Feeling frustrated with Fuji

By all means, have a look (I didn't include all of them, but are a few). Also, I noticed I had a typo on that last image. The one on the right was mislabeled but it's from the 16-80mm

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Did You use AF to set focus on those test shots?
Results are indeed weird (to say at least)

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My gallery: https://www.flickr.com/photos/maciej_k/
 
Surely the easiest way to test whether its an actual lens defect is to have it on a tripod, 2 second timer, base ISO, correct shutter speed, electronic shutter, use focus peaking with manual focus to dial the focus in then take the shot.

If at that point there are still issues, then the lens has an issue, if there arent then its happening somewhere else in the chain.
 
Did You use AF to set focus on those test shots?
Results are indeed weird (to say at least)
From owning the 16-80, I know that sometimes it can be weirdly blurry, without being a focus problem. Or being unlikely to be a focus problem: I got this general blurriness shooting landscapes at f/11 (before I knew it is not a good aperture to shoot at with this lens, better stick to (f/5.6 to f/6.4) whereas sometimes, same settings, I get crispy images.



XF 16-80 can be perfectly crisp, at least to my eyes.
XF 16-80 can be perfectly crisp, at least to my eyes.

I haven't figured out why this soft, out-of-focus look show up sometimes (well, like at least 50%), maybe some shutter shock, maybe OIS... but it is the reason I have stopped using the 16-80 as my go to lens.

Which is sad because it can also deliver very good results, and if though the 55-80 range is not usable for landscapes (and too short for wildlife), it is useful for "portrait" or "macro".
 
My suggestions for landscape JPEGs:
  1. Set Highlight Tone to -2
  2. Set Shadow tone to +1 if more contrast is desired.
  3. Set Dynamic Range to 200% or Auto.
  4. Set Film sim to Provia/Standard
  5. Avoid shooting beyond f8 to avoid diffraction softening
  6. Replace your XF 16-80 lens with a XF 16-50 f 2.8-4.8 or XF 16-55 f2.8 or XF 10-24.
I find I get sharp images and adequate depth of field at 16mm with f6.4 using the XF 16-50. You should be able to get much better JPEG images with your camera. I hope this helps.
I’m very curious if the changes between the lenses you mentioned can bring such a difference. maybe the new lenses are sharper, but I don’t see a normal user noticing that without zooming in….
 
„As it has been shown in Your comparison, even tiny tiny lens from iPhone outperforms hard Fuji 16-80/4“

That is physically impossible. As stated earlier, it is the AI that does all the work.

If your pictures look dull no matter what you do, sensor cleaning might help.
And yet, in real world use it is happening.. at least for 16mm in 16-80/4

Cleaning front element in 16-80/4 will not help this lens to bring on more crisp images in the corners.

I don't want to kick dead horse and elaborate more on 16-80/4 so I will only write this: in moment of introducing new kit lens XF 16-50/2.8-4.8 Fuji Imho should withdraw from production 16-80/4 ;)
You are kicking a dead horse. The only problem with the XF16-80 was unrealistic expectations (though it did have early shutter shock issues with the OIS..that got resolved in FW).

I've had 2 copies of the lens (ended up with a 2nd one that came with my XT5). BOTH outperformed (by a small margin) my 18-55 in the overlapping range..and my copy of the 18-55 was pretty good.

I did eventually replace the 16-80 with the new XF16-50 + samyang 75F1.8. The new XF16-50 is a better lens..but the 16-80 is not the dog that some people claim. It should be compared to the 18-55 or 18-135 not the red badge 16-55.
 
I did eventually replace the 16-80 with the new XF16-50 + samyang 75F1.8. The new XF16-50 is a better lens..but the 16-80 is not the dog that some people claim. It should be compared to the 18-55 or 18-135 not the red badge 16-55.
How do you like the Samyang 75mm f/1.8? Really considering getting that one, it is so light...
 
Did You use AF to set focus on those test shots?
Results are indeed weird (to say at least)
From owning the 16-80, I know that sometimes it can be weirdly blurry, without being a focus problem. Or being unlikely to be a focus problem: I got this general blurriness shooting landscapes at f/11 (before I knew it is not a good aperture to shoot at with this lens, better stick to (f/5.6 to f/6.4) whereas sometimes, same settings, I get crispy images.

XF 16-80 can be perfectly crisp, at least to my eyes.
XF 16-80 can be perfectly crisp, at least to my eyes.

I haven't figured out why this soft, out-of-focus look show up sometimes (well, like at least 50%), maybe some shutter shock, maybe OIS... but it is the reason I have stopped using the 16-80 as my go to lens.

Which is sad because it can also deliver very good results, and if though the 55-80 range is not usable for landscapes (and too short for wildlife), it is useful for "portrait" or "macro".
Thats an example of classic fuji AF issue, looks like its front focused, basically fuji AF just decided it was good enough. f10 doesnt help but its an af issue. Been there done that. People can hate on me all they want.
 
„As it has been shown in Your comparison, even tiny tiny lens from iPhone outperforms hard Fuji 16-80/4“

That is physically impossible. As stated earlier, it is the AI that does all the work.

If your pictures look dull no matter what you do, sensor cleaning might help.
And yet, in real world use it is happening.. at least for 16mm in 16-80/4

Cleaning front element in 16-80/4 will not help this lens to bring on more crisp images in the corners.

I don't want to kick dead horse and elaborate more on 16-80/4 so I will only write this: in moment of introducing new kit lens XF 16-50/2.8-4.8 Fuji Imho should withdraw from production 16-80/4 ;)
You are kicking a dead horse. The only problem with the XF16-80 was unrealistic expectations (though it did have early shutter shock issues with the OIS..that got resolved in FW).

I've had 2 copies of the lens (ended up with a 2nd one that came with my XT5). BOTH outperformed (by a small margin) my 18-55 in the overlapping range..and my copy of the 18-55 was pretty good.

I did eventually replace the 16-80 with the new XF16-50 + samyang 75F1.8. The new XF16-50 is a better lens..but the 16-80 is not the dog that some people claim. It should be compared to the 18-55 or 18-135 not the red badge 16-55.
You are absulutely right, there should not be any serious comparisons between XF 16-80/4 and XF 16-55/2.8 MkII, as a latter is pro grade lens, where 16-80/4 is kit lens :)

Both lenses are completely in different league's, even if they share similar focal ranges.

But comparing 16-80/4 to 16-50/2.8-4.8 or even to Tamron 17-70/2.8 is perfectly rational. That's what I think ;)

--
My gallery: https://www.flickr.com/photos/maciej_k/
 
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Did You use AF to set focus on those test shots?
Results are indeed weird (to say at least)
From owning the 16-80, I know that sometimes it can be weirdly blurry, without being a focus problem. Or being unlikely to be a focus problem: I got this general blurriness shooting landscapes at f/11 (before I knew it is not a good aperture to shoot at with this lens, better stick to (f/5.6 to f/6.4) whereas sometimes, same settings, I get crispy images.

XF 16-80 can be perfectly crisp, at least to my eyes.
XF 16-80 can be perfectly crisp, at least to my eyes.

I haven't figured out why this soft, out-of-focus look show up sometimes (well, like at least 50%), maybe some shutter shock, maybe OIS... but it is the reason I have stopped using the 16-80 as my go to lens.

Which is sad because it can also deliver very good results, and if though the 55-80 range is not usable for landscapes (and too short for wildlife), it is useful for "portrait" or "macro".
Thats an example of classic fuji AF issue, looks like its front focused, basically fuji AF just decided it was good enough. f10 doesnt help but its an af issue. Been there done that. People can hate on me all they want.
This is my conclusion also when I've evaluated this image (very nice shot, BTW 👌)

Thats why why I've asked OP if he was using/relaying on AF with his brick wall test, or he do it in right way - by eliminating Fuji AF errors and set focus manually :)

--
My gallery: https://www.flickr.com/photos/maciej_k/
 
I did eventually replace the 16-80 with the new XF16-50 + samyang 75F1.8. The new XF16-50 is a better lens..but the 16-80 is not the dog that some people claim. It should be compared to the 18-55 or 18-135 not the red badge 16-55.
How do you like the Samyang 75mm f/1.8? Really considering getting that one, it is so light...
I really like it. I use it for ski photography - where i need the fast shutter speed. I backcountry ski and bring an XT50 + the samyang - so the size & weight is important. The AF is pretty fast - i think the focusing is faster/a little better than the 16-80 that it replaced. Certainly more keepers. Also have the XF90F2 which is even better, but much bigger and heavier.

Also carry a canon G1XIII while skiing for wide angle and normal.
 
It looks like the 16-55mm photo was misfocused.
 
You are kicking a dead horse. The only problem with the XF16-80 was unrealistic expectations (though it did have early shutter shock issues with the OIS..that got resolved in FW).

I've had 2 copies of the lens (ended up with a 2nd one that came with my XT5). BOTH outperformed (by a small margin) my 18-55 in the overlapping range..and my copy of the 18-55 was pretty good.
The X16-80 f4 is a fine lens. My wife used it for a couple years (came in a kit on her XH2) and it produce some wonderful images. I think the problem was the expectations were too high - after all it is not a "Red Badge" zoom and it was not the replacement for the 16-55, that came later.

I bought her the 16-55 f2.8 II (Red Badge) for her birthday, and that has replaced the 16-80 for her standard use zoom, and it should. But if she needs the extra reach she has no issues reaching for the 16-80.

Edward Weston wrote to Ansel Adams about sharpness of a certain lens. Adams wrote back saying, "Edward, the problem is not the lens, the problem is the guy behind the camera worrying about the lens."
 
You are kicking a dead horse. The only problem with the XF16-80 was unrealistic expectations (though it did have early shutter shock issues with the OIS..that got resolved in FW).

I've had 2 copies of the lens (ended up with a 2nd one that came with my XT5). BOTH outperformed (by a small margin) my 18-55 in the overlapping range..and my copy of the 18-55 was pretty good.
The X16-80 f4 is a fine lens. My wife used it for a couple years (came in a kit on her XH2) and it produce some wonderful images. I think the problem was the expectations were too high - after all it is not a "Red Badge" zoom and it was not the replacement for the 16-55, that came later.

I bought her the 16-55 f2.8 II (Red Badge) for her birthday, and that has replaced the 16-80 for her standard use zoom, and it should. But if she needs the extra reach she has no issues reaching for the 16-80.
Basically same for me.
Edward Weston wrote to Ansel Adams about sharpness of a certain lens. Adams wrote back saying, "Edward, the problem is not the lens, the problem is the guy behind the camera worrying about the lens."
Precisely.
 
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If I am not mistaken, even the RAW files of (some) real cameras already include some software correction that you cannot deactivate. This would be the same, if not more so, for phone RAW files.

Another aspect to consider: I am pretty sure that all phone files are interpolated. It would be interesting to know the exact figures, but I guess phone lenses are able to resolve around 1-2MP. The physical pixel count on a phone sensor is around the same I guess.
 
Given that you clearly have the patience to do lens tests, my advice would be to take some raw photos under different lighting conditions, a variety of colors, different exposures etc, and play around with the files in X Raw Studio. The software is a bit clunky, but it is the best way to see on a big screen how the JPEG will look with different film simulations applied, the effects of saturation, clarity, contrast, noise reduction and so on.
 
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If I am not mistaken, even the RAW files of (some) real cameras already include some software correction that you cannot deactivate. This would be the same, if not more so, for phone RAW files.
Yes, this is something to consider. I didn't see obvious signs of baked-in noise reduction in my phone RAW files though. I have with some dedicated cameras (like the Sony A7III)
Another aspect to consider: I am pretty sure that all phone files are interpolated. It would be interesting to know the exact figures, but I guess phone lenses are able to resolve around 1-2MP. The physical pixel count on a phone sensor is around the same I guess.
Um... that's not how that works. Phone sensors have physically the number of pixels that the manufacturer communicates. My phone has 50MP, it has 50 million physical pixels. However, when shooting JPEG, it does a pixel binning of 2x2 resulting in 12.5MP images. I only get the full 50MP when shooting RAW, but then as I mentioned the noise is generally too high.

What's your basis for your 1-2MP figure exactly? Because that's wrong on so many levels. Sensor side, but lens side as well.
 
Educated guess. I am pretty sure that for 50MP on a phone sensor, you would need to place 10-20 pixels on one atom of whatever elements a sensor is made of.

If anybody can provide facts to prove me wrong, I’ll happily accept.
 
Smartphone camera sensor pixels typically range from 0.8 um to 1.8 um in size.
 
Educated guess. I am pretty sure that for 50MP on a phone sensor, you would need to place 10-20 pixels on one atom of whatever elements a sensor is made of.
I would have said uneducated guess if you think atoms are that big. The pixel pitch of an average smartphone sensor is around 1µm (that's the pixel pitch of the 50MP sensor in the Samsung A56 for example). An atom of silicon (what camera sensors are made of) is about 0.2 nano meters wide. In other words, a single pixel of a 50MP smartphone camera sensor would be about 5000 atoms wide.

Of course this is extremely simplified as the photodiode of a sensor is smaller than the pixel size (due to wiring, micro lenses etc, but you get the idea)
If anybody can provide facts to prove me wrong, I’ll happily accept.
Just go read the datasheet of any smartphone sensor, there are your facts.
 
My suggestion for days you do not want to carry a lot of gear: get the Halide app and shoot RAW with your iPhone.

For days that you do carry your gear: use good lenses, shoot RAW and expose very carefully.

iPhone photos still do not compare to technically excellent Fuji fotos but they do compare to „average“ photos. The computational photography in your phone offers an unbeatable convenience, especially for tricky lighting situations. That is, those situations that beginners struggle to master on a Fuji. That takes practices and post processing (e.g. Capture One). Don’t shy away from exposing at -2, -3 stops.

I would always prefer my phone over shooting only JPEG on my X-T5.
 

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