Photoshop Elements: White halos removed, faint black line remains?

Flycaster

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I am having a problem removing white halos when using Photoshop Elements 18. The halos (yellow arrows) are removed, but there remains a residual light black line (orangish arrows) that then needs to be removed (I've been using normal clone stamp).

This is the method that I use to first remove the halos:
. Although this tutorial is for Photoshop, I assumed I could use it for Elements, also. However, there were some problems. Namely, I don't think I was able to get an adjustment layer. When clicking on the "create new fill or adjustment layer," I would get a drop down (Solid color, Gradient, Pattern, etc,) but not a new layer. Should I be choosing something from the drop down? So, without being able to get an adjustment layer, I would change the blend to Darken, set the clone stamp to 100%, 5-6 px for size, and run the stamp along the white halo edge. Halo gone, but now a faint black line.

My only thought is that when I go from Normal to Darken with the blend mode, the background gets pretty noisy. And, it could be that when running the clone stamp, it does get rid of the white halo, but it may be picking up the noise...thus causing the faint black line??? But, if this is the case, then this method won't leave a black line if the there is no (or very little) noise in the background used by the clone stamp???

Here's a test image showing the white halo, and the residual black line after halo removal. So, how would you guys handle this issue?



97a36d3a78be465eb76bd3971f670e51.jpg
 
It would be a whole lot better to avoid producing the halos in the first place - are these jpegs or RAWs you're messing with here?
Aren't you right...no halos to begin with. Almost all are shot in RAW, however, I have been fooling around with taking extended tele with JPGs. As I have previously acknowledged, I know I need to reduce my halo producing edits. Most are likely due to over-sharpening and over-contrasting. Now when I edit, I'm surely looking for halos when doing these functions so that I can eliminate halos by reducing the edit before saving the image.
 
It would be a whole lot better to avoid producing the halos in the first place - are these jpegs or RAWs you're messing with here?
Aren't you right...no halos to begin with. Almost all are shot in RAW, however, I have been fooling around with taking extended tele with JPGs.
It's much better to shoot raw, then crop and uprez (if required) in post.
 
It's much better to shoot raw, then crop and uprez (if required) in post.
How true. It just so happened that after shooting RAW at 400mm and then cropping for many years, I got the bug to see what shooting JPG at 800mm (extended zoom) would be like. And, as I quickly learned, although I did get some good shots, shooting RAW usually lead to a better outcome after editing. Although, I must say, that many who have posted on this forum, do shoot JPG with good results...but I think I'll just stick with RAW and do the cropping when necessary.
 
It's much better to shoot raw, then crop and uprez (if required) in post.
How true. It just so happened that after shooting RAW at 400mm and then cropping for many years, I got the bug to see what shooting JPG at 800mm (extended zoom) would be like. And, as I quickly learned, although I did get some good shots, shooting RAW usually lead to a better outcome after editing. Although, I must say, that many who have posted on this forum, do shoot JPG with good results...but I think I'll just stick with RAW and do the cropping when necessary.
The problem with editing OOC JPEGs is that they've already been sharpened in-camera. So there may already be sharpening halos before you do anything.
 
The problem with editing OOC JPEGs is that they've already been sharpened in-camera. So there mabut, then again, I guess one could y already be sharpening halos before you do anything.
A good point. Although one can set the in-camera editing functions not to sharpen too much (or not to do something else known to cause halos,) this could never be a "universal setting" covering all situations. Thus, as some editing will be needed, why not just shoot RAW and accept that editing will be necessary. Quite frankly, I'm retired, I'm just a photo hobbyist, I've got the time, I enjoy editing, so why not RAW?
 
The problem with editing OOC JPEGs is that they've already been sharpened in-camera. So there mabut, then again, I guess one could y already be sharpening halos before you do anything.
A good point. Although one can set the in-camera editing functions not to sharpen too much (or not to do something else known to cause halos,) this could never be a "universal setting" covering all situations. Thus, as some editing will be needed, why not just shoot RAW and accept that editing will be necessary. Quite frankly, I'm retired, I'm just a photo hobbyist, I've got the time, I enjoy editing, so why not RAW?
Yes, I share that point of view.
 
White halos are often the result of over sharpening with unsharpen mask.
 
It would be a whole lot better to avoid producing the halos in the first place - are these jpegs or RAWs you're messing with here?
Aren't you right...no halos to begin with. Almost all are shot in RAW, however, I have been fooling around with taking extended tele with JPGs. As I have previously acknowledged, I know I need to reduce my halo producing edits. Most are likely due to over-sharpening and over-contrasting. Now when I edit, I'm surely looking for halos when doing these functions so that I can eliminate halos by reducing the edit before saving the image.
Always save the unedited image.
 
White halos are often the result of over sharpening with unsharpen mask.
Yeah, I now stay very aware of that which can cause halos...particularly anything that may be a "sharpener."
 

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