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Airyca
Guest
Okay, I put a Hoya filter on my wishlist (with a little note that one from URTH would be cool too). Thank you to all for your input, it's so nice to be able to post here and get really interesting responses.
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What about using a UV filter on occasions where you expect things like spray? Otherwise always use a lens hood. It protects the lens form bumps and it will improve many shots instead of degrading them as a filter can.
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glassoholic
Veteran Member
Agreed super tele lenses are very sensitive to poor filters... I used a base model Hoya HMC clear on my 300 Pro and it caused softness and focusing issues. The HMC filters had been used on many lenses up to short tele length and never been an issue for years. I changed to a top of the range Hoya HD Nano model and I can't see a difference now with that filter on. I also upgraded all my HMC filters to Hoya Fusion Antistatic, an upper middle of the range model, for peace of mind, and I can't see any difference or issues either with the 300 Pro and that model filter.I have an Urth 49mm uv filter on my Voigtlaender 50/2 APO Lanthar, which is the sharpest tool in the box so to speak. The filter wasn't especially expensive and I got a free pola with it. I can't see any difference in IQ (at 61Mpix) with the filter on or off. 50mm FF has the same angle of view as 25mm MFT.Thank you, This is great info.Nearly all my lenses have filters on. I only leave them off tele lenses where the hood protects the front element (and you can see loss of IQ with even quite expensive filters). I've scratched or smashed four filters in ten years.
I tend to use Hoya filters or Urth, but there are several good manufacturers. I just bought a 72mm Hoya Fusion One Next UV filter for just over £50. Should throw water droplets off in rain, protect against scratches and slight knocks, but who knows.
A used 20/1.7 is currently £200-235 range in the UK. mpb have a used 46mm B+W for £16. You can get a new K&F Concept 46mm for £9 with free postage. A new Hoya is £36.
I've never put a filter on the 20mm in 10+ years. Maybe I'll see what my local camera shop has used next time I'm in. The used lens price seems to have gone up a fair bit recently.
TLR You should be able to get a decent used 46mm filter from B+W, Hoya, Urth, Zeiss,... for a reasonable price. If you just want a reasonable and OK filter, then try K&F. Having had some bad experiences, I'd stay away from Tiffen personally.
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a few people have said they don't use filters, perhaps because of the lower lens price vs. image quality suffering. I mean my whole set up isn't too spendy really. But I don't have the $$ to replace it so I feel compelled to protect it.
I surely can see a difference with my Olympus 300/4. Not having a filter on that makes me nervous, but there is no point spending that much on a high IQ lens and then weakening its performance. The deep hood makes me feel better and I sure lock it in place when the cap is off.
I think it's perfectly reasonable to want to protect your lens. Have a look and see what your used market is like for filters. If it makes you feel better, keep the Tiffen pola on until you get a uv or protective filter. Most uv filters are also protective. I got a 12-45/4 a few months ago and didn't use the lens until I had a filter on it.
People occasionally start threads about protective filters and they can become quite heated. Some people do, and some people don't. I test.
Andrew
Here is the explanation regarding super tele lenses...
https://clarkvision.com/articles/evaluating_filter_quality/
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Mine is a Hoya HMC uv filter, so same experience. Maybe I’ll try a better filter.Agreed super tele lenses are very sensitive to poor filters... I used a base model Hoya HMC clear on my 300 Pro and it caused softness and focusing issues. The HMC filters had been used on many lenses up to short tele length and never been an issue for years. I changed to a top of the range Hoya HD Nano model and I can't see a difference now with that filter on. I also upgraded all my HMC filters to Hoya Fusion Antistatic, an upper middle of the range model, for peace of mind, and I can't see any difference or issues either with the 300 Pro and that model filter.I have an Urth 49mm uv filter on my Voigtlaender 50/2 APO Lanthar, which is the sharpest tool in the box so to speak. The filter wasn't especially expensive and I got a free pola with it. I can't see any difference in IQ (at 61Mpix) with the filter on or off. 50mm FF has the same angle of view as 25mm MFT.Thank you, This is great info.Nearly all my lenses have filters on. I only leave them off tele lenses where the hood protects the front element (and you can see loss of IQ with even quite expensive filters). I've scratched or smashed four filters in ten years.
I tend to use Hoya filters or Urth, but there are several good manufacturers. I just bought a 72mm Hoya Fusion One Next UV filter for just over £50. Should throw water droplets off in rain, protect against scratches and slight knocks, but who knows.
A used 20/1.7 is currently £200-235 range in the UK. mpb have a used 46mm B+W for £16. You can get a new K&F Concept 46mm for £9 with free postage. A new Hoya is £36.
I've never put a filter on the 20mm in 10+ years. Maybe I'll see what my local camera shop has used next time I'm in. The used lens price seems to have gone up a fair bit recently.
TL
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a few people have said they don't use filters, perhaps because of the lower lens price vs. image quality suffering. I mean my whole set up isn't too spendy really. But I don't have the $$ to replace it so I feel compelled to protect it.
I surely can see a difference with my Olympus 300/4. Not having a filter on that makes me nervous, but there is no point spending that much on a high IQ lens and then weakening its performance. The deep hood makes me feel better and I sure lock it in place when the cap is off.
I think it's perfectly reasonable to want to protect your lens. Have a look and see what your used market is like for filters. If it makes you feel better, keep the Tiffen pola on until you get a uv or protective filter. Most uv filters are also protective. I got a 12-45/4 a few months ago and didn't use the lens until I had a filter on it.
People occasionally start threads about protective filters and they can become quite heated. Some people do, and some people don't. I test.
Andrew
Here is the explanation regarding super tele lenses...
https://clarkvision.com/articles/evaluating_filter_quality/
Thanks
Andrew
Bassam Guy
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Hoya is a brand name, and Hoya makes a myriad of different types of lens filters. What kind of filter is now on your wish list?
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Airyca
Guest
I'm not sure on forum rules about linking to other shopping type websites but B&H had Hoya 46mm EVO Antistatic Protector Filter and a Hoya 46mm NXT Plus UV Filter. I think the first one would be more exact to what I'm looking for but the second one was a little less expensive.
Bassam Guy
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I've pasted many links of various types in this forum and never had any issue. I am not interested in buying any filters and they're not very hard to find, so a link is probably unnecessary.
I get by with one 62mm polarizing filter (step-up rings for smaller threaded lenses), one ND10 filter, and one 55mm 2A filter to control purple blobs from my PL 9mm f1.7. I haven't scratched or damaged a lens in 46 years of photography (damn, did I just tempt fate?).
Thomas Kachadurian
Senior Member
You don't need a protection filter. The lens isn't even expensive, and the filter is just a much larger piece of glass to get crap on it.
My 20mm is more than 10 years old, lives in my briefcase. It has traveled the world and still unmarked. Keep a lens cap on when in storage and transit, and relax and enjoy your great lens.
Tom
My 20mm is more than 10 years old, lives in my briefcase. It has traveled the world and still unmarked. Keep a lens cap on when in storage and transit, and relax and enjoy your great lens.
Tom
deserteagle56
Well-known member
We all use/carry our cameras in different ways and use them under different conditions. I once ruined a $1500 lens when the lens cap came off while the camera was in the camera bag. I was on a dirt bike on a rough trail; the vibration caused the lens cap to rattle/rub against the front lens element. By the time I discovered what was happening it was too late, the lens was unusable. And after that I always made sure I had some kind of filter over the front of the lens.
Thomas Kachadurian
Senior Member
I just posted to the OP that no filter was needed, but based on your post I need to clarify. In 35 years of professional photography I did use "protection" filters sometime.
Windy location with sand, beaches, excavation sites, etc.
I did some work with a company that did blow in insulation, filters were always in place.
When shooting from a bicycle where my lenses might get jostled, like your dirt bike story.
But, filters were never a fixture on my lenses, they were deployed when needed.
Tom
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Airyca
Guest
In defense of having a filter for me personally, I have 2 young children and we do primarily outdoor adventures, so it's a rough and tumble life for my stuff. But I totally get what people are saying about using or not using a filter. I think it also makes sense to use it when there might be a need, but not all of the time. I know my set up overall really isn't expensive but if it breaks, I cannot afford to replace it so I do worry.
I don't use a lens hood for this lens but have on the kit lens before when portability is less of an issue. the 20 mm is just so compact I like it like that.
Learning a lot from you guys, thank you!!
I don't use a lens hood for this lens but have on the kit lens before when portability is less of an issue. the 20 mm is just so compact I like it like that.
Learning a lot from you guys, thank you!!
Bassam Guy
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I wasn't trying to pick a fight. I was just trying to save Airyca the trouble of posting a link since I'm not interested in looking at B&H's offerings. That I've never damaged a lens element is probably just luck - certainly not my lifestyle that includes mountain biking, beaches, mountain climbing, kayaking, etc.
alcelc
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I don't have the 20, but on my lenses (Panny exclusive at the present moment) I am happy with either the clear protective filter from Hoya Ultra thin series or from Panny.
In last 20 years digital life (using Panny cameras & lenses exclusively again), no big negative effect been observed.
I shall also recommand to put on a lens hood for protection. The lens filter is good to avoid dust, rain, oil smudge or finger print on front element of lenses. Lens hood indeed do the actual protection from bumping or hitting...
CPL and VND filters are useful only when they are needed. I won't wear sunglasses indoor or in the evening...
In last 20 years digital life (using Panny cameras & lenses exclusively again), no big negative effect been observed.
I shall also recommand to put on a lens hood for protection. The lens filter is good to avoid dust, rain, oil smudge or finger print on front element of lenses. Lens hood indeed do the actual protection from bumping or hitting...
CPL and VND filters are useful only when they are needed. I won't wear sunglasses indoor or in the evening...
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Airyca
Guest
It's all good! I enjoy everyone's opinions and commentary it's honestly really cool to hear from so many people about this topic! I took my camera out to the woods without a filter yesterday and almost accidentally smashed it on a rock when I was bending over. just almost though so we're all good!! lol
Apologies if this was already brought up, I did skimmed through the posts and didn't see anything on what I'm about to bring up.
Take this information with a pinch of salt. I don't know if this was confirmed or still speculation. Years ago someone used a filter on their original 20mm 1.7 mm mark 1. I think the photographer bought or tried the 20mm mark 2 and found the lens to focus much faster than the original. The speculation was the filter he used on the original lens may of add additional wear and tear on motor, causing the lens to focus slower.
Take this information with a pinch of salt. I don't know if this was confirmed or still speculation. Years ago someone used a filter on their original 20mm 1.7 mm mark 1. I think the photographer bought or tried the 20mm mark 2 and found the lens to focus much faster than the original. The speculation was the filter he used on the original lens may of add additional wear and tear on motor, causing the lens to focus slower.
cameron2
Senior Member
I had major IQ issues with a filter on the 20mm lens. Internal reflections, with a high quality filter. I'd suggest avoiding it. This topic comes up every year or two here.
This thread had me checking the used price of my 20/1.7.
I realised that I should protect it with a filter. I've spent 10 years thinking they were too cheap to justify a filter and maybe I swapped the filter to another lens at some point.
Anyway, I just got a used B+W 46mm F-Pro 010 UV-Haze MRC Filter for £21.95, including a big carriage cost. There were cheaper used 46mm filters, but they all cost the same postage...
Thank you for bringing this up!
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I realised that I should protect it with a filter. I've spent 10 years thinking they were too cheap to justify a filter and maybe I swapped the filter to another lens at some point.
Anyway, I just got a used B+W 46mm F-Pro 010 UV-Haze MRC Filter for £21.95, including a big carriage cost. There were cheaper used 46mm filters, but they all cost the same postage...
Thank you for bringing this up!
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