Film v Digital

Hi Gilbert,

The film was scanned directly from the negative. This was done
purposefully so that an intermediate step wasn't introduced.

I could of course take the film and print it in my darkroom and
also produce a print from the digital image. But, what is the
point of then scanning both to post? That will only show the
limitations of an Inkjet printer comapred to a wet-process.

A much better solution (and one which I will get around to when I
have a suficient gap in my workload) is to photograph exactly the
same image on film and digital at the same ISO. I will probably
include MF too.

As for the cheap 1hr labs... I've seen some of the results that
friends have had done - we usually end up scanning & printing on
inkjet (or use the darkroom if it isn't in use for normal work).
Our results are still better than a lab who just takes your money
and hands you a call & collect slip.

Kevin
I am lucky to live in a place where there're over 10 labs within every 1 KM so it's fairly easy to locate a not too bad lab due to competition and most of them print it the old way. I think your test especially make good sense if talking about doing home studio in somewhere man power is very expensive.
--
Gilbert
 
And anyway I am going digital soon, would probably buy 2 bodys in the upcoming 2 years for film cost saving reason because I like to shoot continueous shots, LOL.

I think there's no need to prove digital being superior than films. Digital is worth it for film cost saving reason as long as it gives acceptable results.

--
Gilbert
 
Ed... he's just a "pixie" (digital convert who tried to excuse all of his poor film experiences on AA filters, pixel size and Dmax etc. instead of poor technique and inexperience). A wealth of knowledge on the ignorant is likely to only result in real world photographers being vaporized in some future trivial epic in Geekland instead of the real oxygen thieves - the creators!

Incidentally I shoot Provia at 100!
Sean,

I hope you don't mind, but I am supplying a stand-in photograph
crop for you untill you post yours.

Here, again, is my Provia 100F @ ISO 200 (exposed at EI 200 and
push processed one f/stop), 4000 ppi scan, actual pixels crop. It
is the one where I applied unsharpen mask parameters of Amount:
350%; Radius: 0.3 pixels; Levels: 0.

By the way, you never commented on this, but clearly it is much
less "grainy" than the Provia 100F samples that you posted. (and
those were supposed to be taken at ISO 100, no less) You, of
course, might prefer to think I am crying "foul"...okay, perhaps
what you posted was done by someone inept instead.

All right, here's mine:



from this link:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1005&message=4695834

Now for the one that will temporarily stand-in for the one you will
provide. I'm sorry, I will not embed it, it was not my original
image. But the parameters are that it was taken with a Fuji S2 by
a professional photographer in the 'fine' jpeg 12 megapixel mode.
(resulting in a 4.9 megabyte jpeg file) Oh, at ISO 100
unfortunately, so it has an unfair quality advantage over mine. As
per the instructions I left for you, I uprezzed it so the long
dimension was 5669 pixels (the same as a full 35mm frame scanned at
4000 ppi), and Photoshop unsharpen mask was applied with the same
parameters stated above:
http://www.blackmallard.com/digital/proxy.jpg

It has been cropped to the same dimensions as my crop, and you
should see that it contains elements related to mine, though not
exactly the same. Also, I saved the crop with the very minimum
compression Photoshop allowed, unlike mine. Your proxy has roughly
two times the file size as my crop...I tend to play more than fair.

I hope this clears up your perceptions...

My best,

Ed

--
http://www.blackmallard.com/cal_ls/
California Light and Structure

http://www.blackmallard.com/o_barn/
One Barn
 
Hi Gilbert,

No offence was taken - the comparison was to illustrate what could be acheived by many users in this forum.

For exhibition work I still use 6x6 Rolleiflex. I feel it leads to a more relaxed way of working.

As you say though, DSLRs do save money on film! I've carried my F5 as a backup to the S2 and I can't really remember using it since the S2 arriived in the office last June. :-)

Kevin
And anyway I am going digital soon, would probably buy 2 bodys in
the upcoming 2 years for film cost saving reason because I like to
shoot continueous shots, LOL.

I think there's no need to prove digital being superior than films.
Digital is worth it for film cost saving reason as long as it gives
acceptable results.

--
Gilbert
--
Kevin P Kitching
 
Ed,

As a film and Digital user, I appreciate your comparison. My personal experience and testing with my Poloroid SprintScan 120 and S2 confirmed for me that 35mm film can still have a slight advantage depending on the film used(Provia RDP 111) and the Subject matter WHEN SHOT UNDER OPTIMAL CONDITIONS. Digital just falls down when shooting landscapes and sized up. Conversely, when shooting people, the s2 file will size up very nicely. Shoot at ASA 400 or higher in mixed lighting, and film starts falling behind fast in my experience. I doubt anyone would disagree that Digital a more versatile photographic tool under a variety of conditions.

By the way, your link to a Jpeg S2 file is not a very good comparison as any S2 user knows that you will get a noiceable improvement in sharpness and less artifacts shooting RAW and converting with the Fuji EX converter. Also of high importance is the means used to size a digital file up. Photoshop just will not cut it on its own. PhotoZoom Pro(S-Spline) for me or some like Q-image.

Tariq
Tariq.com
Sean,

I hope you don't mind, but I am supplying a stand-in photograph
crop for you untill you post yours.

Here, again, is my Provia 100F @ ISO 200 (exposed at EI 200 and
push processed one f/stop), 4000 ppi scan, actual pixels crop. It
is the one where I applied unsharpen mask parameters of Amount:
350%; Radius: 0.3 pixels; Levels: 0.

By the way, you never commented on this, but clearly it is much
less "grainy" than the Provia 100F samples that you posted. (and
those were supposed to be taken at ISO 100, no less) You, of
course, might prefer to think I am crying "foul"...okay, perhaps
what you posted was done by someone inept instead.

All right, here's mine:



from this link:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1005&message=4695834

Now for the one that will temporarily stand-in for the one you will
provide. I'm sorry, I will not embed it, it was not my original
image. But the parameters are that it was taken with a Fuji S2 by
a professional photographer in the 'fine' jpeg 12 megapixel mode.
(resulting in a 4.9 megabyte jpeg file) Oh, at ISO 100
unfortunately, so it has an unfair quality advantage over mine. As
per the instructions I left for you, I uprezzed it so the long
dimension was 5669 pixels (the same as a full 35mm frame scanned at
4000 ppi), and Photoshop unsharpen mask was applied with the same
parameters stated above:
http://www.blackmallard.com/digital/proxy.jpg

It has been cropped to the same dimensions as my crop, and you
should see that it contains elements related to mine, though not
exactly the same. Also, I saved the crop with the very minimum
compression Photoshop allowed, unlike mine. Your proxy has roughly
two times the file size as my crop...I tend to play more than fair.

I hope this clears up your perceptions...

My best,

Ed

--
http://www.blackmallard.com/cal_ls/
California Light and Structure

http://www.blackmallard.com/o_barn/
One Barn
 
By the way, your link to a Jpeg S2 file is not a very good
comparison
Tariq,

As I said, it's a stand-in till Sean provides the real thing. But what I provided was exactly what I said it was. A crop of an S2's very best Jpeg mode mapped onto the precise sample space of a full 35mm frame, and sharpened in the precise same way my crop was sharpened.

And I'm a landscape photographer (if you've looked at my linked galleries); I had seen Sean state that he is as well, so the comparison is fully appropriate. And since you've found my post you know exactly why I'm doing it...Sean keeps posting, over and over and over, a set of photographs he no doubt fully believes is a good comparison between S2 and film technologies. And it's complete trash. Unfortunately, the innocent will not know that...after all, Sean seems not to know it.

Hey, Sean is fortunate. After all, Provia 100F is no longer the fine-grain slide film champ. I could be posting a crop of Astia 100F exposed at its rated ISO 100 (rather than the pushed to EI 200 I am experimenting with for Astia 100F). Astia 100F @ ISO 100 should smoke Provia 100F push processed one f/stop.

But then, it's always good to leave a little headroom in these fracases...

My best,

Ed

--
http://www.blackmallard.com/cal_ls/
California Light and Structure

http://www.blackmallard.com/o_barn/
One Barn
 
Yeah, I better not break out any of my Kodak Techpan negatives either. ;-)
Hey, Sean is fortunate. After all, Provia 100F is no longer the
fine-grain slide film champ. I could be posting a crop of Astia
100F exposed at its rated ISO 100 (rather than the pushed to EI 200
I am experimenting with for Astia 100F). Astia 100F @ ISO 100
should smoke Provia 100F push processed one f/stop.

But then, it's always good to leave a little headroom in these
fracases...
My best,
Ed
--
http://www.blackmallard.com/cal_ls/
California Light and Structure
http://www.blackmallard.com/o_barn/
 
I shot TechPan for many years. Really beautiful stuff if one takes the time to master it. Shooting at ASA 25-40, developing in Photographers Formulary TD-3 for something like 25Minutes to control it's outrageous contrast....Talk about a film which requires optimal conditions. Great 20x24's though when met. I think I would prefer a flogging to shooting and processing it again though.

Tariq
Tariq.com
Hey, Sean is fortunate. After all, Provia 100F is no longer the
fine-grain slide film champ. I could be posting a crop of Astia
100F exposed at its rated ISO 100 (rather than the pushed to EI 200
I am experimenting with for Astia 100F). Astia 100F @ ISO 100
should smoke Provia 100F push processed one f/stop.

But then, it's always good to leave a little headroom in these
fracases...
My best,
Ed
--
http://www.blackmallard.com/cal_ls/
California Light and Structure
http://www.blackmallard.com/o_barn/
 
I shot TechPan for many years. Really beautiful stuff if one takes
the time to master it. Shooting at ASA 25-40, developing in
Photographers Formulary TD-3 for something like 25Minutes to
control it's outrageous contrast....Talk about a film which
requires optimal conditions. Great 20x24's though when met. I
think I would prefer a flogging to shooting and processing it again
though.

Tariq
Tariq.com
Funny you would say that. When I shot, developed and printed my first one, it was such a none event and couldn't figure out what all the fuss was about and here you say it too? The only part that was any hassle was I couldn't see any grain with the grain enlarger up through the largest magnification I could get - 20 X 30. Contrast was well under control at ISO25 when using Technidol. Optimal conditions . . . good 'L' lens and a tripod and not a big deal. As far as flogging then using it . . . didn't you see what happens to flesh in Mel's new movie?
 
LesDMess wrote:
As far as flogging then using it . . . didn't you see what
happens to flesh in Mel's new movie?
No interest in watching a Man be tortured to Death for 2 hours. Glad you enjoyed shooting Techpan and found it so easy to control. I would bet you are one of the few. I mastered it but it took some testing to nail the density range I wanted. I shot with a T90 and a L lenses as well by the way. My favorite was the 85mm 1.2 and using the 300tl flash to drag the shutter for portraits.

Tariq
 
Glad you enjoyed shooting Techpan and found it so easy to control.
I would bet you are one of the few. I mastered it but it took some
testing to nail the density range I wanted.
The first roll and subsequent rolls have been none events and I anticipate the future rolls will continue to be the same. I believe it is not as popular due to the required use of Kodak Technidol to develop for optimal results. I have by no means "mastered" it or any other film as I am brand new to film myself. Although I've shot just over 300 rolls, I have only used a few dozen rolls of a few brands.
 
Okay Ed,

Sorry it took so long... this is not the best example, but more than enough under the circumstances... I meant to go take a shot similar to yours, but I have been too busy lately. I used this image today to compare ACR to the EX converter and I decided to do your comparison for you as well using the same image that I picked at random for the other comparison since I already had it ready to go and it seems to meet your criteria of high frequency detail.

Here they are:

Here is the crop:



here is your crop:



Here is mine sharpened using USM .3 at 350%:



And yours sharpened same settings:



Here is where I cropped:



here is where you cropped:



I think we can agree there is plenty of high frequency branches here.

No sharpening in camera or during conversion. You can see how there are much less artifacts when RAW is used, unlike the "Stand in" that you chose that looks just horrible and is in no way representative of what the S2 can do.

Personally, I think your sample and my sample are pretty close, what do you think? And I must admit, your sample is better than any scan or enlargment I have ever gotten from film.

Here is a version resized down to 3mp size to give you an idea of the detail in this shot, but you should see the resized up version.... just let me know:

http://www.pbase.com/image/26943554

If you (or anyone else) wants to see the full size resized to 5669 pixels wide, let me know and I will e-mail it to you. (please do ask... I would really like to share it... and hear your honest opinions of its resolution because I think you have not been looking at good samples from the S2) There is no noise at all in the image. By the way, this was taken handheld with my AF-S 24-85 3.5-4.5 G lens at 35mm... so not the best glass in the world either. I would also love to see your image at its full size as well.

You also might want to look at this thread:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1020&message=8005723

In it it shows the detail gains one gets with using the EX converter with RAW over ACR 2.1 (using this image as an example). I know you do not own the S2 Ed... and most of the samples you have seen are from JPEG from the camera.... well just to put it in perspective... JPEG is even worse than Photoshop RAW converter 2.1 for resolution/artifacts. So if the EX is this much better than ACR 2.1.... imagine how much better it is over JPEG. Maybe you have not been entirely fair in your views about the S2 since you seem to think that "stand in" you provided is typical of what the S2 can do.

Regards,
Sean
 
For landscapes, I still shoot a
lot of 4X5 and 6X17 and leave my fuji at home.
i do the same,- the fuji cannt compare to 6x17 drumscanned images, thats clear. but a tool who does an outstanding job for this is the 14n. it can compare with 6x9 drumscanned cromes. you will find little bit more detail in the film, but the image in total from the 14n is not worther......i.m.o.
 
Sorry, but I cannot agree.... You are getting ripped off with your scans. My Minolta Scan Multi Pro on 6X7 kicks the 14n out of the window every time. In fact, I tried a loaner 14n a couple of weeks ago and I really cannot get too excited - I still think my Fuji is a more useful tool (it helps that the ergonomics are not so bad that I can actually pick it up and take a shot....). The artifacting on the 14n must be seen to be believed...
lot of 4X5 and 6X17 and leave my fuji at home.
i do the same,- the fuji cannt compare to 6x17 drumscanned images,
thats clear. but a tool who does an outstanding job for this is the
14n. it can compare with 6x9 drumscanned cromes. you will find
little bit more detail in the film, but the image in total from the
14n is not worther......i.m.o.
 
Okay Ed,

Sorry it took so long... this is not the best example, but more
than enough under the circumstances... I meant to go take a shot
similar to yours, but I have been too busy lately. I used this
image today to compare ACR to the EX converter and I decided to do
your comparison for you as well using the same image that I picked
at random for the other comparison since I already had it ready to
go and it seems to meet your criteria of high frequency detail.

Here they are:

Here is the crop:



here is your crop:



Here is mine sharpened using USM .3 at 350%:



And yours sharpened same settings:



Here is where I cropped:



here is where you cropped:



I think we can agree there is plenty of high frequency branches here.

No sharpening in camera or during conversion. You can see how
there are much less artifacts when RAW is used, unlike the "Stand
in" that you chose that looks just horrible and is in no way
representative of what the S2 can do.

Personally, I think your sample and my sample are pretty close,
what do you think? And I must admit, your sample is better than any
scan or enlargment I have ever gotten from film.

Here is a version resized down to 3mp size to give you an idea of
the detail in this shot, but you should see the resized up
version.... just let me know:

http://www.pbase.com/image/26943554

If you (or anyone else) wants to see the full size resized to 5669
pixels wide, let me know and I will e-mail it to you. (please do
ask... I would really like to share it... and hear your honest
opinions of its resolution because I think you have not been
looking at good samples from the S2) There is no noise at all in
the image. By the way, this was taken handheld with my AF-S 24-85
3.5-4.5 G lens at 35mm... so not the best glass in the world
either. I would also love to see your image at its full size as
well.

You also might want to look at this thread:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1020&message=8005723

In it it shows the detail gains one gets with using the EX
converter with RAW over ACR 2.1 (using this image as an example). I
know you do not own the S2 Ed... and most of the samples you have
seen are from JPEG from the camera.... well just to put it in
perspective... JPEG is even worse than Photoshop RAW converter 2.1
for resolution/artifacts. So if the EX is this much better than ACR
2.1.... imagine how much better it is over JPEG. Maybe you have not
been entirely fair in your views about the S2 since you seem to
think that "stand in" you provided is typical of what the S2 can do.

Regards,
Sean
 
Sean,

It looked to me like you handheld yours even before I saw your statement that you did. Well, I hoped what I was seeing wasn't entirely the fault of the S2, believe it or not, it is a camera I like as far as digitals go. Some tremendous photographers I truly respect use one, my own sister got one for professional use on my recommendation. I'd hoped that your example would serve it better. It doesn't. But then I gave you a challenge that even a raw converted SLR/n seems to fail. (yeah, I could show you examples, though they are a trifle more subtle than yours)

Film can fail high frequency too, there is a hint of that in my sample, but it at least does it in a manner that can be taken to be realistic. With digital the Beyered pixels start bleeding into each other, and the failure is one that looks in no way natural. Though, no doubt, in a print the failure could be overlooked by someone who didn't know what to look for.

Okay, here's what I see in yours (could be some degradation due to the additional editing and saving, but it was saved from Photoshop with the minimum compression allowed:



green 1) A high contrast region that should put digital at its best (by the way, you didn't state the ISO value you shot at, can I take it to be ISO 100? It looks that way. - As you know, I shot at ISO 200). Anyway, the branches are respectably fine, but they are somewhat blurred--the reason I took the photograph to be handheld. But there's some digital going on as well. To the left of the more distinct branches, there's a light, though faint, echo of each branch...lighter than the general snow in between the branches--that is not a motion effect.

red 1, 2, 3) Digital does respectable edges, but he helps if they are separated from other edges by some width, that way the particular way that digital fails high frequency doesn't work against it so much. But often enough, it is acutance (a time-honored photographic enhancement) that makes the edges have a specific type of "sharpness", making them stand out more. The other thing digital does reasonably well is broad areas without much color differentiation. Though of course "broad" must be considered in light of Beyer-grouping size...one reason some of Teddy Bear's work looked so impressive...some edges, regions of non-detail and low color differentation. It didn't hurt that for the film side he used a grain-emphasizing Nikon scanner (all Nikon scanners do that, as I said), and didn't do a sensible job of frame mapping. In any comparison, the frame with fewer pixels must be mapped to the larger frame. But enough of that, you are not dumb, perhaps you are starting to see that.

Anyway, in the red-circled regions (and outside of them in truth), you should be able to see that although threre are some lighter notes giving the appearance of a little detail, and perhaps texture, similarly colored regions have gotten very "smeary" in the way they look. Sure it's to be expected when things get too similar, but the whole point of this was to look at the S2 with respect to film. There are ways you haven't been fair enough to the S2, unfortunately, but in my film crop even though some of the low grassy background has lost significant detail, it has not started to smear. Of course, in regions of fairly constant color the smearing may not be so noticible in digital, one reason that portraits can work out so well. And people don't always know that there is truly more to see.

Thank you for the comparison, it has been enlightening. But a little bit one sided I'm afraid.

My best,

Ed

ps. I didn't want to, but I'm going to have to do some snipping below for Phil.
[snip]
Here they are:

Here is the crop:



here is your crop:



Here is mine sharpened using USM .3 at 350%:



And yours sharpened same settings:



Here is where I cropped:



here is where you cropped:



I think we can agree there is plenty of high frequency branches here.

No sharpening in camera or during conversion. You can see how
there are much less artifacts when RAW is used, unlike the "Stand
in" that you chose that looks just horrible and is in no way
representative of what the S2 can do.

Personally, I think your sample and my sample are pretty close,
what do you think? And I must admit, your sample is better than any
scan or enlargment I have ever gotten from film.

Here is a version resized down to 3mp size to give you an idea of
the detail in this shot, but you should see the resized up
version.... just let me know:

http://www.pbase.com/image/26943554
[snip]
By the way, this was taken handheld with my AF-S 24-85
3.5-4.5 G lens at 35mm... so not the best glass in the world
either. I would also love to see your image at its full size as
well.

You also might want to look at this thread:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1020&message=8005723
[snip]

I knew the stand-in looked terrible, and I truly hoped it was not at all representative of what the S2 could do. It had far too many jpeg artifacts for one thing. But I have nowdoubt you know where the image came from (I have seen your site), and it really was the best I was able to readily put my hands on. And the most appropriate for its comparitive elements (wires, poles, vegitation)
Regards,
Sean
 
Sorry, but I cannot agree.... You are getting ripped off with your
scans. My Minolta Scan Multi Pro on 6X7 kicks the 14n out of the
window every time.
maybee your minolta is better than my scanmate500 drumscanner,- or i dont no to use it...? no seriously,- i know to use it and the scanmate surely is better......
In fact, I tried a loaner 14n a couple of weeks
ago and I really cannot get too excited - I still think my Fuji is
a more useful tool (it helps that the ergonomics are not so bad
that I can actually pick it up and take a shot....).
clearly the s2 is the much more usefull tool, and it is a "one for all" camera. i love mine. there is no comparation to the kodak, the 14n is a completely different concept. it is more than a studio midformat back with many limitations and you NEED postproduction for good images.
even if i would have loaned a 14n 2weeks i still would have thrown it away.

this was the time i needed to become slowly familiar with the handicaps or "workarounds" the camera has. i tried so many lenses till i found a couple of good ones.....

this camera needs a lot of time to find the knowledge how to work with it. if it would not have than an exceptional good image quality, i would not have holded it..... i think it is not a good tool for "hobby" shooting.... cauise it is too limitated. it is than velvia film, for lo-light shots you usually take another type of film.
artifacting on the 14n must be seen to be believed...
as i said above.... you will find that you can remove this kind of artifacts completely with converting in ps acr2.1 and using the color sliders and the CA sliders correctly.
lot of 4X5 and 6X17 and leave my fuji at home.
i do the same,- the fuji cannt compare to 6x17 drumscanned images,
thats clear. but a tool who does an outstanding job for this is the
14n. it can compare with 6x9 drumscanned cromes. you will find
little bit more detail in the film, but the image in total from the
14n is not worther......i.m.o.
 
I'm not sure what "worther" means, but I can assure you that I shoot a lot of landscape with a Mamiya 7 on 6X7 Velvia (mostly) and when scanned at 3200DPI on my horrible Minolta Scan Multi Pro, the images are far superior to the tests I did with the 14n outdoors - not close, but a long way better. I should think that with a good drum scan (and I mean with a full time professional operator, because I believe that's what is required to get good results from these machines) one should expect to see a whole lot more between the scanned 6X9 (a whole lot bigger than 6X7) and a 14n.
Sorry, but I cannot agree.... You are getting ripped off with your
scans. My Minolta Scan Multi Pro on 6X7 kicks the 14n out of the
window every time.
maybee your minolta is better than my scanmate500 drumscanner,- or
i dont no to use it...? no seriously,- i know to use it and the
scanmate surely is better......
In fact, I tried a loaner 14n a couple of weeks
ago and I really cannot get too excited - I still think my Fuji is
a more useful tool (it helps that the ergonomics are not so bad
that I can actually pick it up and take a shot....).
clearly the s2 is the much more usefull tool, and it is a "one for
all" camera. i love mine. there is no comparation to the kodak, the
14n is a completely different concept. it is more than a studio
midformat back with many limitations and you NEED postproduction
for good images.
even if i would have loaned a 14n 2weeks i still would have thrown
it away.
this was the time i needed to become slowly familiar with the
handicaps or "workarounds" the camera has. i tried so many lenses
till i found a couple of good ones.....
this camera needs a lot of time to find the knowledge how to work
with it. if it would not have than an exceptional good image
quality, i would not have holded it..... i think it is not a good
tool for "hobby" shooting.... cauise it is too limitated. it is
than velvia film, for lo-light shots you usually take another type
of film.
artifacting on the 14n must be seen to be believed...
as i said above.... you will find that you can remove this kind of
artifacts completely with converting in ps acr2.1 and using the
color sliders and the CA sliders correctly.
lot of 4X5 and 6X17 and leave my fuji at home.
i do the same,- the fuji cannt compare to 6x17 drumscanned images,
thats clear. but a tool who does an outstanding job for this is the
14n. it can compare with 6x9 drumscanned cromes. you will find
little bit more detail in the film, but the image in total from the
14n is not worther......i.m.o.
 
Ed Leys wrote:
Snipped
Here is the link of the image you posted above so you can read it:
See that the name of the file is "CROPSHARPENED" Hmmm no wonder there is a halo around the branches... it is the sharpened version.

Look at the other image I posted, zoom in.... if you think there are halos at 300% your eyes are fooling you... when you zoom in you can see there are no halos or light ghost areas.

There have been so many requests to see the full size image that I will just post it when I get home tonight (around 9pm pacific time) You will be able to see the whole image... and I would like to hear comments.
green 1) A high contrast region that should put digital at its best
(by the way, you didn't state the ISO value you shot at, can I take
it to be ISO 100? It looks that way. - As you know, I shot at ISO
200). Anyway, the branches are respectably fine, but they are
somewhat blurred--the reason I took the photograph to be handheld.
But there's some digital going on as well. To the left of the more
distinct branches, there's a light, though faint, echo of each
branch...lighter than the general snow in between the
branches--that is not a motion effect.
See above... you mistakenly were looking at the sharpened version that you requested.

snipped some stuff Ed said that was important... but no room... dang the character limit.
Anyway, in the red-circled regions (and outside of them in truth),
you should be able to see that although threre are some lighter
notes giving the appearance of a little detail, and perhaps
texture, similarly colored regions have gotten very "smeary" in the
way they look. Sure it's to be expected when things get too
similar, but the whole point of this was to look at the S2 with
respect to film.
more important stuff snipped.

Well those areas you circled are very low contrast and dark... not a good place to look for detail, and I know from experience that film would not have done much better with those areas... and the grain would have made the detail there even worse. I do not see how this looks fake... sorry. I probably chose a poor area to post, but it was the best place that showed branches of the same relative size as those in your shot. This is the problem with not meeting and comparing image to image... we have no reference to how your film would handle the areas you circled above, and if you get that nitpicky about it without having the film to compare to you are being unfair, as we have no way to really judge how film would have handled this image. Now if we both agreed to photograph something common and post results so that we could compare directly and do this scientifically then we could make better judgments, no? We can argue until we are blue in the face about film vs. the S2... but unless you shoot the same image back to back as Teddy did, it is hard to really judge.

Personally I, (and others apparently... why they have not posted here I have no idea) think our two samples are so close as this comparison to make it a wash, especially as they are not very similar shots. (my fault... I will try to post a better comparison eventually... but in the meantime it is definitely better than your stand in) Again, I point you to the full size image that I will post tonight. There is plenty of detail in this image, and these images are not even close to being the same.. I just posted it because it was convienent. If we really wanted to compare we would do what I suggested, meet and take photos together and compare. It would be fun... and I am sure at least one of us would learn a lot ( that would be me as you are much more skilled than I).
But a little bit one sided I'm afraid.
I do not see how film won in this case... most people who e-mailed me for the full size sample have said that it appears to them that the S2 has as much or more detail, they look pretty equal... and they want to see the full size image to see what the rest of the image looks like. So far yours has been the only response I have gotten that has said that Film is much better.
I knew the stand-in looked terrible, and I truly hoped it was not
at all representative of what the S2 could do. It had far too many
jpeg artifacts for one thing.
Fine... but if that was the best image you could get as an example of the S2 output, no wonder you do not appreciate how good the S2 is. That image is horrible. Not to mention that although I have a lot of experience, I do not claim to be an expert photographer either, although I think I am pretty good , I am sure others who do this for their living can make the S2 do a lot better than I. Yes, I know I am not in the same league as you Ed, not even close... and I do not say that sarcastically at all, you have great photos on your site! I admire your skill, and I can say with all honesty that I am nowhere near the photographer that you are. That said... my "website" was just a PBASE account that I set up so I could post comparisons... none of the images on there are images I am particulaly proud of, and they were all posted just for comparison purposes. Eventually I will set up a gallery though ;). And although you have the superior skills, I still have plenty of experience with film, and I can tell you in all honesty I have never gotten as good results from any kind of film, from any pro lab development or even in my own darkroom, than I can get from my S2 now. Maybe that says something about me, not film or the S2, who knows... all I am saying is that for me, there is no contest.

So what do you say Ed? Want to meet and go on a photo safari for a weekend with me sometime? We can compare photos, and have a fun time.
 

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