My 70-200 f4L backfocuses, what can i do?

I just ordered EF 70-200mm/f4L two days ago, and it is on its way
to my home. I am wondering what is the best (may be just the
easiest) way to test the lens to see if it is normal.

Any help on how to test this lens will be appreciated. But simple
less time consuming method is prefered, since I am still learning
the rope,

--- wuchou.

--
Shooting at rulers or flat test charts held at an angle does not
always work consistently. The AF points in the camera cover a much
wider area than that represented by a single line on a ruler or
test chart. You need a good high-contrast target for the AF point.
The best target is a flat surface at 90 degrees to the camera wide
enough to give the camera's focus point a solid target with good
contrast and good lighting - then the AF system should give
consistent results.

Using a small AF target like a line on a ruler or test chart is why
most of these 70-200 lenses backfocus at 70mm and less so at 200mm
or even work ok at 200mm. At 70mm you have low magnification and
the AF system sees a small target so the system misses and
generally backfocuses. At 200mm you have much more magnification
and the target line is more distinct and the AF system gets better
contrast and will generally focus better. Oly's lens was the
opposite (better at lower end) and the image jumped in the
viewfinder which is weird and probably indicates a real problem.

Check out this webpage:

http://www.hkdotnet.com/FrancisPhotographyChannel/AF_Test/index.htm

You can also look at my test target which works well. I have since
made a bigger test chart with a wider center target that works even
better and gives very consistent results with all my lenses:

http://www.pbase.com/wrwood/test_images

Another good method is to line up 7 coke cans or something similar
in a straight line and shoot at the middle can from a 45 degree
angle. This also gives the AF point a good solid target and will
immediately show you misfocusing.

Another critical test in my opinion is to shoot at text to be sure
the lens focuses consistently up/down and left/right all the way
across the entire image. Find a big poster or open a good quality
magazine full width and attach it to a flat board. Shoot at 90
degrees to the camera. The text should be equally sharp top/bottom
and left/right. I had one 70-200L that showed blurry text on the
left 1/3 of the image. This problem is very hard to see in real
life photos because you can miss it thinking the blur is due to the
DOF.

On all tests shoot off a solid tripod in good light, preferrably
outside. Poor lighting will also produce inconsistent results.
One test is not enough to conclude that your lens is defective.
Test several times in different lighting.

Regards,

Bill Wood
Fountain Hills, AZ
Mine would jump after the second time i would half press the shutter, if i focused on something far away and then something close it wouldn't always jump, but if i refocused on the close object twice it would jump as if to say, hey i'm allready focused on that stupid! Just wanted to make that clear. I didn't pull mine out of the box and go straight to testing it either, used it for a week off and on, it wasn't untill the straight on shots of the daisy shooting on a tripod in good light that i decided to test it.
--
http://www.pbase.com/paulyoly/root

 
I just ordered EF 70-200mm/f4L two days ago, and it is on its way
to my home. I am wondering what is the best (may be just the
easiest) way to test the lens to see if it is normal.

Any help on how to test this lens will be appreciated. But simple
less time consuming method is prefered, since I am still learning
the rope,

--- wuchou.
Mine would jump after the second time i would half press the
shutter, if i focused on something far away and then something
close it wouldn't always jump, but if i refocused on the close
object twice it would jump as if to say, hey i'm allready focused
on that stupid! Just wanted to make that clear. I didn't pull
mine out of the box and go straight to testing it either, used it
for a week off and on, it wasn't untill the straight on shots of
the daisy shooting on a tripod in good light that i decided to test
it.
--
Paul makes another good point. If your camera/lens performs well in real life shots it is probably fine. Some folks read about focus problems on these forums then test a perfectly good camera/lens which fails the test because the test setup is faulty in some way and not because there is anything wrong with the camera or lens.

Paul's situation is different; he is highly experienced and noticed a problem in his regular shots - then he tested. And we can see from his PBase site that Paul definitely knows how to obtain perfect focus and thus can differentiate between user error and an equipment problem.

Regards,

Bill Wood
Fountain Hills, AZ
 
I posted five shots of an easy focus test using 5 spice jars in a straight line shot at 45 degrees to the camera using a 24-70L lens on a 10D:

http://www.pbase.com/wrwood/test_images&page=all

I think this is one of the fastest, easiest tests to show whether your lens/camera is focusing correctly. According to Canon's website and Lenswork book proper focus puts the target within the DOF with about 1/3 of the DOF in front of the target and about 2/3s of the DOF behind the target. Obviously as you place the camera closer and closer to the target the DOF gets smaller and this effect becomes more difficult to see.

I lined up 5 jars and placed the camera on a tripod at a 45 degree angle to the line of jars, auto focused on the center jar using only the center focus point and shot from about 3', then 2.5' and finally at 2' and the results are as expected. The center jar is always in focus and, at the longer distances, there is more DOF to the rear of the target than to the front. This holds true for the shots at 70mm, 51mm and 24mm. All shots were wide open at f/2.8

Regards,

Bill Wood
Fountain Hills, AZ
 
Bill,

Thanks so much for the help. I got my new EF 70-200mm/f4L lens today. The lens was made in 2002, two years ago in Japan. I am not sure if this is normal for new lens purchase.

Your jar test is a wonderful idea. I did it right away. So far, I haven't seen the back focusing problem with this lens. But it maybe just to early to say, since it is in my hand for less than three hours.

----wuchou.
I just ordered EF 70-200mm/f4L two days ago, and it is on its way
to my home. I am wondering what is the best (may be just the
easiest) way to test the lens to see if it is normal.

Any help on how to test this lens will be appreciated. But simple
less time consuming method is prefered, since I am still learning
the rope,

--- wuchou.

--
Shooting at rulers or flat test charts held at an angle does not
always work consistently. The AF points in the camera cover a much
wider area than that represented by a single line on a ruler or
test chart. You need a good high-contrast target for the AF point.
The best target is a flat surface at 90 degrees to the camera wide
enough to give the camera's focus point a solid target with good
contrast and good lighting - then the AF system should give
consistent results.

Using a small AF target like a line on a ruler or test chart is why
most of these 70-200 lenses backfocus at 70mm and less so at 200mm
or even work ok at 200mm. At 70mm you have low magnification and
the AF system sees a small target so the system misses and
generally backfocuses. At 200mm you have much more magnification
and the target line is more distinct and the AF system gets better
contrast and will generally focus better. Oly's lens was the
opposite (better at lower end) and the image jumped in the
viewfinder which is weird and probably indicates a real problem.

Check out this webpage:

http://www.hkdotnet.com/FrancisPhotographyChannel/AF_Test/index.htm

You can also look at my test target which works well. I have since
made a bigger test chart with a wider center target that works even
better and gives very consistent results with all my lenses:

http://www.pbase.com/wrwood/test_images

Another good method is to line up 7 coke cans or something similar
in a straight line and shoot at the middle can from a 45 degree
angle. This also gives the AF point a good solid target and will
immediately show you misfocusing.

Another critical test in my opinion is to shoot at text to be sure
the lens focuses consistently up/down and left/right all the way
across the entire image. Find a big poster or open a good quality
magazine full width and attach it to a flat board. Shoot at 90
degrees to the camera. The text should be equally sharp top/bottom
and left/right. I had one 70-200L that showed blurry text on the
left 1/3 of the image. This problem is very hard to see in real
life photos because you can miss it thinking the blur is due to the
DOF.

On all tests shoot off a solid tripod in good light, preferrably
outside. Poor lighting will also produce inconsistent results.
One test is not enough to conclude that your lens is defective.
Test several times in different lighting.

Regards,

Bill Wood
Fountain Hills, AZ
 
wu,

How did you find out that lens was made in 2002?

I finally received my 70-200 4L, run AF test and shoot about 100 pictures in "real life" conditions - the lens is backfocusing really badly. I'm going to send it for replacement - I don't believe it's going to help, but I'll try one more time.

Alex
Thanks so much for the help. I got my new EF 70-200mm/f4L lens
today. The lens was made in 2002, two years ago in Japan. I am not
sure if this is normal for new lens purchase.

Your jar test is a wonderful idea. I did it right away. So far, I
haven't seen the back focusing problem with this lens. But it maybe
just to early to say, since it is in my hand for less than three
hours.

----wuchou.
I just ordered EF 70-200mm/f4L two days ago, and it is on its way
to my home. I am wondering what is the best (may be just the
easiest) way to test the lens to see if it is normal.

Any help on how to test this lens will be appreciated. But simple
less time consuming method is prefered, since I am still learning
the rope,

--- wuchou.

--
Shooting at rulers or flat test charts held at an angle does not
always work consistently. The AF points in the camera cover a much
wider area than that represented by a single line on a ruler or
test chart. You need a good high-contrast target for the AF point.
The best target is a flat surface at 90 degrees to the camera wide
enough to give the camera's focus point a solid target with good
contrast and good lighting - then the AF system should give
consistent results.

Using a small AF target like a line on a ruler or test chart is why
most of these 70-200 lenses backfocus at 70mm and less so at 200mm
or even work ok at 200mm. At 70mm you have low magnification and
the AF system sees a small target so the system misses and
generally backfocuses. At 200mm you have much more magnification
and the target line is more distinct and the AF system gets better
contrast and will generally focus better. Oly's lens was the
opposite (better at lower end) and the image jumped in the
viewfinder which is weird and probably indicates a real problem.

Check out this webpage:

http://www.hkdotnet.com/FrancisPhotographyChannel/AF_Test/index.htm

You can also look at my test target which works well. I have since
made a bigger test chart with a wider center target that works even
better and gives very consistent results with all my lenses:

http://www.pbase.com/wrwood/test_images

Another good method is to line up 7 coke cans or something similar
in a straight line and shoot at the middle can from a 45 degree
angle. This also gives the AF point a good solid target and will
immediately show you misfocusing.

Another critical test in my opinion is to shoot at text to be sure
the lens focuses consistently up/down and left/right all the way
across the entire image. Find a big poster or open a good quality
magazine full width and attach it to a flat board. Shoot at 90
degrees to the camera. The text should be equally sharp top/bottom
and left/right. I had one 70-200L that showed blurry text on the
left 1/3 of the image. This problem is very hard to see in real
life photos because you can miss it thinking the blur is due to the
DOF.

On all tests shoot off a solid tripod in good light, preferrably
outside. Poor lighting will also produce inconsistent results.
One test is not enough to conclude that your lens is defective.
Test several times in different lighting.

Regards,

Bill Wood
Fountain Hills, AZ
 
Alex,

Sad to hear you have a copy which is back focus, but don't worried, send to your local Canon center, tell them to adjust for you about the back focus of this lens. (need to give them sometime, maybe few days)

When I have this lens, I also encounter back focus problem, is very up set with this kind of situation, but that lens can be fixed! Don't send back to seller, their are useless, their will only replacement another lens from their store room and give to you, time wasting.!

My 4L is working very good now, no back focus problem, no front focus problem, just have the problem to stop using it!
How did you find out that lens was made in 2002?

I finally received my 70-200 4L, run AF test and shoot about 100
pictures in "real life" conditions - the lens is backfocusing
really badly. I'm going to send it for replacement - I don't
believe it's going to help, but I'll try one more time.

Alex
Thanks so much for the help. I got my new EF 70-200mm/f4L lens
today. The lens was made in 2002, two years ago in Japan. I am not
sure if this is normal for new lens purchase.

Your jar test is a wonderful idea. I did it right away. So far, I
haven't seen the back focusing problem with this lens. But it maybe
just to early to say, since it is in my hand for less than three
hours.

----wuchou.
I just ordered EF 70-200mm/f4L two days ago, and it is on its way
to my home. I am wondering what is the best (may be just the
easiest) way to test the lens to see if it is normal.

Any help on how to test this lens will be appreciated. But simple
less time consuming method is prefered, since I am still learning
the rope,

--- wuchou.

--
Shooting at rulers or flat test charts held at an angle does not
always work consistently. The AF points in the camera cover a much
wider area than that represented by a single line on a ruler or
test chart. You need a good high-contrast target for the AF point.
The best target is a flat surface at 90 degrees to the camera wide
enough to give the camera's focus point a solid target with good
contrast and good lighting - then the AF system should give
consistent results.

Using a small AF target like a line on a ruler or test chart is why
most of these 70-200 lenses backfocus at 70mm and less so at 200mm
or even work ok at 200mm. At 70mm you have low magnification and
the AF system sees a small target so the system misses and
generally backfocuses. At 200mm you have much more magnification
and the target line is more distinct and the AF system gets better
contrast and will generally focus better. Oly's lens was the
opposite (better at lower end) and the image jumped in the
viewfinder which is weird and probably indicates a real problem.

Check out this webpage:

http://www.hkdotnet.com/FrancisPhotographyChannel/AF_Test/index.htm

You can also look at my test target which works well. I have since
made a bigger test chart with a wider center target that works even
better and gives very consistent results with all my lenses:

http://www.pbase.com/wrwood/test_images

Another good method is to line up 7 coke cans or something similar
in a straight line and shoot at the middle can from a 45 degree
angle. This also gives the AF point a good solid target and will
immediately show you misfocusing.

Another critical test in my opinion is to shoot at text to be sure
the lens focuses consistently up/down and left/right all the way
across the entire image. Find a big poster or open a good quality
magazine full width and attach it to a flat board. Shoot at 90
degrees to the camera. The text should be equally sharp top/bottom
and left/right. I had one 70-200L that showed blurry text on the
left 1/3 of the image. This problem is very hard to see in real
life photos because you can miss it thinking the blur is due to the
DOF.

On all tests shoot off a solid tripod in good light, preferrably
outside. Poor lighting will also produce inconsistent results.
One test is not enough to conclude that your lens is defective.
Test several times in different lighting.

Regards,

Bill Wood
Fountain Hills, AZ
 
I'll try one more time - I have a stupid theory - I think if you buy an expensive lens from internet store - they'll send you the previously returned (by someone) lens. If you send it back for the replacement - they will (may be) send you a new lens (which may be a good copy).

All lenses I bought and keep are "second copy".

And again - what's the point to buy $600 lens and then send it to Canon for the adjustment immediately (and pay on top of the price a shipment to Canon)? And usually Canon requesting to send a camera with lens for the adjustment - I don't want to be w/o camera for 2-3 weeks and I don't want to get back the "adjusted body" which does not focus correctly with the rest of my lenses:)

I paid my money and I'm expecting to get a good copy. If it's not true I may try as many times as I want (as long as the store is reimbursing the shipment charges and does not refuse to continue this game with me). I checked out and I have email from J&R - they are going to reimburse the shipment charges for the defective lens.
So I think I'll try at least once - hope I'm receiving a good copy :)

Alex
My 4L is working very good now, no back focus problem, no front
focus problem, just have the problem to stop using it!
How did you find out that lens was made in 2002?

I finally received my 70-200 4L, run AF test and shoot about 100
pictures in "real life" conditions - the lens is backfocusing
really badly. I'm going to send it for replacement - I don't
believe it's going to help, but I'll try one more time.

Alex
Bill,

Thanks so much for the help. I got my new EF 70-200mm/f4L lens
today. The lens was made in 2002, two years ago in Japan. I am not
sure if this is normal for new lens purchase.

Your jar test is a wonderful idea. I did it right away. So far, I
haven't seen the back focusing problem with this lens. But it maybe
just to early to say, since it is in my hand for less than three
hours.

----wuchou.
 
I may be wrong here. I got the impression from the lens manual that printed " @CANON INC, 2002". The lens box also seems on the shelf for some time, again this is speculation. The lens is marked "made in Japan". The lens body is painted with yellow-gray color paint. It doesn't look like very polished from the outside. I saw a picture of this lense in white color, which is better than mine. There must be a date mark on when it is produced, but I haven't found it.

Here are my first indoor shot of EF70-200mm/f4L with flash
http://www.pbase.com/image/27658318

and an outdoor flower shot (windy)
http://www.pbase.com/image/27653037

By the way, you might consider to send the lens to Canon Service Center to repair, and the problem should be fixable. I will consider that, since this is the only L- zoom lens that weighs below 2lbs.

-- wuchou.
How did you find out that lens was made in 2002?

I finally received my 70-200 4L, run AF test and shoot about 100
pictures in "real life" conditions - the lens is backfocusing
really badly. I'm going to send it for replacement - I don't
believe it's going to help, but I'll try one more time.

Alex
Thanks so much for the help. I got my new EF 70-200mm/f4L lens
today. The lens was made in 2002, two years ago in Japan. I am not
sure if this is normal for new lens purchase.

Your jar test is a wonderful idea. I did it right away. So far, I
haven't seen the back focusing problem with this lens. But it maybe
just to early to say, since it is in my hand for less than three
hours.

----wuchou.
I just ordered EF 70-200mm/f4L two days ago, and it is on its way
to my home. I am wondering what is the best (may be just the
easiest) way to test the lens to see if it is normal.

Any help on how to test this lens will be appreciated. But simple
less time consuming method is prefered, since I am still learning
the rope,

--- wuchou.

--
Shooting at rulers or flat test charts held at an angle does not
always work consistently. The AF points in the camera cover a much
wider area than that represented by a single line on a ruler or
test chart. You need a good high-contrast target for the AF point.
The best target is a flat surface at 90 degrees to the camera wide
enough to give the camera's focus point a solid target with good
contrast and good lighting - then the AF system should give
consistent results.

Using a small AF target like a line on a ruler or test chart is why
most of these 70-200 lenses backfocus at 70mm and less so at 200mm
or even work ok at 200mm. At 70mm you have low magnification and
the AF system sees a small target so the system misses and
generally backfocuses. At 200mm you have much more magnification
and the target line is more distinct and the AF system gets better
contrast and will generally focus better. Oly's lens was the
opposite (better at lower end) and the image jumped in the
viewfinder which is weird and probably indicates a real problem.

Check out this webpage:

http://www.hkdotnet.com/FrancisPhotographyChannel/AF_Test/index.htm

You can also look at my test target which works well. I have since
made a bigger test chart with a wider center target that works even
better and gives very consistent results with all my lenses:

http://www.pbase.com/wrwood/test_images

Another good method is to line up 7 coke cans or something similar
in a straight line and shoot at the middle can from a 45 degree
angle. This also gives the AF point a good solid target and will
immediately show you misfocusing.

Another critical test in my opinion is to shoot at text to be sure
the lens focuses consistently up/down and left/right all the way
across the entire image. Find a big poster or open a good quality
magazine full width and attach it to a flat board. Shoot at 90
degrees to the camera. The text should be equally sharp top/bottom
and left/right. I had one 70-200L that showed blurry text on the
left 1/3 of the image. This problem is very hard to see in real
life photos because you can miss it thinking the blur is due to the
DOF.

On all tests shoot off a solid tripod in good light, preferrably
outside. Poor lighting will also produce inconsistent results.
One test is not enough to conclude that your lens is defective.
Test several times in different lighting.

Regards,

Bill Wood
Fountain Hills, AZ
 
If you have decided to send back to the seller instead of Canon, I think you will properly get a back focusing copy lens again(90%), cos it is not the camera body have problem, and it also not the lens it self have problem, but when you put this lens and 300D/10D together, it cos problem!

Remember both lens and camera have no problem, you just need a expert to adjust the lens back focusing for you, that's it. If you have others Canon film body, you may try to take some shoot, I believe the pictures come out of that camera will be very accurate in focus.
Post to seller 3weeks to return and may get a back focus copy again.
Post to Canon 3 weeks, it adjusted, ready to shoot!
So which one you choose?
All lenses I bought and keep are "second copy".

And again - what's the point to buy $600 lens and then send it to
Canon for the adjustment immediately (and pay on top of the price a
shipment to Canon)? And usually Canon requesting to send a camera
with lens for the adjustment - I don't want to be w/o camera for
2-3 weeks and I don't want to get back the "adjusted body" which
does not focus correctly with the rest of my lenses:)

I paid my money and I'm expecting to get a good copy. If it's not
true I may try as many times as I want (as long as the store is
reimbursing the shipment charges and does not refuse to continue
this game with me). I checked out and I have email from J&R - they
are going to reimburse the shipment charges for the defective lens.
So I think I'll try at least once - hope I'm receiving a good copy :)

Alex
My 4L is working very good now, no back focus problem, no front
focus problem, just have the problem to stop using it!
How did you find out that lens was made in 2002?

I finally received my 70-200 4L, run AF test and shoot about 100
pictures in "real life" conditions - the lens is backfocusing
really badly. I'm going to send it for replacement - I don't
believe it's going to help, but I'll try one more time.

Alex
Bill,

Thanks so much for the help. I got my new EF 70-200mm/f4L lens
today. The lens was made in 2002, two years ago in Japan. I am not
sure if this is normal for new lens purchase.

Your jar test is a wonderful idea. I did it right away. So far, I
haven't seen the back focusing problem with this lens. But it maybe
just to early to say, since it is in my hand for less than three
hours.

----wuchou.
 
I may be wrong here. I got the impression from the lens manual that
printed " @CANON INC, 2002". The lens box also seems on the shelf
for some time, again this is speculation. The lens is marked "made
in Japan". The lens body is painted with yellow-gray color paint.
It doesn't look like very polished from the outside. I saw a
picture of this lense in white color, which is better than mine.
There must be a date mark on when it is produced, but I haven't
found it.

Here are my first indoor shot of EF70-200mm/f4L with flash
http://www.pbase.com/image/27658318

and an outdoor flower shot (windy)
http://www.pbase.com/image/27653037

By the way, you might consider to send the lens to Canon Service
Center to repair, and the problem should be fixable. I will
consider that, since this is the only L- zoom lens that weighs
below 2lbs.

-- wuchou.
Wuchou,

Your pictures are terrific. The focus looks perfect.

My 70-200/2.8L is not white either - some kind of gray with a speckle paint finish, not smooth. I have never seen a really white lens so I assume your color is the same as mine which is normal.

The manual date is not what you use for date of manufacture, my new lens manual says the same thing - 2000. The serial number is the only thing that would tell you anything but I don't know the code. Don't worry too much about exactly when it was made. As long as it looks like the current model shown on Canon's webpage you have a new lens. What counts most is how it works and yours certainly looks good!

Regards

Bill Wood
 
Weew, I'll try one more copy - J&R is sending me prepaid UPS label - so it's free for me.

If the second one is backfocusing - I'll refund it and I'll order from somewhere else (where it's cheaper - let's say from 17th street) and if that copy is back focusing again - than I'll send it to Canon (huh).

But may be by the time I receive the second copy I'll change my mind and buy let's say Sigma 70-200f/2.8 :)

Thanks for your reply - I fill the same about 300D+70-200F/4L combination - just wondering if 10D is back focusing with that lens also.

Alex
All lenses I bought and keep are "second copy".

And again - what's the point to buy $600 lens and then send it to
Canon for the adjustment immediately (and pay on top of the price a
shipment to Canon)? And usually Canon requesting to send a camera
with lens for the adjustment - I don't want to be w/o camera for
2-3 weeks and I don't want to get back the "adjusted body" which
does not focus correctly with the rest of my lenses:)

I paid my money and I'm expecting to get a good copy. If it's not
true I may try as many times as I want (as long as the store is
reimbursing the shipment charges and does not refuse to continue
this game with me). I checked out and I have email from J&R - they
are going to reimburse the shipment charges for the defective lens.
So I think I'll try at least once - hope I'm receiving a good copy :)

Alex
My 4L is working very good now, no back focus problem, no front
focus problem, just have the problem to stop using it!
How did you find out that lens was made in 2002?

I finally received my 70-200 4L, run AF test and shoot about 100
pictures in "real life" conditions - the lens is backfocusing
really badly. I'm going to send it for replacement - I don't
believe it's going to help, but I'll try one more time.

Alex
Bill,

Thanks so much for the help. I got my new EF 70-200mm/f4L lens
today. The lens was made in 2002, two years ago in Japan. I am not
sure if this is normal for new lens purchase.

Your jar test is a wonderful idea. I did it right away. So far, I
haven't seen the back focusing problem with this lens. But it maybe
just to early to say, since it is in my hand for less than three
hours.

----wuchou.
 
Well after getting consistently blurry pics of flowers at 200mm and
not at say 135mm i decided to test it using a focus chart at a 45
degree angle, it seems to be bacfocusing very bad at 200mm. There
is no way i'm sending my camera to canon with this lens so will
they try to fix it without my camera? Or will they simply test it
and say there is nothing wrong with it? Maybe 17 street photo will
take it back even though i've had it for 16 days. I'll follow this
up with the chart pics.
--
http://www.pbase.com/paulyoly/root

--
http://www.pbase.com/paulyoly/root



This one backfocuses just as bad as the other and it does it at all focal lengths. I had asked to replace it with the canon 100mm macro and wrote that on the return form and still they sent me another copy. I didn't even bother opening the lens hood this time. Anyone with a digital rebel i would advise against buying this lens as it appears to not work well with this camera. funny how my 50 1.8 and 400 f5.6L both work great as well as the kit lens of course. I'd would guess nothing is infocus past my focus point until 1/4-1/2 inch. I wonder just how good a "good copy" of this lens focuses with the digital rebel. I'm going to try and exchange it again for a 100mm macro and battery grip, if they sold the 200mm 2.8 i would have exchanged for that.
 
I was waiting for BH to reopen, so I can replace my copy, Its such a wonderful lens, but hearing your problem I start to believe its a general quality control issue with the latest lot of the 70-200, and I might get an equally bad copy....

Darn. I am hesitant to send my 300D in, since I am afraid, they will fix 70-200, but mess up my other lenses (compatibility with 300D)

The 100mm macro and the 200L sound like a good lens but I already have a Carl Zeiss Jena 200/2.8. And I have seen pics with 70-200 and extention tube pics which were quite impressive, and I was hoping I can live without the 100/2.8 macro.....

Any Idea, what lens to buy for candid portraits? long and sharp enough and gives me flexibility of zoom? (not more than 700 bucs..)
This one backfocuses just as bad as the other and it does it at all
focal lengths. I had asked to replace it with the canon 100mm
macro and wrote that on the return form and still they sent me
another copy. I didn't even bother opening the lens hood this
time. Anyone with a digital rebel i would advise against buying
this lens as it appears to not work well with this camera. funny
how my 50 1.8 and 400 f5.6L both work great as well as the kit lens
of course. I'd would guess nothing is infocus past my focus point
until 1/4-1/2 inch. I wonder just how good a "good copy" of this
lens focuses with the digital rebel. I'm going to try and exchange
it again for a 100mm macro and battery grip, if they sold the 200mm
2.8 i would have exchanged for that.
--
Roland Pallagi
 
PaulyOly,

17 Street Photo does stock the 200mm 2.8L prime. I just bought one from them as well as the 50mm f/1.4 USM and 85mm f/1.8 USM. As I mentioned before, I had the same backfocus issues with the 70-200mm.

Give them a call and ask them if they can give you a decent price on the 200mm l f/2.8. They sold me all of my US lenses at the import price. Total $1190 after rebate for all three.

I am very happy with all the primes!

Here is a link to a thread I started with pix from each lens including 100% crops.
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1029&message=8336274

Sorry to hear they did not do as you requested.

Regards,
Aric
I'm going to try and exchange
it again for a 100mm macro and battery grip, if they sold the 200mm
2.8 i would have exchanged for that.
 
Well after getting consistently blurry pics of flowers at 200mm and
not at say 135mm i decided to test it using a focus chart at a 45
degree angle, it seems to be bacfocusing very bad at 200mm. There
is no way i'm sending my camera to canon with this lens so will
they try to fix it without my camera? Or will they simply test it
and say there is nothing wrong with it? Maybe 17 street photo will
take it back even though i've had it for 16 days. I'll follow this
up with the chart pics.
--
http://www.pbase.com/paulyoly/root

--
http://www.pbase.com/paulyoly/root



This one backfocuses just as bad as the other and it does it at all
focal lengths. I had asked to replace it with the canon 100mm
macro and wrote that on the return form and still they sent me
another copy. I didn't even bother opening the lens hood this
time. Anyone with a digital rebel i would advise against buying
this lens as it appears to not work well with this camera. funny
how my 50 1.8 and 400 f5.6L both work great as well as the kit lens
of course. I'd would guess nothing is infocus past my focus point
until 1/4-1/2 inch. I wonder just how good a "good copy" of this
lens focuses with the digital rebel. I'm going to try and exchange
it again for a 100mm macro and battery grip, if they sold the 200mm
2.8 i would have exchanged for that.
 
Can i talk you in a sigma 70-200 2.8? Perhaps you should consider. I own a bigma and focus is okay...
Well after getting consistently blurry pics of flowers at 200mm and
not at say 135mm i decided to test it using a focus chart at a 45
degree angle, it seems to be bacfocusing very bad at 200mm. There
is no way i'm sending my camera to canon with this lens so will
they try to fix it without my camera? Or will they simply test it
and say there is nothing wrong with it? Maybe 17 street photo will
take it back even though i've had it for 16 days. I'll follow this
up with the chart pics.
--
http://www.pbase.com/paulyoly/root

--
http://www.pbase.com/paulyoly/root



This one backfocuses just as bad as the other and it does it at all
focal lengths. I had asked to replace it with the canon 100mm
macro and wrote that on the return form and still they sent me
another copy. I didn't even bother opening the lens hood this
time. Anyone with a digital rebel i would advise against buying
this lens as it appears to not work well with this camera. funny
how my 50 1.8 and 400 f5.6L both work great as well as the kit lens
of course. I'd would guess nothing is infocus past my focus point
until 1/4-1/2 inch. I wonder just how good a "good copy" of this
lens focuses with the digital rebel. I'm going to try and exchange
it again for a 100mm macro and battery grip, if they sold the 200mm
2.8 i would have exchanged for that.
 

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