My First Impressions of the OM Systems 50-200 f2.8.

I totally agree on all your observations. It is amazing how quickly the AF snaps to focus. Sync IS lets me shoot at 1/25 sec shutter speed. Very sharp lens. Smooth andbpleasant out if focus rendering. After a week I am really enjoying the lens.
 
I also notice the news lens focuses faster with no hesitation comparing to the 40-150 and 200mm in low light and at slow SS like 1/25 or under.
I don’t experience any AF hesitation from my 40-150 PRO on my OM-1.1 in an ice rink (ISO between 3200-6400), but I do experience AF hesitation on my G9.2
I never have that either when shooting indoor soccer where ISO is 12,800-20,000 with my SS 1/800 or 1/1000 both 40-150 or 200 Prime.

As I said, I noticed this with low light and need to use very slow SS that is when I observed this. For example, 1/10 to 1/25 SS with ISO at 4000 to 8000.
 
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I also notice the news lens focuses faster with no hesitation comparing to the 40-150 and 200mm in low light and at slow SS like 1/25 or under.
I don’t experience any AF hesitation from my 40-150 PRO on my OM-1.1 in an ice rink (ISO between 3200-6400), but I do experience AF hesitation on my G9.2
I never have that either when shooting indoor soccer where ISO is 12,800-20,000 with my SS 1/800 or 1/1000 both 40-150 or 200 Prime.

As I said, I noticed this with low light and need to use very slow SS that is when I observed this. For example, 1/10 to 1/25 SS with ISO at 4000 to 8000.
My images in an ice rink become unusable over ISO 6400. I’m assuming a large reason is the interference from plexiglass between me and subject. Very few rinks (even college level) have photographer portals available.
 
I also notice the news lens focuses faster with no hesitation comparing to the 40-150 and 200mm in low light and at slow SS like 1/25 or under.
I don’t experience any AF hesitation from my 40-150 PRO on my OM-1.1 in an ice rink (ISO between 3200-6400), but I do experience AF hesitation on my G9.2
I never have that either when shooting indoor soccer where ISO is 12,800-20,000 with my SS 1/800 or 1/1000 both 40-150 or 200 Prime.

As I said, I noticed this with low light and need to use very slow SS that is when I observed this. For example, 1/10 to 1/25 SS with ISO at 4000 to 8000.
My images in an ice rink become unusable over ISO 6400. I’m assuming a large reason is the interference from plexiglass between me and subject. Very few rinks (even college level) have photographer portals available.
I don't know how you did it but I couldn't make any good shots at ice rinks through those plexiglass no matter what ISO! I only have done this occasionally when my daughter and her friends went for ice skating fun.

Anyhow as for those high ISO, I only making point about the AF situation. Usually, those images are to the bin unless they really are of special moment capturing. I also ETTR and always bring down exposure in post by close to half the stop usually.

Anyhow, now I only need just this new lens and one wide angle lens (possibly adding 75 F1.8 into the bag without feeling the added weight) for shooting the soccer games with two bodies. This is why I said a while back this lens would be an instant buy for me to replace both 40-150mm and 200mm Prime.
 
I also notice the news lens focuses faster with no hesitation comparing to the 40-150 and 200mm in low light and at slow SS like 1/25 or under.
I don’t experience any AF hesitation from my 40-150 PRO on my OM-1.1 in an ice rink (ISO between 3200-6400), but I do experience AF hesitation on my G9.2
I never have that either when shooting indoor soccer where ISO is 12,800-20,000 with my SS 1/800 or 1/1000 both 40-150 or 200 Prime.

As I said, I noticed this with low light and need to use very slow SS that is when I observed this. For example, 1/10 to 1/25 SS with ISO at 4000 to 8000.
My images in an ice rink become unusable over ISO 6400. I’m assuming a large reason is the interference from plexiglass between me and subject. Very few rinks (even college level) have photographer portals available.
I don't know how you did it but I couldn't make any good shots at ice rinks through those plexiglass no matter what ISO! I only have done this occasionally when my daughter and her friends went for ice skating fun.

Anyhow as for those high ISO, I only making point about the AF situation. Usually, those images are to the bin unless they really are of special moment capturing. I also ETTR and always bring down exposure in post by close to half the stop usually.

Anyhow, now I only need just this new lens and one wide angle lens (possibly adding 75 F1.8 into the bag without feeling the added weight) for shooting the soccer games with two bodies. This is why I said a while back this lens would be an instant buy for me to replace both 40-150mm and 200mm Prime.
Trick-of-trade: step 1, you will require noise reduction software (Adobe, Topaz or DxO). I find DxO superior especially for OM cameras.

step 2: manual mode. 1/1250, F2.8, ISO is (depends on rink. Usually I’m at 3200 or 5000). Nothing auto.

Step 3: single AF point (smallest box). Use joystick and place single point/smallest box AF on player chest just below neck. You can attempt for the helmet, but action moves so fast that it is a challenge to track the head, why I track the upper torso.

step 4: turn off subject detection. Only use this if you are a Nikon z9 only. Not even Canon or Sony, turn it off.

step 5: use lens hood and place lens hood directly on the glass. Do not rotate lens more than 45 degree against flat surface of glass. This is mandatory in order to cut down on the glare. If play is against boards even if away from you, remove camera from glass otherwise when glass flexes, your camera will smash you in the face. The more your lens hood is flat against the glass, the cleaner the image.

step 6: let the action come to you, never chase the action. I usually photograph in one of the four corners.
 
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Trick-of-trade: step 1, you will require noise reduction software (Adobe, Topaz or DxO). I find DxO superior especially for OM cameras.

step 2: manual mode. 1/1250, F2.8, ISO is (depends on rink. Usually I’m at 3200 or 5000). Nothing auto.

Step 3: single AF point (smallest box). Use joystick and place single point/smallest box AF on player chest just below neck. You can attempt for the helmet, but action moves so fast that it is a challenge to track the head, why I track the upper torso.

step 4: turn off subject detection. Only use this if you are a Nikon z9 only. Not even Canon or Sony, turn it off.

step 5: use lens hood and place lens hood directly on the glass. Do not rotate lens more than 45 degree against flat surface of glass. This is mandatory in order to cut down on the glare. If play is against boards even if away from you, remove camera from glass otherwise when glass flexes, your camera will smash you in the face. The more your lens hood is flat against the glass, the cleaner the image.

step 6: let the action come to you, never chase the action. I usually photograph in one of the four corners.
First of all, thanks for those tips. Only thing I have never done for ice rinks shooting is your step 5. That should do the trick!

Regardless, I don't fancy doing this sport much or at all. It is much easier shooting other sports without something in front of you but your subjects :-).
 
Looks nice and sharp and focus is right on when looking at your jpeg blown up, thanks for posting!

95bb0f0750fb4e7f86ec67fc796b1bf6.jpg
 
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Great: good to know.

Mine arrived this morning, but I’m not going to be able to test it properly until next week: I’ve got a standard on-tripod test I do against the concrete lines of a wall on one of the university buildings in town.

I don’t suppose you have access to an MC-20?
I will try to do a quick check with the MC-20 today to at least see if it is better than a crop of the bare lens or better than a crop of the MC14. This still will not tell you if it is better or worse than the 100-400 at 400mm. My guess is always that a lens that is 400mm will be better than a 200mm lens with a 2x TC.
The only concerns expressed over good copies of this lens seem to have been when combined with the longer TC, where it’s said to be not quite as sharp as the 100-400 mkii at the same focal lengths. Not a big deal for me at all, since the 100-400ii I had was very sharp, but it would be useful to know, and to what extent.
Yes, I agree it’s almost certain not to be as good on a pixel-peep, but I couldn’t care less if the difference doesn’t show in an A4 print (with a modest image crop, after processing in PureRaw 4 and Capture One).

That’s my criterion: how much better are we talking about? Nobody has yet provided worthwhile evidence on this, as far as I’ve seen.
 

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