My scanning rig. (And my first post on film forum!)

Timo Vahala

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D7200 with Micro-Nikkor 55mm F/3.5 Auto, a light table and a non-reflective glass plate.





I created an inverting picture control for scanning, it's nice to see what i'm getting! Shooting raw-files with the lens at F/8.





The end product. Fomapan 200 developed with Monobath df96. Shot with Nikon FE and Nikkor AI-S 50mm F/1.4. Re-sized to 4500x3000 pixels. That seems to be maximum resolution with my setup.
 

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Can you tell me how you did the inverted picture control? I have a d850 and would love to see what I’m scanning as well. Thank you
 
1. In NX Studio, choose 'Monochrome'-Picture Control.

bbce09e7a0414e9e98c180df84693236.jpg



2. Open 'Levels & Curves' and drag end points of the curve to marked locations.

017cd67965fb4465a8fd71ec77537051.jpg



3. Open the 'File'-drop menu and choose 'Export Custom Picture Control'.

ebb9f00e750147e9a1dbc7c70e855ceb.jpg



4. Name and description for the picture control.

52ed7aa328cf49ce9e3fc615288269f3.jpg



5. Export to your memory card, and from there install to the camera.

20b9093d488a46b5a82d3194bc45e855.jpg
 
Nice, do you feel the distance between the light table and the film is enough in your case. I run a similar setup, and I needed to create more distance. I could see dust and texture from the light surface.
 
Nice, do you feel the distance between the light table and the film is enough in your case. I run a similar setup, and I needed to create more distance. I could see dust and texture from the light surface.
The distance is perfect! I can use whole D7200 sensor area. I even made marks to the tripod to make setting up the system easier. No problems with dust or light table.

Timo
 
Here is mine, I have also made a reverse action in DxO PhotoLAB. I'm mostly scanning 120 film.

The pole is just a single table leg attached up side down🧠

c22e827395e54b859b0d6cd944e9ea9a.jpg



--
 
Nice! I like to keep things simple, if it's easy to work with and yields good results, i'm sold.

Timo
 
Do you not get light bleed from the edges ?
Possibly yes, but i set the black and white points in post, and contrast seems to be fine, if that is what you meant?

Now that i think of it, it would be easy to make a mask onto the glass plate with a black tape, hmm...🤔

Timo
 
Do you not get light bleed from the edges ?
Possibly yes, but i set the black and white points in post, and contrast seems to be fine, if that is what you meant?

Now that i think of it, it would be easy to make a mask onto the glass plate with a black tape, hmm...🤔

Timo
If you look around charity shops (or eBay) you can pick up an old slide / negative copier cheaply ( like this https://www.pentaxforums.com/accessoryreviews/jessop-zoom-slide-duplicator.html ) which come with frames to hold 135 and 110 negs flat and you might not need to use the glass.
 
Do you not get light bleed from the edges ?
Possibly yes, but i set the black and white points in post, and contrast seems to be fine, if that is what you meant?

Now that i think of it, it would be easy to make a mask onto the glass plate with a black tape, hmm...🤔

Timo
If you look around charity shops (or eBay) you can pick up an old slide / negative copier cheaply ( like this https://www.pentaxforums.com/accessoryreviews/jessop-zoom-slide-duplicator.html ) which come with frames to hold 135 and 110 negs flat and you might not need to use the glass.
I've know of those. My method is more comfortable (at least for me), the quality of scans is high and i've got everything needed in the house. I'll stick to my guns!🥳

Timo
 
Nice, do you feel the distance between the light table and the film is enough in your case. I run a similar setup, and I needed to create more distance. I could see dust and texture from the light surface.
The distance is perfect! I can use whole D7200 sensor area. I even made marks to the tripod to make setting up the system easier. No problems with dust or light table.

Timo
I think Rumi was talking about the distance from the light table to the back of the negative. I prefer a glassless arrangement using a negative carrier, to avoid having imperfections on the light table, like dust or scratches, be in focus.

BTW- the old 50mm Micro-Nikkors are plenty sharp at wider apertures, so I don't think you need to hold to f/8.

But- all that being said, I think it's working for you as is- I don't see any reflections, Newton Rings, or other problems.
 
Nice, do you feel the distance between the light table and the film is enough in your case. I run a similar setup, and I needed to create more distance. I could see dust and texture from the light surface.
The distance is perfect! I can use whole D7200 sensor area. I even made marks to the tripod to make setting up the system easier. No problems with dust or light table.

Timo
I think Rumi was talking about the distance from the light table to the back of the negative. I prefer a glassless arrangement using a negative carrier, to avoid having imperfections on the light table, like dust or scratches, be in focus.

BTW- the old 50mm Micro-Nikkors are plenty sharp at wider apertures, so I don't think you need to hold to f/8.

But- all that being said, I think it's working for you as is- I don't see any reflections, Newton Rings, or other problems.
I read his reply again, and you are right! My brain was stuck, somehow. Anyway, like you said, no issues - no need to fix anything.
 


D7200 with Micro-Nikkor 55mm F/3.5 Auto, a light table and a non-reflective glass plate.



I created an inverting picture control for scanning, it's nice to see what i'm getting! Shooting raw-files with the lens at F/8.



The end product. Fomapan 200 developed with Monobath df96. Shot with Nikon FE and Nikkor AI-S 50mm F/1.4. Re-sized to 4500x3000 pixels. That seems to be maximum resolution with my setup.
Looks good - and you are obviously producing good results. Some suggestions though..

Lights off elsewhere in the room (you may well be doing this already) and matt side of negative towards the camera (to reduce extra ious reflections and because the image is on that side of the acetate.

Raise the negative strip on blocks so that the light source is nowhere near the plane of focus - less chance of resolving a pixel (or dirt) in the light source.

Use a weight on top of the blocks to hold the strip flat, but try to avoid glass over the frame you are copying (any mark on the glass will be near the focus plane, plus you get reflections and may get Newton's rings).

To ensure you are square to the negative, place a mirror where the negative would go and position the camera so that the centre of the lens is centre of the frame - when it is you are square.

...but as I say, your results look good without that.

--
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D7200 with Micro-Nikkor 55mm F/3.5 Auto, a light table and a non-reflective glass plate.



I created an inverting picture control for scanning, it's nice to see what i'm getting! Shooting raw-files with the lens at F/8.



The end product. Fomapan 200 developed with Monobath df96. Shot with Nikon FE and Nikkor AI-S 50mm F/1.4. Re-sized to 4500x3000 pixels. That seems to be maximum resolution with my setup.
Looks good - and you are obviously producing good results. Some suggestions though..

Lights off elsewhere in the room (you may well be doing this already) and matt side of negative towards the camera (to reduce extra ious reflections and because the image is on that side of the acetate.

Raise the negative strip on blocks so that the light source is nowhere near the plane of focus - less chance of resolving a pixel (or dirt) in the light source.

Use a weight on top of the blocks to hold the strip flat, but try to avoid glass over the frame you are copying (any mark on the glass will be near the focus plane, plus you get reflections and may get Newton's rings).

To ensure you are square to the negative, place a mirror where the negative would go and position the camera so that the centre of the lens is centre of the frame - when it is you are square.

...but as I say, your results look good without that.
It's all good! I use non-reflective glass plate i took from a photoframe, and my light table has a very nice surface, i've tried to focus on it, but even magnified there's no details in pictures to be seen.
 
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Can you tell me how you did the inverted picture control? I have a d850 and would love to see what I’m scanning as well. Thank you
The D850 has a built-in negative mask inversion feature when used with the ES-2 film digitizing adapter and one of the supported macro lenses. That would seem like a much more streamlined and efficient solution.

 
Can you tell me how you did the inverted picture control? I have a d850 and would love to see what I’m scanning as well. Thank you
The D850 has a built-in negative mask inversion feature when used with the ES-2 film digitizing adapter and one of the supported macro lenses. That would seem like a much more streamlined and efficient solution.

https://www.nikonimgsupport.com/eu/BV_article?articleNo=000050780&configured=1&lang=en_GB
It is a very efficient streamlined solution and avoids the shakiness of the setup by the op. With the D850 you can look at positives in LV and better judge the negative. The D850 automatically applies levels and thus renders underexposed BW negatives very well. The auto levels adjustment bring up the unevenness of illumination for negatives with very little contrast.
 
That's great.

I normally shoot with a holder, but I had some old 120 film my dad shot in WWii. Unfortunately, the pressed glass process ended up scratching the emulsion. Luckily, I got the shots before that happens, but no second chance.
 

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