S20 pro, anyone?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Darrell Spreen
  • Start date Start date
I can not offer substantiation, but if the S20 uses an equivalent
or better optical system then the S602, then I feel that the S20
will have better optics.
------------------------------------------

I recall coment that with S7000, and beyond, Fuji had done some "improvement" with lens coatings. I'm not a lens-knowledgeable user. How much can they impact lens performance with really good and appropriate coatings?.........over 602 for example.
TMc
 
I hear you Darrell. This camera is available at BHPhotoVideo and I would like to know if anyone has tried to make a 16X20 out of this camera. Darrell did you notice the comparison between the S20 and the S7000. I have three S2 pros and they work great but I am concerned about this S20 and it resolution.

Thanks
John Warren
 
I believe Fuji could do a
much better job with their telephone / e-mail support people
don't get me started here ;)
AND
insist that sales outlets use an exact copy of the Fuji product
descriptions emphasizing HR and SR as appropriate. I have looked
at an incredible number of websites and posts and the HR / SR
message never got thru.
TMc
Perhaps because i have been following this for awhile but check out this

http://www.dpreview.com/news/0301/archive.asp

Wed. January 22 2003 Fujifilm announces super CCD IV HR and SR. Everything you wanted to know about this ;). Notice the SIMULATED images for the SR example.

The sad part is, that the SR can do exactly what is simulated but not from the camera. It appears to take a lot more over exposure like a blazing sun to get the camera to kick in any R sensor.

David
 
This camera doesn't seem to be behaving any different to what I expect from my F700, at least on this initial set of tests...

And ironically, it seems to have more chromatic aberrations than the F700????
  • Raist
 
The S20, to my eye, has less noise, esp in the sky, than images out
of my f700 (then again its pretty cold in Toronto ;) Also, most of
the shots seem a bit sharper- likely due to better optics (bigger
lense)
So why do you think the optics are better on the S20 pro? Remember
it has more zoom also. I bet the f700 is just as good or better.
If the pictures are anything to judge by, it seems the F700 may have better ironically (notice the CA's). I'll be honest and say it's too early to tell... maybe it's about the same, which would put the F700 lens in quite good light.
and to some degree due to less jpeg compression
jpeg compression tends to blur things, reduce noise while
sharpening, that increases noise and the S20 has less sharpening,
because, again, Fuji seems to sharpen less when there is less jpeg
compression.
  • Raist
 
Shutter lag seems a bit smaller, I think on the basis of slightly faster AF. I haven't timed it though, so completely subjective. The manual focus ring works about the same: still the same tactile disconnect because of its "fly by wire" implementation. The focus ring on the barrel now doubles as a zoom control when you're in AF mode (in addition to the rocker switch on the back).
did you compare the shutter lag between the 602 and S20, any
improvements?
Is the manual focus ring more responsive on the S20?
The jpg compression options are 6M fine, 6M normal, 3M, 2M and 1M.

Perhaps you're right about the extra file size being related to the
increased dynamic range provided by the ccd4 vs ccd3 in the 602.

George
Good news about the AF. now regarding the file size, maybe since
the new sensor has a wider dynamic range, the increased file size
could be a direct result from capturing more colour...
or maybe it's just that Fuji has tweaked it's jpeg compression scheme.
how many choices does the s20 have for jpeg compression?

BTW, do you have a mac?
I'm curious to know if iPhoto recognizes the camera when hooked up
through the firewire connection?
With reference to the colour, I took some other S20 vs 602 pictures
of a brick house across the street, and without being able to
articulate it any better than this, the colour of the brick in the
S20 shots seems somehow deeper.

BTW, can anyone explain why the S20 files would be 200-500K larger
than the 602 files at the same resolution, with the same subject?
George, have you tested the AF in low-light conditions inside the
house?
does it perform better than the 602?
http://www.pixer.org/s20/s20_vs_s602/

to me it looks like both photos were taken with the same camera.
Fuji did a really bad job with the s20 :(

thank you george
-lukas (with s7000 and Nikon D70)
 
There is no provision that I can find in the HU-V2 software for separating the output of the S and R sensors. I hadn't realised you could do this with ANY software, as you apparently have. I'd be interested in hearing how this is done.

Re: your test instructions: I understand what you're asking for, however, it's heavily overcast in Toronto today with 10-20cm of snow expected, so no bright sunlight, I'm afraid. Can you suggest an alternative technique? And if you want me to proceed, can you give me an email address I can send the 13mb RAW file to?

George
Ok, here is the test we (ok I) have been waiting for.

To demonstrate the SR combining algorithm you have to overexpose
the image and I do mean overexpose. think 4 ev overexposed.

So run outside, point your camera into a nice dark spot and set it
to spot metering, and take the reading. Go to manual and set it
there now, move it over so that it includes the shadowy dark spot
and that nice bright sunlit spot. Take the picture.

That is what this image is from the F700

http://www.pbase.com/image/23096441

If it looks like this

http://www.pbase.com/image/23135288 (same image shot in raw and
processed with different software)

then you have a winner. Fuji has fixed the SR combining algorithm.

My guess is you haven't even begun to touch the R sensor yet in
terms of exposure. It doesn't begin to provide much until the S
sensor is overexposed and don't underestimate the range of the S
sensor alone.

As S7000 and S5000 users can attest, the SCCD IV has very good
dynamic range, Fuji's own info says that it has more dynamic range
than SCCD III on the 602. Darned if I can find that link again ;).

If you can snap the overexposed image in raw and somehow manage to
find a place to host the 12mbyte file I can extract out the S and R
sensor data separately and have a looksee to and see if Fuji has
improved anything.

As far as file size increase being because of increased dynamic
range? I don't think so, we would have seen that on the F700.
More likely, Fuji got tired of hearing about how many compression
artifacts there were and did something about it.

You can see what Fuji has done with compression and sharpening,
they sharpen images with less compression more, since less
compression tends to blur images. The sharpening tends to
introduces artifacts and increase noise. Put all of this togethor
(along with the very limited raw converter for the S7000, S5000
F700) and you can see Fuji never really put their best showing out.

Did we ever determine if the HS-V2 software has any provision for
adjusting the S R ratio? Last i heard it didn't?

David
 
Download s7Raw (see link in thread above). It allows you to see and manipulate (with some difficulty though) the S and R channels. They are doing great work with their freeware product.

Despite all of the work s7RAW has put in, it shows how hard it is to properly mix the S and R signals. I ussually cannot improve on my jpeg output :(
Re: your test instructions: I understand what you're asking for,
however, it's heavily overcast in Toronto today with 10-20cm of
snow expected, so no bright sunlight, I'm afraid. Can you suggest
an alternative technique? And if you want me to proceed, can you
give me an email address I can send the 13mb RAW file to?

George
Ok, here is the test we (ok I) have been waiting for.

To demonstrate the SR combining algorithm you have to overexpose
the image and I do mean overexpose. think 4 ev overexposed.

So run outside, point your camera into a nice dark spot and set it
to spot metering, and take the reading. Go to manual and set it
there now, move it over so that it includes the shadowy dark spot
and that nice bright sunlit spot. Take the picture.

That is what this image is from the F700

http://www.pbase.com/image/23096441

If it looks like this

http://www.pbase.com/image/23135288 (same image shot in raw and
processed with different software)

then you have a winner. Fuji has fixed the SR combining algorithm.

My guess is you haven't even begun to touch the R sensor yet in
terms of exposure. It doesn't begin to provide much until the S
sensor is overexposed and don't underestimate the range of the S
sensor alone.

As S7000 and S5000 users can attest, the SCCD IV has very good
dynamic range, Fuji's own info says that it has more dynamic range
than SCCD III on the 602. Darned if I can find that link again ;).

If you can snap the overexposed image in raw and somehow manage to
find a place to host the 12mbyte file I can extract out the S and R
sensor data separately and have a looksee to and see if Fuji has
improved anything.

As far as file size increase being because of increased dynamic
range? I don't think so, we would have seen that on the F700.
More likely, Fuji got tired of hearing about how many compression
artifacts there were and did something about it.

You can see what Fuji has done with compression and sharpening,
they sharpen images with less compression more, since less
compression tends to blur images. The sharpening tends to
introduces artifacts and increase noise. Put all of this togethor
(along with the very limited raw converter for the S7000, S5000
F700) and you can see Fuji never really put their best showing out.

Did we ever determine if the HS-V2 software has any provision for
adjusting the S R ratio? Last i heard it didn't?

David
 
I hear you Darrell. This camera is available at BHPhotoVideo and I
would like to know if anyone has tried to make a 16X20 out of this
camera. Darrell did you notice the comparison between the S20 and
the S7000. I have three S2 pros and they work great but I am
concerned about this S20 and it resolution.
The comparison of crops from the S7000 and S20 that I saw
didn't look too different in terms of detail.

I would very much like to see a few well-exposed JPEG
images (please, no bigger than 250kB) to get a feel for
the overall image quality and color accuracy. So far, from
what I have seen, the S20 image quality does not have the
subtle richness of the S2, but some samples were designed
to stress the SR sensor I think.

D
 
Despite all of the work s7RAW has put in, it shows how hard it is
to properly mix the S and R signals. I ussually cannot improve on
my jpeg output :(
First off, unless you have overexposed parts to your image, adding the R sensor does not help. Although it can produce some cool affects. And when i mean over expose, i mean it.

Second, the combining is actually rather trivial compared to say the Bayer interpolation. I would say for all the work S7Raw has put into the product the combining really wasn't all that good. Understandable, since he doesn't have the F700.

This its hard argument has been used before but the fact remains, Fuji does it in the camera, and does it well. That is not the problem. The problem is with the amount of R sensor and the conditions used to trigger its use.

And just like white balance or exposure, the automatic settings don't always give you what you want, so it is to be expected with the SR sensor. So it is almost mind boggling that there is no provision for manually adjusting the amount of R sensor used either in the HS-V2 software or the camera.
There is no provision that I can find in the HU-V2 software for
separating the output of the S and R sensors. I hadn't realised you
could do this with ANY software, as you apparently have. I'd be
interested in hearing how this is done.
There are several options for doing this. First the Raw file contains both the S and R sensor image. So you have to shoot in raw.

Dave Coffin with DCRAW can convert and combine but his combining alogirthm is flawed.

There is a gentlemen name Marf on this forum that had a crude extractor that showed both S and R image in one file.

I took this stuff and wrote a dos program and later a GUI windows based program to extract out each image, and also combine them. Click on my name and follow links back.

Also, Adobe photoshop CS can combine the S & R data by controlling the exposure. This combining seems to be based on the high dynamic range software developed by USC. At least i get similar results. It can produces very good images and some very strange images.

And there is always S7Raw which gets better each time.

So basically, you can extract the S and R data separately and combine them and interpolate, apply white balance, tone curve, etc. and get an image.

Combining the S and R seems to work best with some function

outptut = f(S.R) and provide some sort of curve with more S used at the darkest area and more R used at the brighter area. The other thing is that the white balance of the R is different from the S and so that must be taken into account and the gamma adjustment needs to be done and really you are converting three images.

I believe that is one of the problems with third party converters, they try to shoe horn the raw workflow into something geared for one sensor and this is really three sensors.

take a look at this screen shot

http://www.pbase.com/image/24783476

Here you see three windows open with the S, R and combined sensors. This is what is needed to work on the S&R sensor and produce a decent output.

But like i said, Fuji knows how to combine the S&R sensor. The fact that you can't tell when itis combined is an indication of this.
Re: your test instructions: I understand what you're asking for,
however, it's heavily overcast in Toronto today with 10-20cm of
snow expected, so no bright sunlight, I'm afraid. Can you suggest
an alternative technique? And if you want me to proceed, can you
give me an email address I can send the 13mb RAW file to?
No, i don't have a ready solution to that perhaps someone else can help us.

Fer you around?

David
 
David, you definately have the most experience in this area, so I generally will defer to your conclusions. I have take many shots that would benefit from better mixing- basically any indoor shot with a window (the window is always blown out) or an outdoor shot with lots of shados and sky (see my recent post of the Phl Museum of Art lower in this thread- the side of the builing is a bit blown out, and more R would help.)

I need a newer/fster computer befor I can really start manipulating RAW images. S7RAW alsoos for good control of R and S info- and I can get overblown areas in the S blacked out, but I cant get the R to add in properly without funky purple colors. I really appreciate that s&RAW has put so much work into fixing Fuji's problem...
Despite all of the work s7RAW has put in, it shows how hard it is
to properly mix the S and R signals. I ussually cannot improve on
my jpeg output :(
First off, unless you have overexposed parts to your image, adding
the R sensor does not help. Although it can produce some cool
affects. And when i mean over expose, i mean it.

Second, the combining is actually rather trivial compared to say
the Bayer interpolation. I would say for all the work S7Raw has
put into the product the combining really wasn't all that good.
Understandable, since he doesn't have the F700.

This its hard argument has been used before but the fact remains,
Fuji does it in the camera, and does it well. That is not the
problem. The problem is with the amount of R sensor and the
conditions used to trigger its use.

And just like white balance or exposure, the automatic settings
don't always give you what you want, so it is to be expected with
the SR sensor. So it is almost mind boggling that there is no
provision for manually adjusting the amount of R sensor used either
in the HS-V2 software or the camera.
There is no provision that I can find in the HU-V2 software for
separating the output of the S and R sensors. I hadn't realised you
could do this with ANY software, as you apparently have. I'd be
interested in hearing how this is done.
There are several options for doing this. First the Raw file
contains both the S and R sensor image. So you have to shoot in
raw.

Dave Coffin with DCRAW can convert and combine but his combining
alogirthm is flawed.

There is a gentlemen name Marf on this forum that had a crude
extractor that showed both S and R image in one file.

I took this stuff and wrote a dos program and later a GUI windows
based program to extract out each image, and also combine them.
Click on my name and follow links back.

Also, Adobe photoshop CS can combine the S & R data by controlling
the exposure. This combining seems to be based on the high dynamic
range software developed by USC. At least i get similar results.
It can produces very good images and some very strange images.

And there is always S7Raw which gets better each time.

So basically, you can extract the S and R data separately and
combine them and interpolate, apply white balance, tone curve, etc.
and get an image.

Combining the S and R seems to work best with some function

outptut = f(S.R) and provide some sort of curve with more S used
at the darkest area and more R used at the brighter area. The
other thing is that the white balance of the R is different from
the S and so that must be taken into account and the gamma
adjustment needs to be done and really you are converting three
images.

I believe that is one of the problems with third party converters,
they try to shoe horn the raw workflow into something geared for
one sensor and this is really three sensors.

take a look at this screen shot

http://www.pbase.com/image/24783476

Here you see three windows open with the S, R and combined sensors.
This is what is needed to work on the S&R sensor and produce a
decent output.

But like i said, Fuji knows how to combine the S&R sensor. The
fact that you can't tell when itis combined is an indication of
this.
Re: your test instructions: I understand what you're asking for,
however, it's heavily overcast in Toronto today with 10-20cm of
snow expected, so no bright sunlight, I'm afraid. Can you suggest
an alternative technique? And if you want me to proceed, can you
give me an email address I can send the 13mb RAW file to?
No, i don't have a ready solution to that perhaps someone else can
help us.

Fer you around?

David
 
I asked this earlier in the thread but it may have been overlooked.

If I am an amateur user, with some knowledge of taking decent trip, vacation pics, with an S20Pro,
AND...............................

you are who you are,... with an S7000, can you almost always achieve the same final image result as the S20Pro guy, by underexposing the S7000 shots and capable post-processing?

If not, why not?
TMc
 
Whenever you lighten underexposed areas with post-processing you amplify noise. this can be hidden with additional postprocessing, at the expense of detail (which the S7000 has in spades, so would be doable.) Seems like a lot of work to intentionally underexpose then postprocess. A similar approach is to bracket exposure then combine as needed- again alot of work.

Ideally/theoretically, the SR should allow overexposure without loss of detail either straight out of the camer or through postprocessing. If you wanted to take a similar approach to above, you would bracket to overexpose with SR, and then extract highlight detail from the R sensor using RAW- again lots of work.This was acheived to a limitted degree by the F700, and the jury is still out on the s20.
I asked this earlier in the thread but it may have been overlooked.

If I am an amateur user, with some knowledge of taking decent trip,
vacation pics, with an S20Pro,
AND...............................
you are who you are,... with an S7000, can you almost always
achieve the same final image result as the S20Pro guy, by
underexposing the S7000 shots and capable post-processing?

If not, why not?
TMc
 
I asked this earlier in the thread but it may have been overlooked.

If I am an amateur user, with some knowledge of taking decent trip,
vacation pics, with an S20Pro,
AND...............................
you are who you are,... with an S7000, can you almost always
achieve the same final image result as the S20Pro guy, by
underexposing the S7000 shots and capable post-processing?

If not, why not?
TMc
Let me answer that good question.
The answer is:
With every digital camera, the most noise is in the dark areas
of the picture.
If you underexpose a picture you have a lot of noise in it.
But these underexposed parts may be the more important
things, so you may postprocess the picture to see these
dark areas better.
But with this postprocessing the noise of
the dark areas will become even more stronger.
So you get too much noise in a high dynamic range situation
if you solve it with underexposing.
 
There is a free program ($'s if you want to batch convert) called DCE that allows one to simple controll amplification off shadows and noise reduction and color/contrast in a very simple interface. I can post a link later. It does great work with underexposed shots, intentional or not.
Ideally/theoretically, the SR should allow overexposure without
loss of detail either straight out of the camer or through
postprocessing. If you wanted to take a similar approach to above,
you would bracket to overexpose with SR, and then extract highlight
detail from the R sensor using RAW- again lots of work.This was
acheived to a limitted degree by the F700, and the jury is still
out on the s20.
I asked this earlier in the thread but it may have been overlooked.

If I am an amateur user, with some knowledge of taking decent trip,
vacation pics, with an S20Pro,
AND...............................
you are who you are,... with an S7000, can you almost always
achieve the same final image result as the S20Pro guy, by
underexposing the S7000 shots and capable post-processing?

If not, why not?
TMc
 
I asked this earlier in the thread but it may have been overlooked.

If I am an amateur user, with some knowledge of taking decent trip,
vacation pics, with an S20Pro,
AND...............................
you are who you are,... with an S7000, can you almost always
achieve the same final image result as the S20Pro guy, by
underexposing the S7000 shots and capable post-processing?

If not, why not?
TMc
Let me answer that good question.
The answer is:
With every digital camera, the most noise is in the dark areas
of the picture.
If you underexpose a picture you have a lot of noise in it.
But these underexposed parts may be the more important
things, so you may postprocess the picture to see these
dark areas better.
But with this postprocessing the noise of
the dark areas will become even more stronger.
So you get too much noise in a high dynamic range situation
if you solve it with underexposing.
 
Let me answer that good question.
The answer is:
With every digital camera, the most noise is in the dark areas
of the picture.
If you underexpose a picture you have a lot of noise in it.
But these underexposed parts may be the more important
things, so you may postprocess the picture to see these
dark areas better.
But with this postprocessing the noise of
the dark areas will become even more stronger.
So you get too much noise in a high dynamic range situation
if you solve it with underexposing.
---------------------------------------------

Clear, well stated answer. I am happy to pay more for the S20Pro as long as it will produce a superior image and it includes HS-V2.

I was not properly focused on the issue of noise in the shadow areas and the problem of increasing it using "brightness curve" post processing.
Thank-you.
TMc
 
Whenever you lighten underexposed areas with post-processing you
amplify noise. this can be hidden with additional postprocessing,
at the expense of detail (which the S7000 has in spades, so would
be doable.) Seems like a lot of work to intentionally underexpose
then postprocess. A similar approach is to bracket exposure then
combine as needed- again alot of work.

Ideally/theoretically, the SR should allow overexposure without
loss of detail either straight out of the camer or through
postprocessing. If you wanted to take a similar approach to above,
you would bracket to overexpose with SR, and then extract highlight
detail from the R sensor using RAW- again lots of work.This was
acheived to a limitted degree by the F700, and the jury is still
out on the s20.
Anything I am seeing so far from the pictures, is virtually identical F700 behavior. But I agree it's early.
  • Raist
 

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