D2H - more on IR noise

  • Thread starter Thread starter edbetz
  • Start date Start date
I just took some shots in my closet of a black sweatshirt, pair of jeans, and a tan pair of pants. I set the ISO to 1250 and took some shots. Black was black not purple. I did this as ISO 200 and it was black. I could not replicate your purple results with AWB. I then set my WB to your settings and the WB was way off but they were not purple. AWB provided perfect colors.
 
Tiffen Standard Hot Mirror Filter U.S.A.
Thats all it says on the filter.
Like I wrote before - it seems that this filter is used more by
high end viedo people today (that figures) so while the high end
photo stores have it- you can also try High end video camera places.
-Ed
Ed,

The lights used in many studio environments can add significant
levels of infra red radiation to a scene that though invisible to
the human eye is quite visible to the sensors used in video camera
equipment (which suprise suprise use CMOS and CCD based sensors
predominantly these days).

You need to recognize the mitigating factors to your use of these
filters and employ them in your shoots just as you would employ
neutral density, polarizing and UV blocking filters to modify
images to your liking.

1) The wavelengths produced by your light sources are important.

2) The reflectivity/absorption characteristics of objects in your
scene is important.

Recognize that certain light sources may have large frequency
components in the IR or UV. As you discovered in your shot about,
tungsten has components in the NIR it also has series in the UV and
little in the standard green/yellow frequencies that humans are
most sensitive to. See this spectrograph of the emission lines of
tungsten:



Note how most of the components are toward the ends of the visible
spectrum. Seeing the spectrogram, it should make sense that setting
proper white balance for your camera is critical to getting the
right appearance from your scene under tungsten light. Too much
balance toward the blue and your red components are lost, too much
toward the red and blue is lost...making the task of calculating an
optically accurate final pixel value for the illuminated material
very difficult. Tungsten lights correspond to about 2850 on the
Kelvin scale, about where you set your camera before shooting the
test so the major contribution of your IR noise is coming from the
reflected (absorbed and reemmited) components in the material of
the jacket. The color calculations for the pixels take the white
balance into account in order to determine the final pixel, if you
set the wrong color temperature it will calculate incorrect values
for the color of pixels. Additionally, the reflectivity or
absorption characteristics of certain materials may make the
situation worse, when you set white balance you are trying to match
your direct lighting from the sources (tungsten) however the
reflected spectra from the illuminated materials can be very
different from the emmission spectra of the light source making it
even more difficult for your sensor and CFA to be able to determine
an optically accurate final pixel color.

Without the hot mirror filter attached, try several shots with the
same scene under the same lighting and vary the white balance, you
should NOT see significant variation in how much purple/blue is
introduced into jacket in the final image(though the rest of the
scene will of course shift). Add several objects that under the
same lighting are also optically black but are composed of
different materials from the cloth in your suit. You should find
that some optically black materials are much better at absorbing
(and not reflecting) the IR from the light source and thus render
pixels in the image that are closer to the "black" of their
apperance to your eye than others. (Assuming the white balance is
set to match the light sources.) Many common day materials which
may appear the same color when observed with the eye appear to glow
when viewed in the IR field as they radiate those frequencies
emmitted from the surrounding light sources to varying degree while
absorbing all other optical frequencies that human eyes would be
sensitive to.

All that said, I think the D2h sensor and CFA combination is such
that under a combination of tungsten lighting and IR reflective
scene materials there is a high likelyhood of calculating an
incorrect (towards blue) pixel value which is particularly
noticeable over dark or IR reflective areas of the scene, this
shows up as pixels rendered with visible blue/purple components
(the yucky chroma noise in the shadows) Using the hot mirror filter
goes a long way apparently to re asserting the spectral balance and
allowing the calculated pixel values to fall under the correct
(optically accurate) colors. If you noticed in Bjorn Rorslett's
review he specifically mentioned that sensitivity to IR for the D2h
is lower than it was in the previous D series (his estimate by
almost 2 stops http://www.naturfotograf.com/index2.html ) which
corroborates the blue/purple noise of certain materials illuminated
under the tungsten sources, the CFA is cutting off half the
incoming illumination components (the lump of near IR red
components of the sodium emmission spectrum) leaving the lump of
blue components relatively alone to form the significant
contribution of the final calculated pixel. That's the best theory
I can muster on the issue so far I'd be interested in reading
alternative views.

If you are interested in the emmision spectra of other elements and
how they compare to Sodium look here:

http://home.achilles.net/~jtalbot/data/elements/

Regards,
--

--
http://radio.weblogs.com/0101365/
 
Hey! I used to work on spectrometers with John Talbot back in the sci.astro days!

This information isn't really pertainent though, because tungsten lighting is not made by tungsten atomic emission, but rather a tungsten wire is heated to a very high temperature until it glows in a continous spectrum. The line spectrum is for the emission of excited atoms of tungsten. The peak wavelength of a tungsten filiment is indeed in the IR, but it also has a lot of visible light, especially at the longer wavelength end of the spectrum. Tungsten illumination has very little ultraviolet.
Ed,

The lights used in many studio environments can add significant
levels of infra red radiation to a scene that though invisible to
the human eye is quite visible to the sensors used in video camera
equipment (which suprise suprise use CMOS and CCD based sensors
predominantly these days).

You need to recognize the mitigating factors to your use of these
filters and employ them in your shoots just as you would employ
neutral density, polarizing and UV blocking filters to modify
images to your liking.

1) The wavelengths produced by your light sources are important.

2) The reflectivity/absorption characteristics of objects in your
scene is important.

Recognize that certain light sources may have large frequency
components in the IR or UV. As you discovered in your shot about,
tungsten has components in the NIR it also has series in the UV and
little in the standard green/yellow frequencies that humans are
most sensitive to. See this spectrograph of the emission lines of
tungsten:



Note how most of the components are toward the ends of the visible
spectrum. Seeing the spectrogram, it should make sense that setting
proper white balance for your camera is critical to getting the
right appearance from your scene under tungsten light. Too much
balance toward the blue and your red components are lost, too much
toward the red and blue is lost...making the task of calculating an
optically accurate final pixel value for the illuminated material
very difficult. Tungsten lights correspond to about 2850 on the
Kelvin scale, about where you set your camera before shooting the
test so the major contribution of your IR noise is coming from the
reflected (absorbed and reemmited) components in the material of
the jacket. The color calculations for the pixels take the white
balance into account in order to determine the final pixel, if you
set the wrong color temperature it will calculate incorrect values
for the color of pixels. Additionally, the reflectivity or
absorption characteristics of certain materials may make the
situation worse, when you set white balance you are trying to match
your direct lighting from the sources (tungsten) however the
reflected spectra from the illuminated materials can be very
different from the emmission spectra of the light source making it
even more difficult for your sensor and CFA to be able to determine
an optically accurate final pixel color.

Without the hot mirror filter attached, try several shots with the
same scene under the same lighting and vary the white balance, you
should NOT see significant variation in how much purple/blue is
introduced into jacket in the final image(though the rest of the
scene will of course shift). Add several objects that under the
same lighting are also optically black but are composed of
different materials from the cloth in your suit. You should find
that some optically black materials are much better at absorbing
(and not reflecting) the IR from the light source and thus render
pixels in the image that are closer to the "black" of their
apperance to your eye than others. (Assuming the white balance is
set to match the light sources.) Many common day materials which
may appear the same color when observed with the eye appear to glow
when viewed in the IR field as they radiate those frequencies
emmitted from the surrounding light sources to varying degree while
absorbing all other optical frequencies that human eyes would be
sensitive to.

All that said, I think the D2h sensor and CFA combination is such
that under a combination of tungsten lighting and IR reflective
scene materials there is a high likelyhood of calculating an
incorrect (towards blue) pixel value which is particularly
noticeable over dark or IR reflective areas of the scene, this
shows up as pixels rendered with visible blue/purple components
(the yucky chroma noise in the shadows) Using the hot mirror filter
goes a long way apparently to re asserting the spectral balance and
allowing the calculated pixel values to fall under the correct
(optically accurate) colors. If you noticed in Bjorn Rorslett's
review he specifically mentioned that sensitivity to IR for the D2h
is lower than it was in the previous D series (his estimate by
almost 2 stops http://www.naturfotograf.com/index2.html ) which
corroborates the blue/purple noise of certain materials illuminated
under the tungsten sources, the CFA is cutting off half the
incoming illumination components (the lump of near IR red
components of the sodium emmission spectrum) leaving the lump of
blue components relatively alone to form the significant
contribution of the final calculated pixel. That's the best theory
I can muster on the issue so far I'd be interested in reading
alternative views.

If you are interested in the emmision spectra of other elements and
how they compare to Sodium look here:

http://home.achilles.net/~jtalbot/data/elements/

Regards,
--

--
http://radio.weblogs.com/0101365/
 
I think the D2H needs to age and burn in, and a lot of problems seem to dissapear.

I have a real low serial number and do not experience many of the problems that I have seen in the forums.

The D2H is really pushing the state of the art.
But the settings one has used in the past now require more thinking.

Yes you can get great pictures under many difficult conditions or you can get medioca pictures.
We all need to study and experiment to learn this new beast.

I just wish that Nikon would issue a primer for the talented photographer.
Maybe Thom Hogen will have all of this in his upcoming book or disc.

Also it is interesting that the people who in the past have rushed reviews,
now are confused because now they must study the camera.

Interesting our friend from Norway really published the first early review.
Tho not complete as he is still working on it.
Now I would expect many others to try to rush out a review.

I think that we early users have all done a very good job in our limited use,of makeing the best review.

There are many talented people on this forum and other forums who have done a superb job in making the best review of the D2H.

Thank you all.

Now I think the D2X will be a real killer.

Birger
I just took some shots in my closet of a black sweatshirt, pair of
jeans, and a tan pair of pants. I set the ISO to 1250 and took some
shots. Black was black not purple. I did this as ISO 200 and it was
black. I could not replicate your purple results with AWB. I then
set my WB to your settings and the WB was way off but they were not
purple. AWB provided perfect colors.
 
I just finnished a study session for freshman chemistry and I'm drinking a glass of Beujolis Nouvous, so my head don't hurt neither. :)

I don't think the hot mirror makes the blue channel need (much) more boosting. I say much, because it may cut out a bit of the blue, and if you're using auto WB, it would automatically compensate. I have found that the blue channel is (almost) always noisier than the other channels, AND the IR that is being cut by the HM partly comes across as blue light. Way back when I used a coolpix 950 to do IR photography, I was curious as to where the false colors came from, so I took a spectrum of the light that came through the filter:

http://radio.weblogs.com/0101365/2002/12/04.html#a267

Notice the blue at the extreme left of the spectrum, over at 800+ nanometers (in the near IR part of the spectrum.) The camera's sensor (although this is a 950's sensor, they may be similar) can't tell this false blue from real blue, so it shows up in the blue channel. Thus filtering out the IR would cut this 'false' blue out, removing the purple cast (purple=blue+red) from your photos, and lowering the intensity of the blue channel.

I'm not sure this explains increased noise in the unfiltered photos though.
So, what I still don't understand is why the blue channel is so
much brighter without the hot mirror filter. I understand why the
blue channel would have to be boosted with tungsten light, but why
would the hot mirror change the level that it has to be boosted.
I'm missing something, although, after the asprin and the scotch -
my head doesn't hurt anymore.
-Ed
--
http://radio.weblogs.com/0101365/
 
It's really difficult to judge the amount of near infrared from any particular light source. Different light bulbs would give different results and different materials would have different reflectivities. Then again, different D2h's could have different strengths (absorbancies) of the internal hot mirror, if it even has one.

I'll bet Ed's camera would take a teriffic IR photo if used with an 89B or R70 filter!
I just took some shots in my closet of a black sweatshirt, pair of
jeans, and a tan pair of pants. I set the ISO to 1250 and took some
shots. Black was black not purple. I did this as ISO 200 and it was
black. I could not replicate your purple results with AWB. I then
set my WB to your settings and the WB was way off but they were not
purple. AWB provided perfect colors.
--
http://radio.weblogs.com/0101365/
 
I think this shows a clearer example of the effect a hot mirror has
on a D2H image. These pictures are of a pair of suit pants and
matching tie. The pants are BLACK and the tie BLACK and GRAY.
I'm a conservative dresser, no purple for me.

I won't tell you the one with the hot mirror, you'll have to scroll
down to see that.





Both images were shot under a single source tungsten light with a
white balance set to 2550K. The ISO is 1250 -The exposure times
were the same.

Someone wrote in a previous post that the difference wasn't really
noticeable - well, I guess it depends on your perception

Now, what I have to test is how the D1H and D100 do on this same test.

My web host is getting a little peeved about the amount of band
with I'm taking up, so I didn't post the full size links , in this
sample the side by side is a crop 100% of the full image which is
shown as a top and bottom comparison. If you really want a full
size, drop me an e-mail and I'll give you a link.

If you couldn't tell,

The image on the
LEFT and BOTTOM
are the ones with the Hot Mirror.

--
Ed Betz
http://www.edbetz.com
Ed, I appreciate your work here. And like Bill Dewey, I wonder how and when it would be most appropriate to use this. I also agree that this is probably something that Nikon development engineers could do well to investigate and implement. BUT, I do see a difference in sharpness between the two files. Where the pants in the filtered file are extremely sharp, the tie leaves a bit to be desired. In the unfiltered file, the tie looks great and the pants are full of red and quite soft. I can't help wondering if that couldn't be addressed with de-moire and a WB adjustment.

While I have not tried to duplicate your test, I wonder, too, if digslr isn't right, that your camera is defective--or if Carol Steele isn't right, that it just takes some time for the sensor to "cure."
--
Karen

...but if you try sometimes, you just might find, you get what you need.

http://www.e-designarts.com
http://www.edaphoto.com
http://www.pbase.com/kecohen/sports_action
 
I can assure you my D2H is not defective. I spent quite some time finding a pair of slacks in my collection that would illutrate this. The slacks are wool, but I'm not sure that is the difference. It could be the dye. If you try this test yourself, with a single source 60 watt bulb at about 5 feet at iso 1250, I'm sure you can duplicate what I have shown here (to one extent or another) You may have to try several different types of fabric. As another poster mentioned, the Black of the top of the Television you can see in part of the frame appears black, with little boost in the blue channel. Tha is because it does not reflect IR light the way the pants did.

This is not the only D2H I have shot with, and I can assure you that the other one performed quite the same.

You may have noted, several posts here and other places stating that the D2H seems to some photographers very noisey is a gives cituation. What I'm trying to do is to find those situations, figure out the cause and find a solution.
But thanks for taking the time to post.

-Ed
I just took some shots in my closet of a black sweatshirt, pair of
jeans, and a tan pair of pants. I set the ISO to 1250 and took some
shots. Black was black not purple. I did this as ISO 200 and it was
black. I could not replicate your purple results with AWB. I then
set my WB to your settings and the WB was way off but they were not
purple. AWB provided perfect colors.
--
Ed Betz
http://www.edbetz.com
 
kecohen wrote:
First, let me assure you that the sensor does not need to "cure"

I can't think of a single reason, backed by good science, which could explain a sensor needing to cure. The technical nightmare of even the thought of that would make any engineer crazy.

As for my D2H being defective, let me say again, this is not the only D2H I have shot with I have used several and I could duplicate this with any one of the.

On to the focus - or which photo looks sharper.

I'll start by saying that I did mention in my original post, that this test was not intended to compare sharpness. To do that I would have had to lock the camera on a tripod and tape the lens in place, carefully removing the filter. I did not do this.

I did, however shoot dozens and dozens of frames both with and without the hot mirror filter installed. In EVERY instance, the blue channel showed an identical gain and the image looked 'purple' instead of black.

There are several things that could explain the focus difference, and I'll leave it to one of the more technical people to explain in detail, but let me give it my best shot based on what I've already read here and elsewhere.

The first, and most basic answer is, that the focus was off a little in the frame without the hot mirror. Possible, I just can't say for sure.

Second possibility is that the IR light focuses at a different point and there for makes the images look softer. If you look at the green channel of the image without the hot mirror you will notice that it looks sharper then the blue channel and the blue channel looks much softer then the blue channel with the filter installed.

Also at play here is weather the camera's focus system would also be affected this same way - there for causing the camera to think it is focused without the hot mirror filter when it is not. The difference, when you look at the overall picture is minimal.

I really wish I had the tools (and knowledge of light) to test exactly what freq. of light effects this LBCAST and how, and what freq. of light was eliminated by this filter. This would be very helpful, but I simply don't have the tools.

This example was the worst case I could find of all the clothing I tested (And I tested lots). Some did not show any shift, and some, like the hat in my first test showed only slight shift in color and blue channel noise/boost.

While it is possible that all of the D2H's I have used (I believe there are a total of 4 now 2 of my own and 2 that belonged to others) are defective, I'm willing to bet that the odds are what I have shown here is typical of the D2H performance in a worst case lighting and fabric situation.

I also am starting to believe that the hot mirror could also reduce (or eliminate) the problem some people have reported with off colored flesh tones. I say this based on my experience with the NC2000, an early generation (1995) digital camera. It did not have a hot mirror filter at all. Much of what I have seen her reminds me of that camera and while I am in no way saying that this camera even comes close to the noise issues of the NC2000, there are some similar traits.

So I'll forge ahead.

I did send these images to my contact at Nikon. He assured me he would pass them along to his technical people both here and in Japan. I'll let you know what his findings are.

Sorry this was so long, but I think if I leave it as just a problem with my camera, many people will jump on board and agree when I know this not to be the case.

Lastly, I know that there are many post processing ways to eliminate moise and color shift, but I'd really rather hear from the technical people about how to fix this problem per production.

Thanks,

-Ed
Ed, I appreciate your work here. And like Bill Dewey, I wonder how
and when it would be most appropriate to use this. I also agree
that this is probably something that Nikon development engineers
could do well to investigate and implement. BUT, I do see a
difference in sharpness between the two files. Where the pants in
the filtered file are extremely sharp, the tie leaves a bit to be
desired. In the unfiltered file, the tie looks great and the pants
are full of red and quite soft. I can't help wondering if that
couldn't be addressed with de-moire and a WB adjustment.

While I have not tried to duplicate your test, I wonder, too, if
digslr isn't right, that your camera is defective--or if Carol
Steele isn't right, that it just takes some time for the sensor to
"cure."
--
Karen

...but if you try sometimes, you just might find, you get what you
need.

http://www.e-designarts.com
http://www.edaphoto.com
http://www.pbase.com/kecohen/sports_action
--
Ed Betz
http://www.edbetz.com
 
Ed,

Can you try making a photo of IR remote control, taking long exposure while pointing it to the lens and holding some button on the control? IMHO that would help to identify the problem a little bit.

--
no text
 
What I'm up here is that there is a probability that blue filter has some allowence for IR. Would be interesting to see what color IR emmitance from the diode would be on the image.

--
no text
 
Here is a photo if the light from my TV remote.
By the way, as expected, the same shot with the hot mirror filter is just black.



Now, tell me again what this is going to show?
  • Ed
What I'm up here is that there is a probability that blue filter
has some allowence for IR. Would be interesting to see what color
IR emmitance from the diode would be on the image.

--
no text
--
Ed Betz
http://www.edbetz.com
 
Here is a photo if the light from my TV remote.
By the way, as expected, the same shot with the hot mirror filter
is just black.



Now, tell me again what this is going to show?
As expected, the filter has IR allowence. What was the exposition?

Blue channel is affected. Can you e-mail me NEF? [email protected]

--
no text
 
I would be happy to send you whatever you want, you've been very helpful.

This was a quick, poorly controled test, in that, the exposure was two seconds and during that time I flashed the remote several times.

I didn't really focus or anything like that.

If you could describe a more controled test I'd be happy to give it a try and then send you a NEF that makes some sence.
-Ed
Here is a photo if the light from my TV remote.
By the way, as expected, the same shot with the hot mirror filter
is just black.



Now, tell me again what this is going to show?
As expected, the filter has IR allowence. What was the exposition?

Blue channel is affected. Can you e-mail me NEF? [email protected]

--
no text
--
Ed Betz
http://www.edbetz.com
 
First, let me assure you that the sensor does not need to "cure"
I can't think of a single reason, backed by good science, which
could explain a sensor needing to cure. The technical nightmare of
even the thought of that would make any engineer crazy.
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1021&message=6934689

Not that this is the definitive word on the subject, but Thom does seem to have a pretty good handle on this stuff.
--
Karen

...but if you try sometimes, you just might find, you get what you need.

http://www.e-designarts.com
http://www.edaphoto.com
http://www.pbase.com/kecohen/sports_action
 
David,

Thanks for taking the time to describe, in detail, what I have experienced in my photos.

You seem to really understand light and have a technical understanding way beyond anything I think I'm capable of.

I know from this series of tests, that the IR light (or some portion of non visible near IR light) is affecting the image quality in a negative way. What I'm wondering about is what causes some of the other unpleasant effects I've seen, and is it possible that they are other non-visible lights?

Some of the other noise I've experienced is not of the blue/magenta color (I'll refer to on a technical level as 'that ugly purple look'), but rather I see more yellow and green artifacts in some images that are just as unpleasant.

The next question is, would it be possible to have a filter that filtered out all non-visible light and what effect this would have on the ccd or image quality.

If you could give all of that a shot it would help.
Thanks,
-Ed Betz
http://www.edbetz.com
 

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top