Which UWA for Z mount?

Martian977

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Hi Everyone,

I am seeking advice as to which UWA will complete my Z-mount lens set. This new wide angle lens will be primarily used for landscape and travel photography. And by 'travel' I mean dedicated photography while travelling, not holiday snap shots. The secondary use case will be astro, caves & other low light settings, long exposure photography and timelapse.

So far, none of the Z-mount offerings can match all my criteria, so I guess I will have to compromise.

Ideal lens would be:

- Made by Nikon, preferably S-line

- Wider than 20mm (around 16mm is fine, but 14mm is even better)

- F2.8 or brighter

- Take regular size screw in filters (I have a collection of 67 and 77mm filters. Adding 82 or 112mm is not ideal but not a show stopper)

- Make presentable sunstars

- Overall good quality, reasonably sharp and not super heavy (700g+)



This leaves me with 14-24s, 20s and Tamron 16-30. Not a big fan of 14-30s or Chinese offerings, but I keep my options open.

The 14-24s is probably the safest bet with the only compromise being the 112mm filters. It's not cheap, but it is within my budget.

The 20s would be perfect if only it was a little bit wider. I am very tempted, but I fear the 20mm might not be wide enough and stitching panoramas is not always an option. Sure, for the price of 14-24s I can have 20s AND 14-30s, but I would prefer to keep things simple and have just one UWA lens.

And finally the Tamron 16-30 looks great on paper, but it is not Nikon S-line. I had Tamrons in the past and there was nothing wrong with them. But when I migrated to Z-mount I wanted to build a high quality S-line lens collection of 3-4 highly functional, no-compromise lenses (for my needs) and I am not sure Tamron fits the bill.

Any first-hand experience and suggestion will be highly appreciated.

Pictures below for reference:







8a9c01efc0184bb59bffbe01a60acdae.jpg



7a03141da1ce4a1ebcce60022f4394a3.jpg



 
I know nothing beyond it except the specs and review, but while you wait for Nikon, the Viltrox 16mm f/1.8 looks interesting.

 
what about the Nikon 17-28mm F2.8?

its a Rebranded Tamron lens, I haven't used it myself but if its anything like my Tamron F mount 17-35mm it will be a superb lens.
 
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It looks like you already own the Tamron 17-35mm F2.8-4 Di OSD (the very recent A037 version with a silver ring near the mount) and have been using it on your D750.

This lens works perfectly on the FT1 and is still one of the best in its category, with an image quality on par or better than classics like Nikkor 18-35 G, or the 16-35 VR. It is lightweight and uses 77mm filters.

There may be better options with a native Z mount, but I do not have any experience with any of these. Anyway, to start with, I would suggest you mount and use your Tamron 17-35!

Gabriel
 
The Tamron 17-35 is a decent lens and served me well over the years, but it is far from perfect. True, it is lightweight and cheap, but it also feels cheap. The focusing ring moves which is irritating. Sunstars can be better. And most importantly I have dropped my lens last year and the extending barrel got a little bit loose. Still usable, but looking to replase this lens in near future. No point buying the same F-mount third party lens when I gradually transition to Z-mount.
 
The Z14-24 is the King Of 'Em All in terms of the usual metrics--"sharpness" across the frame, illumination falloff, distortion etc. It's not even very heavy. The front end of it is weirdly big if you use the filter-capable hood.

The alternative at f/2.8 is carrying 15, 18, 20, and 24mm primes. There are no Z primes at 15mm and 18mm, so you'd be looking at F mount Zeiss 15mm and 18mm, which are heavy and bulky.
 
The Z14-24 is the King Of 'Em All in terms of the usual metrics--"sharpness" across the frame, illumination falloff, distortion etc. It's not even very heavy. The front end of it is weirdly big if you use the filter-capable hood.

The alternative at f/2.8 is carrying 15, 18, 20, and 24mm primes. There are no Z primes at 15mm and 18mm, so you'd be looking at F mount Zeiss 15mm and 18mm, which are heavy and bulky.
To be fair the 18mm Milvus isnt THAT big and only moderately heavy at 720g, performance wise thats definitely the best true UWA lens I'v used on F-mount, a step above the F-mount zooms being mentioned and as good build quality as anything.

Does have the advantage of that bit more width than the 20mm F/1.8 S mentioned plus it takes relatively normal sized filters at 77mm and seems to be pretty well regarded as an astro lens with limited coma.

The main criticism at the time was that it was overpriced at over two grand but used prices have come down a lot, albeit they seem to vary significantly, got it for £450 a few months ago.
 
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Thank you, I will definitely check that one out
 
Wouldn't it make sense to ask this question on the Z mount forum rather than the SLR lens forum?
 
I have both 14-30 and 14-24. (Also 16-35 and 14-24 in f-mount).

I almost always use the 14-30, because it fits my bag better than the 14-24, and for underwater use the extra range is very useful. And I shoot at F8 underwater anyway.

I don't shoot night skies, so I don't know the 14-30 characteristics for that use. For underwater, it seems just fine, in both stills and video.

Still (view at 100% to see all those little shrimp):

21a70382c322467ea2737a010d0cae2d.jpg

Video:


--
Phoenix Arizona Craig
www.cjcphoto.net
"I miss the days when I was nostalgic."
 
Thank you, I will definitely check that one out
Again I tend to think probably depends a lot on how much you can get it for, not sure I'd recommend it at say £800+ but around £500ish I think its still a decent option which is up to modern standards with first rate build/handling.
 
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Hi Everyone,

The secondary use case will be astro, caves & other low light settings, long exposure photography and timelapse.
Just one word on "astro": a rectilinear lens gives equal coverage to a flat image plane. A fisheye gives equal coverage to spatial angles. For astro shots, that means you don't get the "corner spread" known as wide angle distortion that almost by necessity comes with a loss of corner sharpness and heavy vignetting with wide angles. Cameras may "compensate" for that, but this comes at the cost of noise, and when you are using long exposures, noise is almost always an issue.

The night sky view is not inherently flat. A fisheye might help you cover more in a manner more appropriate for stargazing. Now you say that it is a "secondary use case", so catering for it with another setup may not be a priority. Just something to keep in mind in the long run.

The advantage over a rectilinear projection is that if you capture multiple constellations, the individual constellations will not be significantly distorted even if the size relation between constellations in center and periphery differs. With a rectilinear projection, as you move outside, constellations will be distorted, with distances in radial direction hugely exaggerated over those perpendicular to it.

--
Dak
 
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I am very happy with the light compact 14-30 f4S and 18-35 G. Complementary zooms although obviously the Z-mount is not for a DSLR.

I also have the 15 f2.8AIP Zeiss Distagon, which is heavy but excellent quality. The manual focus is not an inconvenience.
 
I believe there's never one lens that can do it all. What you want doesn't exist, but the options you've been given come close.

If money's no object, you're still with at least two lenses: the 14-24 and a good adapted F mount such as the Sigma 14mm f1.8 for astro work.

Personally, I don't want to be bogged down while traveling, so the 14-30 as the main lens would work for me. It covers about 90%+ of your use cases, and if you still can't get good photos, then you can't blame the lens.

I shoot mainly with DSLRs, so I'm sticking with my F-mount lenses -- they may not the very best available, but they keep working well, even on my Z7ii, and in real-world use I'd challenge anyone to tell the difference. I've never had a complaint for my Tokina 16-28 or Rokinon 14 f2.4, either from me or paying clients. Now we could nit-pick 'til the cows come home, but if the factors of sharpness, focal length, aperture, price and ruggedness all match up, then you've got a winner. My lenses aren't just good enough, they're excellent; but what matters more is how you will use the lenses you choose.
 
I don't shoot astro, so take this recommendation from a landscape/cityscape shooter; I have the Viltrox 16 f1.8, and the Z 14-30 f4S. Both are very sharp, produce saturated colors.
 

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