E-1 (and FL-50) annoyances

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jon Ragnarsson
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J

Jon Ragnarsson

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Ok, 2 things are somewhat bothering me on E-1.

1. The focus scale is way too short, it basically shows 0.22, 0.4 and 1 meter. I would have been more satisfied with 0.22, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.8 and 1 meter or something. And another thing, the 14-54 focus beyond infinity! (I have to re-check this, though) That could explain why some photos I took using manual focus seems to be out of focus.

2. When using FL-50 in Program mode, the camera just sticks to widest aperture, and seems to turn off program shift. Not much of a problem, sinse I use the camera mostly in Auto mode, but still annoying.
Otherwise, I am a happy camper. :)
J.
--
http://jonr.beecee.org/

 
Ok, 2 things are somewhat bothering me on E-1.
1. The focus scale is way too short, it basically shows 0.22, 0.4
and 1 meter. I would have been more satisfied with 0.22, 0.3, 0.4,
0.5, 0.6, 0.8 and 1 meter or something. And another thing, the
14-54 focus beyond infinity! (I have to re-check this, though) That
could explain why some photos I took using manual focus seems to be
out of focus.
Someone told me all zooms do this since infinity can change at different zooms. I know this is true with my E-10.
 
Hi Jon -

I believe that the ability to focus beyond infinity is a function of designing the lense to be able to expand and contract in different temperatures, ie: expanding in heat and contracting in cold.

Jeff
Ok, 2 things are somewhat bothering me on E-1.
1. The focus scale is way too short, it basically shows 0.22, 0.4
and 1 meter. I would have been more satisfied with 0.22, 0.3, 0.4,
0.5, 0.6, 0.8 and 1 meter or something. And another thing, the
14-54 focus beyond infinity! (I have to re-check this, though) That
could explain why some photos I took using manual focus seems to be
out of focus.
Someone told me all zooms do this since infinity can change at
different zooms. I know this is true with my E-10.
 
2. When using FL-50 in Program mode, the camera just sticks to
widest aperture, and seems to turn off program shift. Not much of a
problem, sinse I use the camera mostly in Auto mode, but still
annoying.
There is an old dictum: "a good flash picture is one where you can't tell that flash was used." One way of accomplishing this goal is to balance the brightness of the flash as closely as possible with the brightness of the available, ambient light within the scene.

This seems to be one of the operating principles which guide the E-1 when used in Program exposure mode with TTL. When shooting indoors, the E-1's exposure Program first meters the available light within the scene and selects a shutter speed and lens aperture which will give the best possible exposure. The lens aperture is opened up in steps as the shutter speed is slowed down in steps - depending on how much brightness from available light is illuminating the scene. Once the maximum aperture has been reached, and the lighting grows progressively dimmer, the shutter speed will keep going slower until correct exposure has been achieved.

Now, if the E-1 is in Program exposure mode and the camera senses the presense of a TTL capable flash unit - it will attempt to balance the brightness of the flash as closely as possible with the ambient light which is already present within the scene. In dim lighting conditions, the lens aperture will open to the widest f/stop available - in order to gain as much exposure as possible from the available light. The brightness of the TTL flash will be regulated so that it is no more bright than the wide-open lens aperture requires.

Ambient light exposure is determined by the shutter speed, as well as the lens aperture. If the camera does not detect the presense of a switch-on flash unit, it assumes that a tripod will be used and the shutter speed will be slowed down by the Program to whatever speed is necessary to achieve correct exposure. If the camera is hand-held at slow shutter speeds, and no flash is used, camera shake will cause blurring of the image -and thus the need for tripod mounting.

If the camera detects a switched-on flash unit, the Program assumes the camera will be used hand-held. Consequently, the Program will not slow down the shutter speed beyond the point where the camera can be hand-held without blurring the image due to camera shake. For example, if the foical length of a zoom lens is set to 14mm - the shutter speed will not go below 1/30th sec. But if you zoom in the lens to 54mm, the shutter speed will not fall below 1/100th sec. The shutter speed selected by the program will always match the slowest speed which can be safely hand-held for the focal length of the lens.

This is really an excellent implementation of an "expert system." That is to say, when the E-1 is in Program mode and senses a TTL capable flash unit - it will set the the lens aperture, shutter speed and brightness of the flash in exactly the same way, and for the same reasons, that an "expert" photographer would set all of these parameters manually.

Of course, using the Program mode with TTL flash forces the photographer to completely surrender control over both lens aperture and shutter. If for example the scene requires more depth-of-field than the wide-open aperture which Program mode will often provide - it would be better to shift from Program to Aperture Priority exposure mode, and select whatever f/stop you feel is appropriate. Or, if there is subject motion which needs to be frozen, requiring a faster shutter speed than Program mode has chosen - then shifting from Program to Shutter speed Priority exposure mode will enable setting the shutter speed you feel is necessary. And of course, choosing Manual exposure mode will enable the photographer to set both lens aperture and shutter speed manually. The great thing about TTL flash is that the brightness of the flash will always match the lens aperture, whether that aperture was chosen manually by the photographer or automatically by the camera.

The Program mode of the E-1 is very, very smart when it comes to using TTL flash - smarter than many other competing cameras. It adjusts the shuttter speed to match the focal length of the lens in a way which allows maximum available light exposure while minimizing the blurring effects of camera shake. And it also adjusts the zooming reflector of the flash so its coverage matches the angle of view of the lens. This system is way more sophisticated and effective than the E-TTL system on the Canon 10D, for example. So if one is annoyed by the way Program flash works on the E-1, all you need to do to feel better is try out about any other dSLR.

Gene Windell
 
this is one beutifull explonation, it may be implemented in the text book!
2. When using FL-50 in Program mode, the camera just sticks to
widest aperture, and seems to turn off program shift. Not much of a
problem, sinse I use the camera mostly in Auto mode, but still
annoying.
There is an old dictum: "a good flash picture is one where you
can't tell that flash was used." One way of accomplishing this
goal is to balance the brightness of the flash as closely as
possible with the brightness of the available, ambient light within
the scene.

This seems to be one of the operating principles which guide the
E-1 when used in Program exposure mode with TTL. When shooting
indoors, the E-1's exposure Program first meters the available
light within the scene and selects a shutter speed and lens
aperture which will give the best possible exposure. The lens
aperture is opened up in steps as the shutter speed is slowed down
in steps - depending on how much brightness from available light is
illuminating the scene. Once the maximum aperture has been
reached, and the lighting grows progressively dimmer, the shutter
speed will keep going slower until correct exposure has been
achieved.

Now, if the E-1 is in Program exposure mode and the camera senses
the presense of a TTL capable flash unit - it will attempt to
balance the brightness of the flash as closely as possible with the
ambient light which is already present within the scene. In dim
lighting conditions, the lens aperture will open to the widest
f/stop available - in order to gain as much exposure as possible
from the available light. The brightness of the TTL flash will be
regulated so that it is no more bright than the wide-open lens
aperture requires.

Ambient light exposure is determined by the shutter speed, as well
as the lens aperture. If the camera does not detect the presense
of a switch-on flash unit, it assumes that a tripod will be used
and the shutter speed will be slowed down by the Program to
whatever speed is necessary to achieve correct exposure. If the
camera is hand-held at slow shutter speeds, and no flash is used,
camera shake will cause blurring of the image -and thus the need
for tripod mounting.

If the camera detects a switched-on flash unit, the Program assumes
the camera will be used hand-held. Consequently, the Program will
not slow down the shutter speed beyond the point where the camera
can be hand-held without blurring the image due to camera shake.
For example, if the foical length of a zoom lens is set to 14mm -
the shutter speed will not go below 1/30th sec. But if you zoom in
the lens to 54mm, the shutter speed will not fall below 1/100th
sec. The shutter speed selected by the program will always match
the slowest speed which can be safely hand-held for the focal
length of the lens.

This is really an excellent implementation of an "expert system."
That is to say, when the E-1 is in Program mode and senses a TTL
capable flash unit - it will set the the lens aperture, shutter
speed and brightness of the flash in exactly the same way, and for
the same reasons, that an "expert" photographer would set all of
these parameters manually.

Of course, using the Program mode with TTL flash forces the
photographer to completely surrender control over both lens
aperture and shutter. If for example the scene requires more
depth-of-field than the wide-open aperture which Program mode will
often provide - it would be better to shift from Program to
Aperture Priority exposure mode, and select whatever f/stop you
feel is appropriate. Or, if there is subject motion which needs to
be frozen, requiring a faster shutter speed than Program mode has
chosen - then shifting from Program to Shutter speed Priority
exposure mode will enable setting the shutter speed you feel is
necessary. And of course, choosing Manual exposure mode will
enable the photographer to set both lens aperture and shutter speed
manually. The great thing about TTL flash is that the brightness
of the flash will always match the lens aperture, whether that
aperture was chosen manually by the photographer or automatically
by the camera.

The Program mode of the E-1 is very, very smart when it comes to
using TTL flash - smarter than many other competing cameras. It
adjusts the shuttter speed to match the focal length of the lens in
a way which allows maximum available light exposure while
minimizing the blurring effects of camera shake. And it also
adjusts the zooming reflector of the flash so its coverage matches
the angle of view of the lens. This system is way more
sophisticated and effective than the E-TTL system on the Canon 10D,
for example. So if one is annoyed by the way Program flash works
on the E-1, all you need to do to feel better is try out about any
other dSLR.

Gene Windell
--
http://www.diastudio.org
 
Thanks for excellent explanation, but perhaps I wasn't clear enough. :)

When in Program mode with the FL-50, the camera selects the widest aperture, great for maximizing available light, but as a side effect, the FL-50 gives mininum range of 2.5 meters (AFAIR). That is just too much, since my subjects are often closer than that. Not much of a problem, but still somewhat puzzling.
J.

--
http://jonr.beecee.org/

 
Makes sense, but again, annoying and should be impossible when using manual focus. (after all, the camera knows what you are focusing on). You should not be able to focus beyond infinity. A bit of a problem when working in almost total darkness. Maybe Olympus should have a bug report website? :)
J.
I believe that the ability to focus beyond infinity is a function
of designing the lense to be able to expand and contract in
different temperatures, ie: expanding in heat and contracting in
cold.

Jeff
Ok, 2 things are somewhat bothering me on E-1.
1. The focus scale is way too short, it basically shows 0.22, 0.4
and 1 meter. I would have been more satisfied with 0.22, 0.3, 0.4,
0.5, 0.6, 0.8 and 1 meter or something. And another thing, the
14-54 focus beyond infinity! (I have to re-check this, though) That
could explain why some photos I took using manual focus seems to be
out of focus.
Someone told me all zooms do this since infinity can change at
different zooms. I know this is true with my E-10.
--
http://jonr.beecee.org/

 
Jón

I have had nothing but good experiences up close with the FL50 - this is a shot of my wife and a friend's child from a few days ago - shot quite close at 28mm effective f.l. in Program mode and I am very impressed with the evenness of the illumination....

Having control is what M mode is for - in P mode I am more than happy to let the camera decide if this is the quality it can produce consistantly...

My \2......

Cheers,

 
When in Program mode with the FL-50, the camera selects the widest
aperture, great for maximizing available light, but as a side
effect, the FL-50 gives mininum range of 2.5 meters (AFAIR). That
is just too much, since my subjects are often closer than that. Not
much of a problem, but still somewhat puzzling.
While balancing the brightness of the flash with existing, ambient light may be a desirable goal - it is not the only priority. There will be times when using a faster shutter speed to freeze motion, or a smaller lens aperture to achieve more depth of field, or a lower ISO to reduce the minimum operating distance for TTL flash metering will be necessary. We can't expect the camera to evaluate the subject matter and determine how the priorities should be established.

There are several factors which influence the minimum operating distance for TTL flash metering. In no particular order of importance, these are:

1. Lens focal length. The wider the focal length setting on a zoom lens, the more minimum operating distance for TTL flash metering is reduced.

2. ISO. The lower the ISO, the more the minimum operating distance is reduced.

3. Lens aperture. The smaller the aperture, the more minimum operating distance is reduced.

For example by setting the ISO to 100, the zoom lens focal length to 14mm, and the lens aperture to f/11 - the minimum operating distance for TTL flash metering is 0.2 meters or 9.6 inches. Now, which of these parameters the photographer will adjust to get closer will depend on which of his other priorities are being compromised. Of course, the lens focal length and the ISO can be changed while the camera is in Program exposure mode. But to gain control over the lens aperture, it will be necessary to shift into Aperture preferred or Manual exposure mode.

Gene Windell
 
You make too much sense. :)
Maybe I am missing something obvious. Or maybe I just hafe to do some RTFM.
Thanks all.
J.
When in Program mode with the FL-50, the camera selects the widest
aperture, great for maximizing available light, but as a side
effect, the FL-50 gives mininum range of 2.5 meters (AFAIR). That
is just too much, since my subjects are often closer than that. Not
much of a problem, but still somewhat puzzling.
While balancing the brightness of the flash with existing, ambient
light may be a desirable goal - it is not the only priority. There
will be times when using a faster shutter speed to freeze motion,
or a smaller lens aperture to achieve more depth of field, or a
lower ISO to reduce the minimum operating distance for TTL flash
metering will be necessary. We can't expect the camera to evaluate
the subject matter and determine how the priorities should be
established.

There are several factors which influence the minimum operating
distance for TTL flash metering. In no particular order of
importance, these are:

1. Lens focal length. The wider the focal length setting on a
zoom lens, the more minimum operating distance for TTL flash
metering is reduced.

2. ISO. The lower the ISO, the more the minimum operating
distance is reduced.

3. Lens aperture. The smaller the aperture, the more minimum
operating distance is reduced.

For example by setting the ISO to 100, the zoom lens focal length
to 14mm, and the lens aperture to f/11 - the minimum operating
distance for TTL flash metering is 0.2 meters or 9.6 inches. Now,
which of these parameters the photographer will adjust to get
closer will depend on which of his other priorities are being
compromised. Of course, the lens focal length and the ISO can be
changed while the camera is in Program exposure mode. But to gain
control over the lens aperture, it will be necessary to shift into
Aperture preferred or Manual exposure mode.

Gene Windell
--
http://jonr.beecee.org/

 
Hi Jon,

Most camera systems function this same way in program mode. The way around it is to shoot manually. People are scared of it, but quite honestly it is the best way of getting the DOF that you are looking for in your flash shots.

-JM
When in Program mode with the FL-50, the camera selects the widest
aperture, great for maximizing available light, but as a side
effect, the FL-50 gives mininum range of 2.5 meters (AFAIR). That
is just too much, since my subjects are often closer than that. Not
much of a problem, but still somewhat puzzling.
While balancing the brightness of the flash with existing, ambient
light may be a desirable goal - it is not the only priority. There
will be times when using a faster shutter speed to freeze motion,
or a smaller lens aperture to achieve more depth of field, or a
lower ISO to reduce the minimum operating distance for TTL flash
metering will be necessary. We can't expect the camera to evaluate
the subject matter and determine how the priorities should be
established.

There are several factors which influence the minimum operating
distance for TTL flash metering. In no particular order of
importance, these are:

1. Lens focal length. The wider the focal length setting on a
zoom lens, the more minimum operating distance for TTL flash
metering is reduced.

2. ISO. The lower the ISO, the more the minimum operating
distance is reduced.

3. Lens aperture. The smaller the aperture, the more minimum
operating distance is reduced.

For example by setting the ISO to 100, the zoom lens focal length
to 14mm, and the lens aperture to f/11 - the minimum operating
distance for TTL flash metering is 0.2 meters or 9.6 inches. Now,
which of these parameters the photographer will adjust to get
closer will depend on which of his other priorities are being
compromised. Of course, the lens focal length and the ISO can be
changed while the camera is in Program exposure mode. But to gain
control over the lens aperture, it will be necessary to shift into
Aperture preferred or Manual exposure mode.

Gene Windell
--
http://jonr.beecee.org/

 

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