OM-5 focus stacking for insects

Columbusrat said:

Has anyone determined the best differential and number of frames for in-camera focus stacking (handheld) macro shots in the OM5? My usual subjects range from butterflies to bugs just a few mm long, and includes spiders, which tend to have their legs just a long way in front and a long way behind their bodies.

I understand the camera takes one frame at the focus point, then some both in front and behind - with most behind. Is that correct? This might be less than ideal if a long-legged spider is facing me where I'm not too concerned about what's further back.

TIA

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Columbusrat said:

Has anyone determined the best differential and number of frames for in-camera focus stacking (handheld) macro shots in the OM5? My usual subjects range from butterflies to bugs just a few mm long, and includes spiders, which tend to have their legs just a long way in front and a long way behind their bodies.

I understand the camera takes one frame at the focus point, then some both in front and behind - with most behind. Is that correct? This might be less than ideal if a long-legged spider is facing me where I'm not too concerned about what's further back.

TIA

Click to expand...

Columbusrat said:

...I understand the camera takes one frame at the focus point, then some both in front and behind - with most behind. Is that correct? This might be less than ideal if a long-legged spider is facing me where I'm not too concerned about what's further back.

Click to expand...

David5833 said:

Sometimes it works out just fine with the 8 frames and it's definitely convenient and usually better than just a single frame, but for my money focus bracketing plus stacking in post is a lot more robust and predictable...you don't have to guess where to put the initial focus point. The 1 Series cameras that stack 15 frames in-camera are somewhat better, but bracketing a lot of shots with a small differential, focusing on the closest part of the subject, selecting only those that cover the subject and compositing in post is still better for 5 series cameras IMHO.

Click to expand...

David5833 said:

Columbusrat said:

...I understand the camera takes one frame at the focus point, then some both in front and behind - with most behind. Is that correct? This might be less than ideal if a long-legged spider is facing me where I'm not too concerned about what's further back.

Click to expand...

That's correct. It takes the first shot at the initial focus point, then takes two more closer to the camera and five more behind the initial focus point for a total of seven focus differentials from front to back. Trial and error will give you the best result because it depends on the the aperture, the distance to the subject, and the focus differential. You don't want it to be too big because there will be OOF bands within the bracket and you don't want it to be too short because the whole subject won't be in focus.

Sometimes it works out just fine with the 8 frames and it's definitely convenient and usually better than just a single frame, but for my money focus bracketing plus stacking in post is a lot more robust and predictable...you don't have to guess where to put the initial focus point. The 1 Series cameras that stack 15 frames in-camera are somewhat better, but bracketing a lot of shots with a small differential, focusing on the closest part of the subject, selecting only those that cover the subject and compositing in post is still better for 5 series cameras IMHO.

Click to expand...

RSTP14 said:

David5833 said:

Columbusrat said:

...I understand the camera takes one frame at the focus point, then some both in front and behind - with most behind. Is that correct? This might be less than ideal if a long-legged spider is facing me where I'm not too concerned about what's further back.

Click to expand...

That's correct. It takes the first shot at the initial focus point, then takes two more closer to the camera and five more behind the initial focus point for a total of seven focus differentials from front to back. Trial and error will give you the best result because it depends on the the aperture, the distance to the subject, and the focus differential. You don't want it to be too big because there will be OOF bands within the bracket and you don't want it to be too short because the whole subject won't be in focus.

Sometimes it works out just fine with the 8 frames and it's definitely convenient and usually better than just a single frame, but for my money focus bracketing plus stacking in post is a lot more robust and predictable...you don't have to guess where to put the initial focus point. The 1 Series cameras that stack 15 frames in-camera are somewhat better, but bracketing a lot of shots with a small differential, focusing on the closest part of the subject, selecting only those that cover the subject and compositing in post is still better for 5 series cameras IMHO.

Click to expand...

Focus Stacking is just too much guess work it seems. One has to pick a random Focus point at any given aperture and cross fingers that the number shots and steps will work, and then maybe, just maybe, the subject will still be there when one realizes it didn't work as hoped.

Click to expand...

Bassam Guy said:

RSTP14 said:

David5833 said:

Columbusrat said:

...I understand the camera takes one frame at the focus point, then some both in front and behind - with most behind. Is that correct? This might be less than ideal if a long-legged spider is facing me where I'm not too concerned about what's further back.

Click to expand...

That's correct. It takes the first shot at the initial focus point, then takes two more closer to the camera and five more behind the initial focus point for a total of seven focus differentials from front to back. Trial and error will give you the best result because it depends on the the aperture, the distance to the subject, and the focus differential. You don't want it to be too big because there will be OOF bands within the bracket and you don't want it to be too short because the whole subject won't be in focus.

Sometimes it works out just fine with the 8 frames and it's definitely convenient and usually better than just a single frame, but for my money focus bracketing plus stacking in post is a lot more robust and predictable...you don't have to guess where to put the initial focus point. The 1 Series cameras that stack 15 frames in-camera are somewhat better, but bracketing a lot of shots with a small differential, focusing on the closest part of the subject, selecting only those that cover the subject and compositing in post is still better for 5 series cameras IMHO.

Click to expand...

Focus Stacking is just too much guess work it seems. One has to pick a random Focus point at any given aperture and cross fingers that the number shots and steps will work, and then maybe, just maybe, the subject will still be there when one realizes it didn't work as hoped.

Click to expand...

That's tight. Guesswork on top of hope that the insect remains still.

I occasionally stack but much prefer focus bracketing. Toss those that focus too near or too far - but I don't use it for anything more animate than a flower.

Click to expand...

RSTP14 said:

Focus Stacking is just too much guess work it seems. One has to pick a random Focus point at any given aperture and cross fingers that the number shots and steps will work, and then maybe, just maybe, the subject will still be there when one realizes it didn't work as hoped.

Click to expand...

Brandon birder said:

Many insects have resting phases where they don’t move much and the stack only takes half a second. I use the 60mm f2.8 macro and a 300mm f4 pro.

Click to expand...

Bassam Guy said:

RSTP14 said:

David5833 said:

Columbusrat said:

...I understand the camera takes one frame at the focus point, then some both in front and behind - with most behind. Is that correct? This might be less than ideal if a long-legged spider is facing me where I'm not too concerned about what's further back.

Click to expand...

That's correct. It takes the first shot at the initial focus point, then takes two more closer to the camera and five more behind the initial focus point for a total of seven focus differentials from front to back. Trial and error will give you the best result because it depends on the the aperture, the distance to the subject, and the focus differential. You don't want it to be too big because there will be OOF bands within the bracket and you don't want it to be too short because the whole subject won't be in focus.

Sometimes it works out just fine with the 8 frames and it's definitely convenient and usually better than just a single frame, but for my money focus bracketing plus stacking in post is a lot more robust and predictable...you don't have to guess where to put the initial focus point. The 1 Series cameras that stack 15 frames in-camera are somewhat better, but bracketing a lot of shots with a small differential, focusing on the closest part of the subject, selecting only those that cover the subject and compositing in post is still better for 5 series cameras IMHO.

Click to expand...

Focus Stacking is just too much guess work it seems. One has to pick a random Focus point at any given aperture and cross fingers that the number shots and steps will work, and then maybe, just maybe, the subject will still be there when one realizes it didn't work as hoped.

Click to expand...

That's tight. Guesswork on top of hope that the insect remains still.

I occasionally stack but much prefer focus bracketing. Toss those that focus too near or too far - but I don't use it for anything more animate than a flower.

Click to expand...

Columbusrat said:

Brandon birder said:

Many insects have resting phases where they don’t move much and the stack only takes half a second. I use the 60mm f2.8 macro and a 300mm f4 pro.

Click to expand...

Wow, that's a lot faster than my OM5 - I'll have to borrow hubby's OM1... Though I don't know how much of that time is taking the photos (hence the need to stay as still as possible) and how much is combining the shots.

Click to expand...

David5833 said:

Columbusrat said:

Brandon birder said:

Many insects have resting phases where they don’t move much and the stack only takes half a second. I use the 60mm f2.8 macro and a 300mm f4 pro.

Click to expand...

Wow, that's a lot faster than my OM5 - I'll have to borrow hubby's OM1... Though I don't know how much of that time is taking the photos (hence the need to stay as still as possible) and how much is combining the shots.

Click to expand...

Your OM-5 should finish shooting the bracket about as quickly. It's only shooting 8 frames in silent high, it should feel almost instantaneous. The output stacked image will take longer to process than the OM-1 and may not be as successful, but actual shooting time should not be much longer. You can see when the shooting stops because the display goes black. If yours is taking longer, make sure "Charge time" is zero if not using flash.

Click to expand...

Columbusrat said:

David5833 said:

Columbusrat said:

Brandon birder said:

Many insects have resting phases where they don’t move much and the stack only takes half a second. I use the 60mm f2.8 macro and a 300mm f4 pro.

Click to expand...

Wow, that's a lot faster than my OM5 - I'll have to borrow hubby's OM1... Though I don't know how much of that time is taking the photos (hence the need to stay as still as possible) and how much is combining the shots.

Click to expand...

Your OM-5 should finish shooting the bracket about as quickly. It's only shooting 8 frames in silent high, it should feel almost instantaneous. The output stacked image will take longer to process than the OM-1 and may not be as successful, but actual shooting time should not be much longer. You can see when the shooting stops because the display goes black. If yours is taking longer, make sure "Charge time" is zero if not using flash.

Click to expand...

And there was me trying to stay still and not breathe or blink for all the time it said it was busy! Thanks David

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