Steve Farley
Well-known member
If you already own a 420EX the 550EX is a good choice. Keep the 420 it makes a great wireless slave.
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More flash concerns.
- Thread starter mike70811
- Start date
I am amazed at all of the descriptions about how to get ettl to work. If you have access to a sunpak 5000af, try it in auto mode and see what I mean. The only thing that you have to set on the flash is the aperature, all other settings are communicated.
If you have access to any other auto flash (often called "thyristor") that meets the voltage limitations, just try those units and see how well they work. The sunpack is a little nicer because focus assist, and the choice of many fstops (not just 2, 4, and 8)
I have taken now approx 500 shots with this autoflash and never had to think about it. Like anything, just know your subject and vary the flash + - one fstop and you are done. For 95% of all shots you will have to make NO adjustments.
I spent a number of months playing with the 420 and 550 flashes, and whenever there was an action shot I blew the shot. I have NO blown shots, and almost perfect histograms using autoflash.
Today there was another thread saying how great the nikon flashes work in auto mode with the drebel (no focus assist though).
Again, remember, the most of the creative effects that you will attempt with flash are attainable by varying the flash by the equiv of an fstop or two.
If you have access to any other auto flash (often called "thyristor") that meets the voltage limitations, just try those units and see how well they work. The sunpack is a little nicer because focus assist, and the choice of many fstops (not just 2, 4, and 8)
I have taken now approx 500 shots with this autoflash and never had to think about it. Like anything, just know your subject and vary the flash + - one fstop and you are done. For 95% of all shots you will have to make NO adjustments.
I spent a number of months playing with the 420 and 550 flashes, and whenever there was an action shot I blew the shot. I have NO blown shots, and almost perfect histograms using autoflash.
Today there was another thread saying how great the nikon flashes work in auto mode with the drebel (no focus assist though).
Again, remember, the most of the creative effects that you will attempt with flash are attainable by varying the flash by the equiv of an fstop or two.
Simon122644
Leading Member
It is gonna be my future flash for sure. My only concern is the shoe, I heard it is very fragile.
Another thing, do you know if rapid flash is supported by the sunpack ?
Another thing, do you know if rapid flash is supported by the sunpack ?
The shoe seems ok for me.
I am very rough with my stuff. Today all of it was out in snow again, saturday it was out on ice boats at 60mph.
It has a fast sync mode, I just have not used it yet. I'll try to play with it.
I just wish that canon made a flash such as this, since I would prefer to buy it from them.
Only negative with the 5000af seems to be that the auto off is a bit flaky. You DO have to remember to turn it off. But for $135, what the h*ll!
I am very rough with my stuff. Today all of it was out in snow again, saturday it was out on ice boats at 60mph.
It has a fast sync mode, I just have not used it yet. I'll try to play with it.
I just wish that canon made a flash such as this, since I would prefer to buy it from them.
Only negative with the 5000af seems to be that the auto off is a bit flaky. You DO have to remember to turn it off. But for $135, what the h*ll!
Steve Farley
Well-known member
According to Canon the rebel is "A Camera anyone can use" direct from the digital Rebel web page,
Doesn't sound like it should be useless as a Point & Shoot. Certainly to get the most out of it one would expect to have to learn how to all of the extra stuff. However Full auto and P should take a usable shot vitually every time. Perhaps not the best possible, but usable.
Doesn't sound like it should be useless as a Point & Shoot. Certainly to get the most out of it one would expect to have to learn how to all of the extra stuff. However Full auto and P should take a usable shot vitually every time. Perhaps not the best possible, but usable.
I dont want to have to FEL for every shot. Sometimes that cant be
done.
--
http://www.pbase.com/timothyo
Dave Van't Hof
Well-known member
I just ordered the 5000af, and I noticed the spec says to use 4 x 1.5v
alkaline batteries. I have a ton of 1.2v NIMH batteries from my old
digi-cam. Will these work? They can provide hi-current, but if the
trigger voltage does indeed need to be 6v, then these won't suffice.
Thanks
Dave
alkaline batteries. I have a ton of 1.2v NIMH batteries from my old
digi-cam. Will these work? They can provide hi-current, but if the
trigger voltage does indeed need to be 6v, then these won't suffice.
Thanks
Dave
Simon122644
Leading Member
Thanks for rapid answer, one I finish paying my new lens this flash is my next step !
I only use it with NiMH batteries. Mine are rated at 2200 ma/hr. I do not shoot flash continuously, so I have no idea how many flashes I get per charge, but it seems reasonable.
Dave Van't Hof
Well-known member
Wow, 2200, didn't know those were out yet. I have quite a few at
2000ma/h so hopefully they will work.
Thanks for the info. this helps justify the purchase a bit more...
Dave
Based on Malc's experience and advice I settled the flash issue by going with the Sunpak 5000. I just could not bring myself to put up the cash for a 550EX or even the Sigma 500DG Super. I bought mine from B&H for $149.00.
I had such good luck with manual mode on an old Canon 277T speedlight that it made sense to go with the auto Sunpak. I'm not real good with the 'science' either but I can adjust my aperture just fine-lol.
I've only taken a few shots so far but I'm satisfied it will fulfill my needs at the moment. It does have a pretty good reach-I used it to shoot across the court and from basket to basket (it was a small one) at my daughter's basketball game. I'll throw some shots up if I have time.
Malc, if you read this THANKS FOR THE TIP!
btw-build quality seems 'fair' compared to my old Canon 277T and also a 422D Sunpak I have (not as good as either unfortunately). Both are at least 10-12 years old. Menu system is intuitive and very easy to navigate. Shot to shot recharge is nothing to brag about with alkalines but I can live with it for now.
--
Just think, if every key-stroke was a shutter-press we would all be pros by now...
I had such good luck with manual mode on an old Canon 277T speedlight that it made sense to go with the auto Sunpak. I'm not real good with the 'science' either but I can adjust my aperture just fine-lol.
I've only taken a few shots so far but I'm satisfied it will fulfill my needs at the moment. It does have a pretty good reach-I used it to shoot across the court and from basket to basket (it was a small one) at my daughter's basketball game. I'll throw some shots up if I have time.
Malc, if you read this THANKS FOR THE TIP!
btw-build quality seems 'fair' compared to my old Canon 277T and also a 422D Sunpak I have (not as good as either unfortunately). Both are at least 10-12 years old. Menu system is intuitive and very easy to navigate. Shot to shot recharge is nothing to brag about with alkalines but I can live with it for now.
--
Just think, if every key-stroke was a shutter-press we would all be pros by now...
Thanks for the complement.
One thing that I can say is that with the sunpack you get $149 worth of flash for $149. For that amount of money, it meets my expectations. I would imagine that people who buy the Sigma DG super have the same feelings as well. Both nice products, and both "right priced".
One thing that I can say is that with the sunpack you get $149 worth of flash for $149. For that amount of money, it meets my expectations. I would imagine that people who buy the Sigma DG super have the same feelings as well. Both nice products, and both "right priced".
By the way, the built in flash in the DRebel, and in the sony f7*7, work excellent for outdoor daylight fill shots. That is probably their best use.
You just need to understand how it works to get the best out of it.
The Canon solution can provide faultless flash and even better,
daylight fill flash, when used correctly.
Using the Sunpack, you throw most of this in the trash and go back
ten years to using basic flash with minimal flash to camera
communication.
Feel free, but personally I'd advise learning how to maximise your
investment in the camera system.
That way you can use the creative tool you've paid good money for,
to it's full potential.
Chris.
--
http://www.1D-images.com
[email protected]
Mac G4/iMac/iBook/iPod
alekas
Senior Member
I recently discovered that Mejier stores are selling Energizer NiMh 2100mah batteries for about $10 per 4 pc.
kevin3030us
Well-known member
Would I have to set the aperture on the sigma flash?
Also, does auto mode work well with the sigma, too
Thanks......
Also, does auto mode work well with the sigma, too
Thanks......
John Force
Forum Enthusiast
Get the Sunpak PZ5000 as suggested! I received mine a few days ago and have been testing the hell out of it. What an amazing difference! 99.9% useable photos with no thinking, guessing, etc. (but as complex as you want to get, if you're into complexity: I'm playing with the Power Ratio feature, the Stroboscopic feature, etc., but none of that is really necessary to get successful photos). The only thing that makes me a little uncomfortable is the size - I wish I could get all the equipment necessary to mount it on the side of the camera, but from what I've researched so far, I need several expensive parts (Canon hotshoe adapter, a special cord, the bracket itself (cheap), etc.) - someone please correct and inform me if there is a less expensive way to use the flash on a bracket than with all the expensive Canon adapters, cords, converters, etc. Thanks.
John Force
--
http://www.pbase.com/pbunkb/
John Force
--
http://www.pbase.com/pbunkb/
John Force
Forum Enthusiast
Oh, I forgot, get the Sto-Fen omnibounce or similar diffuser while you're at it. They are cheap, and they make a huge difference when bouncing, or to a lesser degree, straight on.
John Force
--
http://www.pbase.com/pbunkb/
John Force
--
http://www.pbase.com/pbunkb/
The ETTL works pretty good on most cameras but with the 300D only the 550EX with FEC can be recommended.
The Sunpack should do an excellent job providing you know how to use manual mode and autoflash.
It always makes me laugh when everyone wants/demands all the manual features possible on their camera for user control and then chooses to use a fully automated ETTL flash.
Talk about redundancy?
John
The Sunpack should do an excellent job providing you know how to use manual mode and autoflash.
It always makes me laugh when everyone wants/demands all the manual features possible on their camera for user control and then chooses to use a fully automated ETTL flash.
Talk about redundancy?
John
Using the Sunpack, you throw most of this in the trash and go back
ten years to using basic flash with minimal flash to camera
communication.
Feel free, but personally I'd advise learning how to maximise your
investment in the camera system.
That way you can use the creative tool you've paid good money for,
to it's full potential.
Chris.
--
http://www.1D-images.com
[email protected]
Mac G4/iMac/iBook/iPod
John,
I see that you are another guy who has found that you can put away the protractor, slide rule, and engineering book, and get BETTER results with autoflash without even trying. And, it is just as possible to be creative and add or subtract a stop or two of flash power.
What the sunpak 5000af flash seems to do is shut the flash down just before the histogram hits the right side. Perfect almost every time, and ALWAYS can be perfect with a slight adjustment to raw file. Not the case with accidentally hitting a dark coat with eTTL, and having your shot off by 2 stops, at least.
I just love reading the long winded stories about how to use eTTL.
Best feature about eTTL and FEL(sarcastically) is that people start to walk away after you do the FEL flash, thinking that the shot was taken. Then, with a sigh, they pose again. It is clearly time for eTTL2.
I see that you are another guy who has found that you can put away the protractor, slide rule, and engineering book, and get BETTER results with autoflash without even trying. And, it is just as possible to be creative and add or subtract a stop or two of flash power.
What the sunpak 5000af flash seems to do is shut the flash down just before the histogram hits the right side. Perfect almost every time, and ALWAYS can be perfect with a slight adjustment to raw file. Not the case with accidentally hitting a dark coat with eTTL, and having your shot off by 2 stops, at least.
I just love reading the long winded stories about how to use eTTL.
Best feature about eTTL and FEL(sarcastically) is that people start to walk away after you do the FEL flash, thinking that the shot was taken. Then, with a sigh, they pose again. It is clearly time for eTTL2.
John Force
Forum Enthusiast
malc:
That happened to me (before I got the Sunpak)! We had a family get-together and I wanted to get a group photo. I tried to explain the pre-flash (FEL) exposure situation so that they wouldn't start to walk away when the REAL flash went off. Most of them just looked at me like I was nuts. Then came the smart remarks about how they didn't have to do all that with their P&S camera's, yada, yada, yada.... That's when I decided to order the Sunpak. Glad I did.
John Force
--
http://www.pbase.com/pbunkb/
That happened to me (before I got the Sunpak)! We had a family get-together and I wanted to get a group photo. I tried to explain the pre-flash (FEL) exposure situation so that they wouldn't start to walk away when the REAL flash went off. Most of them just looked at me like I was nuts. Then came the smart remarks about how they didn't have to do all that with their P&S camera's, yada, yada, yada.... That's when I decided to order the Sunpak. Glad I did.
John Force
--
http://www.pbase.com/pbunkb/
I'm also looking at "upgrading" from a Canon flash to the Sunpak. I do have one question about AF support: I've seen it said somewhere that autofocus support (with that red light) only works when using the center focus point. Is this right? Does the Sunpak red focus light work well with the 300d?
I really don't want to use the ability of the 300D to use the flash to help focus in the dark.
Thanks,
I really don't want to use the ability of the 300D to use the flash to help focus in the dark.
Thanks,
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