Guess I'll be slightly contrarian and question the practicality of a tripod for BTS footage. Seems like a situation where you want to maximize your mobility. As a former X-H2 owner I'll say that it's a fine camera for video once you get it setup (although I will say that Fuji AF suuuuucks). I tended to shoot 8K because it gives you a lot of latitude to "zoom" in (because you can crop to 4K or HD), but the files choked even my M2 Macbook Pro. The 4KHQ is effectively the same bitrate at the 8K, FWIW. The main downside of the XH2 (besides the AF) is that it's very light, which actually makes camera shake worse. Consider grabbing a cage and a top handle (Smallrig makes great ones) so you can hand-hold it more steadily.
Again, contrary to some others, I would not recommend shooting in the highest bitrate possible, which would be something like 4K HQ ProRes, which is ridiculous for a video newbie to shoot in (I don't mean that as any kind of insult, it's just like taking a new driver and putting them in an F1 car). I'd recommend shooting something like 4K 200Mbps bitrate LongGOP in a standard color profile. Fuji's FLOG2 is great, but LOG shooting might be something you explore as you get more used to a video workflow and actually use a proper video editor. If you're using free programs, there's a decent chance that you will have compatibility issues with Fuji h.265 files, so just do some test runs and see. IME Fuji's video files cause worse system slowdowns than similar files from something like a Sony, so don't be surprised if you experience some performance issues during playback and editing.
Also another thing people aren't mentioning that you should know is that with video (I'm generalizing here, so people shouldn't come at me with the "well actuallys") ISO is sort of different. Maybe not different, but you generally aren't going to use it in the same way as with photos. So the Fuji XH2 has a "base" ISO of 1000, which is where the sensor gets the best dynamic range. You can set it higher or lower, but you'll get the best performance at ISO1000, whether you're in bright sunlight or very dark. So you'll have to consider this when you think about lighting, because ISO 1000 + a shutter speed of 1/60--assuming you're shooting at 30fps, and as a rule of thumb but certainly not a hard-and-fast "180 degree shutter" thing (Google it)--will get you overexposed if you don't reduce the light. I'll note that this is less important if you don't shoot in FLOG, but you may notice that when you switch to video mode the XH2 defaults to ISO1000 and shows lower ISOs in red (or maybe in brackets, I don't remember exactly) and this is why.
So you'll commonly hear video people talking about ND filters much more than photo people do. Because in anything but low light, you often will have to lower the amount of light to control exposure, because in video the exposure parameters are much more locked in compared to photography. If you have too much light in video, lowering the ISO or cranking the shutter will have potentially negative effects that most times you want to avoid. So if you are locked into a shutter speed of 1/60, 30fps, and want to maintain a consistent aperture for consistent DOF, the only thing you can do to control exposure is to use an ND filter.
