Adobe RGB color space

candi

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I was wondering if someone could help me with this?? I have a new 10D, but I'm not sure what color space I should be using. I've had it set to the default setting, sRGB. I take lots of pictures, many of which I enlarge to 11x14 and above. Should I be using Adobe RGB instead? I was reading in a book where it says: "...The camera normally uses a color space with fewer colors called sRGB. sRGB is suitable for images that will be displayed on a monitor, but if you plan on editing your images and making high-quality prints, Adobe RGB is a better choice. When you use Adobe RGB, the camera does not attach the necessary ICC profile to the image. You can do so in a program such as Adobe Photoshop but have to remember to do so...."

So, my questions are: Should I use Adobe RGB? And if I use Adobe RGB, how do you attach the profile in PS and is this necessary?

Thanks!!!!!
 
I was wondering if someone could help me with this?? I have a new
10D, but I'm not sure what color space I should be using. I've had
it set to the default setting, sRGB. I take lots of pictures, many
of which I enlarge to 11x14 and above. Should I be using Adobe RGB
instead? I was reading in a book where it says: "...The camera
normally uses a color space with fewer colors called sRGB. sRGB is
suitable for images that will be displayed on a monitor, but if you
plan on editing your images and making high-quality prints, Adobe
RGB is a better choice. When you use Adobe RGB, the camera does
not attach the necessary ICC profile to the image. You can do so
in a program such as Adobe Photoshop but have to remember to do
so...."

So, my questions are: Should I use Adobe RGB? And if I use Adobe
RGB, how do you attach the profile in PS and is this necessary?

Thanks!!!!!
Adobe rgb is a wider gamut of colors than sRGB. What this means, is that you'll be able to get a greater range of reds, blues, greens etc.

On the monitor you won't be able to see that wide spectrum of colors that Adobe rgb contains. Monitors aren't capable of displaying such a range.

A printer can. Especially the better printers that you can tell to look at the application that you've used to create or edit your image or photo with and to use that information and not the generic info that the print driver provides.

In Adobe Photoshop you can assign a profile to an image or convert an existing profile to another profile. You do this in the drop down menu that reads mode. If you've setup Photoshop to make your working space Adobe 98 rgb, Photoshop will display a dialog box that gives you the option to assign the profile Adobe 98 if it's your designated working space.

From my understanding of the 10D, it will not assign the Adobe 98 profile. I run a D60. It will store the information in the image so you'll need to assign the Adobe profle when opening the image the first time.

If you're running RAW files, you may assign adobe 98 there also. Then, you won't need to do it in Photoshop.

I feel that in order to effectively use Adobe 98, you'll need an accurately calibrated monitor and a printer with custom profiles for each paper. It's worth the effort to set up your system this way.

Some images may appear somewhat flat on your monitor or other peoples monitors if assigned the Adobe 98 profile. I don't have this problem with my personal monitor due to it's calibration. Never asked others if my images seem flat. No one's ever pointed it out. If you do get flat appearing images that others complain about, then save a copy of the file in Photoshop and assign the sRGB profile to it for online display purposes.
 
In camera: Shoot in Adobe RGB
When converting: Assign Adobe RGB
While editing and saving original files in PS: Use Adobe RGB

When saving as output to web, shutterfly/ofoto, or printing on digital labs such as the Frontier or Nortisu: Use an action to assign sRGB and save to another folder. Do not replace your original files with sRGB.
--
http://www.PatYuen.com
 
Thanks Rob! That was very helpful. Could you possibly answer a couple more questions? My lab requires that Photoshop be set to sRGB and that there are no embedded profiles in my files. Can I still use Adobe RGB and should I still attach the profile or is this what they are telling me not to do?
Candi
I was wondering if someone could help me with this?? I have a new
10D, but I'm not sure what color space I should be using. I've had
it set to the default setting, sRGB. I take lots of pictures, many
of which I enlarge to 11x14 and above. Should I be using Adobe RGB
instead? I was reading in a book where it says: "...The camera
normally uses a color space with fewer colors called sRGB. sRGB is
suitable for images that will be displayed on a monitor, but if you
plan on editing your images and making high-quality prints, Adobe
RGB is a better choice. When you use Adobe RGB, the camera does
not attach the necessary ICC profile to the image. You can do so
in a program such as Adobe Photoshop but have to remember to do
so...."

So, my questions are: Should I use Adobe RGB? And if I use Adobe
RGB, how do you attach the profile in PS and is this necessary?

Thanks!!!!!
Adobe rgb is a wider gamut of colors than sRGB. What this means, is
that you'll be able to get a greater range of reds, blues, greens
etc.
On the monitor you won't be able to see that wide spectrum of
colors that Adobe rgb contains. Monitors aren't capable of
displaying such a range.
A printer can. Especially the better printers that you can tell to
look at the application that you've used to create or edit your
image or photo with and to use that information and not the generic
info that the print driver provides.
In Adobe Photoshop you can assign a profile to an image or convert
an existing profile to another profile. You do this in the drop
down menu that reads mode. If you've setup Photoshop to make your
working space Adobe 98 rgb, Photoshop will display a dialog box
that gives you the option to assign the profile Adobe 98 if it's
your designated working space.
From my understanding of the 10D, it will not assign the Adobe 98
profile. I run a D60. It will store the information in the image so
you'll need to assign the Adobe profle when opening the image the
first time.
If you're running RAW files, you may assign adobe 98 there also.
Then, you won't need to do it in Photoshop.
I feel that in order to effectively use Adobe 98, you'll need an
accurately calibrated monitor and a printer with custom profiles
for each paper. It's worth the effort to set up your system this
way.
Some images may appear somewhat flat on your monitor or other
peoples monitors if assigned the Adobe 98 profile. I don't have
this problem with my personal monitor due to it's calibration.
Never asked others if my images seem flat. No one's ever pointed it
out. If you do get flat appearing images that others complain
about, then save a copy of the file in Photoshop and assign the
sRGB profile to it for online display purposes.
 
As the last step before saving the files to a CD, convert to sRGB (Image, Mode, convert to profle) and save w/o checking the embed profile option. Even if you embed the profile, their printers will simply ignore it.

Create an action to do this as a batch.
Thanks Rob! That was very helpful. Could you possibly answer a
couple more questions? My lab requires that Photoshop be set to
sRGB and that there are no embedded profiles in my files. Can I
still use Adobe RGB and should I still attach the profile or is
this what they are telling me not to do?
Candi
--
http://www.PatYuen.com
 
That's interesting. The tech at my costco told me to conver to the noritsu profile, which I've done and to date, it gives me the closest match to my calibrated monitor.

I've been shooting srgb and converting upon opening to my workspace argb. As a last step I convert to the noritsu profile before burning to cd.

Am I doing this wrong?

Thanks,

Tom
In camera: Shoot in Adobe RGB
When converting: Assign Adobe RGB
While editing and saving original files in PS: Use Adobe RGB
When saving as output to web, shutterfly/ofoto, or printing on
digital labs such as the Frontier or Nortisu: Use an action to
assign sRGB and save to another folder. Do not replace your
original files with sRGB.
--
http://www.PatYuen.com
 
That's interesting. The tech at my costco told me to conver to the
noritsu profile, which I've done and to date, it gives me the
closest match to my calibrated monitor.
Not quite enough info. From what you are saying, this noritsu profile is a profile supplied by costco. If so, it is the profile costco is using for their printer. This is the color information that costco's printers use to get correct color on the prints produced by their printer.

If your monitor is calibrated accurately then the colors you see on the monitor will be accurate. When you convert it to this noritsu profile, you are changing the data, (all those zeros and ones) to information that costco's printers can use to apply the ink to the paper to match the colors you see on the monitor. Essentially, the noritsu profile is a printer profile. Your working space which is Adobe rgb from what you are saying contains the zeros and ones info to describe the colors you see on your monitor when working in Photoshop. Printer profiles are strictly for information that your printer will understand so the printouts match as closely as is possible to the colors you see when editing your image on screen in Photoshop.
I've been shooting srgb and converting upon opening to my workspace
argb. As a last step I convert to the noritsu profile before
burning to cd.

Am I doing this wrong?

Thanks,

Tom
In camera: Shoot in Adobe RGB
When converting: Assign Adobe RGB
While editing and saving original files in PS: Use Adobe RGB
When saving as output to web, shutterfly/ofoto, or printing on
digital labs such as the Frontier or Nortisu: Use an action to
assign sRGB and save to another folder. Do not replace your
original files with sRGB.
--
http://www.PatYuen.com
 
That's interesting. The tech at my costco told me to conver to the
noritsu profile, which I've done and to date, it gives me the
closest match to my calibrated monitor.
Your milege may vary. sRGB is a standard profile used by many monitors, cameras , and minilabs. Using a profile specific to a printer will give you better result assuming it was measured correctly in the first place. You need a profile for every printer/paper combination. So for every Noritsu printer, you will need one for glossy paper, and one for matte paper. Some Costco may have more than one printer so you have to make sure they are using the right printer. I submitted a color chart for Drycreek photo to create a profile but the results were horrible. sRGB gives me the most consistent results.
I've been shooting srgb and converting upon opening to my workspace
argb. As a last step I convert to the noritsu profile before
burning to cd.
Shooting in sRGB and opening it in Adobe RGB will not help. Your sRGB image file contains the narrower gamut and you can't add what's not there. Shoot in Adobe RGB, work in Adobe RGB, convert to sRGB to a separate file as a last step.
Am I doing this wrong?

Thanks,

Tom
In camera: Shoot in Adobe RGB
When converting: Assign Adobe RGB
While editing and saving original files in PS: Use Adobe RGB
When saving as output to web, shutterfly/ofoto, or printing on
digital labs such as the Frontier or Nortisu: Use an action to
assign sRGB and save to another folder. Do not replace your
original files with sRGB.
--
http://www.PatYuen.com
--
http://www.PatYuen.com
 

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