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IDK that the green assist lamp on the cameras themselves really help all that much... I mean for me, I have my AF Assistant lamp turned off, and the focusing ability (at least on the Z8) is pretty much the same, whether it's on or off.Nikon could solve this problem by releasing a flash with a green auto focus assist light (built into flash) instead of the current red ones...
It's very strange to me that this issue is not talked about so much.
I seem to remember reading that the in Z8 and Z9, the data from the sensor is spit into two data streams -- one for the viewfinder and one for processing the image. The AF algorithms work on the viewfinder data stream, so if the viewfinder looks dark, the AF will have trouble. If you set D8 as Thom describes and brighten the view in the viewfinder, the AF system actually get better data to work with.To be honest, I don't know this option improves AF accuracy or speed -- I think it's mainly for ease of viewing the scene in the EVF when a trigger or flash is attached.Custom Setting #D8 > Show effects of settings > Only when flash is not usedHoping some folks can share how shoot with a Z8 in very low light with a speedlight.
I'll have to try it, but this almost sounds backwards. If there are two streams, one for EVF and one for the processing, then the one for the EVF shouldn't impact the EVF at all, thus my comment about how the option may not have any impact as it may just impact the EVF stream only. I think on older Z models, processing and AF AND the EVF were read off the same stream since they only used one stream instead of 2 like on the Z8/Z9 and that's why the other Z cameras struggle a bit more (although likely mostly because of the slower sensor read-out speed on the other Z cameras that are non-stacked sensors).I seem to remember reading that the in Z8 and Z9, the data from the sensor is spit into two data streams -- one for the viewfinder and one for processing the image. The AF algorithms work on the viewfinder data stream, so if the viewfinder looks dark, the AF will have trouble. If you set D8 as Thom describes and brighten the view in the viewfinder, the AF system actually get better data to work with.To be honest, I don't know this option improves AF accuracy or speed -- I think it's mainly for ease of viewing the scene in the EVF when a trigger or flash is attached.Custom Setting #D8 > Show effects of settings > Only when flash is not usedHoping some folks can share how shoot with a Z8 in very low light with a speedlight.
It should be easily testable. Try focusing in dim light with different D8 settings. If I get a chance, I'll give it a try.
Yes that is the solution to more responsive AF in low light; wide open/higher ISO. But it is not a solution when there is a preference for shooting at a lower ISO (400-1600) in a dark room at 5.6 with a flash. Some subjects look better with more depth of field, less noise, suppressing ambient light and really relying on the FlashI typically also use faster lenses, at or near wide-open for these scenarios. When I'm using a 24-70mm f/2.8, I'm very often at f/2.8. For a grip-and-grin, I'm usually at or wider than 35mm, or 10 feet or further away, so I figure I only need to stop down for large groups because I should have a good amount in focus even at f/2.8.
It's been discussed here before. Nikon Z6II with SB-900 - AF-assist (i-TTL) questionNikon could solve this problem by releasing a flash with a green auto focus assist light (built into flash) instead of the current red ones...
It's very strange to me that this issue is not talked about so much.
I remember in the old days shooting wedding receptions in a dimly lit room we'd just set the 35mm lens to f5.6.5 and preset focus and shoot away. Never missed a shot!Hello,
Hoping some folks can share how shoot with a Z8 in very low light with a speedlight.
I shoot a lot of receptions/weddings. I'm finding that the Z8 is almost completely unusable in a somewhat dark room when trying to use a speedlight. I was recently photographing a party and every time that I'd approach a group to shoot a grip and grin, I ended up awkwardly standing there as I waited for the camera to search for focus.....which it never found at times. Totally embarrassing! If people are moving around on a dim dance floor, forget it. I'll miss almost every shot. I've been having to switch to my DSLR in these situations because the focus is instant. I've been shooting events for 15 years or so and never had this issue....even with old DSLR's.
I understand that mirrorless cameras do not trigger the red assist beam that speedlights are equipped with.
How are people working through this problem?
I can remember in the old days of setting camera's aperture to guide-number vs. range in distance. A few moons later, using the ultra advanced auto-flashes such as Vivtar 283 with it's adjustable return flash power sensor. :-DI remember in the old days shooting wedding receptions in a dimly lit room we'd just set the 35mm lens to f5.6.5 and preset focus and shoot away. Never missed a shot!Hello,
Hoping some folks can share how shoot with a Z8 in very low light with a speedlight.
I shoot a lot of receptions/weddings. I'm finding that the Z8 is almost completely unusable in a somewhat dark room when trying to use a speedlight. I was recently photographing a party and every time that I'd approach a group to shoot a grip and grin, I ended up awkwardly standing there as I waited for the camera to search for focus.....which it never found at times. Totally embarrassing! If people are moving around on a dim dance floor, forget it. I'll miss almost every shot. I've been having to switch to my DSLR in these situations because the focus is instant. I've been shooting events for 15 years or so and never had this issue....even with old DSLR's.
I understand that mirrorless cameras do not trigger the red assist beam that speedlights are equipped with.
How are people working through this problem?
It is visible red light, not IR which will not get through the IR-blocking filter in front of the sensor.Sb5000 also has IR/ red af assist light
Actually not as it turns out. The AF modules are internally masked down to f/5.6 so there is zero advantage to faster lenses. DSLRs and MLs are on level ground so far…, so does not work on Z8.
what aperture are you shooting at as Z uses set aperture up to f5.6 and f5.6 thereafter. Dslr always does af with lens wide open
That is a hot ticket. The AF algorithms are fed the same video stream that goes to the monitor and viewfinder. The signal level needs to get well above the noise level.and only stops down to set aperture for shutter release. Ie shoot f1.8 lens at f4, af is done at f4 on nikon Z.
Some people use modelling light now included on sb500 & godox v1 or a video light for extreme low light on mirrorless. See Neil van Niekerk setup
https://neilvn.com/tangents/finding...low-light-auto-focus-with-mirrorless-cameras/
How is your custom setting d9 set, as af is better on my z6 ii when always except for flash - ie have no ambient exposure preview when flash is on. Af struggles more where viewfinder image is underexposed.
My z8 is with the couriers, waited for unit that is not effected by the 2 service advisories or fixed before shipped.
Well, no, because if you did both there wouldn't be much point to the flash. You still need to set your exposure for the room, and count on your flash to properly illuminate your subjects. If you were wanting illuminated subjects while making the room turn to darkness, opening your aperture up would make you lower your ISO.Yes that is the solution to more responsive AF in low light; wide open/higher ISO.I typically also use faster lenses, at or near wide-open for these scenarios. When I'm using a 24-70mm f/2.8, I'm very often at f/2.8. For a grip-and-grin, I'm usually at or wider than 35mm, or 10 feet or further away, so I figure I only need to stop down for large groups because I should have a good amount in focus even at f/2.8.
I agree with most of this (less noise, suppressing ambient lighting, and actually using/relying on flash for exposure), but I've never been of the opinion that f/5.6+ is required for impromptu group shots. At 35mm, f/2.8, 10 feet away, I have over 4 feet of focus which should be plenty. The room around them is going to be dark anyway, so I've never thought that it needed to be in focus.But it is not a solution when there is a preference for shooting at a lower ISO (400-1600) in a dark room at 5.6 with a flash. Some subjects look better with more depth of field, less noise, suppressing ambient light and really relying on the Flash
Please list your source for internally stopped down to f5.6.Actually not as it turns out. The AF modules are internally masked down to f/5.6 so there is zero advantage to faster lenses. DSLRs and MLs are on level ground so far…what aperture are you shooting at as Z uses set aperture up to f5.6 and f5.6 thereafter. Dslr always does af with lens wide open
I’m making a reasonable sounding guess here: DSLRs have an advantage of larger sensing elements in the AF modules vs pixels within imaging sensors, therefore they have a better signal level to work with. Likewise the Z6 AF sensing pixels are larger than those in the 45 MP Z bodies so they have a slight low light focusing advantage over their brothers.
and only stops down to set aperture for shutter release. Ie shoot f1.8 lens at f4, af is done at f4 on nikon Z.
I have to agree on that. I noticed that too, with my Z5 when it comes to shooting moving kids in the poor light indoor when I was testing the Z5.Saying that, from using Z6/Z7/Z7ii cameras for weddings and receptions, I found that Dynamic mode works very, very well for low light. In the handful of times the Z8 seemed to be struggling with Wide Area Small - Subject Detection, I switched it over to the Dynamic (Small) and it worked better. I generally don't focus-and-recompose much anymore, but I do find myself doing it from time to time.
I'm surprised no one has mentioned Dynamic so far in the thread. I think it works better than Single-Point, personally.
Good luck!
Yes. Is your VF quite dark when using flash? Mirrorless AF is dependent on having a bright VF. So if having that setting on is giving you a dark VF along with your flash settings, then that is one culprit.Custom Setting #D8 > Show effects of settings > Only when flash is not usedHoping some folks can share how shoot with a Z8 in very low light with a speedlight.
That's for seeing in the dark to make compositions when shooting starry skies, etc. It's extremely noisy, like night vision goggles. I don't think you can really focus much with it on.Would starlight mode help?Custom Setting #D8 > Show effects of settings > Only when flash is not usedHoping some folks can share how shoot with a Z8 in very low light with a speedlight.
Confused my Z9 hasfocussed suitably well in very dark conditions - even if reliant on the AF assist lamp on the camera. Yes sometimes the AF gets slower and there can be some hunting but it focusses as long as there is something discernible for the DSP to suitably handle. With most of my lenses I can focus on the brighter planets.Sounds like another reason that DSLR's are unlikely to completely go away at least for the immediate future. It's hard to believe Nikon missed this one. Did other manufacturers do the same? Will no one's new mirrorless focus in really dark situations, or just Nikon?
I have tried to ascertain this, by asking around in forums when I come across photographers who have used other systems but have not gotten a conclusive answer , although the trend from what I consider reliable posters point towards other systems having similar issues.Sounds like another reason that DSLR's are unlikely to completely go away at least for the immediate future. It's hard to believe Nikon missed this one. Did other manufacturers do the same? Will no one's new mirrorless focus in really dark situations, or just Nikon?
Where did you get this from and what do you mean 'optimised'. I have found my Z 800pf f/6.3 lens works rather well with birds in flight in lowish light with ISO pushing sometimes 10,000 or higher - but yes I am talking my Z9 here. My z7ii was not successful in this regard at all - whether it was the camera or operator I don't know.One thing is sure: While the Z cameras are optimized to focus around F5.6, IN GOOD LIGHT.
Focusing on the Z's is always done from the EVF stream. Thus, if the EVF stream is brightened, the camera will focus better ;~).To be honest, I don't know this option improves AF accuracy or speed -- I think it's mainly for ease of viewing the scene in the EVF when a trigger or flash is attached.Custom Setting #D8 > Show effects of settings > Only when flash is not used