Michael Fryd
Forum Pro
Digital is not a brick wall. It's only a brick wall if you set your camera to expect a specific target exposure and shoot JPEG. That's similar to shooting transparencies.Not quite. As an amateur, the film in my camera was whatever I loaded the last time. I stopped developing my own negatives and printing myself to avoid all that mess. Just by eyeballing my negatives, the exposure was all over the place. Yet, the prints looked good. Film has a wide tolerance not just for under exposure but for overexposure as well. With digital, it is a brick wall, and you must be careful.Yes. Film required an exposure centric workflow. The first step was to determine the desired exposure. You then load film designed for that exposure. The workflow is then built around hitting that target. Film photographers had it drilled into them that if they had to keep aperture and shutter balanced. Change one, and you had to make a corresponding change to the other.
With digital, you can set your camera to Auto-ISO and tolerate a much wider ranger of exposures than with film. With film, you also had issues with tone curve changes as you moved away from the recommended target exposure.
That's not part of the ISO Digital Speed specification, and is not implemented in all cameras.No. The high ISO of digital cameras also serves the purpose of lowering the noise in low light.Now we shoot digital, and we are no longer required to work that way. Under the hood, digital does not work the same as film. Unlike film, digital sensors have a wide range of exposures where they will produce good results. The concept of digital ISO-speed is a fabrication intended to ease the transition from film to digital (that's according to the spec itself).
In fact, some cameras produce the same raw data, independent of the ISO setting. For those cameras, the ISO setting only affects how the raw data is interpreted. These cameras are conforming to the ISO spec.
Film does not generally offer an Auto-ISO option. Once the film is loaded into the camera, you need to get an exposure consistent with the film's limited response curve.You can do that with film, too but with digital, you cab blow the highlights. In both cases, there are penalties, just different ones.With digital you can alter the aperture and leave the shutter unchanged. Auto-ISO handles maintaining constant image lightness.
With digital, the "curve" is flatter, and the flat portion of the curve is much larger.
Yes. No solution is ideal for all situations. No matter what solution you pick, I can find an example where it is not ideal.Your solution is less than ideal, too. I am going to shoot a low light event next weekend. Should I bring my 71mm aperture narrow angle lens or my 52mm aperture “normal angle” lens? BTW, the former is 400/5.6 while the latter is 50/1.2..
But old habits are hard to change. The industry standardized on relative f/stops and focal lengths. Even though many current photographers never shot film, they are still dealing with choices designed around film.
The industry has been trying to address this. That's where crop factors come from. With the introduction of the digital SLR consumers could use the same lens on full frame DSLRs and small sensors DSLRs. Crop factors are an attempt to explain how the results differ with smaller sensors.
While crop factors are normally applied only to focal length, they also apply to f/stop.
Thus we are left with using equivalent focal length as a proxy for angle of view, and equivalent f/stop as a proxy for aperture diameter.
Yes, this isn't ideal, but it's the way it is.
How will the AOV of my 46 AOV lens change if I use it on a crop camera? Which dedicated APS-C lens can it replicate?
Yes, that's a typo on my part. Thanks for catching that.Actually, it is. It is not a measure of wattage though but it is not meant to be.This idea of using proxy values is not limited to photography. In the USA one can buy 15 Watt light bulbs that are marketed as 100W equivalent. Wattage is a measure of how much power the bulb uses, not how much light it uses. A 15W bulb only uses 15W. However, it produces the same amount of light as a traditional 100W incandescent bulb.
It's hard to find incandescent bulbs in my local store, but bulbs are still marketed with "equivalent wattage".
"Equivalent wattage" is not a measure of light output.
"Equivalent wattage" is a measure of light output. It confuses many as they think you can't put a 100 Equivalent Watt LED into a fixture labeled "60W Max".
But it confuses many who think it is. Take a look on these forums and you will find many posts where someone thinks that when you put a 100mm lens on a 1.5X crop body, the focal length changes to 150mm lens.It doesn’t have to be."Equivalent focal length" is not a measure of focal length.
There are many posts questioning where the poster "understands" that a 50mm full frame lens on a 1.5X crop body becomes 75mm, but asks what happens to a 50mm crop lens on a crop body? Does that still become 75mm or does it stay 50mm as it was designed for crop cameras?
