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It a great lens doesn't need a heap of post processing unless converting to monochromeTo no one in particular. Mine work good. I like it, but I didn't read all the\stuff that has been said like some of you-all, nor did I think it was important to cite it all. Sorry. My vote is "It's a good lens."
John
It’s a great lens. I wish it had a brighter aperture, but that’s why the 17mm f/1.2 exists.I've owned this lens twice and have wanted to like it a whole lot more than I was ever able to. I think in part because the online community heaps praise on it so I thought I must be missing something. I rarely see a negative review and apart from people wondering about the lack of weather sealing for what is an expensive lens, it seems to tick a lot of boxes for people. Indeed It pairs well with my GM5.
And yet....damn, this lens is contrasty. In the end it was this more than anything else that decided against it for me. Can a lens design be considered to have too much contrast? I was curious to know if other users felt it had a particularly high degree of contrast built into the design.
The f/1.2 Pro lenses are weird in that they have nice spherical aberration, which means tasty bokeh wide open, but get bitingly sharp when stopped down a bit. Canon, Sony and Nikon have since surpassed the f/1.2 trio, but they are more than double the price…They generally are both too expensive for my wallet, and too big and too heavy to carry for my tastes tooI want em and will buy and sell to get them.
Within the small primes in m43, I feel like the 15/1.7 does have "some" microcontrast. But I do not think enough of it to compete with say the 17/1.2pro which you already own. The 15mm is just 115g, the 17/1.2 is a massive 390g. More than 3 times heavier, and 2x the price. For me way too much weight and $$ to justify the 5 or 10% better IQ.
Raw.Not sure if you are processing RAW or jpeg here.Yes, I think so too. Adjustments to increase contrast don't always introduce visible noise or artifacts. I've tested this by increasing the exposure and reducing the lightness in post. Then I can adjust the contrast in the finer details without introducing any visible noise or artifacts. The end result is that the finer details exhibit more contrast creating a vibrant and detailed looking image.I don’t think we fundamentally disagree.The introduction of artifacts doesn't mean an adjustment can't be made. Adjustment doesn't necessarily mean the goal is to enhance it, the goal could be to reduce it, which typically won't introduce unwanted artifacts. This is refering to micro contrast that's visible in an image.Artefacts that might be visible at your chosen viewing conditions and will be visible if you view large enough. Try heavy sharpening on an image with a poor lens at different viewing sizes. The smaller you view, the better sharpening makes it look, unless it’s noisy.What's the difference between adjusting and making it look better?It cannot be adjusted but you can make it look better,Sorry, it's not clear to me if you're saying it can or cannot be adjusted.It’s a property of the lens, although the system MTF involves the sensor.Comparing lenses would be a good way to identify it. If micro contrast is visible in an image would it follow that it can be adjusted like other parameters of the image?I guess you need to look at similar images taken with lenses with good high frequency MTF results vs lenses with lesser results until you get a feel for what it looks like. A previous post by cba_melbourne on what it looks like is a good clue.I see. How do you go about identifying micro contrast in an image?I'm just saying that micro contrast is visible in images and a property of lenses.I think I'm missing what the correlation is here.The signatures of my Loxia 21/2.8, Laowa 10/2 and Tamron 35/1.4 are sufficiently distinctive that I can recognise them with a quick glance at images. My two Tamron zooms have a similar but lesser impact in the centre area. They all need stopping down a little bit to get there.
Reminds me of the quote about yellow in Rosencrantz and Guildenstern Are Dead.
You can change the appearance of an image by processing. With AI you can make convincing images with no starting image, so you can in principle use AI to change the appearance of images so they more closely match images from lenses with better micro contrast and sensors with more resolution.
Works fine, until it doesn’t.
In C1, Structure and Clarity both increase the appearance of micro contrast (to my eyes). Like sharpening, the closer you look the worse the result looks. As long as you are viewing at a much smaller size than the system should be able to produce, you can’t see the artefacts. Like sharpening, noise can become a problem even in small sized images.
Interested in how it seems to others.
provided you view small enough or you are happy for AI to make up stuff that was never there, or both.
I'm still not sure what you think the difference is between adjusting and making it look better.
If you adjust appropriately you can make it look better.
Correct.For a RAW shooter, what you describe is "exposing correctly" or ETTR.
Thanks. I'm familiar with how a lens with good micro contrast plays out in an image. A good quality lens would be my preference over the reliance on software enhancement, but I can't downplay the usefulness of PP software for improving a photograph. That applies to photographs taken with good lenses too. Of course, it takes knowledge and skill to get good results regardless of the equipment. It's great to have a high quality lens but high quality post processing/editing can have a bigger impact on the final results; resolution competitions notwithstanding!Here are some examples:Yes.The lower performing your lens is, the harder that is to do.
With AI you can make a good looking image where there was no starting image. As we have seen recently, you can even win a competition if your use of AI is skilled enough. A lot of recent AI software can make an image look better by creating an image based on the one you took.
It’s like skilful use of sky replacement or artificial bokeh.
The final image looks as though the lens had good micro contrast.
Andrew
I happened to accidentally have the 40-150/2.8 and R with me one day, so took some test shots with identical settings. It was a rather dull scene but ideal for the purpose in terms of features.
Here is the scene
Crop with the Pro lens
Crop with the R lens
These images were processed from RAW using C1 with identical settings.
Crop with the R lens processed to suit
The second crop from the R lens had more contrast and some Clarity and Structure (micro-contrast). I might have added a bit of extra sharpening too.
That looks better, but still not quite as good as the Pro lens. Pushing the settings further made it look over processed. I played around quite a bit because Tedolf was on my case.
Although the Pro tele zoom is an excellent lens it has less micro contrast than the best primes and the OM1 is only 20Mpix. You could do a tiny bit better with a lot more expensive gear.
Here is an image with the R on an EM1 mk1.
Classic flat RAW with C1 default neutral settings
Adjusted tone curve, added sharpening, clarity and structure (and vertical) in C1
Processed in PhotoLab with DxO defauly inexpert user settings - ie not flat
Processed in PhotoLab with more aggressive settings
The EM1 mk i has noticeably worse IQ than the OM1, more than you would expect from the difference in sensor resolution.
On the day, the mast was incredibly crisp, so the weak outline is not due to haze. For me the image loses impact because the mast is not that crisp, although resolution is reasonable. You can see details but the contrast is low.
Would the OM1 and 40-150/2.8 have done better? In my view, yes.
Hope that was of interest.
No, just no!..................... It's great to have a high quality lens but high quality post processing/editing can have a bigger impact on the final results.................
Yes, just yes.No, just no!..................... It's great to have a high quality lens but high quality post processing/editing can have a bigger impact on the final results.................
High quality gear doesn't come bundled with talent and skill. That's separate from the IQ capabilities of gear.If that was indeed as you claim, then in 2023 there would be no IQ related reasons to prefer an ILC over a modern flagship phone for FL's under say 100mm/FF.
Don't believe everything the PP software industry claims. Consider that they sell PP licenses to phone camera users too, not only to ILC owners. Many of the novel features are aimed at them. There are almost a 100 times more phone photographers than ILC photographers, and THAT is where all the growth potential for PP software makers is. The smaller the lens and sensor, and the smaller the viewing screen, the more effective and useful the new a.i. PP tools like a.i. de-noise and a.i. sharpening and a.i. de-haze are. And vice versa.
With these software tools phones can catch up in IQ to ILC cameras, but only as long as the output format is very small. Of course ILC owners can use these tools too to widen the gap again - but each ILC owner has to decide for himself if the downsides are worth doing it. Me personally I am perfectly happy with resolution and noise of m43. If I was not, then I would rather switch to FF or MF, than accept those fake software enhancement artifacts.
I only buy a piece of gear once every 5 years or so, but this thread has convinced me to get this lens for my GM5 and GX9. Thanks all.I've owned this lens twice and have wanted to like it a whole lot more than I was ever able to. I think in part because the online community heaps praise on it so I thought I must be missing something. I rarely see a negative review and apart from people wondering about the lack of weather sealing for what is an expensive lens, it seems to tick a lot of boxes for people. Indeed It pairs well with my GM5.
And yet....damn, this lens is contrasty. In the end it was this more than anything else that decided against it for me. Can a lens design be considered to have too much contrast? I was curious to know if other users felt it had a particularly high degree of contrast built into the design.
Ah, this forum's highest calling, to tip folks over the edge into buying more gear! :-DI only buy a piece of gear once every 5 years or so, but this thread has convinced me to get this lens for my GM5 and GX9. Thanks all.


