CP 950 Pictures Cyan - Color Problems

David Abramson

New member
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
I am having a very difficult time getting proper color on my 950. Currently I am in Sedona photographing amongst the "red rocks". However, the color coming off the 950 is terrible. The scenery is cyan.

I've tried other white point settings with no luck. Is almost like the color balance on the camera is compltetly off on half of my shots, but I don't know which ones it will be.

The shot below is taken in a relatively shaded area. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Low Res Example:
http://www.inch.com/~divad/[email protected]
 
I am having a very difficult time getting proper color on my 950.
Currently I am in Sedona photographing amongst the "red rocks". However,
the color coming off the 950 is terrible. The scenery is cyan.

I've tried other white point settings with no luck. Is almost like the
color balance on the camera is compltetly off on half of my shots, but I
don't know which ones it will be.
The shot below is taken in a relatively shaded area. Any ideas would be
appreciated.

Low Res Example:



--
[email protected]
David, Looking at the image, I feel it is pretty good. Considering that the scenery was illuminated by blue sky, the color rendition actually seems quite accurate. If you want to change the color balance to reflect the way your eyes perceived the scene, you'll have to add some yellow; everything should then fall into place.

An analogy could be drawn with a photo of an indoor scene illuminated with regular lightbulbs (tungsten). The camera yields a very orange-red image, which is in fact the real color. Your brain automatically "filters out" the excess orange light to achieve what seems to be a normal color balance in your mind. The same thing happened with your picture, but inversely: the scene was very blue, but your mind "filtered out" the blue. The camera did not know that it was supposed to do this to make you happy! The mid-reading firmware is not yet ready!

Fortunately any decent image editing program will allow you to correct the exposure to values that more closely match your memory of the scene. Everybody who edits images does this to some degree. Welcome to the club!
regards
Robert Jeantet
 
Thanks for the input. Should I not be expecting any analogy between digital color rendition and that of film? In the pic below it the sky wasn't really blue - very very light blue at best. The richness of the colors on the rocks was unbelievable. I wouldn't exepct to capture all of it, but I didn't get any of it.
I am having a very difficult time getting proper color on my 950.
Currently I am in Sedona photographing amongst the "red rocks". However,
the color coming off the 950 is terrible. The scenery is cyan.

I've tried other white point settings with no luck. Is almost like the
color balance on the camera is compltetly off on half of my shots, but I
don't know which ones it will be.
The shot below is taken in a relatively shaded area. Any ideas would be
appreciated.

Low Res Example:



--
[email protected]
David, Looking at the image, I feel it is pretty good. Considering that
the scenery was illuminated by blue sky, the color rendition actually
seems quite accurate. If you want to change the color balance to reflect
the way your eyes perceived the scene, you'll have to add some yellow;
everything should then fall into place.
An analogy could be drawn with a photo of an indoor scene illuminated
with regular lightbulbs (tungsten). The camera yields a very orange-red
image, which is in fact the real color. Your brain automatically "filters
out" the excess orange light to achieve what seems to be a normal color
balance in your mind. The same thing happened with your picture, but
inversely: the scene was very blue, but your mind "filtered out" the
blue. The camera did not know that it was supposed to do this to make you
happy! The mid-reading firmware is not yet ready!
Fortunately any decent image editing program will allow you to correct
the exposure to values that more closely match your memory of the scene.
Everybody who edits images does this to some degree. Welcome to the club!
regards
Robert Jeantet
 
I am having a very difficult time getting proper color on my 950.
Currently I am in Sedona photographing amongst the "red rocks". However,
the color coming off the 950 is terrible. The scenery is cyan.

I've tried other white point settings with no luck. Is almost like the
color balance on the camera is compltetly off on half of my shots, but I
don't know which ones it will be.
The shot below is taken in a relatively shaded area. Any ideas would be
appreciated.

Low Res Example:



--
[email protected]
David, Looking at the image, I feel it is pretty good. Considering that
the scenery was illuminated by blue sky, the color rendition actually
seems quite accurate. If you want to change the color balance to reflect
the way your eyes perceived the scene, you'll have to add some yellow;
everything should then fall into place.
An analogy could be drawn with a photo of an indoor scene illuminated
with regular lightbulbs (tungsten). The camera yields a very orange-red
image, which is in fact the real color. Your brain automatically "filters
out" the excess orange light to achieve what seems to be a normal color
balance in your mind. The same thing happened with your picture, but
inversely: the scene was very blue, but your mind "filtered out" the
blue. The camera did not know that it was supposed to do this to make you
happy! The mid-reading firmware is not yet ready!
Fortunately any decent image editing program will allow you to correct
the exposure to values that more closely match your memory of the scene.
Everybody who edits images does this to some degree. Welcome to the club!
regards
Robert Jeantet
David, I know your problem, the same with my 950. I've expressed my findings & there have been a lot of hot debates in this forum. My conclusion is Nikon 950 WB is not up to satisfactory to those photographers the camera is aimed for. The firmware upgrade does improve the problem but not yet satisfy me. 950 is my second camera, it is very capable except colour is off a bit, sometimes it has a blue or cyan casting, the colour is not vivid enough to reproduce the actual colour. My Kodak 260, though is a bit outdate & less capable, but its colour is right on in general, some people (Nikon user) querry it is over saturated, but my experience is it is quite accurate, the new 290 is a bit over saturated (after test shot using my friend's new 290), but the 950 is then under-saturated & with somtimes enhanced blue. I've shot 35mm film & slide with Nikon system over 20 years, those saying the enhanced blue is due to the blue sky is just mis-leading, what cause the colour shift is colour temperature, a cloudy day or under shadow area suffer form the cooler (higher) colour temperature, the effect is not serious as in the case of 950 and can be corrected easily using a skylight filter, you even sdon't need the filter if you shoot negative film, the colour balance can be corrected in the print process.

My solution is use the Flash WB, which suppress blue & enhance red (flash has higher colour temperature), then adjust a little in PS to restore original colour. If you try to correct the colour balance in the photo shown, you will get unnatural looking since the colour depth is only 256 levels, too much adjusting may cause gradation not smooth.

What's my next step, I just wait for Nikon to do something on WB through firmware upgrade, since the investment on another DC is not worth to. I use 950 to shoot macro & still objects, I use 260 to shoot people & those with vibrant colour, its a compromise but nothing can do except waiting for another upgrade firmware. May be I'll switch to another brand if Nikon never could improve it due to technical reasons. At least I'll buy new DC until the next wave, say, 3.3 Mpixels which is a worthy jump from 950. I just upgrade my PC from 486 to PII350 just one & a half years which is a great & worthy jump.

Above is just my two cents comments.
 
I am having a very difficult time getting proper color on my 950.
Currently I am in Sedona photographing amongst the "red rocks". However,
the color coming off the 950 is terrible. The scenery is cyan.

I've tried other white point settings with no luck. Is almost like the
color balance on the camera is compltetly off on half of my shots, but I
don't know which ones it will be.
The shot below is taken in a relatively shaded area. Any ideas would be
appreciated.

Low Res Example:



--
[email protected]
I am glad you brought this up David, I have the same problem with my camera, I am not entirely satisfied, it seems to miss the richness and color in any picture I take. I have tried all settings, many, many times, sometimes I wish I had bought a different camera. I am interested to hear what others have to say.
 
A few things.
1. The color does look right for the lighting. Given that there is
sunlight in the background and you were in shadow, then the blue sky was
lighting the scene. Yes there's been great debate about this
but the fact remains that there is a significant amount of blue light,
a lot more than you realize, and the camera picked it up.

2. It's fairly easy to fix with the preset WB.
In fact, you had something in front of you that would have worked wonders.
The snow is white. In the shot it looks blue sky colored, as it should.
If you want the WB to make it white again, then simply set the WB manually
off the snow in shadow. The whole scene will come out much much warmer.
The snow will appear pure white, and the rocks will be red and yellow.

If it's too warm, try taking a manual WB off the snow that's in sunlight
somewhere.
You'll get something in between the Auto setting that the one above.

Ultimately once you realize the utility of setting the WB color yourself
you'll start to see more of how scenes are illuminated and spot where
to take your WB reading. I use grey sidewalks a lot when I'm around
town. You could also carry a small grey card and do it right.
Start noticing "cool" shadows versus neutral shadows (what happens
under medium cloud cover).

3. Even in shadow, that scene looks maybe a bit over exposed. When you're
trying to bring out colors, let in less light. This is something I
learned from photographing sunsets. If you increase the shutter
speed or decrease the aperture size (via -EV setting) it'll prevent the
colors from getting washed out. If you under-expose it just a little, you
can then tweak it with Photoshop or PSP to whatever level you want without
losing colors. It's much much harder to adjust an over exposed shot.
This is a quick hack at your photo.



Red up, Blue down, desaturated the resulting hue of the sky
(note, the sky is white in the original, so there's not
really a blue cast over everything)
A manual WB reading off the snow would have been better and
less light would have made the colors much better.

ian
 
I am having a very difficult time getting proper color on my 950.
Currently I am in Sedona photographing amongst the "red rocks". However,
the color coming off the 950 is terrible. The scenery is cyan.

I've tried other white point settings with no luck. Is almost like the
color balance on the camera is compltetly off on half of my shots, but I
don't know which ones it will be.
The shot below is taken in a relatively shaded area. Any ideas would be
appreciated.

Low Res Example:



--
[email protected]
David, Looking at the image, I feel it is pretty good. Considering that
the scenery was illuminated by blue sky, the color rendition actually
seems quite accurate. If you want to change the color balance to reflect
the way your eyes perceived the scene, you'll have to add some yellow;
everything should then fall into place.
An analogy could be drawn with a photo of an indoor scene illuminated
with regular lightbulbs (tungsten). The camera yields a very orange-red
image, which is in fact the real color. Your brain automatically "filters
out" the excess orange light to achieve what seems to be a normal color
balance in your mind. The same thing happened with your picture, but
inversely: the scene was very blue, but your mind "filtered out" the
blue. The camera did not know that it was supposed to do this to make you
happy! The mid-reading firmware is not yet ready!
Fortunately any decent image editing program will allow you to correct
the exposure to values that more closely match your memory of the scene.
Everybody who edits images does this to some degree. Welcome to the club!
regards
Robert Jeantet
I have to agree and disagree with that. I have just recently got my 950, but I had the same problem colors look washed out, although the image was VERY Crisp and clear, the color wasn't rich. I can't say much because I havn't played with it enough to say it has a color problem, it may just need a professional operator. Although My DC280 was very good at Mind reading as you call it, and getting those colors I remember. I assume the Nikon will do better with the proper settings.
 
I have to agree and disagree with that. I have just recently got my 950,
but I had the same problem colors look washed out, although the image was
VERY Crisp and clear, the color wasn't rich. I can't say much because I
havn't played with it enough to say it has a color problem, it may just
need a professional operator. Although My DC280 was very good at Mind
reading as you call it, and getting those colors I remember. I assume
the Nikon will do better with the proper settings.
Here's a Nikon shot with Auto WB.



Here's a Nikon shot with Manual WB taken off the shadowed snow.



Here's a Nikon shot with Manual WB taken off sunlit snow.



The second one looks a lot like what a Kodak DC would produce.
I know, I owned two Kodaks before the Nikon.

Guess which one is most accurate? My mom wanted a photo to send
out for xmas, so we spent some considerable time shooting that scene
with different settings, and two different cameras. I got
to look at a printout right there and the first photo
is a much more accurate representation of the scene, including
and especially the blue. We actually reviewed the first couple
shots and then went back out to shoot more.

A couple of her friends were over, so I showed them all
the photos and at first glance, they liked the warmest,
least accurate one the most. It's the Kodak look.

I had them all printed out on photo paper through ezprints.com, and
my Mom ended up choosing the coolest one, and sent
it to the entire family (everyone in her family
sends holiday photos). She's gotten several unsolicited
comments in the last few days about how much people like that photo.

Oh, I mentioned that we took a film shot. The APS camera
photo was less sharp (which suprised me) and was a tad
over exposed and even then it was a lot bluer than the
warmer two of my shots above.

Conclusion:
You can easily set the WB to produce photos with any color
correction you want, but what you like the most
may not be the most accurate representation of the scene.
There's nothing surprising about that though. Shoot it
any way you want. Just don't complain that you've tried
all the settings and seen no changes when it's so easy to
set the WB.

Maybe what the CP950 needs is a "Daylight Shadow" WB preset.

ian
 
I am having a very difficult time getting proper color on my 950.
Currently I am in Sedona photographing amongst the "red rocks". However,
the color coming off the 950 is terrible. The scenery is cyan.

I've tried other white point settings with no luck. Is almost like the
color balance on the camera is compltetly off on half of my shots, but I
don't know which ones it will be.
The shot below is taken in a relatively shaded area. Any ideas would be
appreciated.

Low Res Example:



--
[email protected]
David, Looking at the image, I feel it is pretty good. Considering that
the scenery was illuminated by blue sky, the color rendition actually
seems quite accurate. If you want to change the color balance to reflect
the way your eyes perceived the scene, you'll have to add some yellow;
everything should then fall into place.
An analogy could be drawn with a photo of an indoor scene illuminated
with regular lightbulbs (tungsten). The camera yields a very orange-red
image, which is in fact the real color. Your brain automatically "filters
out" the excess orange light to achieve what seems to be a normal color
balance in your mind. The same thing happened with your picture, but
inversely: the scene was very blue, but your mind "filtered out" the
blue. The camera did not know that it was supposed to do this to make you
happy! The mid-reading firmware is not yet ready!
Fortunately any decent image editing program will allow you to correct
the exposure to values that more closely match your memory of the scene.
Everybody who edits images does this to some degree. Welcome to the club!
regards
Robert Jeantet
I have to agree and disagree with that. I have just recently got my 950,
but I had the same problem colors look washed out, although the image was
VERY Crisp and clear, the color wasn't rich. I can't say much because I
havn't played with it enough to say it has a color problem, it may just
need a professional operator. Although My DC280 was very good at Mind
reading as you call it, and getting those colors I remember. I assume
the Nikon will do better with the proper settings.
It's upsad to those Nikon fans, everything except colour (not rich enough, sometimes off & toward cool) is fine in my 950. To correct one picture is OK, how about hundreds of photos after holiday you need to correct in photoshop, if all photo need the same amount of correction, it's fine, you can do batch editing using the same user defined curve or settings, but if each need different degree of correction, you must get an headache. If other DC can do it, why not 950? The problem is the WB is off too much, out of the tolerable range of the naked eye. I'm a Nikon fans, do hope I'll get Nikon's response & improvement. I'll rather point out the issue, not just defend it. Remember Nikon 950 is designed for photograhers (not pro of course) & its price is within the current prosumer products.
 
It's upsad to those Nikon fans, everything except colour (not rich
enough, sometimes off & toward cool) is fine in my 950. To correct one
picture is OK, how about hundreds of photos after holiday you need to
correct in photoshop, if all photo need the same amount of correction,
it's fine, you can do batch editing using the same user defined curve or
settings, but if each need different degree of correction, you must get
an headache. If other DC can do it, why not 950?
Saying that other DC's "can do it" is misleading though.
Yes, the Kodak (to pick on the most often cited example) can
produce warm saturated colors that are often very visually appealing,
especially when shooting people or typical scenes.

I don't actually care for shooting people and I often
find myself in very difficult lighting shooting strange subjects.
I had two Kodak DCs before the Nikon and some of the things they do
in camera simply cannot be undone in post processing.
My second Kodak couldn't take a picture with snow in it.
Period. Couldn't do it. Bizarre splots of maxed out color where it
should have been white. I'd drop the EV as low as it could go
and it still screwed it up beyond repair. A shot with a lot of of
smooth blue sky in it, became banded overexposed white. I couldn't
fix that. It did people great though. Nice skin tones, good
flash, but to pull it off it sacrificed detail in the brightest
and darkest areas of the photo.

We can debate this all day but often the Nikon produces
very accurate, albeit often less appealing colors, but it
never sacrifices detail to do it. And it won't over
expose something unintentionally like both my Kodaks did
when they warmed up the colors. I can shoot a smooth
expanse of blue sky, or white clouds, or even snow
without any strange artifacts. I can pull details out of
shadows that simply weren't there in my Kodaks.

Does it take more work to shoot with the Nikon? Yes, absolutely.
I've never learned more about photography than when I
started using the CP950. However, if I want ALL my holiday photos
to come out of the camera with warm non-blue tones, a
couple button pushes before each sequence of shots and
my WB will be "perfect", or at least very Kodak-like.
The problem is the WB is
off too much, out of the tolerable range of the naked eye.
We'll have to agree to disagree there. I've stood and looked
at a bluish print in front of the same scene where I took
the shot and could see that what my eyes at first perceived as just
"cool" is actually blue. I SAW it. What does almost every "too blue"
photo out of the CP950 have in common? Sunlit day, photo taken in shadow.
Almost every green flash shot? Didn't set the flash white balance.
Washed out flash shots? Subject close, dark background, matrix metering.
There are exceptions, but the examples most often cited often
fall into these categories.

It's not impossible to adjust for these issues in the camera. Just don't
expect Auto to do everything the way you like it. What you like, I
may not.
I'm a Nikon
fans, do hope I'll get Nikon's response & improvement. I'll rather point
out the issue, not just defend it. Remember Nikon 950 is designed for
photograhers (not pro of course) & its price is within the current
prosumer products.
They did improve the WB. I don't know what's going on with your
camera, but there was a dramatic difference between firmware 1.0-1.1 and
1.2. 1.2 and 1.3 appear to be identical. Using Auto-WB skin tones are
generally warmer and in a scene that IS primarily lit with blue light like
the sky, the camera will compensate quite a bit more than it did before.

Mixed lighting will continue to be a challenge though. It's very
hard to get something lit with both sunlight and shadow in the same
shot and be happy with the color balance in both areas.
And if you're going to cite specific examples, then I am NOT interested
unless you shoot the same scene with two different cameras under
the same conditions. You can show me blues, and I can show you
destroyed details.

Here's the bottom line though. The CP950 is NOT, I repeat NOT
a point and shoot camera. They give you all the control you might
ever want, but they generally won't try to read your mind
and force someone like ME to conform to YOUR idea of "the
perfect color balance". I don't want your colors. That's why I
take my own photographs. With the Kodak I could not undo the damage
to the lightest and darkest areas of the photo. I couldn't fix the snow
shots. I tried and tried and tried.
Then I stopped using the camera.

When people at work ask me "What camera should I buy? I really
like the shots from your Nikon.", I don't immediately tell
them to buy the CP950. If they want to learn something about
photography, or at least aren't adverse to following a couple extra
steps like manual WB, then yes. If they want a point and shoot,
holiday photos only kind of camera, then I point them elsewhere.
I've told people to buy a Kodak before, and even a Sony Mavica, because
I felt that was best suited to their needs. The CP950 will quickly
become "obsolete" by cameras with higher resolution and higher
color depth, but I'll bet that as new cameras come down in
price they'll have fewer and fewer useful features.

The CP950 is not perfect. It's not a point and shoot camera.
It does have flaws. I don't like every shot it produces.
I'll keep it though, because it has a very nice balance of
features, performance and price. Don't expect it to ever
be just like a Kodak.

ian
 
It's upsad to those Nikon fans, everything except colour (not rich
enough, sometimes off & toward cool) is fine in my 950. To correct one
picture is OK, how about hundreds of photos after holiday you need to
correct in photoshop, if all photo need the same amount of correction,
it's fine, you can do batch editing using the same user defined curve or
settings, but if each need different degree of correction, you must get
an headache. If other DC can do it, why not 950?
Saying that other DC's "can do it" is misleading though.
Yes, the Kodak (to pick on the most often cited example) can
produce warm saturated colors that are often very visually appealing,
especially when shooting people or typical scenes.

I don't actually care for shooting people and I often
find myself in very difficult lighting shooting strange subjects.
I had two Kodak DCs before the Nikon and some of the things they do
in camera simply cannot be undone in post processing.
My second Kodak couldn't take a picture with snow in it.
Period. Couldn't do it. Bizarre splots of maxed out color where it
should have been white. I'd drop the EV as low as it could go
and it still screwed it up beyond repair. A shot with a lot of of
smooth blue sky in it, became banded overexposed white. I couldn't
fix that. It did people great though. Nice skin tones, good
flash, but to pull it off it sacrificed detail in the brightest
and darkest areas of the photo.

We can debate this all day but often the Nikon produces
very accurate, albeit often less appealing colors, but it
never sacrifices detail to do it. And it won't over
expose something unintentionally like both my Kodaks did
when they warmed up the colors. I can shoot a smooth
expanse of blue sky, or white clouds, or even snow
without any strange artifacts. I can pull details out of
shadows that simply weren't there in my Kodaks.

Does it take more work to shoot with the Nikon? Yes, absolutely.
I've never learned more about photography than when I
started using the CP950. However, if I want ALL my holiday photos
to come out of the camera with warm non-blue tones, a
couple button pushes before each sequence of shots and
my WB will be "perfect", or at least very Kodak-like.
The problem is the WB is
off too much, out of the tolerable range of the naked eye.
We'll have to agree to disagree there. I've stood and looked
at a bluish print in front of the same scene where I took
the shot and could see that what my eyes at first perceived as just
"cool" is actually blue. I SAW it. What does almost every "too blue"
photo out of the CP950 have in common? Sunlit day, photo taken in shadow.
Almost every green flash shot? Didn't set the flash white balance.
Washed out flash shots? Subject close, dark background, matrix metering.
There are exceptions, but the examples most often cited often
fall into these categories.

It's not impossible to adjust for these issues in the camera. Just don't
expect Auto to do everything the way you like it. What you like, I
may not.
I'm a Nikon
fans, do hope I'll get Nikon's response & improvement. I'll rather point
out the issue, not just defend it. Remember Nikon 950 is designed for
photograhers (not pro of course) & its price is within the current
prosumer products.
They did improve the WB. I don't know what's going on with your
camera, but there was a dramatic difference between firmware 1.0-1.1 and
1.2. 1.2 and 1.3 appear to be identical. Using Auto-WB skin tones are
generally warmer and in a scene that IS primarily lit with blue light like
the sky, the camera will compensate quite a bit more than it did before.

Mixed lighting will continue to be a challenge though. It's very
hard to get something lit with both sunlight and shadow in the same
shot and be happy with the color balance in both areas.
And if you're going to cite specific examples, then I am NOT interested
unless you shoot the same scene with two different cameras under
the same conditions. You can show me blues, and I can show you
destroyed details.

Here's the bottom line though. The CP950 is NOT, I repeat NOT
a point and shoot camera. They give you all the control you might
ever want, but they generally won't try to read your mind
and force someone like ME to conform to YOUR idea of "the
perfect color balance". I don't want your colors. That's why I
take my own photographs. With the Kodak I could not undo the damage
to the lightest and darkest areas of the photo. I couldn't fix the snow
shots. I tried and tried and tried.
Then I stopped using the camera.

When people at work ask me "What camera should I buy? I really
like the shots from your Nikon.", I don't immediately tell
them to buy the CP950. If they want to learn something about
photography, or at least aren't adverse to following a couple extra
steps like manual WB, then yes. If they want a point and shoot,
holiday photos only kind of camera, then I point them elsewhere.
I've told people to buy a Kodak before, and even a Sony Mavica, because
I felt that was best suited to their needs. The CP950 will quickly
become "obsolete" by cameras with higher resolution and higher
color depth, but I'll bet that as new cameras come down in
price they'll have fewer and fewer useful features.

The CP950 is not perfect. It's not a point and shoot camera.
It does have flaws. I don't like every shot it produces.
I'll keep it though, because it has a very nice balance of
features, performance and price. Don't expect it to ever
be just like a Kodak.

ian
Just shoot about 30 pictures & compare with similar shot with V1.1, I find that V1.3 do improve a lot in white balance, I don't have seriously compare V1.2 with V1.1, so I've no comments.

I still wonder the manual cloudy WB still give too cool colour, is that the auto WB improved through firmware upgrade & the cloudy WB not. Just want to see further improvement. 950 is a very capable DC anyway. Up to now, no DC is perfect, but it's a complement of my film system, I'll keep it, use it & enjoy it.

Thanks Phil for this valuable forum, you can express you feeling & share experience with others, thanks those give their respectable reponse & valuable comments. The forum is the most successful component of this site.

Merry X'mas to all of you, we are fortunate to see how digital photography grows up & share a part in its development.
 
Ian & everyone thanks for the insights and a merry christams to you all. First step will be to set the WB manually for the next few days and see what types of results I get.

For the most part I will not be around snow. Without any "white" am I guess I would have to set the WB with a card? How would that work, do I use a "white card" or a 50% gray?

Thanks
I have to agree and disagree with that. I have just recently got my 950,
but I had the same problem colors look washed out, although the image was
VERY Crisp and clear, the color wasn't rich. I can't say much because I
havn't played with it enough to say it has a color problem, it may just
need a professional operator. Although My DC280 was very good at Mind
reading as you call it, and getting those colors I remember. I assume
the Nikon will do better with the proper settings.
Here's a Nikon shot with Auto WB.



Here's a Nikon shot with Manual WB taken off the shadowed snow.



Here's a Nikon shot with Manual WB taken off sunlit snow.



The second one looks a lot like what a Kodak DC would produce.
I know, I owned two Kodaks before the Nikon.

Guess which one is most accurate? My mom wanted a photo to send
out for xmas, so we spent some considerable time shooting that scene
with different settings, and two different cameras. I got
to look at a printout right there and the first photo
is a much more accurate representation of the scene, including
and especially the blue. We actually reviewed the first couple
shots and then went back out to shoot more.

A couple of her friends were over, so I showed them all
the photos and at first glance, they liked the warmest,
least accurate one the most. It's the Kodak look.

I had them all printed out on photo paper through ezprints.com, and
my Mom ended up choosing the coolest one, and sent
it to the entire family (everyone in her family
sends holiday photos). She's gotten several unsolicited
comments in the last few days about how much people like that photo.

Oh, I mentioned that we took a film shot. The APS camera
photo was less sharp (which suprised me) and was a tad
over exposed and even then it was a lot bluer than the
warmer two of my shots above.

Conclusion:
You can easily set the WB to produce photos with any color
correction you want, but what you like the most
may not be the most accurate representation of the scene.
There's nothing surprising about that though. Shoot it
any way you want. Just don't complain that you've tried
all the settings and seen no changes when it's so easy to
set the WB.

Maybe what the CP950 needs is a "Daylight Shadow" WB preset.

ian
 
Thanks for the input. Should I not be expecting any analogy between
digital color rendition and that of film? In the pic below it the sky
wasn't really blue - very very light blue at best. The richness of the
colors on the rocks was unbelievable. I wouldn't exepct to capture all
of it, but I didn't get any of it.
David,

The real problem is that the human eye has much greater latitude tolerance than any image-capturing technology: as we look up at the sky, the eye's pupil instantaneously closes down because of the brightness. As we look downward into the shadow area, the eye opens up so we can see detail. These are two different "exposures" of the same picture! When you took your picture, aiming mainly at the shadowed area, the camera tried to give you good light detail, and overexposed the sky and, for that matter, overexposed the shadow area too, trying to make it look as bright as a well-illuminated scene.

Different camera and film companies have adopted different philosophies in creating their products in an effort to sell their product and please the consumer. Kodak, for example, makes digital cameras that have a heavy bias toward yellow and warm colors generally, which yields very pleasing results in the eyes of most snapshooters, and very nice, healthy-looking people pictures. Nikon, on the other hand, makes digicams with colder (and more accurate) color rendition. More accurate is perhaps not what you want. De gustibus no disputandum est... (there's no accounting for taste) and neither philosophy is right or wrong. It's just a choice. I remember seeing an Agfa film ad some years ago; it showed the Parthenon glowing a lovely golden pink, as in the sunset; the caption stated (in French) "on that day the Parthenon was grey..." . Clearly Agfa's view at that time was that color accuracy was not their goal, and they were trying in their advertising to show that one could get pleasing (and deliberately inaccurate) pictures with their brand of film, that their film in some sense improved on reality. Some digital cameras do that. The Nikon does not, and it is sad to think that you now realize that you perhaps ought to have chosen another brand of camera, because that other brand might have produced images more to your liking.

But all is not lost; you several options which would still allow you to get the results you want out of your Nikon, albeit with some extra effort on your part. You can play with color balances, as someone has shown elsewhere in this string of answers; And you have the possibility to use the lcd screen of your camera to gauge the result, and compensate either by changing the EV or contrast and or luminosity settings as well ; for that matter, you could aim the camera higher (with more sky in the composition) so the exposure is shortened, freeze that setting with a half-depress of the shutter release, and then recompose your image. That is the type of thing I do when the luminosity of the image as seen in the LCD does not match the results I seek. Of course, you could also try taking several bracketed exposures and combine the best elements in one final shot! (I have done this on occasion with very satisfactory results).

The Nikon handles like a snapshot camera, but like a pro camera it does give you the option of learning about photography and settings, and allows you to create the images you want if you're willing to put in a little bit of effort. I hope you'll try and that you'll enjoy the results all the more, knowing that your skill was involved!

regards
Robert Jeantet
 
For the most part I will not be around snow. Without any "white" am I
guess I would have to set the WB with a card? How would that work, do I
use a "white card" or a 50% gray?

Thanks
I have to agree and disagree with that. I have just recently got my 950,
but I had the same problem colors look washed out, although the image was
VERY Crisp and clear, the color wasn't rich. I can't say much because I
havn't played with it enough to say it has a color problem, it may just
need a professional operator. Although My DC280 was very good at Mind
reading as you call it, and getting those colors I remember. I assume
the Nikon will do better with the proper settings.
Here's a Nikon shot with Auto WB.



Here's a Nikon shot with Manual WB taken off the shadowed snow.



Here's a Nikon shot with Manual WB taken off sunlit snow.



The second one looks a lot like what a Kodak DC would produce.
I know, I owned two Kodaks before the Nikon.

Guess which one is most accurate? My mom wanted a photo to send
out for xmas, so we spent some considerable time shooting that scene
with different settings, and two different cameras. I got
to look at a printout right there and the first photo
is a much more accurate representation of the scene, including
and especially the blue. We actually reviewed the first couple
shots and then went back out to shoot more.

A couple of her friends were over, so I showed them all
the photos and at first glance, they liked the warmest,
least accurate one the most. It's the Kodak look.

I had them all printed out on photo paper through ezprints.com, and
my Mom ended up choosing the coolest one, and sent
it to the entire family (everyone in her family
sends holiday photos). She's gotten several unsolicited
comments in the last few days about how much people like that photo.

Oh, I mentioned that we took a film shot. The APS camera
photo was less sharp (which suprised me) and was a tad
over exposed and even then it was a lot bluer than the
warmer two of my shots above.

Conclusion:
You can easily set the WB to produce photos with any color
correction you want, but what you like the most
may not be the most accurate representation of the scene.
There's nothing surprising about that though. Shoot it
any way you want. Just don't complain that you've tried
all the settings and seen no changes when it's so easy to
set the WB.

Maybe what the CP950 needs is a "Daylight Shadow" WB preset.

ian
David, is the firmware of your 950 V1.3, if not, try upgrade to V1.3 & see what's the result, I've just upgraded to V1.3 & the colour balance is not bad, the red colour is much closer to original than with V1.1, deep blue is still bias to blue but it can be correctd in PS easily, it is acceptable if you don't correct it.

In difficult lighting, you can use WB preset, first choose White Preset in the manual, then choose measure & point the lens to a white paper or object, then press down the shutter to take the reading for the camera to set the WB custom setting, then you shoot with the WB preset. Be careful this involves some experience, that is, the light falling on your white paper should be the light falling on your subject also. If the main light is from the sky, it's OK. But in indoor with mixed light from different sources & direction, it needs some practice & experience.

What I demand for is accurate colour, not too warm nor too cool. Digital camera is in its youth (not infant now) but not yet mature, but it now has more & more important place in photography. Yesterday I've shoot 50 children pictures, I can just choose 7 of the very good pictures to print, if not using DC, you will certainly waste a lot of film & money, also it is not good for environmental protection.

Get patient, I believe Nikon are hearing our comments, they are putting efforts to make their already good product even better (of course, there are competitions), just V1.3 firmware mproves the WB & features & performance to my knowledge. Could be V1.4 or later version will become perfect. I'm waiting for D2, may be D3 which has lowered price (D1 is too expensive for me now) so that I make use of my 6 current Nikon lens.
 
Thanks. I'll be spending some time trying all the suggestions I've gotten over the past few days.

David
Thanks for the input. Should I not be expecting any analogy between
digital color rendition and that of film? In the pic below it the sky
wasn't really blue - very very light blue at best. The richness of the
colors on the rocks was unbelievable. I wouldn't exepct to capture all
of it, but I didn't get any of it.
David,

The real problem is that the human eye has much greater latitude
tolerance than any image-capturing technology: as we look up at the sky,
the eye's pupil instantaneously closes down because of the brightness. As
we look downward into the shadow area, the eye opens up so we can see
detail. These are two different "exposures" of the same picture! When you
took your picture, aiming mainly at the shadowed area, the camera tried
to give you good light detail, and overexposed the sky and, for that
matter, overexposed the shadow area too, trying to make it look as bright
as a well-illuminated scene.

Different camera and film companies have adopted different philosophies
in creating their products in an effort to sell their product and please
the consumer. Kodak, for example, makes digital cameras that have a heavy
bias toward yellow and warm colors generally, which yields very pleasing
results in the eyes of most snapshooters, and very nice, healthy-looking
people pictures. Nikon, on the other hand, makes digicams with colder
(and more accurate) color rendition. More accurate is perhaps not what
you want. De gustibus no disputandum est... (there's no accounting for
taste) and neither philosophy is right or wrong. It's just a choice. I
remember seeing an Agfa film ad some years ago; it showed the Parthenon
glowing a lovely golden pink, as in the sunset; the caption stated (in
French) "on that day the Parthenon was grey..." . Clearly Agfa's view at
that time was that color accuracy was not their goal, and they were
trying in their advertising to show that one could get pleasing (and
deliberately inaccurate) pictures with their brand of film, that their
film in some sense improved on reality. Some digital cameras do that. The
Nikon does not, and it is sad to think that you now realize that you
perhaps ought to have chosen another brand of camera, because that other
brand might have produced images more to your liking.

But all is not lost; you several options which would still allow you to
get the results you want out of your Nikon, albeit with some extra effort
on your part. You can play with color balances, as someone has shown
elsewhere in this string of answers; And you have the possibility to use
the lcd screen of your camera to gauge the result, and compensate either
by changing the EV or contrast and or luminosity settings as well ; for
that matter, you could aim the camera higher (with more sky in the
composition) so the exposure is shortened, freeze that setting with a
half-depress of the shutter release, and then recompose your image. That
is the type of thing I do when the luminosity of the image as seen in the
LCD does not match the results I seek. Of course, you could also try
taking several bracketed exposures and combine the best elements in one
final shot! (I have done this on occasion with very satisfactory results).


The Nikon handles like a snapshot camera, but like a pro camera it does
give you the option of learning about photography and settings, and
allows you to create the images you want if you're willing to put in a
little bit of effort. I hope you'll try and that you'll enjoy the results
all the more, knowing that your skill was involved!

regards
Robert Jeantet
 
One problem (and I do consider it a defect) in the Nikon CP 950 is that is does NOT automatically use the built in "Flash" white balance setting when you are taking flash pictures with the camera. To get correctly balanced flash pictures, even using only the built in flash at close range in a dim light condition, you have to manually select the "Flash" white balance setting. To do this, you can only shoot in 'M-Rec' mode. In 'A-Rec' mode you will NEVER get a good color balance on a flash shot when the flash is the primary source of illumination.

I will be asking Nikon at their Nikontech forum to address this when they start accepting questions after the Holidays. I had my CP 950 serviced by them at Melville, NY because of poor white balance but did not have all the pieces to the puzzle in hand at the time.

They set the camera to "factory specs" and when I manually select the "Flash" white balance setting the images have perfect color balance. Some would say: "Just like a Kodak"! :-)

Charles Prichard
[email protected]
-------------------------------------------
I am having a very difficult time getting proper color on my 950.
Currently I am in Sedona photographing amongst the "red rocks". However,
the color coming off the 950 is terrible. The scenery is cyan.

I've tried other white point settings with no luck. Is almost like the
color balance on the camera is compltetly off on half of my shots, but I
don't know which ones it will be.
The shot below is taken in a relatively shaded area. Any ideas would be
appreciated.

Low Res Example:



--
[email protected]
David, Looking at the image, I feel it is pretty good. Considering that
the scenery was illuminated by blue sky, the color rendition actually
seems quite accurate. If you want to change the color balance to reflect
the way your eyes perceived the scene, you'll have to add some yellow;
everything should then fall into place.
An analogy could be drawn with a photo of an indoor scene illuminated
with regular lightbulbs (tungsten). The camera yields a very orange-red
image, which is in fact the real color. Your brain automatically "filters
out" the excess orange light to achieve what seems to be a normal color
balance in your mind. The same thing happened with your picture, but
inversely: the scene was very blue, but your mind "filtered out" the
blue. The camera did not know that it was supposed to do this to make you
happy! The mid-reading firmware is not yet ready!
Fortunately any decent image editing program will allow you to correct
the exposure to values that more closely match your memory of the scene.
Everybody who edits images does this to some degree. Welcome to the club!
regards
Robert Jeantet
David, I know your problem, the same with my 950. I've expressed my
findings & there have been a lot of hot debates in this forum. My
conclusion is Nikon 950 WB is not up to satisfactory to those
photographers the camera is aimed for. The firmware upgrade does improve
the problem but not yet satisfy me. 950 is my second camera, it is very
capable except colour is off a bit, sometimes it has a blue or cyan
casting, the colour is not vivid enough to reproduce the actual colour.
My Kodak 260, though is a bit outdate & less capable, but its colour is
right on in general, some people (Nikon user) querry it is over
saturated, but my experience is it is quite accurate, the new 290 is a
bit over saturated (after test shot using my friend's new 290), but the
950 is then under-saturated & with somtimes enhanced blue. I've shot 35mm
film & slide with Nikon system over 20 years, those saying the enhanced
blue is due to the blue sky is just mis-leading, what cause the colour
shift is colour temperature, a cloudy day or under shadow area suffer
form the cooler (higher) colour temperature, the effect is not serious as
in the case of 950 and can be corrected easily using a skylight filter,
you even sdon't need the filter if you shoot negative film, the colour
balance can be corrected in the print process.

My solution is use the Flash WB, which suppress blue & enhance red (flash
has higher colour temperature), then adjust a little in PS to restore
original colour. If you try to correct the colour balance in the photo
shown, you will get unnatural looking since the colour depth is only 256
levels, too much adjusting may cause gradation not smooth.

What's my next step, I just wait for Nikon to do something on WB through
firmware upgrade, since the investment on another DC is not worth to. I
use 950 to shoot macro & still objects, I use 260 to shoot people & those
with vibrant colour, its a compromise but nothing can do except waiting
for another upgrade firmware. May be I'll switch to another brand if
Nikon never could improve it due to technical reasons. At least I'll buy
new DC until the next wave, say, 3.3 Mpixels which is a worthy jump from
950. I just upgrade my PC from 486 to PII350 just one & a half years
which is a great & worthy jump.

Above is just my two cents comments.
 
There seems to be a consencus regarding the problems with the WB on the 950. I would like to see Nikon adress this. Is there any interest in gathering our thoughts and presenting this to the right folks at Nikon to make something happen?
I will be asking Nikon at their Nikontech forum to address this when they
start accepting questions after the Holidays. I had my CP 950 serviced
by them at Melville, NY because of poor white balance but did not have
all the pieces to the puzzle in hand at the time.

They set the camera to "factory specs" and when I manually select the
"Flash" white balance setting the images have perfect color balance.
Some would say: "Just like a Kodak"! :-)

Charles Prichard
[email protected]
-------------------------------------------
I am having a very difficult time getting proper color on my 950.
Currently I am in Sedona photographing amongst the "red rocks". However,
the color coming off the 950 is terrible. The scenery is cyan.

I've tried other white point settings with no luck. Is almost like the
color balance on the camera is compltetly off on half of my shots, but I
don't know which ones it will be.
The shot below is taken in a relatively shaded area. Any ideas would be
appreciated.

Low Res Example:



--
[email protected]
David, Looking at the image, I feel it is pretty good. Considering that
the scenery was illuminated by blue sky, the color rendition actually
seems quite accurate. If you want to change the color balance to reflect
the way your eyes perceived the scene, you'll have to add some yellow;
everything should then fall into place.
An analogy could be drawn with a photo of an indoor scene illuminated
with regular lightbulbs (tungsten). The camera yields a very orange-red
image, which is in fact the real color. Your brain automatically "filters
out" the excess orange light to achieve what seems to be a normal color
balance in your mind. The same thing happened with your picture, but
inversely: the scene was very blue, but your mind "filtered out" the
blue. The camera did not know that it was supposed to do this to make you
happy! The mid-reading firmware is not yet ready!
Fortunately any decent image editing program will allow you to correct
the exposure to values that more closely match your memory of the scene.
Everybody who edits images does this to some degree. Welcome to the club!
regards
Robert Jeantet
David, I know your problem, the same with my 950. I've expressed my
findings & there have been a lot of hot debates in this forum. My
conclusion is Nikon 950 WB is not up to satisfactory to those
photographers the camera is aimed for. The firmware upgrade does improve
the problem but not yet satisfy me. 950 is my second camera, it is very
capable except colour is off a bit, sometimes it has a blue or cyan
casting, the colour is not vivid enough to reproduce the actual colour.
My Kodak 260, though is a bit outdate & less capable, but its colour is
right on in general, some people (Nikon user) querry it is over
saturated, but my experience is it is quite accurate, the new 290 is a
bit over saturated (after test shot using my friend's new 290), but the
950 is then under-saturated & with somtimes enhanced blue. I've shot 35mm
film & slide with Nikon system over 20 years, those saying the enhanced
blue is due to the blue sky is just mis-leading, what cause the colour
shift is colour temperature, a cloudy day or under shadow area suffer
form the cooler (higher) colour temperature, the effect is not serious as
in the case of 950 and can be corrected easily using a skylight filter,
you even sdon't need the filter if you shoot negative film, the colour
balance can be corrected in the print process.

My solution is use the Flash WB, which suppress blue & enhance red (flash
has higher colour temperature), then adjust a little in PS to restore
original colour. If you try to correct the colour balance in the photo
shown, you will get unnatural looking since the colour depth is only 256
levels, too much adjusting may cause gradation not smooth.

What's my next step, I just wait for Nikon to do something on WB through
firmware upgrade, since the investment on another DC is not worth to. I
use 950 to shoot macro & still objects, I use 260 to shoot people & those
with vibrant colour, its a compromise but nothing can do except waiting
for another upgrade firmware. May be I'll switch to another brand if
Nikon never could improve it due to technical reasons. At least I'll buy
new DC until the next wave, say, 3.3 Mpixels which is a worthy jump from
950. I just upgrade my PC from 486 to PII350 just one & a half years
which is a great & worthy jump.

Above is just my two cents comments.
 
I will be asking Nikon at their Nikontech forum to address this when they
start accepting questions after the Holidays. I had my CP 950 serviced
by them at Melville, NY because of poor white balance but did not have
all the pieces to the puzzle in hand at the time.

They set the camera to "factory specs" and when I manually select the
"Flash" white balance setting the images have perfect color balance.
Some would say: "Just like a Kodak"! :-)

Charles Prichard
[email protected]
-------------------------------------------
I am having a very difficult time getting proper color on my 950.
Currently I am in Sedona photographing amongst the "red rocks". However,
the color coming off the 950 is terrible. The scenery is cyan.

I've tried other white point settings with no luck. Is almost like the
color balance on the camera is compltetly off on half of my shots, but I
don't know which ones it will be.
The shot below is taken in a relatively shaded area. Any ideas would be
appreciated.

Low Res Example:



--
[email protected]
David, Looking at the image, I feel it is pretty good. Considering that
the scenery was illuminated by blue sky, the color rendition actually
seems quite accurate. If you want to change the color balance to reflect
the way your eyes perceived the scene, you'll have to add some yellow;
everything should then fall into place.
An analogy could be drawn with a photo of an indoor scene illuminated
with regular lightbulbs (tungsten). The camera yields a very orange-red
image, which is in fact the real color. Your brain automatically "filters
out" the excess orange light to achieve what seems to be a normal color
balance in your mind. The same thing happened with your picture, but
inversely: the scene was very blue, but your mind "filtered out" the
blue. The camera did not know that it was supposed to do this to make you
happy! The mid-reading firmware is not yet ready!
Fortunately any decent image editing program will allow you to correct
the exposure to values that more closely match your memory of the scene.
Everybody who edits images does this to some degree. Welcome to the club!
regards
Robert Jeantet
David, I know your problem, the same with my 950. I've expressed my
findings & there have been a lot of hot debates in this forum. My
conclusion is Nikon 950 WB is not up to satisfactory to those
photographers the camera is aimed for. The firmware upgrade does improve
the problem but not yet satisfy me. 950 is my second camera, it is very
capable except colour is off a bit, sometimes it has a blue or cyan
casting, the colour is not vivid enough to reproduce the actual colour.
My Kodak 260, though is a bit outdate & less capable, but its colour is
right on in general, some people (Nikon user) querry it is over
saturated, but my experience is it is quite accurate, the new 290 is a
bit over saturated (after test shot using my friend's new 290), but the
950 is then under-saturated & with somtimes enhanced blue. I've shot 35mm
film & slide with Nikon system over 20 years, those saying the enhanced
blue is due to the blue sky is just mis-leading, what cause the colour
shift is colour temperature, a cloudy day or under shadow area suffer
form the cooler (higher) colour temperature, the effect is not serious as
in the case of 950 and can be corrected easily using a skylight filter,
you even sdon't need the filter if you shoot negative film, the colour
balance can be corrected in the print process.

My solution is use the Flash WB, which suppress blue & enhance red (flash
has higher colour temperature), then adjust a little in PS to restore
original colour. If you try to correct the colour balance in the photo
shown, you will get unnatural looking since the colour depth is only 256
levels, too much adjusting may cause gradation not smooth.

What's my next step, I just wait for Nikon to do something on WB through
firmware upgrade, since the investment on another DC is not worth to. I
use 950 to shoot macro & still objects, I use 260 to shoot people & those
with vibrant colour, its a compromise but nothing can do except waiting
for another upgrade firmware. May be I'll switch to another brand if
Nikon never could improve it due to technical reasons. At least I'll buy
new DC until the next wave, say, 3.3 Mpixels which is a worthy jump from
950. I just upgrade my PC from 486 to PII350 just one & a half years
which is a great & worthy jump.

Above is just my two cents comments.
To my experience, the 950 firmware V1.3 do improve the WB a lot, I've shot a series of pictures to test the WB including auto, flash, preset, sunny, cloudy, fluorescent, I'm quite satisfied (not impressed) with the auto & preset WB, I'm satisfied with them in most lighting conditions. What still bother me is the cloudy & sunny WB which don't seemed perform in its expected way. Fluorescent & incandescent need some matching with the colour temperature of the source which vary from one to another. Anyway, the auto is good for most lighting & the preset is good for critical mixed light though it's quite boring to preset it before shooting.
Investigating the histogram graph, I'm sure Nikon has stretched the range to 0 & 255, giving a more contrasty result, less flatter look. I think its OK because Nikon's exposure system is quite accurate in most case & won't cause too much loss in highlighted & darkened area. In version 1.1, I found Nikon is conservative that the range is compressed to avoid washing out or darkened but the picture is a bit flatter, although you can stretch it it PS manually or using auto level adjust, but the limited depth (0-255) may sometimes cause unsmooth gradation, give a strange look. Now I can set to standard image mode & use the contrast+, contrast-, bright+ & bright- to modify the final effect. Before I always set to the contrast+ mode to avoid a flatter look picture.

My conclusion is, 950 with V1.3 is now quite good (in the standard of a consumer grade DC), the colour balance, contrast, exposure accuracy satisfy me, there is still room for improvement, but this makes the 950 still one of the top image quality 2Mpixel DC in the market. As for features, user would choose according to his preference.

Could the V1.4 upgrade would make 950 more perfect ? I think Nikon hear what we have said here & make effort to improve their products. So folks please continue posting your complain & suggestion in this forum. I would recomment upgrading to V1.3 if you don't satisfy with the WB of V1.1 & V1.2. I hope my findings give help.

Best regards!
Francis.
 
Thanks for the input. Should I not be expecting any analogy between
digital color rendition and that of film? In the pic below it the sky
wasn't really blue - very very light blue at best. The richness of the
colors on the rocks was unbelievable. I wouldn't exepct to capture all
of it, but I didn't get any of it.
David, I know your problem, the same with my 950. I've expressed my
findings & there have been a lot of hot debates in this forum. My
conclusion is Nikon 950 WB is not up to satisfactory to those
photographers the camera is aimed for. The firmware upgrade does improve
the problem but not yet satisfy me. 950 is my second camera, it is very
capable except colour is off a bit, sometimes it has a blue or cyan
casting, the colour is not vivid enough to reproduce the actual colour.
My Kodak 260, though is a bit outdate & less capable, but its colour is
right on in general, some people (Nikon user) querry it is over
saturated, but my experience is it is quite accurate, the new 290 is a
bit over saturated (after test shot using my friend's new 290), but the
950 is then under-saturated & with somtimes enhanced blue. I've shot 35mm
film & slide with Nikon system over 20 years, those saying the enhanced
blue is due to the blue sky is just mis-leading, what cause the colour
shift is colour temperature, a cloudy day or under shadow area suffer
form the cooler (higher) colour temperature, the effect is not serious as
in the case of 950 and can be corrected easily using a skylight filter,
you even sdon't need the filter if you shoot negative film, the colour
balance can be corrected in the print process.

My solution is use the Flash WB, which suppress blue & enhance red (flash
has higher colour temperature), then adjust a little in PS to restore
original colour. If you try to correct the colour balance in the photo
shown, you will get unnatural looking since the colour depth is only 256
levels, too much adjusting may cause gradation not smooth.

What's my next step, I just wait for Nikon to do something on WB through
firmware upgrade, since the investment on another DC is not worth to. I
use 950 to shoot macro & still objects, I use 260 to shoot people & those
with vibrant colour, its a compromise but nothing can do except waiting
for another upgrade firmware. May be I'll switch to another brand if
Nikon never could improve it due to technical reasons. At least I'll buy
new DC until the next wave, say, 3.3 Mpixels which is a worthy jump from
950. I just upgrade my PC from 486 to PII350 just one & a half years
which is a great & worthy jump.
David: [ if you read this message] You definitely should be able to capture a good deal of the true color of the rocks. The notion that the scene as captured by your digicam is somehow about right as some say is nonsense - as I'm sure your intuition tells you. The following thread sheds some light on the subject of color accuracy of digicams vs the eye:
http://photo.askey.net/forums/read.asp?forum=1007&message=46690
Fred H.


Francis:

Well thought out and well put. I wish some other regular visitors at the site were as level-headed and reasoned as you. The suggestion to use flash WB seems like a good work-around to the problem. It would be interesting to know if others have come up with similar or possibly better solutions to the problem.

Fred H.
 

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top