stillviking
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Thanks about this, I would use it to photograph water on lakes and waterfalls mainly, although for sure the scene has sky, this can be a problem?
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It's a selling point and it allows me people to mount their polarising filters on top of their lens protection filters without having to remove and store filters.Normally I shoot vertical, so is it good in this case?
I was wondering many circular polarization filters manufacturers specifically produce filters with an extrathin frame, to reduce vignetting at wide angle (and more expensive too). Why would they do that, if using a polarizing filter with a wide angle results in a blob or unequal sky color?
No, it's the angle to the glass you worry about. When light polarised in random directions hits the transparent surface of water/air or glass/air, its polarisation is resolved (to an amount depending of the angle of incidence) into directions parallel to and at right angles to the surface. One direction is refracted into the glass/water, the other is reflected and that's why those reflections are polarised and can be filtered out. The sky is polarised in the direction of the sun, and the position of the sun in the sky does change, depending on which way you're facing and the time of day.Even to avoid glass / water reflections I need to be 90º to sun?
While I have expensive CPL filters, there was a test a few years ago that showed no detectable image quality differences from cheap to expensive. Those mounted in brass (rare) are less likely to bind.Hello,
Looking for the best (that does not worsen the image quality of lens!) polarizing filter to buy for my Canon RF 15-35 2.8. I'm out for market for some years, so, can you please help me what's best brand/model nowadays?
Thank you so much!
And for some reason (if you know, pls chime in), polarizers are even worse with digital sensors compared to film.Are you sure you want to use a polarizer with that lens? CPLs won't polarize uniformly across the FoV of an ultrawide. Could be fine at 35mm, but probably unacceptable at much below about 24mm.
As for brands, the ones named are all good. I have some excellent Hoya CPLs, but the high transmission ones I have apparently aren't made anymore.
Just to add to this: don't stack variable ND filters with circular polarizers. if you use an ND filter with a CP, make sure it's a fixed value ND.- if Ii want to combine them with a special effects filter (like a Neutral Density (ND) filter), I use the polarizer as the outermost filter.
Digital sensors require a “circular” polarizer. For film linear polarizers work just as well .And for some reason (if you know, pls chime in), polarizers are even worse with digital sensors compared to film.Are you sure you want to use a polarizer with that lens? CPLs won't polarize uniformly across the FoV of an ultrawide. Could be fine at 35mm, but probably unacceptable at much below about 24mm.
As for brands, the ones named are all good. I have some excellent Hoya CPLs, but the high transmission ones I have apparently aren't made anymore.
With my 24 Nikkor and reversal film sometimes I used to get away with lack of uniformity.
With digital is about to impossible. Possibly from 28mm on.
Nowadays, I almost consistently spare the use of polarizers. I easily do it in PS.
But if you want less reflections and more intense color, one can do a composite frame. I know, a small pita.
But hey! .....
Digital sensors require a “circular” polarizer. For film linear polarizers work just as well .And for some reason (if you know, pls chime in), polarizers are even worse with digital sensors compared to film.Are you sure you want to use a polarizer with that lens? CPLs won't polarize uniformly across the FoV of an ultrawide. Could be fine at 35mm, but probably unacceptable at much below about 24mm.
As for brands, the ones named are all good. I have some excellent Hoya CPLs, but the high transmission ones I have apparently aren't made anymore.
With my 24 Nikkor and reversal film sometimes I used to get away with lack of uniformity.
With digital is about to impossible. Possibly from 28mm on.
Nowadays, I almost consistently spare the use of polarizers. I easily do it in PS.
But if you want less reflections and more intense color, one can do a composite frame. I know, a small pita.
But hey! .....
I am not an authoritative source on the topic, but I happen to own an old liner polarizer. It works fine on my R5 (likely R7 too for same reason). I don't run into any odd metering or focusing issues at any orientationI have not tested to see if the autofocus system in mirrorless cameras require a circular polarizer. If you know of an authoritative source that has tested both types of polarizers with MILCs I’d be interested to see it.
Exactly as with tires for cars. Michelin makes some of the best tires but also some crappy ones. Same with Bridgestone.I would be careful shopping for filters by brand name alone. Many/most of the sellers of filters sell different grades/lines of filters and some of the best known sellers sell some mediocre or even poor quality filters in their "economy" lines.
There are some videos available where people have actually tested various filters. I would consider those tests as better info than brand name alone.