Do you like manual legacy lenses on your m43 : share such some of your m43 images

Do you like manual legacy lenses on your m43 ?

Short answer is NO

I've tried my legacy OM Zuiko film lenses on my E-M1III but didn't enjoy the 2x crop.

I prefer to use them with a FF camera

jj
I'm looking at a £18 m42 240/4.5 Enna Munchen only 14cm long small bodied for butterflies small birds. I never did butterflies small birds on my m43s as far as I can recall.

Picked up a 45-200 panny last week, still intrigued by the Enna mulling it over. 2x crop equivalent 480mm will help, just have to practice to keep it steady hand held should be alright in bright light.
The 2x crop may be helpful with respect to birds and bugs but for landscapes I’d want lenses as wide as 14mm (actual) to get me to the 28mm I liked to shoot with 35mm film, and those lenses are rare and expensive now.
jj
If you like ultra wide or even standard wide there's no way around that.

Although there's plenty landscapes done at 35mm, even 50mm for which 18mm Sigma m42, Sigma Superwide II 24mm both I had would do fine.

There was a Tamron adaptall 17/3.5 and Tokina 17/3.5 though I never had these. I will look into these see if there is a bargain.

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Photography after all is interplay of light alongside perspective.
 
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The Meike 7.5 fisheye. Not something I use regularly, but it can be full to take it out once in a while. And focusing doesn't seem to be an issue at this focal length.
Fish eyes are like comedy lenses 🤣 I feel I should photograph with one at least once in my photographic life.

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Photography after all is interplay of light alongside perspective.
 
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Yes. I had a lot of fun with adapted lens onM43 before I could justify buying better M43 gear.

Always wish I had been able to focus better,
Same

Was purchasing a lot of digital cameras dslrs bridges compacts 2009-2012 as their price had plummeted, memory cards became cheap. Which meant I didn't have money for native m43 lenses so I just picked up cheap legacy glass.

I'd never photographed with legacy glass before 2009 as I'd just got into Photography 2008. Was so much fun most pleasureable photography times for me.

Before 2008 I photographed family events with p&s compacts but never got into Photography.

My aim this time around is to manually focus for nature bees birds butterflies little animals on my E-Pl7
From 2012. An old Olympus OM35 f3.5

As time went on, I acquires more M43 lenses. Used the legacy lenses less and less.
I have just 3 native m43 lenses wouldn't mind adding 7-14. The 75/1.8 I wouldn't mind either although I wouldn't find too many opportunities to photograph with it. Pana Leica 42.5/1.2 also wouldn't mind but I'd prefer to get a f/1.2 in LTM or another mount then I can place it on various cameras.

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Photography after all is interplay of light alongside perspective.
 
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Same here. They are cheap and fun if a bit unpredictable. I went super low tech, Minolta md lenses off craigslist, with a "dumb" adapter (no auto focus). Telephoto primes only so far
Super low tech 😎 liking it. Same went with "dumb" adapter. First on my SD9 m42, thereafter various on my E-P1 couldn't believe how easy it was on the Oly just a button to digitally zoom/crop in to check focusing.
 
Outstanding.

Macro manual photography I find aspirational.

🍻

First time around I didn't do any closeup/ macro type photos any butterflies bees critters on my m43s. This time around I will give it a go although I know I won't get anywhere near as you.
Stuff I've used and would consider worthwhile -

Olympus 200 F4 E.Zuiko - only really used it twice, but perfectly fine performance, sharper than the native 40-150 4/5.6 at 150 if the 200's also at 5.6. I think with E-shutter and pro capture this would actually be pretty great, tempted to take it out again with the E-M1ii.


Vivitar 135mm f2.8 close focusing (komine serial)



Really nice lens actually, very simple optically, (check the diagram here !) fast, sharp stopped down even a little. I have a vivitar combination variable extension tube and 2x teleconverter to use with it where the image quality is still acceptable stopped down, and gives you ~270mm and very slightly more than 1:1. Unfortunately it's hard to diffuse flash for something so long and it's not great to use in natural light.
🍻

The Vivitar Komine serial 28xxxxx said Close Focusing on the lens ? Or Macro Focusing on the lens? Or didn't say either on the lens?
I owned both the Tokina A-TX 90mm 2.5 and the earlier Vivitar version of the same lens, with their macro adapters. Sold the Tokina version even though it was technically better, just wasn't using either of them much and could get more for it on ebay.

the Vivitar -



https://flic.kr/p/2knS3km

The Tokina -

https://flic.kr/p/DJ4kMM

https://flic.kr/p/RcDsf3

https://flic.kr/p/YcqmZB

https://flic.kr/p/A32TzZ

If I was doing it over again I'd skip getting the 1:1 adapters for them, there's simply not enough improvement in image quality to justify having to change lenses if you suddenly need less than 1:2 magnification. The Raynox 150/250 diopters were much more convenient to use with it just by clipping them on the front as needed and could be stacked together if you wanted to get even closer still.

It looks like the 90 2.5 macros have come down in price quite a lot since I first bought them, probably from there being no shortage of AF 90s and now native ones for E and m43 mounts in the same length. Hugely recommend them if anyone's looking for 90mm and doesn't want to pay what the OM 90mm costs.
I had Tammy 90/2.5 sp macro around 2011 didn't use it for macro. This time around I will give a 90/2.5 macro + magnifying clip on glass a go for closeup/ macro of bees butterflies critters.

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Photography after all is interplay of light alongside perspective.
 
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Raw. I hardly ever JPEG, except for export. :-)
👍
I have several OM lenses that I hardly ever use. And then, I only use a 50mm f1.4, 135mm f3.5, and 300mm f4.5. Like? IDK but a FF effective f1.4 lens has its uses, as do the "free" 270mm f3.5 & 600mm f4.5.
OM Zuiko 50/1.4 silver nose I had dreamy and the non silver nose for deep contrast vibrant colours can't recall serial number it was meant to be the sharpest Zuiko 50/1.4 I'd get this again if I was to get another Zuiko 50/1.4.

135 equivalent 270mm I found excellent for flower foliage had a few before, picked up another couple last week a Steinheil and a Zeiss mc.

300mm equivalent 600mm could be a PITA to keep steady handheld on my E-Pl7.

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Photography after all is interplay of light alongside perspective.
 
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With current discussion here on dpr m43 forum regarding retro legacy look of to be announced OM System camera I wondered whether we have enjoyed adapted manual legacy lenses on our m43.

Whether you would like to share some of your such m43 photographs.

[ o ]

Crop factor makes it not so straightforward to use wide legacy glass on our m43.
Crop factor is one of the reasons I find a full frame mirrorless camera appealing. Now there's the retro Nikon Zf full frame camera and possibly a Canon retro offering on the way, a retro camera setup with vintage 35mm lenses can be had without the annoyance of crop factor. I have used legacy lenses on m4/3 in the past but I tend to shoot at wider angles so it's less appealing to me. A vintage 35mm focal length adapted lens on full frame still has a focal length of 35mm.
When I had my 18mm Sigma m42 I couldn't take those wide images on my E-P1.
Still was a revelation was the most pleasureable digital photography times I had adapting manual lenses on my E-P1 2011 2012.

I didn't have any exotic lenses. Just standard £10 - £20 range, just 4 in £50 - £100.
Last week I've purchased 5 legacy lenses to place on my current E-Pl7 : 28, 50 x2, 135 x2. £10 - £40. Just waiting for adapters to arrive.

Here are a few from E-P1 2011 2012, G1 2018, Gf3 2017 2018.

🍻

E-P1 Zuiko 75-150/4
E-P1 Zuiko 75-150/4

E-P1 Zuiko 50/1.8
E-P1 Zuiko 50/1.8

E-P1 Vivitar Komine 28/2.8
E-P1 Vivitar Komine 28/2.8

G1 Corfield Lumax 135/2.8
G1 Corfield Lumax 135/2.8

E-P1 Zuiko 50/1.4
E-P1 Zuiko 50/1.4


Gf3 Jupiter 50/2

Gf3 Corfield Lumax 135/2.8
Gf3 Corfield Lumax 135/2.8

Jpegs. I hardly ever raw.

🍻

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Photography after all is interplay of light alongside perspective.
 
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Back in the early days of this format, before there were a lot of options in native lenses, I bought (and sold) a lot of the recommended/popular vintage/MF lenses.

A few Konica Hexanons, a Pentax or two, A couple of Nikons, and Yashicas...

Out of all of them, the only two I still have are a Micro-Nikkor 55mm f3.5 pre-AI macro lens, and a Yashica ML 50mm f1.7. Both of them are still excellent lenses, and I do use both on rare occasions.
Yashica Yashinons are brilliant lenses. DS DX ML. There is a DX 45/1.4 in Leica bayonet mount would look neat with thin adapter on a small bodied m43.
However, once the native M43 lens assortment grew, I moved to only native lenses. AF is a big thing for me, but even if it wasn't, the lenses themselves are usually (but not always) superior in sharpness, flare resistance, usable focal lengths (for instance, wide angle lenses in M43 are not really available as vintage focal lengths used on SLR bodies), and other convenience features.

So, at this point, I use only native lenses, unless I am doing some experimentation for the heck of it, with the vintage lenses.

-J
Although I only have 2kit af m43 lenses and 45/1.8 if I was out event photographing carnivals, festivals I'd only take native m43 AF lenses like 75/1.8 photographed with it 2017 wasn't mine.

A couple below from (many) years past with the lenses I mentioned above:

First one with the Micro-Nikkor 55mm f3.5

The next two were with the Yashica ML 50mm f1.7.

I really should do pet photography.

Yashica 1.7 renders in a way I like I have a couple in my ebay watch list.

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Photography after all is interplay of light alongside perspective.
 
primarily for wildlife and nature stuff.

I love the feel of the mechanical focus rings, focus by wire doesn't come close. Focus peaking and magnification make it pretty easy these days, well sorta ;-) . I'm having a great time.

These all shot with the EM1mkii
Same. Love the handling. Also love the feeling that I have more say in the photographs. Having more say brings me pleasure satisfaction.

I really don't know why I didn't photograph wildlife with my manual lenses on my m43s, this time around I intend to.
Regards Ian Colley
🍻

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Photography after all is interplay of light alongside perspective.
 
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Crop factor is one of the reasons I find a full frame mirrorless camera appealing. Now there's the retro Nikon Zf full frame camera and possibly a Canon retro offering on the way, a retro camera setup with vintage 35mm lenses can be had without the annoyance of crop factor. I have used legacy lenses on m4/3 in the past but I tend to shoot at wider angles so it's less appealing to me. A vintage 35mm focal length adapted lens on full frame still has a focal length of 35mm.
Zf Zfc are the most attractive retro style for me even more than X100, X-T1 I had. Handled Zf Zfc in store. With legacy glass would look gorgeous.

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Photography after all is interplay of light alongside perspective.
 
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Using legacy MF lens can be affordable fun. I am far to casual with the lenses I use to remember which lens took which image. But I do have had good success with them - I just don't remember which made which.
Although I've been through approx 100 digital cameras I've only had maybe 20 manual lenses of which I photographed with maybe only 10. Makes it easier for me to remember I wrote them down in the folders. When I look at these photographs I member the place the moment what I was doing to photograph them.
But sometimes a technically bad image has captured the mood, feeling, and often accidental, ethos of what makes a memorable image. Sometimes we lose track of what photography is all about in the course of our endless pursuit of pixel by pixel perfection of replication.
Feelings emotions I had when photographing is what I look for in most of my photography.

Although when I go out this time around with my m43 to photograph birds 🐦 wildlife which I didn't before with my m43s, I will look for clear detailed images as best I can with manual lenses.
But there are a whole series of Chinese made MF lenses made for the aps-c image circle but also sold in M4/3 mount .... including such exotic build as f0.95. I had always wanted a lens this fast but was seriously challenged by the asking prices until I found these new made-for-purpose beauties at more reasonable cost.
Yeaaah. Never had funds for a Leica 0.95 even if I did I'd be worried to carry it. I don't know how some Leica dpr forum members do it.

I'm going to pick up a Chinese 0.95.

I did laugh when I first saw picture of humongous Nikon Z 58/.095 I 🤣 when I saw it just now.
Canon FD 80-200/4.0 L. Try and find one of these in good condition at bargain based prices. Even with the crop factor such lenses are well worth looking at and they are not always so sought after that they become an expensive purchase in their own right.
Shall look for FD 80-200/4.0L for my 5dmkii picked up fortnight earlier. I like lenses that can do double duty as it were on m43 and another camera/s. Even though I have a usm 50/1.4 for my 5dmkii I going to put manual lenses on it or at least use af lens with aperture ring focus ring to shoot manually.

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Photography after all is interplay of light alongside perspective.
 
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There are other reasons to make photographs - for instance the slower deliberate testing of our personal skill to make the best image we can with the tools at our disposal - the camera body - old or new - and the lens of perhaps indifferent heritage. The images caught might not be the greatest possible but testing our growing photographic skills can be a reward in itself even though what we caught might not be at plaudits level there is some personal satisfaction that we are trying to improve our personal skills and not just finding the subject matter and leaving the rest to our camera gear.

But why not try a bog-basic legacy MF lenses from time to time and practice settings and skills to see if we can make that silk purse image out of that sow's ear. Impossible really, but trying to get the best out of what you are using whatever it is can be an interesting objective in its own right.
When I got into photography 2008 I started with p&s compacts Ricoh R3 and Ricoh Gx8 took some of my favourite photographs with Gx8.

Adapting lenses in 2009 2010 when I got my Sigma SD9. I couldn't belive so easily doable just a m42 adapter. Pleasure satisfaction I had felt like I was actually doing something to make a photograph happen. SD9 gave me the most satisfaction with manual m42 lenses as it was tricky. E-P1 the most pleasure with various mounts manual lenses as it was so straightforward.
In reality perhaps all we might need is the right kit, "A" mode and a shutter button.
With my 1Ds D1h E1 with AF lenses I felt I was hardly doing anything just aim press shutter. The computer inside was making it happen. I was relegated to a bystander. I didn't feel like giving up another creative element to a machine as it were. I wanted at least some tactile input.

If I photographed fast moving wildlife I'd been glad for the computer to do nearly everything. Though in film days there were stunning fast moving wildlife photographs with manual focus lenses.
Not that I forsake great oem AF gear as I like the very best images that I can make just as much as the next person. I am just as human as photographer in that regard as the next auto-everything user.
Nowadays in London I appreciate the speedyness of AF m43 small lenses. Still I want to shoot in M as much as possible. One real neat feature of E-Pl7 easy to manually alter Kelvin White Balance just two button presses to access it.

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Photography after all is interplay of light alongside perspective.
 
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I have newer MFT cameras, but using old camera and lenses is kind of fun for me.

Some samples with a Zuiko 35mm/f2.8 film lens on an Olympus E-PL1



Note the sharpness of the Wiskers.
Note the sharpness of the Wiskers.



71a0a512b7204942af93150d99762ba5.jpg



ff6faedb7cb3429782dc14a299fa0036.jpg



956aa18f7e8849bd8fae6856c2a32f0c.jpg

Thank for viewing.
 
Outstanding.

Macro manual photography I find aspirational.

🍻

First time around I didn't do any closeup/ macro type photos any butterflies bees critters on my m43s. This time around I will give it a go although I know I won't get anywhere near as you.
It's all just doing it a real lot and getting lucky to be in the right place at the right time. I actually enjoy the walking around and planting stuff much more these days and I got to a point where I stopped taking photos at all of stuff just because I would start thinking about how many unprocessed photos of the same exact thing I already had waiting at home. So basically it's a mix of stuff that is novel or interesting along with stuff that is easy to process that actually gets through the whole pipeline of shooting it to publishing it now.
Vivitar 135mm f2.8 close focusing (komine serial)



Really nice lens actually, very simple optically, (check the diagram here !) fast, sharp stopped down even a little. I have a vivitar combination variable extension tube and 2x teleconverter to use with it where the image quality is still acceptable stopped down, and gives you ~270mm and very slightly more than 1:1. Unfortunately it's hard to diffuse flash for something so long and it's not great to use in natural light.
🍻

The Vivitar Komine serial 28xxxxx said Close Focusing on the lens ? Or Macro Focusing on the lens? Or didn't say either on the lens?
There are multiple Vivitar 135mm 2.8 lenses and the one marked Close Focusing goes to 1:2. The ones with a serial indicating they're made by Komine under license are the ones people rate as the "proper" one. There are a few other 70s-80s lenses in the 90-105mm macro zone with a similar thing going on, same lens name, different factory making them, apparently different performances up close.

The macro focusing teleconverter I messed with while using it a bit is a separate item - it's a fairly standard 2xTC but with a focusing helicoid on it, so it can both teleconvert and increase magnification. The extension is more useful with a shorter lens than 135mm (better off using a diopter on something that long, if you want to increase magnification).
I had Tammy 90/2.5 sp macro around 2011 didn't use it for macro. This time around I will give a 90/2.5 macro + magnifying clip on glass a go for closeup/ macro of bees butterflies critters.
If you're just starting out I'd suggest just leaving the lens as-is without a diopter and just practice getting into position and not freaking the bees out, and just practice getting any shot at all. Don't stress too much about chasing them around, try and predict somewhere they're going to go. They aren't the easiest thing to shoot (fast, often move the flower they're on out of focus as they land, will often change facing so you shoot their bum instead, etc) so don't get discouraged if you're not instantly grabbing keepers. If you're using a manual focus lens in daylight I'd suggest just cranking the frames per second as high as it will go and keep shooting if you're even vaguely looking at a bee in the viewfinder.

--
https://www.flickr.com/photos/piggsyface/
 
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Panasonic GX1, Canon FD 70-210mm F4 lens + very basic adaptor (Ebay, £10), Bakewell market, Derbyshire UK 2024.
Panasonic GX1, Canon FD 70-210mm F4 lens + very basic adaptor (Ebay, £10), Bakewell market, Derbyshire UK 2024.

I've used some old Canon FD lenses with a Panasonic GX1 for several years. Not often, but they're nice to have in the car boot. One great advantage is that you're not afraid to take them anywhere, whatever the weather. They have little or no resale value and with a bit of care (the focussing is never easy!) you can occasionally get some good results.

Panasonic GX1 with Canon FD 35-105mm f3.5 lens and adaptor (as above). Christmas run, Chester, UK. December 2013. More at www.flickr.com/photos/21498924@N04/
Panasonic GX1 with Canon FD 35-105mm f3.5 lens and adaptor (as above). Christmas run, Chester, UK. December 2013. More at www.flickr.com/photos/21498924@N04/
 
anything but the very common and cheap 50mm1.8 (100mmf3.6) i dont see how they are usefull on m43 format.

On the other hand the legacy lenses have never worked better than on any of the modern FF mirrorless bodies (IBIS, EVF, focus helpers). Exceptional results are possible.

some examples

- Very sharp cheap 35mmf2.8 lenses make no sense on m43 (70mmf5.6 what is this..)

- very sharp and cheap 135mmf3.5 lens, makes no sense of m43...(270mmf7, what is this..)

anything wider than 50mm makes no sense, because the lenses just dont perform well enough. And anything longer neither...

Using speedboosters might open up some more possibilities, but the good ones are very expensive, never without downsides, and with used FF bodies below $500, idk...

its not much different for APSC.
 
I have newer MFT cameras, but using old camera and lenses is kind of fun for me.

Some samples with a Zuiko 35mm/f2.8 film lens on an Olympus E-PL1

Note the sharpness of the Wiskers.
Note the sharpness of the Wiskers.

Thank for viewing.
I recall reading E-PL1 had a thinner AA filter. I had E-PL1 a few weeks.

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Photography after all is interplay of light alongside perspective.
 
I've used some old Canon FD lenses with a Panasonic GX1 for several years. Not often, but they're nice to have in the car boot. One great advantage is that you're not afraid to take them anywhere, whatever the weather.
Most of these 100mm 135mm 200mm legacy glass are like truncheons. Painful if hit by them. I like gear photography and other that I don't need to be precious with whilst still looking after them.

When I first held my E-P1 made me smile its chunky solidness I felt yep I don't need to be precious with you. I just stuck a glass screen protector on its LCD.

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Photography after all is interplay of light alongside perspective.
 
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Outstanding.

Macro manual photography I find aspirational.

🍻

First time around I didn't do any closeup/ macro type photos any butterflies bees critters on my m43s. This time around I will give it a go although I know I won't get anywhere near as you.
It's all just doing it a real lot and getting lucky to be in the right place at the right time. I actually enjoy the walking around and planting stuff much more these days and I got to a point where I stopped taking photos at all of stuff just because I would start thinking about how many unprocessed photos of the same exact thing I already had waiting at home. So basically it's a mix of stuff that is novel or interesting along with stuff that is easy to process that actually gets through the whole pipeline of shooting it to publishing it now.
🍻 for the encouragement. Muchly appreciated.
Vivitar 135mm f2.8 close focusing (komine serial)



Really nice lens actually, very simple optically, (check the diagram here !) fast, sharp stopped down even a little. I have a vivitar combination variable extension tube and 2x teleconverter to use with it where the image quality is still acceptable stopped down, and gives you ~270mm and very slightly more than 1:1. Unfortunately it's hard to diffuse flash for something so long and it's not great to use in natural light.
🍻

The Vivitar Komine serial 28xxxxx said Close Focusing on the lens ? Or Macro Focusing on the lens? Or didn't say either on the lens?
There are multiple Vivitar 135mm 2.8 lenses and the one marked Close Focusing goes to 1:2. The ones with a serial indicating they're made by Komine under license are the ones people rate as the "proper" one. There are a few other 70s-80s lenses in the 90-105mm macro zone with a similar thing going on, same lens name, different factory making them, apparently different performances up close.

The macro focusing teleconverter I messed with while using it a bit is a separate item - it's a fairly standard 2xTC but with a focusing helicoid on it, so it can both teleconvert and increase magnification. The extension is more useful with a shorter lens than 135mm (better off using a diopter on something that long, if you want to increase magnification).
🍻 for this info & tip.
I had Tammy 90/2.5 sp macro around 2011 didn't use it for macro. This time around I will give a 90/2.5 macro + magnifying clip on glass a go for closeup/ macro of bees butterflies critters.
If you're just starting out I'd suggest just leaving the lens as-is without a diopter and just practice getting into position and not freaking the bees out, and just practice getting any shot at all. Don't stress too much about chasing them around, try and predict somewhere they're going to go. They aren't the easiest thing to shoot (fast, often move the flower they're on out of focus as they land, will often change facing so you shoot their bum instead, etc) so don't get discouraged if you're not instantly grabbing keepers. If you're using a manual focus lens in daylight I'd suggest just cranking the frames per second as high as it will go and keep shooting if you're even vaguely looking at a bee in the viewfinder.
🍻 for very useful tips. I hope it will also be useful to others reading this.

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Photography after all is interplay of light alongside perspective.
 
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anything but the very common and cheap 50mm1.8 (100mmf3.6) i dont see how they are usefull on m43 format.

On the other hand the legacy lenses have never worked better than on any of the modern FF mirrorless bodies (IBIS, EVF, focus helpers). Exceptional results are possible.

some examples

- Very sharp cheap 35mmf2.8 lenses make no sense on m43 (70mmf5.6 what is this..)

- very sharp and cheap 135mmf3.5 lens, makes no sense of m43...(270mmf7, what is this..)

anything wider than 50mm makes no sense, because the lenses just dont perform well enough. And anything longer neither...

Using speedboosters might open up some more possibilities, but the good ones are very expensive, never without downsides, and with used FF bodies below $500, idk...

its not much different for APSC.
Well, it's all made up. Any printed focal length on older lenses might be somewhere around 2-4mm different in terms of angle of view from another. And the F numbers could be even more ambitious compared to their T numbers. The idea of the bright apertures were being able to see what you were looking at, at all, and then stop down to get the lens edge to edge sharp to take the photo. But if the centre portion is already pretty good wide open on m43, and in any case you have a monster bright OLED EVF to check focus that works even if it's stopped down, you can get a lot more use cases out of the same glass.

I most often run around with an equivalent 120mm 5.6 and a 360mm 7.0, which don't really resemble an "ordinary" kind of lens for anything but 8x10 or 11x14 wet plate photography, but all the same they're bloody brilliant to use on a small sensor.

--
https://www.flickr.com/photos/piggsyface/
 
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