have a 70-210 af wich is excellent, not problem at all.

Andrea.
bartP said:
After some more testing, I've found that all my primes easily
generate the red blob at all apertures staring 2.8, so I won't be
using them anymore. What I was controlling in an earlier post about
the red blob, was in fact a reddish glare. In high contrast images
this appears around white parts, but that isn't the same as that
round red blob in the middle. I've read Mastriannis post about not
being able to get the red blob in sight, and I belive that,
shooting the 24-85 AFS. I've been using the Tamron 28-75 now and
this lens has no problems at all at any aperture. Makes me even
consider going for a DLSRn, since Gene McCluney hasn't had problems
either with it shooting that camera body. For the rest the 14n is
unbelieveable. Wow, this camera has grown with the firmware
upgrades!
Click to expand...
 
Hey Andrea and all,

I have to give an update on my findings. My latest tests show no (more) red blobs in the 24mm and 35 mm, so, they seem safe to be used in all situations. Both 50mm and 85 mm are still very bad to my taste. There is no occasion where a red blob doesn't occur. I've found a great way to check the red blob: just push the bin button and the screen goes darker and red blobs show up more easily. For me it's very hard to get rid of this red blob software wise in a way I can live with. On a 1.7x and 2x convertor, both primes work great though. No blobs at all. So, I'm now able to shoot at all preferred focal lenghts without red blob fear. (BTW, Mastrianni's 24mm is from the 24-85mm if I'not mistaken. Thanks for your insight on the magenta blooming and all your other shared info.
Vriendelijke groeten,
Bart
andrea buso said:
Of my primes only the 85 1.8 is perfect.
The 50mm 1.8, apart for the red blob, which I do not consider a
problem at all, because it shows up only in very unfair light
condition under which I would not work, It is still a bit dirty in
some occasions. Of course the problems with my 50mm are visible
only in front of a white or gray walls and it is not on detailed
pictures, but that is a bit tricky.
The 60mm micro AF non D is almost anusable, i would consider it
only for BW.
I have a 70-210 af wich is excellent, not problem at all.

Andrea.
bartP said:
After some more testing, I've found that all my primes easily
generate the red blob at all apertures staring 2.8, so I won't be
using them anymore. What I was controlling in an earlier post about
the red blob, was in fact a reddish glare. In high contrast images
this appears around white parts, but that isn't the same as that
round red blob in the middle. I've read Mastriannis post about not
being able to get the red blob in sight, and I belive that,
shooting the 24-85 AFS. I've been using the Tamron 28-75 now and
this lens has no problems at all at any aperture. Makes me even
consider going for a DLSRn, since Gene McCluney hasn't had problems
either with it shooting that camera body. For the rest the 14n is
unbelieveable. Wow, this camera has grown with the firmware
upgrades!
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
I'm afraid I can't certify this spot as red blob offically. ;o)) The red blob always shows up in the very middle of the frame. Anyway this is a situation one better can stay away from if you don't like it. Digitals in general are a bit tough with very bright subjects such as the sun. Makes me think how to prevent this myself in such a situation. Hey Warren, post some more of this lens, I bet it is awesome.
Groeten Bart
Warren Sarle said:
Beware of shooting the sun:
http://www.warrensarle.com/kodak/Sigma-Nikon.html
Click to expand...
 
MarkLe said:
those are the best red blobs ever!
finally a red blob that is worth the name and the fame :)
Click to expand...
I think this is my best red blob: http://www.warrensarle.com/kodak/jpg/12-24 (12)Sigma-f4.5-5.6(f5.6)-RedSpot.jpg

This one is also interesting: http://www.warrensarle.com/kodak/jpg/12-24 (12)Sigma-f4.5-5.6(f6.7)-RedBlob.jpg

I just got the Sigma two days ago, so I haven't had time to do any serious shooting with it, but so far I like it better than the 14/2.8 and 20/2.8 Nikkors.

I used to have a manual focus 18mm Nikkor, but I got tired of the 14n's meter not working, and traded in the 18mm on the 14mm and 20mm Nikkor's, which was the dumbest thing I've done in a long time. I've taken lots of sun photos with the 18mm and never got a red blob, although sometimes there was some magenta blooming and lens flare, of course. For example:



(you can tell I haven't retouched this because it has dust spots).
 
bartP said:
Hey Warren, post some more of this lens, I bet it is awesome.
Click to expand...
I'm very impressed by it. I just wish I had Jono's landscapes to photograph instead of parking lots. :-) And the security guards throw me out of the parking lots. :-(

Go to this folder: http://www.warrensarle.com/kodak/jpg/
and click on: 12-24Sigma-Dogwood.jpg

This is full frame, 100% magnification, about 2.5 megabytes at medium JPEG quality. It was taken at ISO 80, 1/30sec, f16. There is a little motion blur from the wind, and a flare spot on the right side. The flare was mild enough that I didn't notice it in the viewfinder. If it had been bad enough for me to see it, I could have shaded the lens with my other hand!
 
That's a very nice pic Warren.

I'm always positively surprised after I have seen a noise reducted jpeg full size and then at print size. Kodak has had a lot of comment on it's JPEG files, but man this looks good at print size. (What part of "Kodak 14 mp was not supposed to be a great jpeg camera" I did not understand?) Everything seems to fall in it's place and appears crisp and never oversharpened. I've experiented with ERI myself, but didn't see the noise reduction artefacts in those files. Could be a good reason to shoot ERI.

Thanks Warren, you don't need Jono's landscapes, you are doing quite well surrounded by parking lots!
Groeten,
Bart
Warren Sarle said:
bartP said:
Hey Warren, post some more of this lens, I bet it is awesome.
Click to expand...
I'm very impressed by it. I just wish I had Jono's landscapes to
photograph instead of parking lots. :-) And the security guards
throw me out of the parking lots. :-(

Go to this folder: http://www.warrensarle.com/kodak/jpg/
and click on: 12-24Sigma-Dogwood.jpg

This is full frame, 100% magnification, about 2.5 megabytes at
medium JPEG quality. It was taken at ISO 80, 1/30sec, f16. There is
a little motion blur from the wind, and a flare spot on the right
side. The flare was mild enough that I didn't notice it in the
viewfinder. If it had been bad enough for me to see it, I could
have shaded the lens with my other hand!
Click to expand...
 
Hi Warren, thanks for posting them.

I was wondering about your 60mm micro lense. Which model is it and the lens setting you used.
On my 14n with the 60mm AF micro non D, I cannot get such a clean shot.

Thanks. Andrea.
Warren Sarle said:
bartP said:
Hey Warren, post some more of this lens, I bet it is awesome.
Click to expand...
I'm very impressed by it. I just wish I had Jono's landscapes to
photograph instead of parking lots. :-) And the security guards
throw me out of the parking lots. :-(

Go to this folder: http://www.warrensarle.com/kodak/jpg/
and click on: 12-24Sigma-Dogwood.jpg

This is full frame, 100% magnification, about 2.5 megabytes at
medium JPEG quality. It was taken at ISO 80, 1/30sec, f16. There is
a little motion blur from the wind, and a flare spot on the right
side. The flare was mild enough that I didn't notice it in the
viewfinder. If it had been bad enough for me to see it, I could
have shaded the lens with my other hand!
Click to expand...
 
andrea buso said:
I was wondering about your 60mm micro lense. Which model is it and
the lens setting you used.
On my 14n with the 60mm AF micro non D, I cannot get such a clean
shot.
Click to expand...
60mm f/2.8 AF-D Micro Nikkor. I bought it a few months ago, shortly after I bought the 14n, because my old 55mm Micro was such a nuisance to use with no metering on the 14n. Now the big problem is that I must remember to set the lens type to 3 for the 60 Micro, otherwise the magenta/green/yellow/blue shift is terrible. I prefer to shoot at f/16, but f/11 or f/8 are good if I don't need so much depth of field. f/22 is a little soft, and f/32 is very soft. The autofocus on the 14n is not very good, and my eyesight is not much better, so I usually take 2 or 3 shots, refocusing for each one. At high magnifications I bracket the focusing. When I manage to do everything right, the photos are spectacularly sharp! This is why I put up with all the defects of the 14n instead of selling it.
 
Thanks.

Mini is a non D. That is why even with Type 3 I still get shifts. Type 3 is the best for mine as well in any case.

Hopefully the coming firmware will help, because this is a wonderfull lens I like to use.

I found the 14n AF not bad at all so far, even the capability of focusing under low modeling lights in studio has been quite good on a shoot I did yesterday.

Thanks.
Andrea.
Warren Sarle said:
andrea buso said:
I was wondering about your 60mm micro lense. Which model is it and
the lens setting you used.
On my 14n with the 60mm AF micro non D, I cannot get such a clean
shot.
Click to expand...
60mm f/2.8 AF-D Micro Nikkor. I bought it a few months ago, shortly
after I bought the 14n, because my old 55mm Micro was such a
nuisance to use with no metering on the 14n. Now the big problem is
that I must remember to set the lens type to 3 for the 60 Micro,
otherwise the magenta/green/yellow/blue shift is terrible. I prefer
to shoot at f/16, but f/11 or f/8 are good if I don't need so much
depth of field. f/22 is a little soft, and f/32 is very soft. The
autofocus on the 14n is not very good, and my eyesight is not much
better, so I usually take 2 or 3 shots, refocusing for each one. At
high magnifications I bracket the focusing. When I manage to do
everything right, the photos are spectacularly sharp! This is why I
put up with all the defects of the 14n instead of selling it.
Click to expand...
 
Warren, just in case: even with bad eyes, a wrong diopter setting makes things worse. My AF/MF hit went to 100 percent after setting the diopter right. (Put the cap on the lens en see in the viewfinder if you can see your readout "in focus".
Groeten,
Bart
Warren Sarle said:
andrea buso said:
I was wondering about your 60mm micro lense. Which model is it and
the lens setting you used.
On my 14n with the 60mm AF micro non D, I cannot get such a clean
shot.
Click to expand...
60mm f/2.8 AF-D Micro Nikkor. I bought it a few months ago, shortly
after I bought the 14n, because my old 55mm Micro was such a
nuisance to use with no metering on the 14n. Now the big problem is
that I must remember to set the lens type to 3 for the 60 Micro,
otherwise the magenta/green/yellow/blue shift is terrible. I prefer
to shoot at f/16, but f/11 or f/8 are good if I don't need so much
depth of field. f/22 is a little soft, and f/32 is very soft. The
autofocus on the 14n is not very good, and my eyesight is not much
better, so I usually take 2 or 3 shots, refocusing for each one. At
high magnifications I bracket the focusing. When I manage to do
everything right, the photos are spectacularly sharp! This is why I
put up with all the defects of the 14n instead of selling it.
Click to expand...
 
bartP said:
Warren, just in case: even with bad eyes, a wrong diopter setting
makes things worse. My AF/MF hit went to 100 percent after setting
the diopter right. (Put the cap on the lens en see in the
viewfinder if you can see your readout "in focus".
Click to expand...
Thanks, but what I really need is a setting in between the click stops.
 
I agree. Maybe there is an add on lens by Nikon with the right in between setting? My ideal setting would also be somewhere next to my current setting, but I can manage with the current one.
Warren Sarle said:
bartP said:
Warren, just in case: even with bad eyes, a wrong diopter setting
makes things worse. My AF/MF hit went to 100 percent after setting
the diopter right. (Put the cap on the lens en see in the
viewfinder if you can see your readout "in focus".
Click to expand...
Thanks, but what I really need is a setting in between the click
stops.
Click to expand...
 
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