Pro1 focussing method

Maybe it was a silly question, but I asked a couple of days ago whether or not anyone has noticed an improvement in speed or accuracy using the method of focussing mentioned in the manual i.e.

to manually focus then press SET, at which point the camera will selct a more accurate foussing point near the one you've selected.

Was it silly or is it relevant considering the amount of concern over the Pro1's focussing ability
Has it allowed you to focus when a completely AF method wouldn't

Comments please this time or I give up asking
--
Dave H

I don't know if I have enough experience with this feature to make a valid comment.

I have used it several times and it does seem to improve the focus. Especially in the 10-15ft range where the MF scale is not as sensitive and it is more difficult to see on the LCD how accurate your MF is.

It seems to make a very minor focus change on the MF you have selected.
It occurs very quickly.

Unfortunately most of my testing has been low light levels hand held. I get home from work and it is dark.

So I have not done any real comparison in daylight.

Stretch

DaveHutch said:

Maybe it was a silly question, but I asked a couple of days ago
whether or not anyone has noticed an improvement in speed or
accuracy using the method of focussing mentioned in the manual i.e.
to manually focus then press SET, at which point the camera will
selct a more accurate foussing point near the one you've selected.

Was it silly or is it relevant considering the amount of concern
over the Pro1's focussing ability
Has it allowed you to focus when a completely AF method wouldn't

Comments please this time or I give up asking
--
Dave H

Click to expand...

So far I was not able to comfortably manual focus in the first place as necessary for this feature to work. I just can't see what's in focus on the LCD and EFV.
I developed a new method of focusing with Pro1 though.
It's called "Snap and Pray Method"

The idea is simple you just press the shutter release button regardless of the fact that the camera couldn't lock the focus. Due to the larger DOF on small sensor cameras there is a good chance that the focus was in the right ballpark and your subject will be in focus.

If the pictures are still blurry, don’t blame Canon and work on your prayer method.

DaveHutch said:

Maybe it was a silly question, but I asked a couple of days ago
whether or not anyone has noticed an improvement in speed or
accuracy using the method of focussing mentioned in the manual i.e.
to manually focus then press SET, at which point the camera will
selct a more accurate foussing point near the one you've selected.

Was it silly or is it relevant considering the amount of concern
over the Pro1's focussing ability
Has it allowed you to focus when a completely AF method wouldn't

Comments please this time or I give up asking
--
Dave H

Click to expand...

I'm still laughing... Great technique! ) Snap and pray... )

To be serious though, doesn't the same thing (MF focus) essentially happen when the camera is in Continuous AF mode? While you are composing the shot, the camera rough focuses on the subject. Then when you half-press the shutter release, the camera fine tunes and locks focus quickly. I think the two methods are very similar. The MF method just uses less battery power.

kindest regards
Dale

Srf_Cast said:

DaveHutch said:

Maybe it was a silly question, but I asked a couple of days ago
whether or not anyone has noticed an improvement in speed or
accuracy using the method of focussing mentioned in the manual i.e.
to manually focus then press SET, at which point the camera will
selct a more accurate foussing point near the one you've selected.

Was it silly or is it relevant considering the amount of concern
over the Pro1's focussing ability
Has it allowed you to focus when a completely AF method wouldn't

Comments please this time or I give up asking
--
Dave H

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

That very well may be true in theory. MF method may use less power, but so far I failed to see any other advantages of using it.

I can not MF on anything fast since I can not see what's in focus. In addition to that if I manage to MF the camera still has the same problems refining and locking it. The judgment is still out and your mileage may vary, but as of now I find the MF to be more like a gimmick than useful feature.

dbuhanan said:

To be serious though, doesn't the same thing (MF focus) essentially
happen when the camera is in Continuous AF mode? While you are
composing the shot, the camera rough focuses on the subject. Then
when you half-press the shutter release, the camera fine tunes and
locks focus quickly. I think the two methods are very similar.
The MF method just uses less battery power.

kindest regards
Dale

Srf_Cast said:

DaveHutch said:

Maybe it was a silly question, but I asked a couple of days ago
whether or not anyone has noticed an improvement in speed or
accuracy using the method of focussing mentioned in the manual i.e.
to manually focus then press SET, at which point the camera will
selct a more accurate foussing point near the one you've selected.

Was it silly or is it relevant considering the amount of concern
over the Pro1's focussing ability
Has it allowed you to focus when a completely AF method wouldn't

Comments please this time or I give up asking
--
Dave H

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Srf_Cast said:

That very well may be true in theory. MF method may use less power,
but so far I failed to see any other advantages of using it.
I can not MF on anything fast since I can not see what's in focus.
In addition to that if I manage to MF the camera still has the same
problems refining and locking it. The judgment is still out and
your mileage may vary, but as of now I find the MF to be more like
a gimmick than useful feature.

Click to expand...

The way that I use manual focus is different than that because I can't see that well either. What I do is look at the subject I am trying to photograph and estimate... 'Well, that looks to be about 10 feet away' for example. Then I push the MF button and use the scale on the right side of the screen to go to 10 feet. I get great pictures even in very dim light that way because the camera has enough DOF that everything is in focus. That is fast and easy when AF fails.

Alternatively, I have set the zoom to 28-50 mm where it will focus on anything in near darkness... and zoom with my feet. That works well also.

kindest regards
Dale