Why is the 35-100 f/2.8 not as popular as the 70/200 on FF?

Good for you for using your cameras in an intelligent way. At the rate they will last forever.

You're a bad customer, though. Consumers like you are bad for the :-(. :-D
 
I have wondered the same thing. It's hard to pin down the reason.

I have tried a 70-200 on FF, and it was built very solidly, like a blunt weapon. The Panasonic 35-100 feels much more flimsy to me, like I would almost be worried about it breaking just from being in my bag.
It sounds like you never owned the lens, so the opinion falls a bit short.
Other than build quality, every point I raised has been mentioned by others as well.
But you have to use the lens not think about it......
It has been gathering dust for a long time, and to check my memory I grabbed it just now. It's a mostly plastic construction, there looks to be plastic joints close to each other on the front part, and an edge sticking out of the front plastic component.

It seems almost designed to slide against some other piece of equipment, which gets caught on that edge and knocks it from below. The front element appears housed by that part, so the smallest misalignment would be transferred to the front element.
Irrelevant theory. I've used it in the mountains for 8 years and none of this stuff matters an iota.
5480b52693e946c9b3fe3b475aa99c71.jpg.png

The question here is why a lens like the very metal-heavy 70-200 L is more popular than the 35-100.
What brand are you talking about with a 70-200? What are the sales of that brand of camera? I think you are trying to cover your tracks to present your theory.
I'll moderate "just from being in my bag", to "just from being in my bag with other equipment and being carried around and jostled in a normal way". I'm not worried about it, but almost. I certainly don't feel safe that it would take a beating, unlike most 70-200s.
I wouldn't use the 35-100 as a hammer, but as a camera lens it is just fine, in fact, it is one of several of my lenses that are excellent. and it weighs just 357 G, mine is 330g.
 
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I'll point out that without a reference to show "more popular / less popular" there's no basis to understand that comparison, much less believe that such a trend exists.

For me personally, the tradeoffs for the alternatives are different in M43, and more attractive.

1) Most standard zooms and promes have coverage to the 25-50 range at the long end, so I don't need the duplication.

2) The pany 100-300 provides a huuuuge reach advantage in a very resonably sized package

3) The 45-150 oly is incredibly inexpensive while providing decent IQ

4) The compact 35-100 from pany is a brilliant travel zoom, at the sacrifice of some exposure and IQ.

5) the oly 40-150 pro provides slightly better IQ and more reach for more bulk.

6) the oly 12-100 is a very good 1-lens solution.

7) the oly 90 mm pro is a macro lens.

And if subject isolation is critical to the photo, I will use post-processing to get exactly what I want.
 
And if subject isolation is critical to the photo, I will use post-processing to get exactly what I want.
I've read this twice now, but are people throwing blurred layers on things and getting satisfactory results? Everything I've seen from software looks really artificial. Or are you referring to other post processing techniques?
 
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I'll point out that without a reference to show "more popular / less popular" there's no basis to understand that comparison, much less believe that such a trend exists.

For me personally, the tradeoffs for the alternatives are different in M43, and more attractive.

1) Most standard zooms and promes have coverage to the 25-50 range at the long end, so I don't need the duplication.

2) The pany 100-300 provides a huuuuge reach advantage in a very resonably sized package

3) The 45-150 oly is incredibly inexpensive while providing decent IQ

4) The compact 35-100 from pany is a brilliant travel zoom, at the sacrifice of some exposure and IQ.

5) the oly 40-150 pro provides slightly better IQ and more reach for more bulk.

6) the oly 12-100 is a very good 1-lens solution.

7) the oly 90 mm pro is a macro lens.

And if subject isolation is critical to the photo, I will use post-processing to get exactly what I want.
I have the 35-100 kit, the 40-150 R “plastic fantastic”, and the 40-150/2.8. All have their place. Adding the 35-100/2.8 would be overkill. It was a serious option, but the 40-150/2.8 won out. I thought it would be too heavy, but holding used copies of the 35-100 and 40-150 f2.8s persuaded me. The Olympus is optimised at 150mm and frankly a bit weaker at 40mm, just as the 12-40/2.8 is optimised at 12mm. The Panasonic is optimised at 35mm.

The 40-150 R has slightly better contrast than the 35-100 kit, but the Panasonic is tiny.

The 40-150/2.8 gives pretty shallow DoF and close focus at 150mm. I’ve never wanted shallower at what it would cost to add that to my FF kit.

The Sony FE ecosystem has a similar number of native mount lenses as MFT, more if you count cine lenses in both system. In FE land, you also find alternatives to 70-200/2.8. For example the Tamron 35-150/2-2.8 is designed as an event lens.

Andrew

--
Infinite are the arguments of mages. Truth is a jewel with many facets. Ursula K LeGuin
Please feel free to edit any images that I post
 
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Hello

As a newbie M4/3 user and longtime Canon user.. surprised to see that the 35-100 f/2.8 not as popular as the 70/200 on FF..

Is this because Panasonic is these days not too clear on FF vs M4/3.. and that Olympus does not have this focal range zoom..

Or is this because 35-100 f/2.8 is not providing enough subject separation and people prefer the much smaller 35-100 f/4 - f/5.6 supplemented by a fast prime ?!!

Tempted by a very good condition 35-100 f/2
.8 Mk ii at a very good price .. Talk me out of it as I am seriously considering it..

Thx 🙏

Gaul
I think it's because the Olympus 40-150 f/2.8 and Olympus 12-100 f/4 exist.
this is partly the reason for myself as I own(ed) both. Sold the 40-150 after getting the 12-100. The other part is that both of these lenses can focus closed than the 35-100 making it a better closeup lens. Jordan and Chris did a video comparison of the 35-100 vs 40-150 when they worked at the Camera Store - see video
 
and like others pointed out theres better alternatives with better reach.

for pros a 35-100f1.4 would be popular i guess, but it will never exist.

who needs 70mm f5.6 when your 50mm f3.5 equiv gives you more separation, so reach is obviously more important (hence 300mm equiv)
I understand what you're saying, but for many of us it's just not important. People are just as often looking for more depth of field as for less.

If I do need more separation I can easily get it in processing, with more control and more options.
I'm yet to see any PP software which can do a gradual background blur (more blur for more distant objects) while also effectively and cleanly identifying the intended foreground subject without leaving some fuzzy edges or sharp background close to the subject.
PC, ON1 - AI subject recogntion (mask concealing the object) mingled with gradual/reflected gradual option for blurring the rest of scene. Fully adjustable + controllable hi-end lensblur.
 
35-100/2.8 was the first "serious" system tele zoom--weathersealed, constant aperture as shared by the 12-35--and was priced accordingly, as it was released at $1400. I pondered one but was put off by the poor 100mm performance wide open, the FL I would have used most often. Got by with the kit 40-150 and adapted 4/3 teles until the 40-150/2.8 came along. It remains a kit staple even today, with plenty of options now offered to us.

Cheers,

Rick
 
and like others pointed out theres better alternatives with better reach.

for pros a 35-100f1.4 would be popular i guess, but it will never exist.

who needs 70mm f5.6 when your 50mm f3.5 equiv gives you more separation, so reach is obviously more important (hence 300mm equiv)
I understand what you're saying, but for many of us it's just not important. People are just as often looking for more depth of field as for less. If I do need more separation I can easily get it in processing, with more control and more options.

Gato
whats your explanaition for the seemingly unpopular 35-100f2.8 then?
I'm not sure anyone has established the 35-100 is unpopular. At least relative to the number of m43 cameras sold.

As I said in another post, m43 users have a lot of choices. The Olympus 40-150 f2.8 is one choice with more reach and some say better image quality. The Oly 12-100 f4 is another option -- I sold my 12-35 and 35-100 to buy the 12-100.
70-200f2.8 are mighty popular, 70-200f4 less, 70-200f5.6 equiv not.

Seems logical to me, that DoF is the reason.
DoF is a reason for some, but I think low light is a more common reason. And I expect far more 5.6 lenses are sold than 2.8.
70-200f2.8 is a very common wedding/event portrait lens. Maybe 70-200f5.6 equiv just doesnt cut it?
Wedding and event photographers are often working in low light where they need all the advantage they can get. So yes, 5.6 doesn't cut it, but more for low light capabilities than shallow depth of field.

I'm not saying subject isolation is not important, just that it is not important to everyone.
 
And if subject isolation is critical to the photo, I will use post-processing to get exactly what I want.
I've read this twice now, but are people throwing blurred layers on things and getting satisfactory results? Everything I've seen from software looks really artificial. Or are you referring to other post processing techniques?
It is not complicated, AI masking for background (not the dog) fully controllable as for distance, gradient disappearing, DOF start/stop, optical quality, aperture sides, curvature, blooming etc. ON1 - roughly 30 secs incl. denoising and sharpening.



30aad08c867a4e39bac2936636ecd2b2.jpg



--
Vlad
 
And if subject isolation is critical to the photo, I will use post-processing to get exactly what I want.
I've read this twice now, but are people throwing blurred layers on things and getting satisfactory results? Everything I've seen from software looks really artificial. Or are you referring to other post processing techniques?
It is not complicated, AI masking for background (not the dog) fully controllable as for distance, gradient disappearing, DOF start/stop, optical quality, aperture sides, curvature, blooming etc. ON1 - roughly 30 secs incl. denoising and sharpening.

30aad08c867a4e39bac2936636ecd2b2.jpg

--
Vlad
Interesting. Hard for me to tell due to viewing on my phone, but it looks like a really abrupt transition.
 
And if subject isolation is critical to the photo, I will use post-processing to get exactly what I want.
I've read this twice now, but are people throwing blurred layers on things and getting satisfactory results? Everything I've seen from software looks really artificial. Or are you referring to other post processing techniques?
It is not complicated, AI masking for background (not the dog) fully controllable as for distance, gradient disappearing, DOF start/stop, optical quality, aperture sides, curvature, blooming etc. ON1 - roughly 30 secs incl. denoising and sharpening.

30aad08c867a4e39bac2936636ecd2b2.jpg
Interesting. Hard for me to tell due to viewing on my phone, but it looks like a really abrupt transition.
Both images are blurred with nothing sharp. Look at the image resolution.

I prefer DoF control by lenses.



531c0f76625c40a7a13fb5035453231f.jpg



c20225765d3c477dbf1cd725de48f57a.jpg



ac56a67c767940cc8ae46cb8ab55829a.jpg



adfbe422497e41a4bd08cc67687a317c.jpg

The key is focus fall off, not pasting a sharp cutout on a blurred background.

Andrew

--
Infinite are the arguments of mages. Truth is a jewel with many facets. Ursula K LeGuin
Please feel free to edit any images that I post
 
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And if subject isolation is critical to the photo, I will use post-processing to get exactly what I want.
I've read this twice now, but are people throwing blurred layers on things and getting satisfactory results? Everything I've seen from software looks really artificial. Or are you referring to other post processing techniques?
It is not complicated, AI masking for background (not the dog) fully controllable as for distance, gradient disappearing, DOF start/stop, optical quality, aperture sides, curvature, blooming etc. ON1 - roughly 30 secs incl. denoising and sharpening.
Interesting. Hard for me to tell due to viewing on my phone, but it looks like a really abrupt transition.
Both images are blurred with nothing sharp. Look at the image resolution.

I prefer DoF control by lenses.

531c0f76625c40a7a13fb5035453231f.jpg

c20225765d3c477dbf1cd725de48f57a.jpg

ac56a67c767940cc8ae46cb8ab55829a.jpg

adfbe422497e41a4bd08cc67687a317c.jpg

The key is focus fall off, not pasting a sharp cutout on a blurred background.

Andrew
Andrew - depends on preferences - your #1 is easy - it is flat foreground and flat background, nothing in-between. All that matter is how much do you want the background to be blurred - this can be easily be defined in POST.

#3/4 - have nice fluent gradual blur, but would much prefer smoother blurring in highlights, less of harshness. However what the lens gives is what you get.

Finally when talking about Main object blurred differently than background blur. Again it is not a particular problem - just one step more. Nevertheless forget about cheapo cut-out and past solutions. Everything must be blended seamlessly.

Here again examples in higher resolution:



4937d3d01e334e17b55713bfb622eeff.jpg



c39eb24a491d46eaa82326c7a29de892.jpg

I am not talking of replacing Optical DOF with POSTblur technique. Just saying - it is doable (no comparison to phones) and sometimes inevitable with lenses aka O 40-150/2,8 if you do not want to leave the shot half-baked - i.e. prefectly sharp with nervous background.

--
Vlad
 
And if subject isolation is critical to the photo, I will use post-processing to get exactly what I want.
I've read this twice now, but are people throwing blurred layers on things and getting satisfactory results? Everything I've seen from software looks really artificial. Or are you referring to other post processing techniques?
It is not complicated, AI masking for background (not the dog) fully controllable as for distance, gradient disappearing, DOF start/stop, optical quality, aperture sides, curvature, blooming etc. ON1 - roughly 30 secs incl. denoising and sharpening.
Interesting. Hard for me to tell due to viewing on my phone, but it looks like a really abrupt transition.
Both images are blurred with nothing sharp. Look at the image resolution.

I prefer DoF control by lenses.

531c0f76625c40a7a13fb5035453231f.jpg

c20225765d3c477dbf1cd725de48f57a.jpg

ac56a67c767940cc8ae46cb8ab55829a.jpg

adfbe422497e41a4bd08cc67687a317c.jpg

The key is focus fall off, not pasting a sharp cutout on a blurred background.

Andrew
Andrew - depends on preferences - your #1 is easy - it is flat foreground and flat background, nothing in-between. All that matter is how much do you want the background to be blurred - this can be easily be defined in POST.

#3/4 - have nice fluent gradual blur, but would much prefer smoother blurring in highlights, less of harshness. However what the lens gives is what you get.

Finally when talking about Main object blurred differently than background blur. Again it is not a particular problem - just one step more. Nevertheless forget about cheapo cut-out and past solutions. Everything must be blended seamlessly.

Here again examples in higher resolution:

4937d3d01e334e17b55713bfb622eeff.jpg

c39eb24a491d46eaa82326c7a29de892.jpg

I am not talking of replacing Optical DOF with POSTblur technique. Just saying - it is doable (no comparison to phones) and sometimes inevitable with lenses aka O 40-150/2,8 if you do not want to leave the shot half-baked - i.e. prefectly sharp with nervous background.
Looking at the EXIFs, you had a fair bit of DoF control already. I can see you got more by processing. The overall effect is both impressive and weird.

Thanks for sharing.

Andrew

--
Infinite are the arguments of mages. Truth is a jewel with many facets. Ursula K LeGuin
Please feel free to edit any images that I post
 
Hmmm. I own the 35-100 f2.8 and carry it with me most of the time. In my case, it was a decision to reduce weight & size from my Oly 4/3 35-100 f2.0. The latter is a better lens and I still use if for some situations, but the PL version is a decent replacement. Unlike many others, the 40-150 f2.8 has never appealed to me because that focal range is less useful to me. I have the PL 50-200 f2.8-4 that I find better for what I do. The Oly 12-100 f4 also doesn't appeal as I don't mind changing lenses and I prefer the faster 12-35 and 35-100 combo.
 
Good for you for using your cameras in an intelligent way. At the rate they will last forever.
The trouble is that I won't last forever. :-(
You're a bad customer, though. Consumers like you are bad for the :-(. :-D
I do buy lenses though, but seemingly more from Panasonic.

If Olympus/OM make something that I like then I will consider it. The body must have a tilt screen and be EVFless as I never use them. It also must have MySets/Custom modes, the "E-P7" is close but no Custom modes kills it for me. That thing really is an E-PL11, not an E-P7.

But OM is busy courting the high end as a birding/wildlife/adventure camera maker, we plebs (speaking for myself) who just want to wander around and take photos of things we see are being ignored.
 
and like others pointed out theres better alternatives with better reach.

for pros a 35-100f1.4 would be popular i guess, but it will never exist.

who needs 70mm f5.6 when your 50mm f3.5 equiv gives you more separation, so reach is obviously more important (hence 300mm equiv)
I understand what you're saying, but for many of us it's just not important. People are just as often looking for more depth of field as for less.

If I do need more separation I can easily get it in processing, with more control and more options.
I'm yet to see any PP software which can do a gradual background blur (more blur for more distant objects) while also effectively and cleanly identifying the intended foreground subject without leaving some fuzzy edges or sharp background close to the subject.
PC, ON1 - AI subject recogntion (mask concealing the object) mingled with gradual/reflected gradual option for blurring the rest of scene. Fully adjustable + controllable hi-end lensblur.
but does it also blur everything non-subject to the sides of and at the same distance as the subject ?

can you give me a sample shot with lots of foreground and background at different distances

Peter
 
They probably have to sell the more expensive cams to stay in business. Pen-F could work. Ignore the EVF. It won't get in your way. Panny makes a nice GX85. Same format and sensor.
 
Nobody mentioned the 14-150. It's sharp at the short end to at least 40mm, not so much at the long end but not bad. I can't give it up because it sometimes saves me when I don't have time to change lenses and when I don't need the sharpest possible lens at 150mm. It's pretty sharp at 75mm so it's close enough to a 35-100 for most things where you don't need f/2.8 I bet. For travel and some indoor work in bright areas, I found it indispensable. And it's weather sealed and not too expensive. It's small and light enough to be comfortable on the EM5.3 without a grip. It's a nice, small, easy handling 14-150.

--
Author of "The Pelican Squadron" - Harvey Gene Sherman
https://www.amazon.com/Pelican-Squadron-Tale-Internet-Bubble-ebook/dp/B08FCY6V7Y
 
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They probably have to sell the more expensive cams to stay in business.
Yes, the retreat has been to the high end, less sales, bigger $$$, more profit per unit. The high end is more likely to also buy high end lenses, where the real money seems to be.
Pen-F could work.
Ick, clunky design compared to the smooth and neat E-P5.

They got everything just right with the E-P5, nothing before or since has worked better for me.

Pen-F has no tilt screen, just that awkward flip out sideways thing = not for me.
Ignore the EVF. It won't get in your way. Panny makes a nice GX85. Same format and sensor.
I successfully ignore the EVF on my Sony RX100M6, only popped it up a few times during the warranty period to see if still working. Stays down permanently since then.

Meanwhile the E-P5 still works and the raw files plus DxO Photolab still keeps me happy. No need to even look at anything else. But if I do get back to Japan one day I will visit MAP Camera and browse their used E-P7 list to see if that's a worthwhile backup to the E-P5 despite the lack of MySets/Custom modes.
 

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