I agree. Exquisite.Nothing beats the detail of actually getting closer thoughYeah that's an amazing shot.
I don't use it on a regular basis. This is primarily because most of my photography is done with social media in mind - I'm either sharing on Instagram, or I'm sharing low rez versions of photos with clients (inexplicably at their request) for them to share on their website, Facebook and Instagram.
Mountains, Deserts, Architecture, Interesting Geographic features, calm lake scenes, Old Farms, Nature (on calm days). The map below shows where I use it in the Western US.
I use the Hand Held High Res Modes more than the 80MP Tripod mode. I Shoot the EM1.3 which has dual card slots and Card 1 (UHS-II) I set to 50MP F+RAW and Card 2 is set to 25MP - Most of the time I'm fine with the 25MP mode - as it needs very little editing.
I'm not very familiar with Silkypix, but if there's a median blend mode for stacked/aligned shots, then (assuming enough frames in the stack) subject movement shouldn't be much of a problem. Indeed, it's a nice way of eliminating those unwanted tourists rudely interfering with your would-be masterpiece.
Handheld mode does a good job of eliminating camera movement blur/artifacting, but it's not a panacea for subject movement. Based on pretty limited comparisons, I think Lumix probably does a better job of eliminating subject motion artifacts and blur compared to Oly/OM. Consult with MEDISN if you want more info on this issue.
Nicely done. You can definitely notice the difference in detail.Here's one experiment of making a regular 20MP image from a stack of 19 x 20MP Sony compact images....
Stacked 20MP image on left, one of the individual frames on right, both at 100% view.
View at original size. The right image is one of the 19 images in the 800 ISO burst with 1" sensor and they all look like that, stacked in Silkypix to original MP size and looks like on the left. Also looks good when made into the 80MP version.
For those not looking at investing in a body that does it software is the way to go. I cannot remember which one I used, but it only worked with jpegs and I used it primarily for combining light trail shots over a highway.
I usually max my Auto ISO at 6400 with lowest speed set at 1/40s (I will go slower, but it has to then to be a conscious decision on my part of Speed vs Noise). Some people say ISO 6400 is nothing, but my experience dictates otherwise. While modern noise removal algorithms can work marvels, there is still a loss of fine details, which to me I find unacceptable above ISO 6400, especially in low light situations. Bright daylight will lead to more details being retained, but in low light the image deteriorates rather rapidly. I once by mistake shot landscapes almost an entire day at ISO 6400, and although it was easy to remove the noise, the loss of fine textural (grass, gravel, foliage) details was obvious. If your subject lacks texture and fine details, one can get away with higher ISO, but where fine details abound even ISO 400 is noticeably less detailed. Even at ISO 200, if I push the post processing beyond minor adjustments, I find noise removal becomes a necessity in my workflow.
I use it from time to time, but I admit the struggle for me is still processing the files in Lightroom. I've seen people recommend using the Olympus OM Workspace software and I've done that from time to time too.
As , your special forces say "Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome"In my experience, one empty can is way easier to balance a camera on than an empty beer bottle. With bottles, it takes at least three to build a suitable platform and by then I have passed out and missed the shot altogetherNow your post and technical details in that thread are excellent I point folk at it regularity , but soda can ?Surely a full can would be a better mini tripod , straight from the fridge it could even keep the camera nice and cool
Actually with urban shooting, it's my Starbucks cup that gets used for long exposure or HR. Have to toss the lid and flip it over but it has better dampening against vibration than aluminum!
I do have mini tripods - I just forget to pack them. :-| I'm doing good to get out the door with a battery half charged these days.
I have one of the PIXI mini tripods in my bag , but I can't remember the last time I actually used it.
Yup, Silkypix has a few modes of "composite" and removing pesky tourists is in there as "moving object removal" https://www.silkypix.com/en/how-to/...silkypix.com/en/how-to/article/function/1478/
I have only used mine more so for landscapes, but as I live in Australia there is plenty for me to explore and I do need to get out a bit more.
I almost bought an E-M1 III but lost at an eBay auction. Went well above what I wanted to pay for it, but then found a Pen-F which was significantly cheaper. I would love to try out the Hand Held High Res though, as the Pen needs a tripod for it to work.
I can imagine you are spoilt for choice judging by that map.
Too Many Places To List
Very nice shots. I generally shoot around ISO 6400 when doing night time street photography with the Pen F as I find that even with a smaller sense it does handle the noise quite well.I usually max my Auto ISO at 6400 with lowest speed set at 1/40s (I will go slower, but it has to then to be a conscious decision on my part of Speed vs Noise). Some people say ISO 6400 is nothing, but my experience dictates otherwise. While modern noise removal algorithms can work marvels, there is still a loss of fine details, which to me I find unacceptable above ISO 6400, especially in low light situations. Bright daylight will lead to more details being retained, but in low light the image deteriorates rather rapidly. I once by mistake shot landscapes almost an entire day at ISO 6400, and although it was easy to remove the noise, the loss of fine textural (grass, gravel, foliage) details was obvious. If your subject lacks texture and fine details, one can get away with higher ISO, but where fine details abound even ISO 400 is noticeably less detailed. Even at ISO 200, if I push the post processing beyond minor adjustments, I find noise removal becomes a necessity in my workflow.
Here are situations where I usually shoot HHHR ISO 6400
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Roger
Improvising can work well. I have the unfortunate habit of leaving tripods at home when going on a street shoot. Even when I set reminders I still forget.As , your special forces say "Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome"In my experience, one empty can is way easier to balance a camera on than an empty beer bottle. With bottles, it takes at least three to build a suitable platform and by then I have passed out and missed the shot altogetherNow your post and technical details in that thread are excellent I point folk at it regularity , but soda can ?
Actually with urban shooting, it's my Starbucks cup that gets used for long exposure or HR. Have to toss the lid and flip it over but it has better dampening against vibration than aluminum!
I do have mini tripods - I just forget to pack them. :-| I'm doing good to get out the door with a battery half charged these days.
That's fair. Most of my stuff is posted on social media which doesn't always show how good or bad an image is. I would love to print larger prints, which is one of the reasons I want to explore the high res mode a little more.
I will need to try to utilize it more. Most of my shooting is in RAW as that is the habit I have gotten into. I guess I should give the high res jpegs a go.
I will need to check out OM Workspace. I have seen it mentioned. I tend to do most of my post processing on my phone rather than PC, which doesn't give you as many options.
Worth a try
