Stung by the Bee...

Reed,

For almost 30 years I just used window light and a reflector for portraits; the way I was taught. You can get great results that way, and if you stop to think, its the exact type of soft light folks spend $$$ to simulate with strobes and softboxes. For a minimal investment in a flat reflector, stand, and background you can take very nice portraits that way (see http://super.nova.org/PhotoClass/PhotoClass02A_01.html )

For the past few years I've been using a pair of Vivitar flashes bounced into umbrellas with pretty good results:



See http://super.nova.org/photos/ for equipment specifics and http://super.nova.org/PhotoGallery for more examples, including some tabletop still life shots.

The advantage is the set-up is relatively inexpensive and portable. I'm in the Foreign Service and for 20 years have lived in a sucession of 3 BR apartments and townhouses were I haven't had the luxury of a space where I could set-up a permanent studio, or even store a lot of equipment.

The disadvantages of the el cheapo route is a lack of previsualization (no modeling lights) and very limited control. I've got enough experience to overcome these, but someone starting out with lighting and posing would have a difficult time learning while "flying in the blind" without modeling lights. You could go with hot lights to solve the modeling problem, and that might be a better investment if you also do home videos.

There are also limitations to using only two lights. Adding a backgound light allows control of the subject / background separation and adding a hair light increases the 3D realism of the hair and provides separate between dark hair and low key backgounds. When you start adding all those lights the ability to accurately previsualize and precisely control flash output are important creative and ease of use factors.

After a good deal of soul searching and wrestling (with my wallet) I've opted to go with the four-light Alien Bees kit because I finally have space for a studio I don't need to tear down to eat dinner and want to go beyond simple two-light setups.

If you are on a tight budget start with window light and a reflector to learn basic posing and lighting. If you can't shoot a well posed, well lit portrait by a window you'll struggle in with studio strobes and get frustrated. Next add an AB400 or AB800 with a softbox as a key light and use it with the reflector just as you did by window light. As you can afford more lights add a second for fill, and additional ones for background and hair. It will be a better long term investment than buying a second camera-type strobe and ligihtweight stands.

Chuck
Very nice shot. I've been thinking about buying some lights, but
I'm wondering if I can just get by with buying a couple of
umbrellas to go with my Nikon speedlights in the short term. Do
you find that you can do most of what you want to do with just the
Canon flashes, or, other than a difference in power, would a set of
lights be alot more useful?
 
Juli,

For 8 X 10 crop place the right side of the crop on the right edge of the first cropped photo you posted, and the bottom about halfway between the 3rd and 4th buttons. The objective with any crop of a portrait (h&s or full-length, individual or group) is to get the eyes right at the upper 1/3 line.

Here's a great way to set-up PS to divide the frame into "magic" thirds:

Under Edit > Preferences > Guides, Grids & Slices set "Gridline Every" to 33.333 percent, and subdivisions to "1'. The guides will then divide the frame into thirds in each direction.

Chuck Gardner


How do you decide to crop? 8 x 10, 5 x 7, etc. It changes the
composition so much.
 
Juli,

I can't FTP from work to post edited examples, but if you send me your e-mail (mine is cgardner - at - nova.org) I can e-mail attachments to you showing cropping, etc...

I'm guessing your Dad, without his glasses would be a great subject for a low-key, high-ratio profile shot like this one:



You should try that with your new background.

Chuck
 
I can identify with tearing down for dinner. I don't have to do that, but I'm working in very cramped quarters. One of these days, I'll clear out some space in the basement.
 
I got one of those muslin backgrounds today. I also ordered a
small softbox. There is no end, but now I know I might be able to
start with two ABs instead of three. There is no end to things
you can want to buy. Take a look. This is my elderly father made
with two Canon flashes into umbrellas.
http://www.pbase.com/image/24924448/medium
Thanks for that Julie - good picture.

Last Saturday I purchased a 550Ex and translucent brolly to go with my existing 420EX and whiite/sliver reflective brolly. I haven't had a chance to play with them yet (we've a 1-month old baby boy!) but it's good to see that results of that quality will be within my grasp (technical skill not withstanding).

--
Steve

Sony F 7 0 7
Canon E O S - 1 0 D
 
Have fun with photographing the new baby. I envy you that amount of material. You will treasure those moments that fly by so fast.
 
Just curious, how do you attach the gel and the softbox onto the monolight at the same time? I have a set of white lightning ultras and I can't figure out a way to do it, at least not elegantly. The gels require the mainframe unit to be attached. The mainframe unit requires the 7 inch reflector to be attached. The softbox requires a speedring. A speedring and a reflector cannot be attached at the same time. At least I don't think so....

-kaom
Well I finally got stung by the Bee... repeatedly and severely...

I ordered a 4 AB800s kit, stands, a boom for the hair light, a set
of grids, a barndoor, wired remote... For softboxes I went with
pair of Photoflex, a medium and a large Multidome Softbox, based on
the great advice from this forum and the fact B&H is having a
special which includes a 3-piece accessory kit.

I also purchased a 8x (3 stop) ND filter for my camera, which I
figure will give me more exposure headroom using the AB800s in my
small studio space.

Thanks to all for your advice...

Chuck Gardner
--
http://jrg-imaging.com
'Film is cheap compared to the trauma of a missed shot.' - Brian
Peterson
 
Reed,

For almost 30 years I just used window light and a reflector for
portraits; the way I was taught. You can get great results that
way, and if you stop to think, its the exact type of soft light
folks spend $$$ to simulate with strobes and softboxes. For a
minimal investment in a flat reflector, stand, and background you
can take very nice portraits that way (see
http://super.nova.org/PhotoClass/PhotoClass02A_01.html )

For the past few years I've been using a pair of Vivitar flashes
bounced into umbrellas with pretty good results:

See http://super.nova.org/photos/ for equipment specifics and
http://super.nova.org/PhotoGallery for more examples, including
some tabletop still life shots.

The advantage is the set-up is relatively inexpensive and portable.
I'm in the Foreign Service and for 20 years have lived in a
sucession of 3 BR apartments and townhouses were I haven't had the
luxury of a space where I could set-up a permanent studio, or even
store a lot of equipment.

The disadvantages of the el cheapo route is a lack of
previsualization (no modeling lights) and very limited control.
I've got enough experience to overcome these, but someone starting
out with lighting and posing would have a difficult time learning
while "flying in the blind" without modeling lights. You could go
with hot lights to solve the modeling problem, and that might be a
better investment if you also do home videos.

There are also limitations to using only two lights. Adding a
backgound light allows control of the subject / background
separation and adding a hair light increases the 3D realism of the
hair and provides separate between dark hair and low key
backgounds. When you start adding all those lights the ability to
accurately previsualize and precisely control flash output are
important creative and ease of use factors.

After a good deal of soul searching and wrestling (with my wallet)
I've opted to go with the four-light Alien Bees kit because I
finally have space for a studio I don't need to tear down to eat
dinner and want to go beyond simple two-light setups.

If you are on a tight budget start with window light and a
reflector to learn basic posing and lighting. If you can't shoot a
well posed, well lit portrait by a window you'll struggle in with
studio strobes and get frustrated. Next add an AB400 or AB800 with
a softbox as a key light and use it with the reflector just as you
did by window light. As you can afford more lights add a second
for fill, and additional ones for background and hair. It will be
a better long term investment than buying a second camera-type
strobe and ligihtweight stands.
Thanks so much for your extremely helpful and thoughtful response. It's just what I needed to help think through all of this.

Regards,

Reed
 

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