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To dry mount or not to dry mount?

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mroda

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I am not pleased with the orange peal effect on my prints after getting them dry mounted, especially on black areas of the print. Not sure if the dry mounting place is applying too much heat or what.

So I'm wondering if I should just skip the dry mounting and frame as is. At what size do you think dry mounting is a must? Certainly 16x20 would need dry mounting, but I'm wondering if I can get away with not dry mounting 11x14s and smaller.

Mike

--
http://www.pbase.com/mroda
 
mroda said:
I am not pleased with the orange peal effect on my prints after
getting them dry mounted, especially on black areas of the print.
Not sure if the dry mounting place is applying too much heat or
what.

So I'm wondering if I should just skip the dry mounting and frame
as is. At what size do you think dry mounting is a must? Certainly
16x20 would need dry mounting, but I'm wondering if I can get away
with not dry mounting 11x14s and smaller.

Mike

--
http://www.pbase.com/mroda
Click to expand...
digital prints don't like being dry mounted because of the heat. Generally only silver based black and white prints stand the process well. Color (traditional prints) prints need a lower temp with special drymount tissue that needs less heat. Digital prints are less tolerant. Mount on the backing board with linen tape.
--
Chris Crawford

http://www.crawfordandkline.com
Featured in the November, 2003 issue
Popular Photography
 
mroda said:
I am not pleased with the orange peal effect on my prints after
getting them dry mounted, especially on black areas of the print.
Not sure if the dry mounting place is applying too much heat or
what.

So I'm wondering if I should just skip the dry mounting and frame
as is. At what size do you think dry mounting is a must? Certainly
16x20 would need dry mounting, but I'm wondering if I can get away
with not dry mounting 11x14s and smaller.

Mike
Click to expand...
Mike,

11x14s will sag too if not mounted fairly firmly. In fact, so will 8x10s. Some people use double sided tape to mount to the backboard, or straight tape along the top edge to the backboard and let the print hang free behind the decoritive matte, but I like to use acid free spray adheasive. I spray the backboard and the back of the print for a permanent mount job.

You can spray one side if you want to lift the print off again at some point in time, though for temporary mounting I would probably tape the print .

David
mroda said:
--
http://www.pbase.com/mroda
Click to expand...
 
Christopher Crawford said:
mroda said:
I am not pleased with the orange peal effect on my prints after
getting them dry mounted, especially on black areas of the print.
Not sure if the dry mounting place is applying too much heat or
what.

So I'm wondering if I should just skip the dry mounting and frame
as is. At what size do you think dry mounting is a must? Certainly
16x20 would need dry mounting, but I'm wondering if I can get away
with not dry mounting 11x14s and smaller.

Mike

--
http://www.pbase.com/mroda
Click to expand...
digital prints don't like being dry mounted because of the heat.
Generally only silver based black and white prints stand the
process well. Color (traditional prints) prints need a lower temp
with special drymount tissue that needs less heat. Digital prints
are less tolerant. Mount on the backing board with linen tape.
--
Chris Crawford

http://www.crawfordandkline.com
Featured in the November, 2003 issue
Popular Photography
Click to expand...
I have been using self adhesive foam core with good results, pricey but easy. Am looking for a source larger than 32 x 40 for pana prints -any ideas?
 
I haven't seen it before..
Bruce V Janssen said:
Christopher Crawford said:
mroda said:
I am not pleased with the orange peal effect on my prints after
getting them dry mounted, especially on black areas of the print.
Not sure if the dry mounting place is applying too much heat or
what.

So I'm wondering if I should just skip the dry mounting and frame
as is. At what size do you think dry mounting is a must? Certainly
16x20 would need dry mounting, but I'm wondering if I can get away
with not dry mounting 11x14s and smaller.

Mike

--
http://www.pbase.com/mroda
Click to expand...
digital prints don't like being dry mounted because of the heat.
Generally only silver based black and white prints stand the
process well. Color (traditional prints) prints need a lower temp
with special drymount tissue that needs less heat. Digital prints
are less tolerant. Mount on the backing board with linen tape.
--
Chris Crawford

http://www.crawfordandkline.com
Featured in the November, 2003 issue
Popular Photography
Click to expand...
I have been using self adhesive foam core with good results, pricey
but easy. Am looking for a source larger than 32 x 40 for pana
prints -any ideas?
Click to expand...
--
--
http://www.pbase.com/mroda
 
mroda said:
I haven't seen it before..
Click to expand...
Not to speak for who you actually questioned, but we can buy this locally at any frame shop. I'm sure you can buy it online from a frame company or supplier as well.

One thing though, while the other poster likes it, I've used the Sticky Board version of Foam Core and found it to be very aggressive and difficult to mount to smoothly. Often a bubble can occur and there is no way to work the bubble out once you pass that location while pressing the print out onto the mounting board. If you try and lift the print to relocate you can tear the back paper off the print, actually tear the print or the foam core coating, the tack is that aggressive, and the tack is instant I might add. Also I've found expansion and srinkage during season changes to wrinkle the print, least with the brand I used.

Maybe it's just the brand of Sticky Board I used that caused all this trouble, but I now much prefer using spray adheasive made for mounting photos. This gives a little wiggle room and you can lay it out very smoothly, and I've seen no wrinkles later on either.

Just my take on the matter,
David
 
David Grabowski said:
mroda said:
I am not pleased with the orange peal effect on my prints after
getting them dry mounted, especially on black areas of the print.
Not sure if the dry mounting place is applying too much heat or
what.

So I'm wondering if I should just skip the dry mounting and frame
as is. At what size do you think dry mounting is a must? Certainly
16x20 would need dry mounting, but I'm wondering if I can get away
with not dry mounting 11x14s and smaller.

Mike
Click to expand...
Mike,

11x14s will sag too if not mounted fairly firmly. In fact, so will
8x10s. Some people use double sided tape to mount to the backboard,
or straight tape along the top edge to the backboard and let the
print hang free behind the decoritive matte, but I like to use acid
free spray adheasive. I spray the backboard and the back of the
print for a permanent mount job.

You can spray one side if you want to lift the print off again at
some point in time, though for temporary mounting I would probably
tape the print .

David
David Grabowski said:
--
http://www.pbase.com/mroda
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
mroda said:
I am not pleased with the orange peal effect on my prints after
getting them dry mounted, especially on black areas of the print.
Not sure if the dry mounting place is applying too much heat or
what.

So I'm wondering if I should just skip the dry mounting and frame
as is. At what size do you think dry mounting is a must? Certainly
16x20 would need dry mounting, but I'm wondering if I can get away
with not dry mounting 11x14s and smaller.

Mike

--
http://www.pbase.com/mroda
Click to expand...
Mike,

This is what I have used for a couple of years. It works great for me.

http://www.3m.com/us/mfg_industrial/adhesives/framing/html/scotch6094.jhtml

Has anyone else used this product?
--

'Good judgement comes from experience. Unfortunately, the experience usually comes from bad judgement'. - from an Australian Aviation Magazine.



--
Lawrence
 
Ok, so do I just cut out a piece of foam core board to match the size of the print and then spray both with this adheasive? Or should I mount it first and then cut the board afterward?

Mike
David Grabowski said:
mroda said:
I haven't seen it before..
Click to expand...
Not to speak for who you actually questioned, but we can buy this
locally at any frame shop. I'm sure you can buy it online from a
frame company or supplier as well.

One thing though, while the other poster likes it, I've used the
Sticky Board version of Foam Core and found it to be very
aggressive and difficult to mount to smoothly. Often a bubble can
occur and there is no way to work the bubble out once you pass that
location while pressing the print out onto the mounting board. If
you try and lift the print to relocate you can tear the back paper
off the print, actually tear the print or the foam core coating,
the tack is that aggressive, and the tack is instant I might add.
Also I've found expansion and srinkage during season changes to
wrinkle the print, least with the brand I used.

Maybe it's just the brand of Sticky Board I used that caused all
this trouble, but I now much prefer using spray adheasive made for
mounting photos. This gives a little wiggle room and you can lay
it out very smoothly, and I've seen no wrinkles later on either.

Just my take on the matter,
David
Click to expand...
--
--
http://www.pbase.com/mroda
 
...not so sure I agree with the consensus here.

I’ve taught photography for years and we’ve interchangeably dry mounted both digital and conventional RC B&W photo papers using the same materials. Most commonly I’ve used Seal Colormount Dry Mounting Adhesive. It is a high quality, low(ish) temperature tissue that is designed for Resin Coated paper. As you guessed the biggest problem is the orange peel but that is significantly influenced by the surface texture of the mounting board and to a lesser degree the surface of the platen in the dry mounting press. I always use an interim layer of very smooth illustration board (because its handy) and Seal release paper as a pressure surface. The temperature/time variable is, as always, critical. I always use Epson papers. Your mileage may vary.

I cannot speak to the achievability issues but I strongly suspect that they are the same or similar to RC paper.

For down and dirty mounting you can use the Scotch spray adhesives like Photomount. FWIW in 1972 I “dry mounted" a poster using Scotch Craft Mount. My wife and I had purchased it at the Uffizi Gallery in Florence, Italy while on our honeymoon. I didn’t know any better then. The poster still hangs in our living room…no stains and flat as a board. I’m not recommending that but just that it’s do-able.

Bruce
David Grabowski said:
Lawrence Keeney said:
Mike,

This is what I have used for a couple of years. It works great for me.

http://www.3m.com/us/mfg_industrial/adhesives/framing/html/scotch6094.jhtml

Has anyone else used this product?
Click to expand...
Yes, it's what I just ran out of ! Right now I'm using Elmers acid
free Craft Bond ( reorder #E-422), seems to work about the same as
the 3M which I too have used for years.
David
David Grabowski said:
--
Lawrence
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
I have recently dry mounted a number of Epson semi glossy prints onto foam board with great sucess. I used the boards at a recent trade show and I have not seen any problems at all. Very easy to do.

Sierra Gold
mroda said:
I am not pleased with the orange peal effect on my prints after
getting them dry mounted, especially on black areas of the print.
Not sure if the dry mounting place is applying too much heat or
what.

So I'm wondering if I should just skip the dry mounting and frame
as is. At what size do you think dry mounting is a must? Certainly
16x20 would need dry mounting, but I'm wondering if I can get away
with not dry mounting 11x14s and smaller.

Mike

--
http://www.pbase.com/mroda
Click to expand...
 
David Grabowski said:
Lawrence Keeney said:
Mike,

This is what I have used for a couple of years. It works great for me.

http://www.3m.com/us/mfg_industrial/adhesives/framing/html/scotch6094.jhtml

Has anyone else used this product?
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
I buy the 3M photomount by the case. I think it does a great job. I use wax paper as slip sheets to position the print after spraying the print and the mounting board. Cut the mounting board a little oversize and then trim. When using a mat I position the print on the mat with tape and then spray both together and mount on the mounting board. I have prints done years ago that look just great.

Regards, Fred
http://www.pbase.com/floridafred
 
I tried the spray adhesive method on an 8x10 and a 16x20 and it was a big success, ten times better than the dry mouting I had done at the arts and crafts store. Thanks a million.
mroda said:
I am not pleased with the orange peal effect on my prints after
getting them dry mounted, especially on black areas of the print.
Not sure if the dry mounting place is applying too much heat or
what.

So I'm wondering if I should just skip the dry mounting and frame
as is. At what size do you think dry mounting is a must? Certainly
16x20 would need dry mounting, but I'm wondering if I can get away
with not dry mounting 11x14s and smaller.

Mike

--
http://www.pbase.com/mroda
Click to expand...
--
--
http://www.pbase.com/mroda
 
I don't think the Scotch adhesive I talked about has used that brand name for at least a decade. Showing my age here I guess. Its "3M" now as you've discussed and obviously its the Photomount I would recommend for your use if you decide against thermal mounting.

FWIW I spray on FLAT newspaper and after mounting I rip off the top sheet and throw it away. Keep the newspaper flat because overspray can be a problem as it goes everywhere. I always use a soft brayer and roll the print out from the center to the edges. You really don't need a lot of adhesive so be careful as it can make a BIGTIME mess. If you spray too much it squirts out the side, transfers to the brayer and then retransfers back onto the print surface. Don't even ask how many times I've done that:(

As stated elseware, I also over cut the mounting board and cut it down after mounting. If you are using a matt; position the prepared mat on the mount and trim (cut the mat down) from there for a custom fit..

Turn the can upside down to clean the nozzle after use.

Thats what I've learned after doing it a few thousand times.

Bruce
mroda said:
mroda said:
I am not pleased with the orange peal effect on my prints after
getting them dry mounted, especially on black areas of the print.
Not sure if the dry mounting place is applying too much heat or
what.

So I'm wondering if I should just skip the dry mounting and frame
as is. At what size do you think dry mounting is a must? Certainly
16x20 would need dry mounting, but I'm wondering if I can get away
with not dry mounting 11x14s and smaller.

Mike

--
http://www.pbase.com/mroda
Click to expand...
--
--
http://www.pbase.com/mroda
Click to expand...
 
Bruce ,

Do you have any problems with drops from the spray can falling on the print when you spray them while they are laying horizontally?

I always spray with the print in the vertical position. I have a piece of cardboard about 2' X 3". I place the print face down on a sheet of white paper that is larger than the print. I use a very small spring clip to hold the print, white paper and the cardboard together. I then stand the cardboard vertically and spray. I use a new piece of white paper for each print to be sprayed.

I also spray a little with the can up-side-down after spraying the print, to clean out the tip.

This system seems to work well for me except I use up quite a bit of white paper this way.

I too use a roller and roll from the center of the print to the edges and then I trim the print/foam board combination to size with my matt cutter.

By spraying in the vertical position, I get every last drop out of the can, and don't have to worry about drips.

Does anyone else spray in the vertical position, and have you found a better method than I am using?
--

'Good judgement comes from experience. Unfortunately, the experience usually comes from bad judgement'. - from an Australian Aviation Magazine.



--
Lawrence
 
The only time I have a problem with drips is when there is an adhesive buildup on the nozzel. I often scrape off the excess with a knife blade edge when needed. I often keep a few used mat blades around for this purpose. I suspect you do get more out of the can than I do as at the end I'm dancing around trying to "squeeze " the last bit out.

Bruce
Lawrence Keeney said:
Bruce ,

Do you have any problems with drops from the spray can falling on
the print when you spray them while they are laying horizontally?

I always spray with the print in the vertical position. I have a
piece of cardboard about 2' X 3". I place the print face down on a
sheet of white paper that is larger than the print. I use a very
small spring clip to hold the print, white paper and the cardboard
together. I then stand the cardboard vertically and spray. I use a
new piece of white paper for each print to be sprayed.

I also spray a little with the can up-side-down after spraying the
print, to clean out the tip.

This system seems to work well for me except I use up quite a bit
of white paper this way.

I too use a roller and roll from the center of the print to the
edges and then I trim the print/foam board combination to size with
my matt cutter.

By spraying in the vertical position, I get every last drop out of
the can, and don't have to worry about drips.

Does anyone else spray in the vertical position, and have you found
a better method than I am using?
--
'Good judgement comes from experience. Unfortunately, the
experience usually comes from bad judgement'. - from an Australian
Aviation Magazine.



--
Lawrence
Click to expand...
 
Bruce Oudekerk said:
Bruce
Lawrence Keeney said:
Bruce ,

Do you have any problems with drops from the spray can falling on
the print when you spray them while they are laying horizontally?

I always spray with the print in the vertical position. I have a
piece of cardboard about 2' X 3". I place the print face down on a
sheet of white paper that is larger than the print. I use a very
small spring clip to hold the print, white paper and the cardboard
together. I then stand the cardboard vertically and spray. I use a
new piece of white paper for each print to be sprayed.

I also spray a little with the can up-side-down after spraying the
print, to clean out the tip.

This system seems to work well for me except I use up quite a bit
of white paper this way.

I too use a roller and roll from the center of the print to the
edges and then I trim the print/foam board combination to size with
my matt cutter.

By spraying in the vertical position, I get every last drop out of
the can, and don't have to worry about drips.

Does anyone else spray in the vertical position, and have you found
a better method than I am using?
--
'Good judgement comes from experience. Unfortunately, the
experience usually comes from bad judgement'. - from an Australian
Aviation Magazine.



--
Lawrence
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
I use the 3m spray glue also. However, when finished spraying I of course turn the can upside down to blow out the excess -- then, I use Carburetor cleaner spray and spray the 3m glue spray nozzle (just one squirt" and that will thouroughly clean the nozzle and eleviate problems with the next useage of the spray glue.
I don't have a problem with clogged nozzle or it being "gummed up"
--
Vernon...
http://www.pbase.com/vrain
 
Vernon

Where were you 30 years ago? :) That is a GREAT idea.

Bruce
Vernon D Rainwater said:
I use the 3m spray glue also. However, when finished spraying I of
course turn the can upside down to blow out the excess -- then, I
use Carburetor cleaner spray and spray the 3m glue spray nozzle
(just one squirt" and that will thouroughly clean the nozzle and
eleviate problems with the next useage of the spray glue.
I don't have a problem with clogged nozzle or it being "gummed up"
--
Vernon...
http://www.pbase.com/vrain
Click to expand...
 
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