Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 20mm f4 to MFT

Tinroof

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I have noticed that prices for the Carl Zeiss Flektogon 20mm f4 are cheaper in Exakta mount vs M42. Will the Exakta mount do OK, on my MFT (G85) camera with appropriate the adapter? (Like Fotodiox Exakta to MFT). Thanks


www.tinroofvideo.com
kevinballing.smugmug.com
 
I have noticed that prices for the Carl Zeiss Flektogon 20mm f4 are cheaper in Exakta mount vs M42. Will the Exakta mount do OK, on my MFT (G85) camera with appropriate the adapter? (Like Fotodiox Exakta to MFT). Thanks

www.tinroofvideo.com
kevinballing.smugmug.com
Optically yes, they are same.
 
I have noticed that prices for the Carl Zeiss Flektogon 20mm f4 are cheaper in Exakta mount vs M42. Will the Exakta mount do OK, on my MFT (G85) camera with appropriate the adapter? (Like Fotodiox Exakta to MFT). Thanks

www.tinroofvideo.com
kevinballing.smugmug.com
I suspect the Exakta mount lenses are a bit more affordable than the M42 mount counterparts, mainly do to the slightly shorter flange distance of the Exakta mount. The M42 mount lenses can be adapted to more camera bodies, including the popular Canon DSLRs.
 
I know nothing about that lens but have used Exakta to m4/3 (and Exa to FX and Exa to NEX and Exa to L) adapters, from several sources, to mount Topcor RE lenses. I prefer the K&F Concept adapters among the mid-priced ones. One issue I have run into with the cheapest adapters is this: when rotating the lens on the adapter, the locking lever on the adapter should just drop over a pin on the lens. But sometimes it doesn’t quite reach to do that, being off very slightly, and the lens doesn’t get locked in place. The locking lever is like a hook that drops over the pin. I take a very small drill bit that enlarges the gap on the lock lever a hair, work it by hand to open the gap a tiny bit, enough to allow the thing to slip over the pin on the lens. Have only had that issue with the cheapest ones. Otherwise, “Exakta” mount lenses work just fine on m4/3…but again, I have only used Topcors.
 
I have noticed that prices for the Carl Zeiss Flektogon 20mm f4 are cheaper in Exakta mount vs M42. Will the Exakta mount do OK, on my MFT (G85) camera with appropriate the adapter? (Like Fotodiox Exakta to MFT). Thanks

www.tinroofvideo.com
kevinballing.smugmug.com
You have been getting good advice from others - I really like that lens and I have one in M42 mount that I will never part with :)

The MIR-20 20/3.5 is physically larger but also a great lens made in the same pattern. I have one of those as well and it is not left behind. But you might have trouble finding one at an acceptable price either. Last time I looked the MIR-20 was also quite expensive.

My main objection to the Exakta mount is that they are pretty early days mount systems with much of their bits exposed like 'old tractors' we might say. But they work well enough although they look ugly to my personal eyes. Others simply don't care as much about their looks as I do.
 
I have noticed that prices for the Carl Zeiss Flektogon 20mm f4 are cheaper in Exakta mount vs M42. Will the Exakta mount do OK, on my MFT (G85) camera with appropriate the adapter? (Like Fotodiox Exakta to MFT). Thanks
The Exakta mount has an external aperture stop-down button that can end-up in an unfortunate position when adapted. I don't know if it mechanically interferes on the G85, but I doubt it.
... The MIR-20 20/3.5 is physically larger but also a great lens made in the same pattern. I have one of those as well and it is not left behind. But you might have trouble finding one at an acceptable price either. Last time I looked the MIR-20 was also quite expensive.
Yeah, the MIR-20 pricing has gone nuts lately, with M42 versions running $300-$400. The Kiev 10/15 mount version, which is smaller than most, used to be easy to find for less than $50, but even that's over $130 now, and often $250 or more. BTW, the Kiev 10/15 mount is quite problematic to adapt because the aperture control is completely internal, but I've designed 3D-printable adapters such as Kiev 10/15 Lens To Canon FL/FD/FDn Body Adapter that work.

The key thing to understand here is that 20mm used to be a very tough optical problem, and old 20mm lenses designed for FF are NOT optically great. Truth is, lots of modern APS-C kit zooms are at least comparable on APS-C or MFT. On FF, the MIR-20 shows dark corners with focus at infinity. There's also a lot of field curvature, and barrel distortion, and corners get mushy too. That said, I do think the old 20mm lenses (including the huge auto Vivitar 20mm f/3.8) can be fun to use, but that's mostly because of focusing very close allowing interesting perspectives.

Here's a (heavily compressed, but full 42MP resolution) JPEG from my A7RII using the Kiev 10/15 MIR-20 at minimum focus distance:

MIR-20 20mm f/3.5 on A7RII
MIR-20 20mm f/3.5 on A7RII

As you can see, it's plenty sharp in the center... but so are modern kit zooms. ;-)

My advice for adapting wide lenses to APS-C and MFT is to use a focal reducer with a less-extreme wide lens. Those lenses tend to be cheaper, better optically, and smaller, and the focal reducer means they get brighter too.
 
I like it because you can park a GM5 with one of these lenses object lens down .... quite safely.

I have used them as copy lenses as much as anything else and have not noticed any issues with this. But hen there are probably a lot of things that I don't notice ... :)
 
Thanks to all of you who are smarter than me on this topic. Great advice. My preference would be to find a CZJ 20mm f4 with M42, but I see one with Exakta that is "reasonable". I have lots of M42 lenses and adapters, so it would be easier to stick with the screw mount, but I would get an Exakta mount if it would work without hassle on MFT. I use dumb adapters, and once I get an adapter on a lens, it stays there. Any fiddling with the Exakta would be a one-time effort.

I understand all of the downsides to wide vintage lenses, but really, for me, soft corners are almost irrelevant. The close focus ability, and look of the CZJ 20mm is what I am after. If I want a wide "landscape" lens, I will go native MFT.

Again, thanks to all of you who have responded to my inquiry. I hope that we all end up in some online spot where this can continue. What a treasure we have here.


www.tinroofvideo.com
kevinballing.smugmug.com
 
Thanks to all of you who are smarter than me on this topic. Great advice. My preference would be to find a CZJ 20mm f4 with M42, but I see one with Exakta that is "reasonable". I have lots of M42 lenses and adapters, so it would be easier to stick with the screw mount, but I would get an Exakta mount if it would work without hassle on MFT. I use dumb adapters, and once I get an adapter on a lens, it stays there. Any fiddling with the Exakta would be a one-time effort.
Exakta mount isn't particularly "fiddly," it's a pretty straightforward bayonet design. The odd thing is the stop-down button sticking out from this lens (not all Exakta mount lenses have that; for example, RE Topcors don't). Some see it as awkward while others say it's a feature... and they're both right. ;-)
I understand all of the downsides to wide vintage lenses, but really, for me, soft corners are almost irrelevant. The close focus ability, and look of the CZJ 20mm is what I am after. If I want a wide "landscape" lens, I will go native MFT.
The CZJ 20mm f/4 is a famous lens and, as long as you're going in with reasonable expectations, it's a good purchase despite being pricey. On MFT, it is basically a large, slow, close-focusing, shortish-normal lens (40mm equiv. is NOT wide) with good colors. If you should decide that's not what you want and are not moving up to a larger sensor or use of a focal reducer, you probably wouldn't lose money reselling it, so the risk is fairly low...

In sum, enjoy shooting with it and let us know how it went. :-)
 
Now that is interesting. It certainly provides another option to think about, as long as this adapter doesn't mess with the lens' distance from sensor, and alter infinity focus, etc. It doesn't look like it would, but one never knows. Thanks for this.

www.tinroofvideo.com
kevinballing.smugmug.com
Well, there is a slight flange distance difference, infinity and MFD might be affected, but it very much depends on the lens (most have some infinity tolerance for temperature compensation) and adapter M42 to your camera mount. I am using similar (brass made) ring for Domiron EXA when I want to put it on the macro helicoid, and I can achieve infinity around its mark on the barrel.

I don’t have Flektogon 20/4 in EXAkta mount, and I use Sony FF, so I can’t check it for you, but it’s cheap enough to try it.

OTOH I find EXA mount sometimes better than M42 , which tends to release, if the focus ring is a bit stiffer.
 
Thanks to all of you who are smarter than me on this topic. Great advice. My preference would be to find a CZJ 20mm f4 with M42, but I see one with Exakta that is "reasonable". I have lots of M42 lenses and adapters, so it would be easier to stick with the screw mount, but I would get an Exakta mount if it would work without hassle on MFT. I use dumb adapters, and once I get an adapter on a lens, it stays there. Any fiddling with the Exakta would be a one-time effort.

I understand all of the downsides to wide vintage lenses, but really, for me, soft corners are almost irrelevant. The close focus ability, and look of the CZJ 20mm is what I am after. If I want a wide "landscape" lens, I will go native MFT.

Again, thanks to all of you who have responded to my inquiry. I hope that we all end up in some online spot where this can continue. What a treasure we have here.

www.tinroofvideo.com
kevinballing.smugmug.com
Kevin,

I think that you would be well served by a good Exakta to M4/3 adapter. My comments about the Exakta mount being more 'tractor like' were more aesthetic ones than practical issues.

Furthermore, like you, I have tried to keep the number of adapter types limited and mine are better represented by M42. But I do have a few Exakta adapters for when there was no other choice but to buy Exakta.

Not sure if there are any focal reduction adapters made for Exakta - never looked but I could not see 'why not'. Not an issue if FR is not on the table.

Where our mob here go after dpreview is not readily known - probably to scatter over a number of other sites.

But the two main contenders for 'replacement' of dpreview seem to be dprevived and dprforum.com. I have chosen the latter but try both and see what suits you.

--
Tom Caldwell
 
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Thanks to all of you who are smarter than me on this topic. Great advice. My preference would be to find a CZJ 20mm f4 with M42, but I see one with Exakta that is "reasonable". I have lots of M42 lenses and adapters, so it would be easier to stick with the screw mount, but I would get an Exakta mount if it would work without hassle on MFT. I use dumb adapters, and once I get an adapter on a lens, it stays there. Any fiddling with the Exakta would be a one-time effort.
Exakta mount isn't particularly "fiddly," it's a pretty straightforward bayonet design. The odd thing is the stop-down button sticking out from this lens (not all Exakta mount lenses have that; for example, RE Topcors don't). Some see it as awkward while others say it's a feature... and they're both right. ;-)
I understand all of the downsides to wide vintage lenses, but really, for me, soft corners are almost irrelevant. The close focus ability, and look of the CZJ 20mm is what I am after. If I want a wide "landscape" lens, I will go native MFT.
The CZJ 20mm f/4 is a famous lens and, as long as you're going in with reasonable expectations, it's a good purchase despite being pricey. On MFT, it is basically a large, slow, close-focusing, shortish-normal lens (40mm equiv. is NOT wide) with good colors. If you should decide that's not what you want and are not moving up to a larger sensor or use of a focal reducer, you probably wouldn't lose money reselling it, so the risk is fairly low...
I have FF and M4/3 sensor camera body kits and apart from the physical and technical side of the the sensors I don't regard myself as moving up to a larger sensor size. ... :)

M4/3 is actually a quite useful sensor size.

In fact on M4/3 forum we often hear praise for the Sony RX100 and the quality of its 1" sensor images.
In sum, enjoy shooting with it and let us know how it went. :-)
Myself also ....
 
Now that is interesting. It certainly provides another option to think about, as long as this adapter doesn't mess with the lens' distance from sensor, and alter infinity focus, etc. It doesn't look like it would, but one never knows. Thanks for this.

www.tinroofvideo.com
kevinballing.smugmug.com
Well, there is a slight flange distance difference, infinity and MFD might be affected, but it very much depends on the lens (most have some infinity tolerance for temperature compensation) and adapter M42 to your camera mount. I am using similar (brass made) ring for Domiron EXA when I want to put it on the macro helicoid, and I can achieve infinity around its mark on the barrel.

I don’t have Flektogon 20/4 in EXAkta mount, and I use Sony FF, so I can’t check it for you, but it’s cheap enough to try it.

OTOH I find EXA mount sometimes better than M42 , which tends to release, if the focus ring is a bit stiffer.
Yes I agree but there is 'oh so many' choices with M42 and once it was a sort of inter-brand common mount not suffering from brand-mount restrictions.

Lots of interesting lenses were made in both M42 and Exakta mount versions.

The bayonet mount type also always has correct lens orientation registration.
 
The CZJ 20mm f/4 is a famous lens and, as long as you're going in with reasonable expectations, it's a good purchase despite being pricey. On MFT, it is basically a large, slow, close-focusing, shortish-normal lens (40mm equiv. is NOT wide) with good colors. If you should decide that's not what you want and are not moving up to a larger sensor or use of a focal reducer, you probably wouldn't lose money reselling it, so the risk is fairly low...
I have FF and M4/3 sensor camera body kits and apart from the physical and technical side of the the sensors I don't regard myself as moving up to a larger sensor size. ... :)

M4/3 is actually a quite useful sensor size.
Never said it wasn't... but it's a bad choice if you want high-resolution or wide-angle views from old glass. It's less of a problem with a focal reducer, but you're still throwing away lots of resolution and view angle.

Suppose you have a lens that delivers about 24MP resolution to its designed 36x24 film plane, which is a reasonable number for good old lenses. Here's what you can expect from cropping:
  • FF: 24MP
  • APS-C + focal reducer: 20MP
  • APS-C: 10MP
  • Canon "APS-C": 9MP
  • MFT + focal reducer: 12MP
  • MFT: 6MP
  • 1": 3MP
You'll often hear people talk about the "center sweet spot" and lenses do in fact resolve better on axis than off axis, but this typically doesn't change the math very much because most good lenses have fairly even fields until you get to the corners. There is also some degradation from sensor stack thickness, and MFT unfortunately went with a 4mm cover glass -- more than twice as thick as is typical for APS-C or FF. Fortunately, a well-designed focal reducer can correct that. That means MFT + focal reducer could out-resolve bare APS-C. It also means that APS-C + focal reducer is even more competitive with FF than it sounds because the resulting 10% crop is pretty much taking out only the often vignetted and soft corners.

Note that having sensors with higher resolution doesn't increase the delivered resolution, but does decrease artifacts. 20MP MFT images tend to be very clean in that sense...
In fact on M4/3 forum we often hear praise for the Sony RX100 and the quality of its 1" sensor images.
Of course, lenses designed explicitly for a smaller sensor can do better -- which is why the Sony RX100 series gets praise while the comparably good 1" sensor in the Nikon 1 cameras was never taken seriously for using adapted lenses. This is also why the DPReview test scene looks pretty good for the smaller-sensor cameras: the test scene is shot with the best-resolving lens DPReview could find.

At this point, I also need to remind any reader that 135 film typically delivered the approximate equivalent of a clean digital image resolving between 1.5MP and 6MP -- so MFT with a good old lens is capable of producing images of competitive quality to film prints in museums. In other words, MFT is probably good enough for most things.
In sum, enjoy shooting with it and let us know how it went. :-)
Myself also ....
I think we all know you enjoy MFT. :-)

Likewise, I guess by now we all know I will not be truly happy* until I have a sensor that is at least 4x5". ;-)

* I'm happy enough with smaller sensors if the body is proportionately smaller too. MFT bodies larger than my FF Sonys drive me nuts.
 
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Your words are wise as usual ProfHank .

I am happy enough in my little M4/3 mud puddle.

My favourite go to camera body is the 9-year-old GM5 with its antique 16mp 4/3 sensor - on the basis that it is the camera that you have with you that gets the shot.

But I have larger M4/3 bodies - G9 and GX9. Also the S1 in L-Mount and a remaindered off Canon 5Ds simply because it was cheap, I have a stack of EF mount lenses and (best of all) Canon has no intention of superseding it on me :)

I know that you have your 5Ds reservations but it has to be batter than the original 5D that I eventually retired and it was 1/3 of the price of its launch RRP and was new in the box. I intend to keep it for a long time if only to remind myself how tractor-like dslr bodies were to use. The ML bodies that I use in parallel are sweetness and light by comparison.

I don't have to make my 5Ds as a go-to body as just having its big lump on my shelf for an occasional expedition will do nicely.

I did buy a Panasonic G100 on speculation recently when it was offered new for a quite attractive price locally. I have set it up as a stills camera and it is actually a quite engaging little camera to use.

Maybe I am just a bottom feeder?
 
My favourite go to camera body is the 9-year-old GM5 with its antique 16mp 4/3 sensor - on the basis that it is the camera that you have with you that gets the shot.
This is why my NEX-7 still sees some use (and my NEX-5 would if it had an EVF). Actually, the NEX-7 is still surprisingly competitive in having a sensor delivering what DxO calls 13.4 stops of "Landscape" DR (e.g., the Lumix DC-S1R only delivers 14.1), and 24MP is still good for APS-C. The NEX-7 + Pergear 35mm f/1.4 is an interesting pocketable...
But I have larger M4/3 bodies - G9 and GX9. Also the S1 in L-Mount and a remaindered off Canon 5Ds simply because it was cheap, I have a stack of EF mount lenses and (best of all) Canon has no intention of superseding it on me :)

I know that you have your 5Ds reservations but it has to be batter than the original 5D that I eventually retired and it was 1/3 of the price of its launch RRP and was new in the box. I intend to keep it for a long time if only to remind myself how tractor-like dslr bodies were to use. The ML bodies that I use in parallel are sweetness and light by comparison.
Actually, for its resolution, the 5Ds did get to insanely low prices. Yeah, the sensor DR is poor, but it's still as good as any MFT, and they are selling used for under $900, so no further explanation is needed. If I had a pile of EF glass, I'd probably have grabbed a 5Ds too.

With 50MP, the 5Ds still has some charm. I have a 5DIV, which is arguably the best sensor Canon ever put in a DSLR, and it can barely beat an original Sony A7 in delivered IQ, even in resolution despite having 30MP vs. 24MP. Canon's latest sensors in the R5, R3, and R8 are a big step up, but you'd need to go to an R5 to get 5Ds-like resolution.
... Maybe I am just a bottom feeder?
Say that with pride, Tom. ;-)

I'm still around $20/lens average for my 250+ old lenses, despite a few new lens purchases bumping the new-or-old lens average a bit (Laowa 10-18mm, Tamron 28-200mm and 150-500mm). For that matter, it took until this month for me to upgrade past an A7RII body (to an A7RV). So, you're not alone at the bottom... :-)
 
The CZJ 20mm f/4 is a famous lens and, as long as you're going in with reasonable expectations, it's a good purchase despite being pricey. On MFT, it is basically a large, slow, close-focusing, shortish-normal lens (40mm equiv. is NOT wide) with good colors. If you should decide that's not what you want and are not moving up to a larger sensor or use of a focal reducer, you probably wouldn't lose money reselling it, so the risk is fairly low...
I have FF and M4/3 sensor camera body kits and apart from the physical and technical side of the the sensors I don't regard myself as moving up to a larger sensor size. ... :)

M4/3 is actually a quite useful sensor size.
Never said it wasn't... but it's a bad choice if you want high-resolution or wide-angle views from old glass. It's less of a problem with a focal reducer, but you're still throwing away lots of resolution and view angle.

Suppose you have a lens that delivers about 24MP resolution to its designed 36x24 film plane, which is a reasonable number for good old lenses. Here's what you can expect from cropping:
  • FF: 24MP
  • APS-C + focal reducer: 20MP
  • APS-C: 10MP
  • Canon "APS-C": 9MP
  • MFT + focal reducer: 12MP
  • MFT: 6MP
This.. it makes little sense to use FF old wides on M43. They can be used like I can use my 8x10 covering dagor 8” but it makes little sense.

The f4 here is akin to FF f8 aperture, but done at f4 which will have lower contrast and more aberrations. And the use of only a tiny part of the image circle will make it 6mp, if indeed the 24MP are with good enough contrast. Then the larger image circle means 75% (actually usually more since it’s a circle and when corners are good the circle is usually bigger) of the light is now either bouncing into the wrong part of the sensor via reflections of all kind or trying to escape or be absorbed if lucky. And due to old nature (not as black interior and not perfectly clean glass) even stopping down may cause ceiling to overwhelm the image, veiling grows linearly and stopping down reduces useful light more than proportionally.

I am a lot for taking lenses for a larger format and using them in a smaller format, but it is not flattering to the lens and not representative of the lens.

A speed booster and a faster legacy longer lens is a much better choice. But to each its own. Horses for courses.
  • 1": 3MP
You'll often hear people talk about the "center sweet spot" and lenses do in fact resolve better on axis than off axis, but this typically doesn't change the math very much because most good lenses have fairly even fields until you get to the corners. There is also some degradation from sensor stack thickness, and MFT unfortunately went with a 4mm cover glass -- more than twice as thick as is typical for APS-C or FF. Fortunately, a well-designed focal reducer can correct that. That means MFT + focal reducer could out-resolve bare APS-C. It also means that APS-C + focal reducer is even more competitive with FF than it sounds because the resulting 10% crop is pretty much taking out only the often vignetted and soft corners.

Note that having sensors with higher resolution doesn't increase the delivered resolution, but does decrease artifacts. 20MP MFT images tend to be very clean in that sense...
In fact on M4/3 forum we often hear praise for the Sony RX100 and the quality of its 1" sensor images.
Of course, lenses designed explicitly for a smaller sensor can do better -- which is why the Sony RX100 series gets praise while the comparably good 1" sensor in the Nikon 1 cameras was never taken seriously for using adapted lenses. This is also why the DPReview test scene looks pretty good for the smaller-sensor cameras: the test scene is shot with the best-resolving lens DPReview could find.

At this point, I also need to remind any reader that 135 film typically delivered the approximate equivalent of a clean digital image resolving between 1.5MP and 6MP -- so MFT with a good old lens is capable of producing images of competitive quality to film prints in museums. In other words, MFT is probably good enough for most things.
In sum, enjoy shooting with it and let us know how it went. :-)
Myself also ....
I think we all know you enjoy MFT. :-)

Likewise, I guess by now we all know I will not be truly happy* until I have a sensor that is at least 4x5". ;-)
Hopefully it will happen before made great granddads.
* I'm happy enough with smaller sensors if the body is proportionately smaller too. MFT bodies larger than my FF Sonys drive me nuts.
 
Although I never really bonded to my Sony A7R I did't mind the NEX6 that I already had at the time. A fairly simple almost brainless basic stills shooter with only one Fn key. Quite sweet to hold and use.

Decent grip, tilt lcd, quite useful evf, shutter and on/off in just the right place.

I found adding the AEL lock key as an extra screen magnification key allowed the lost magnification after soft press to be re-instated in a very natural manner.

It was as simple as the GM5, probably simpler as the GM5 has heaps of of Fn keys and a very useful touch screen interface. The NEX6 is the technically opposite to the its contemporary: the nerdy complex Ricoh GXR which in many ways was a competitor. Oh I wished the NEX6 evf at least incorporated into the GXR body. Add the tilt lcd and the grip-shutter button combination and the GXR would have been the powerhouse it aspired to be. A bit of a problem with a ML AF option that was going to always be insurmountable (and still is).

The NEX6 has been in use again - I bought the very expensive Yeenon M4/3 to Sony E adapter* and can use my Chinese MF lenses on it as they are mostly aps-c image circle anyway.

I like ot have multiple bodies that I can use my lenses on.

* there is a cheap one available but it is not that good.
 

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