primeshooter
Veteran Member
Have you tried just putting the box over the eyes (forget eye af mode for a minute). That is what I used to get a bit more consistent results with the z7ii.
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Nikon Z7II Eye Autofocus Woes. (Any help would be great)
- Thread starter rcooper102
- Start date
But I meant was using autofocus in single focus point and afs to manually select the eyes lock the focus at that and then recompose. That just never fails on my Zfc. I have one firm rule - I never allow my camera to choose what or where to focus on. It is relied on to do the focusing, but not the choice of what or where.
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No need to be continually amazed. The Z6/Z6II/Z7/Z7II all focus well, there is just some issue that the OP has that needs to be addressed. Whether that be his particular camera has a fault, or poor use of AF or not understanding how the AF can best be used. I have never had any issues as far as eye AF on people or animals. In contrast to your original statement, I'm continually amazed at how people have trouble with the AF when I do not.
In case you don't come up with solution to Eye AF problem; you might consider renting a Z7ii for several days of testing. Or beg and borrow from someone you know who has a Z7ii.
Having been thru similar, I sincerely hope you get Eye AF problem resolved.
True.
Going by my Z7ii, the AF system should repeatedly nail focus; in scene and setting you have described and shown, when using AF "Pin Point" on subject's eye (left/right). Any other AF mode else starts to be a gamble.
Leonard Shepherd
Forum Pro
+1.
I know about 20 other Nikon Users of a Z6 or Z7 - and none of us have eye AF (or other AF) problems.
Whether the issue is a problem with a camera or a problem with a camera user is difficult to determine via thread posts.
olyflyer
Forum Pro
With your setting you should not half press and wait, you should press the shutter release fully. The camera will not take the image unless the focus is confirmed, so waiting for the green square is pointless. Anyway, some lenses are not that great at f1.4. I have the Nikon 50/1.4G and that works fine, but I can't say anything about your lenses.I really am not 100% convinced its the camera, its just all evidence points towards the camera or adapter atm. I want it to be user error, that's so easy to fix.It would be easier to solve this if we were side by side, I bet you we would solve this in five minutes...Maybe if you'd list every setting of your camera it would help also to find out what you do differently.
Here is the exact process and settings use to capture the photo in the example:
- Camera is locked off onto a tripod, and I even used a remote shutter release to ensure zero vibration.
- The subject is lit by a 200w video light at full power in a 50" Octobox, positioned similar to a beauty dish just above the subject's head feathering across the face. There is another 150w video light in another big octobox to frame right at about 30% power slightly behind the mode to create the kicker sheen.
- The camera settings were as follows: 1/400th F1.4 ISO 100 (manual mode). AF was on AF-S in focus priority mode and human subject detection. IBIS was turned off. Viewfinder live preview was turned off.
- To shoot the shutter button on the remote was depressed until the focus box turns green over the subject's eye, and then the photo is taken. (Note I also tested without the remote shutter in case it was to blame, no change)
This was repeated about 100 times (give or take) and the miss rate was around 80% as mentioned. It doesn't always miss the same, sometimes its on the ear, sometimes its on an eyelash, other times it's the hair. Tbh the feeling to me is that the camera gets "close" and then that's determined to be "good enough" so wherever it actually happens to be focused when it reaches "close enough" ends up being in focus.
I really do appreciate your time and help.
You are right, we can't exclude the gear, but only Nikon can help you with that. I suggest you call them and ask for help. Your results are definitely not what I'd call acceptable.
Did you use the same lighting setup to do the calibration of you r lens you used to take the portret pictures ?
Suggestion : can you do the same experiment in good daylight ( maybe the AF algoritm is disturbed by the different (?) colortemperatures of the lights you use ? ).I really am not 100% convinced its the camera, its just all evidence points towards the camera or adapter atm. I want it to be user error, that's so easy to fix.It would be easier to solve this if we were side by side, I bet you we would solve this in five minutes...
Here is the exact process and settings use to capture the photo in the example:
- Camera is locked off onto a tripod, and I even used a remote shutter release to ensure zero vibration.
- The subject is lit by a 200w video light at full power in a 50" Octobox, positioned similar to a beauty dish just above the subject's head feathering across the face. There is another 150w video light in another big octobox to frame right at about 30% power slightly behind the mode to create the kicker sheen.
It does not hurt to wait for focus confirmation I suppose ?
I also own the Nikkor 50/1.4G, I can use it in AF-S , but in AF-C it is not so good ( slow focusing ). I bought the Nikkor Z 50mm f1.8 S, that works fine and has a very pleasing IQ , a great lens !
I agree.
Nikon service can check camera + FTZ !
And did you calibrate for the same distance you used in your portret picture ( Same setup and lighting , just replace human object with the fine tune chart ) ?
Again, one person’s success with something (eye AF in particular), does not negate another’s problems. I had a Z6, then a Z6ii (two samples) over a period of four years. In the most controlled set of circumstances, those bodies could not reliably nail focus in the eyes, except under the most favorable of conditions: the eye very large in the frame, and a lot of light.
Most distressing for me, and the reason I went back to my D750, was a family portrait session. Everyone was very stationary, with the Z6ii’s eye AF “confidently” predicting the focus point. Then, the pic. In reviewing the images afterwards the “keeper” turned out to have missed focus. Luckily, Topaz Sharpen AI was able to correct it. I know the “antibodies” here will kick in, but my bargain-basement Canon R50 is far more reliable in the eye AF department.
rcooper102
Well-known member
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Yup, I mounted the chart on a light stand so that it was at the same eye level in the exact same position under the same light.
Fullframer
Senior Member
For the family portrait, was the lens stopped down enough for the proper depth of field to get the faces/eyes in focus? I've done groups families and teams with my Z5 and it does a great job
My Z5 is very reliable. My Z9 near perfect. When using Z S lenses. you should have checked image there so you could re shoot if necessary But luckily you were able to fix it later
Gary Barnett
Senior Member
Try using Single or Dynamic AF point under AF-C, I found it to be pretty accurate in the low light indoor, even with my Z5!
davethebirder
Leading Member
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Over the years I've never heard you fault Nikon ....... ever!
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Suggestion , to check all possibilities : can you do the same experiment ( calibration and photoshoot with your model ) in good daylight instead of studiolights and reflector ?
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Greetings,
Marc
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olyflyer
Forum Pro
I am not the one having the problems...Did you use the same lighting setup to do the calibration of you r lens you used to take the portret pictures ?
Suggestion : can you do the same experiment in good daylight ( maybe the AF algoritm is disturbed by the different (?) colortemperatures of the lights you use ? ).I really am not 100% convinced its the camera, its just all evidence points towards the camera or adapter atm. I want it to be user error, that's so easy to fix.It would be easier to solve this if we were side by side, I bet you we would solve this in five minutes...
Here is the exact process and settings use to capture the photo in the example:
- Camera is locked off onto a tripod, and I even used a remote shutter release to ensure zero vibration.
- The subject is lit by a 200w video light at full power in a 50" Octobox, positioned similar to a beauty dish just above the subject's head feathering across the face. There is another 150w video light in another big octobox to frame right at about 30% power slightly behind the mode to create the kicker sheen.
It does not hurt to wait for focus confirmation I suppose ?
I also own the Nikkor 50/1.4G, I can use it in AF-S , but in AF-C it is not so good ( slow focusing ). I bought the Nikkor Z 50mm f1.8 S, that works fine and has a very pleasing IQ , a great lens !
I agree.
Nikon service can check camera + FTZ !
rcooper102
Well-known member
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None, thats just opened up in LR as a raw file
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