Northern Lights - Advice

I have lived in southern finland my entire life, and been to lapland a few times... and never seen northern light...

But the basic drill for night-shots... stable tripod timer-release and mirror-lockup....
 
The fact that they were reflected in the water was a bonus. Funny thing was, they were white to our eyes, but the camera caught them as green. Good luck and I can't wait to see what you get!

--
Diane
- - - - -
Visit my online portfolio:
http://www.dcsphotography.com
 
A tripod is mandatory. A release or self timer must be used.

Shoot in manual mode.

Open the lens up wide to get the lowest ISO possible.

Keep the shutter speed at 1/30 or less to prevent star trails. 1/20 would be even better.

With my 17-40 f4.0L, I was shooting 1/30, f4.0 and ISO 400 and 800. A faster lens would be better.

Here are two examples:
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Pictures/2003-10-29_23-00-04.aspx
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Pictures/2003-10-29_23-46-51.aspx

Regards,

Bryan
--
See my gallery: http://www.The-Digital-Picture.com
Learn how to save money online: http://www.Save-U.com
 
I'm a little puzzled here.. so u're saying the 'sky' was looking a nice green.. but its reflection in the water was white... and when u took the photo, the reflections turned out green???

I'm really interested in this kinda night photography.. where can I go to see this?
The fact that they were reflected in the water was a bonus. Funny
thing was, they were white to our eyes, but the camera caught them
as green. Good luck and I can't wait to see what you get!

--
Diane
- - - - -
Visit my online portfolio:
http://www.dcsphotography.com
--

Cheers,
kevin aka mun weng

My idea of a perfect weekend:
shooting football from the end zone with a 600mm F4 L IS.

My photo website:
http://www.cs.wisc.edu/~mun-weng/

Photosig:
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=106220
 
I have lived in southern finland my entire life, and been to
lapland a few times... and never seen northern light...

But the basic drill for night-shots... stable tripod timer-release
and mirror-lockup....
For long exposure shots (> 1sec) mirror lockup is not helpful at all. Just make sure that the tripod doesn't move or vibrate by the wind, if wind blows.
--Jens--
 
With a 30 second or so shot, what appears white to your eye may appear bright red or green in the shot. I have used to camera to determine if what I was seeing was a cloud - or the Northern Lights. I wish they were visible more often - but I guess they would not be so special.

Check out this web site:
http://www.spaceweather.com/

Regards,

Bryan
--
See my gallery: http://www.The-Digital-Picture.com
Learn how to save money online: http://www.Save-U.com
 
wait a minute... so what you will be seeing is a faint green in the sky and the camera's long exposure can make the green tones stronger.. I believe this is the case?

or.. the northern lights are not visible at all to our eyes and only to the camera.... I'm confused.
With a 30 second or so shot, what appears white to your eye may
appear bright red or green in the shot. I have used to camera to
determine if what I was seeing was a cloud - or the Northern
Lights. I wish they were visible more often - but I guess they
would not be so special.

Check out this web site:
http://www.spaceweather.com/

Regards,

Bryan
--
See my gallery: http://www.The-Digital-Picture.com
Learn how to save money online: http://www.Save-U.com
--

Cheers,
kevin aka mun weng

My idea of a perfect weekend:
shooting football from the end zone with a 600mm F4 L IS.

My photo website:
http://www.cs.wisc.edu/~mun-weng/

Photosig:
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=106220
 
For long exposure shots (> 1sec) mirror lockup is not helpful at
all. Just make sure that the tripod doesn't move or vibrate by the
wind, if wind blows.
--Jens--
Right. I would even remove the strap or fold it up and put a rubber band around it so it doesn't flap. The aurora was actually visible here in Indianapolis, IN, USA in October. I had to use ISO 800, self-timer, and 1/30 sec exposures to get shots since I'm so far south and light pollution is an issue. I used my 28-135 for most of my shots since it's my widest lens right now, but f3.5 @ 28mm isn't very fast. I also tried my 50mm f1.8 stopped down a stop to improve image quality, but the field of view isn't nearly wide enough for a landscape like that.

Again, it may look like light clouds or haze to your eyes, even after they have adjusted for the dark. Take a shot with your camera and review it to find out if you're actually seeing the aurora. I dimmed my LCD all the way down to reduce the night-blindness it can cause when reviewing.

Just experiment a bit and have fun! I can't wait to see your shots. Oh, and bundle up!

-Brian
 
wait a minute... so what you will be seeing is a faint green in the
sky and the camera's long exposure can make the green tones
stronger.. I believe this is the case?

or.. the northern lights are not visible at all to our eyes and
only to the camera.... I'm confused.
The former -- pale lights tend to appear lighter in color to our eyes, and darker when exposed in a camera. At low light levels, the eye sacrifices color for greyscale detail.
 
My reply from the post on the lens forum....

Howdy from Juneau, Alaska! Boy, 4 days in Lapland would be very, very cool!

I"ve been taking many aurora shots this fall/winter. Here are some of the things I've learned:

1) try and use a reasonable ISO - going above 400 really effects your results. I try and stay ay 200.

2) try and keep your exposure time to a minimum. This is a balancing act between aperture (see below) and setting the ISO. I've found that with my 10D going to over a minute exposure time effects image quality.

3) I try and use an aperture that is stoppoed down at least 1 or 2 stops from completely open so that any foreground objects stand a chance of being somewaht sharp.

4) Go wide! I use both a 15 fish and 17-35 (always at 17).
5) A tripod is a must
6) so is a cable release.

7) if you have a timer with your cable release the previous poster's idea of setting it to automatically take a series of shots at intervals is a great one.

8) don't forget to look around - while you're entranced by lights in front of you, there may be bettr lights in back of you!

9) in terms of composition, it's nice to have foregound objects to set the stage

10) don't trust your LCD preview screen to show you whether you've gotten a decent exposure - always, always check your histogram and make sure everything's not completely bunched at the left side.

11) take the photos in RAW format so you can play with white balance, etc.
12) buy and use Neat Image to get rid of noise

13) be careful of light pollution. lights shining around you will negatively effect your images (potentially leading to washed out photos and playing hell with the white balance).

14) dress very, very warm.
15) take a headlamp or flashlight/torch so you can see what your doing

16) frequently check your lens for frost build-up - try to keep the lens cover on to aviod frost when not shooting (lens shades work well too).

17) don't forget that batteries die quickly in the cold.
18) Use more than one camera if possible so you get more shots!
19) Have fun!

Here are a few sample images and a URL to some of my images:

http://www.pbase.com/akclimber/northern_lights





 

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