My real world experiences with mft and FF

It's true that a FF sensor can recover a much greater range of EV past the proper exposure. I've seen it in real world uTUBE video comparisons between OM-1 and Z6II.
Unless motion in your scene limits your exposure time, the "proper exposure" would have no recovery at all on the high end, because you would have exposed right up to the point that important highlights were being clipped.
Since they aren't so important I'm happy with the M43 system for this use. Side by side or zooming in enough or high enough ISO and I might not say that but if I just look at the landscapes I have, they are more than good enough for me and everybody else I share them with. Nobody ever said I should have used a FF camera to take them. I don't need anything better than that. I want to be able to say look at this beautiful place, not look at the image quality of the photo, anywhere else that is, besides a DPR forum.
For sure. However, it's also important to note the same is true for an OM-1 vs the original EM-1. That is, the bar for "good enough" was passed long, long ago for the vast majority of photos people take at the sizes they are displayed. So much so that most people are more than satisfied with the results of smartphones nowadays.

For example, from my smartphone:

fddd6fa9b01f40daa70700bff17aa06d.jpg

Nothing striking, of course, and would have been better with a larger sensor system, but, if showing the photo to people at the size they would view it, do you think anyone would care about the differences, even if they noticed them?
And yet on this image (and I know you don't think cellphones are penultimate in IQ) I immediately see that the mountain on the left is not focused or not sharp. I see that because the mountain is bright in the image and my eyes gravitate to the mountain and not the foreground road and fence. This may just be DOF.
Meh -- it's a smartphone snap. I like it, but, of course, as I said, it would have been better (had higher IQ) from a larger sensor system. I mean, it's an OOC jpg, ferchrissakes! Not even RAW! Ugh! :-D
 
It's true that a FF sensor can recover a much greater range of EV past the proper exposure. I've seen it in real world uTUBE video comparisons between OM-1 and Z6II.
Unless motion in your scene limits your exposure time, the "proper exposure" would have no recovery at all on the high end, because you would have exposed right up to the point that important highlights were being clipped.
But +-3EV that can be recovered from OM-1 files is a lot. I've seen that in my own photos where I expected to see a lot of noise in shadows pulled up that much but don't. They are better than I expected even when they start from black and appear to have nothing to recover.
The advantage of getting more light is not highlight recovery (which, again, simply means you underexposed to begin with), it is a less noisy photo at every level.
I'm not disputing the lab test. I am saying from practical experience the OM-1 is a better landscape camera than I expected.

In spite of some issues with HHHR I found stacking is very noise reducing and makes great improvements in bright skies. Color fidelity is improved too. With another generation of processing speed I'm interested to see with HHHR can do at this tech gets better and better with each generation. HDR is available too.
Color and DR are directly related to noise.
I think with lots of light as base ISO and DR in +-3EV M43 is going to be darn close to FF.
It will be as close as ISO 100 on mFT is to ISO 800 on FF (3 stops).
As DR and ISO rise quality diverges but the OM-1 sensor produces very low levels of noise up to ISO800, better than the Z6 which spikes above ISO400 if I remember correctly and the Z6 a great landscape camera.
That is simply not true.
Having said this if landscapes were more important to me I'd buy a FF landscape camera.
In the case of landscapes, the advantage of FF over mFT is simply convenience: you can get the resolution/DR you want with fewer exposures. However, by stacking and merging exposures, any system can get you as much resolution and DR as you want, so long as motion in the scene is a non-issue (which is typically, but not always, true for landscapes).
Since they aren't so important I'm happy with the M43 system for this use. Side by side or zooming in enough or high enough ISO and I might not say that but if I just look at the landscapes I have, they are more than good enough for me and everybody else I share them with. Nobody ever said I should have used a FF camera to take them. I don't need anything better than that. I want to be able to say look at this beautiful place, not look at the image quality of the photo, anywhere else that is, besides a DPR forum.
For sure. However, it's also important to note the same is true for an OM-1 vs the original EM-1. That is, the bar for "good enough" was passed long, long ago for the vast majority of photos people take at the sizes they are displayed. So much so that most people are more than satisfied with the results of smartphones nowadays.

For example, from my smartphone:

fddd6fa9b01f40daa70700bff17aa06d.jpg

Nothing striking, of course, and would have been better with a larger sensor system, but, if showing the photo to people at the size they would view it, do you think anyone would care about the differences, even if they noticed them?
Glad there are others on this forum who enjoy the format but understand the limitations and don’t tolerate fake news.
In photography, I think points should be backed up with photos. People can have different opinions, of course, but it's best to have the photos there for context. To go with that, so many disparage test photos, saying that it's the real-life photos that matter, but never post comparisons that disprove the test photos.

My favorite example is this one. A person was saying that there was no difference between 20 MP on mFT and 45 MP on FF, and was kind enough to present a similar photo from each to make their point. The difference in resolution between the photos was exactly what I would expect it to be, but they claimed no difference (I didn't claim that both weren't "good enough", though).

So, here we have the photos, but two people see them completely differently. Like I said, that's absolutely OK -- but let's have the photos to go along with the claims so that we can make our own determination.
And yes… expose to the right isn’t something many do unfortunately
Can't always be done, though. For one, it only works well when shooting RAW, which many do not do. Secondly, the camera histogram is a jpg histogram, not a RAW histogram (if you use uniwb, that helps, though). Lastly, motion blur and/or DOF usually limit what can be done (i.e., if you're above base ISO, you're not exposing as far to the right as you can).

But you don't have to be perfect, and it's pretty easy to be more perfect than 3 stops under when at base ISO, that's for sure!
 
You have -+3EV of recovery in both directions with the OM1.
That simply means you underexposed by 3 stops. Ideally, one will have *zero* recovery on the high end, but the ideal may not be achieved due to motion blur and/or DOF constraints.
There is no reason to expose to the right because 3EV is a lot of recovery.
That's like saying there's no need for a sharp lens 'cause the consumer lens is plenty sharp.
In the photo below where you see a bridge and people walking across it that started as a jpg, not RAW and that area was pitch black. I didn't think the sensor picked up anything in those shadows. I saw nothing there with my eyes. Of course this also illustrates HHRM cannot be used even for slow-walking people. It does work for people posing if you want a lot of detail in the background. With this much shadow recovery in a jpg and more with a RAW presumably, it is good enough for me. It just isn't usable for motion.

That wooden bridge on the left with two people walking across it, that area was as black as a coal mine. I didn't see anything in there but black. I was amazed that anything showed up in recovery. There is a lot of DR in this composition. Bright, direct sunlight and dark shadow and all of it looks good. The sky is smooth and clean on a hazy day. The colors are good. There is very little noise in the dark shadow-recovered areas. There are more enhancements in HHHR mode than resolution. I'm more impressed with that than I am with the additional resolution. I'm going to see how a 25MP file works when I want better IQ but not more resolution. This would have been a good opportunity to try the 25MP HHHR photo.
Any chance you can post the OOC jpg and/or RAW?
You are wrong about noise.
Not really, but let's discuss.
I didn't bookmark the chart that shows the OM-1 sensor is not generating noise at ISO800 and below but I know I saw it. It had the Z6 sensor included in the test. The way the curve works out, from ISO400 to ISO800 the noise curve on the OM is pretty flat but it rises on the Z6. Not what I expected.
I'm going to go out on a limb and say, no, ISO 800 is definitely more noisy than ISO 400 on an OM1 (and every other camera):

d9326ab06d04413d9b9a56a7b084627d.jpg.png
I'm not arguing the OM-1 beats the Z6 in low-light capture, noise or shadow recovery. The Z6 wins. Z6 shadow recovery is +- 6EV if I remember correctly. Much better. It helps in extreme DR situations but when you have that much DR in the composition you need to think about using HDR anyway or find better lighting.
For the same exposure and more or less same sensor tech, FF has more or less two stops noise and one stop DR over mFT.
Setting the lab test aside, they don't always map perfectly over practical application. I'm looking for how the system works in the field. If the OM-1 recovers this much detail out of a totally black area of a jpg photo without delivering a grainy, noisy mess, with this IQ, I don't need anything that does it better.
If it's good enough for you, I won't tell you it isn't.
Photos where highlights were blown out, were not exposed correctly. There is no problem with this inside an 8EV DR range. 8EV is enough for all but extreme situations where you probably won't try to make a photo. The OM-1 DR range is more than 9.
Again, if the DR from the OM1 is good enough for you, I won't tell you it isn't.
Since I didn't bookmark the noise lab test you are going to have to post one that shows the FF sensor produces less noise from ISO800 and less but also produces a noticeable difference in a real-world image because I make photos, not lab tests. IMO if I have to use a longer exposure or a faster lens I'm going to be able to match the noise level of the FF sensor with the M43 camera.
Well, yeah -- if you use two stops greater exposure with mFT, then you'll match the noise levels of FF.
I can handhold the OM1 for ten seconds to do it if I can sit or lean on something. On a tripod, there is no time limit. For a single-image landscape, the FF camera can have more resolution. Nothing more. In most cases more than a 6EV range is not necessary so it doesn't help much as a practical matter.
FF can fire off as many shots as they like and stack and merge in post (software does alignment). The difference is convenience. And your example below at 1/320 is far, far, far from sharp *anywhere* in the frame.
You can produce a test that will show one system is better than another one but it could be only true for the test. If the system has the capability to capture the image, no greater capability adds anything to the effort.
True, there's the "good enough" clause. However, there is reason for better than "good enough" -- photos that are better than "good enough" have more latitude in processing, which gives more options.
5a34da19bb6048708d8cc531f07429ce.jpg

Regarding your cell phone landscape, it's a terrible photo that demonstrates a situation where a cell phone works poorly. The sky is a weird color and the mountains and the trees in the foreground are too dark, and lack detail. I'd delete it.
I won't argue against your opinion -- its is a snap from a smartphone, after all -- but given the lack of detail in the photo above, well, I'm not sure what you're trying to say other than you seem to like the lack of detail in your photo but don't like it in mine.

Either way, let me make it crystal clear -- I'm not saying FF is better for you (or anyone else). I'm simply saying that it has advantages that may, or may not, be worth the differences in size, weight, price and operation. And, of course, there's considerable diversity in FF cameras. For example, the Canon RP and Sony A7R5 are both FF, but are worlds apart in almost every aspect aside, of course, from both being able to produce nice photos in many circumstances.
You’re right about everything, of course. But, what you’re doing is the photography equivalent of explaining the virtues of liberalism to a conservative and vice verse.



Some people don’t want to know the truth.
 
I didn't take this in a RAW. I didn't apply any sharpening. I thought the light was good, let's see what the camera will do with zero effort and only shadow recovery in post using the MSFT jpg editor. A worst case test. MSFT will smear a sharp image. It's terrible for that. I think it's the first photo I took with it.

Not everybody believes in exposing to the right. The OM-1has more than 9 stops of DR. 8 are almost always enough. If you expose to the center you can recover shadows and highlights. With 3EV you can pull details you can't see with your eyes out of shadows. The camera's DR is greater than the DR of my eyes. Anything more is fantasy. I'm not an artist. I'm happy with real life.

I'm not a landscape photographer. I don't print big, haven't printed in more than two years. I'm not that good or experienced at it as those who are and probably not as picky. My comments are from my practical POV. I do watch their videos and see some shoot landscapes exclusively with M43 cameras and sell the photos. They convinced me. Just by looking at their work, but there is more to it that they demonstrate and explain.

Didn't you post an EM-1 noise test? The OM-1 uses a different sensor. It's much better. There are two types of noise. Noise from the image and noise generated by the camera such as when it overheats. Some sensors do not generate noise below ISO800, or hardly any you can see. If I can't see it, I don't care about it. The OM-1 sensor is on this list. There is a specific scientific term for this. I don't remember what it is and didn't bookmark the article. If you shop around, you might find the article. I stumbled on it somewhere in a thread on DPR. Maybe somebody will read this and throw it up here.

I gleaned from several sources most image DR we can see in a composition falls inside of 8DR so a camera with 9DR should be able to capture all of it. I saw a test where a Z6 recovered a lot more than the OM-1 did but in an image with so much DR I wouldn't try the composition without HDR. I'd walk away because I couldn't see any detail in shadowed areas with my eyes and wouldn't know there is anything there to photograph. Thats the practical limit for me and the OM-1 exceeds it from the photos I took with it.

Improved color fidelity and noise reduction occurs when the HHHR images are stacked in the camera. This enhancement is always there independent of sharpness. The best description I can make is unstacked images do not have smooth transitions and uniform color. The single image photos look dull to me by comparison. You can see it clearly by comparing a single image with an HHHR image. There are threads and articles on how to make this tech work with stunning images to go with them. I suggest you give it a try and do some of your own research because you are never going to believe me and what satisfies me may not be good enough for you. I'm not going to research and write a book on this to convince you. It doesn't matter. Only what satisfies you does. I know what I see with my own eyes and I've said what I see. I have to ask you to take it from there. I don't want to spend an hour a day on this.
 
I didn't take this in a RAW. I didn't apply any sharpening. I thought the light was good, let's see what the camera will do with zero effort and only shadow recovery in post using the MSFT jpg editor. A worst case test. MSFT will smear a sharp image. It's terrible for that. I think it's the first photo I took with it.

Not everybody believes in exposing to the right. The OM-1has more than 9 stops of DR. 8 are almost always enough. If you expose to the center you can recover shadows and highlights. With 3EV you can pull details you can't see with your eyes out of shadows. The camera's DR is greater than the DR of my eyes. Anything more is fantasy. I'm not an artist. I'm happy with real life.

I'm not a landscape photographer. I don't print big, haven't printed in more than two years. I'm not that good or experienced at it as those who are and probably not as picky. My comments are from my practical POV. I do watch their videos and see some shoot landscapes exclusively with M43 cameras and sell the photos. They convinced me. Just by looking at their work, but there is more to it that they demonstrate and explain.

Didn't you post an EM-1 noise test? The OM-1 uses a different sensor. It's much better. There are two types of noise. Noise from the image and noise generated by the camera such as when it overheats. Some sensors do not generate noise below ISO800, or hardly any you can see. If I can't see it, I don't care about it. The OM-1 sensor is on this list. There is a specific scientific term for this. I don't remember what it is and didn't bookmark the article. If you shop around, you might find the article. I stumbled on it somewhere in a thread on DPR. Maybe somebody will read this and throw it up here.

I gleaned from several sources most image DR we can see in a composition falls inside of 8DR so a camera with 9DR should be able to capture all of it. I saw a test where a Z6 recovered a lot more than the OM-1 did but in an image with so much DR I wouldn't try the composition without HDR. I'd walk away because I couldn't see any detail in shadowed areas with my eyes and wouldn't know there is anything there to photograph. Thats the practical limit for me and the OM-1 exceeds it from the photos I took with it.

Improved color fidelity and noise reduction occurs when the HHHR images are stacked in the camera. This enhancement is always there independent of sharpness. The best description I can make is unstacked images do not have smooth transitions and uniform color. The single image photos look dull to me by comparison. You can see it clearly by comparing a single image with an HHHR image. There are threads and articles on how to make this tech work with stunning images to go with them. I suggest you give it a try and do some of your own research because you are never going to believe me and what satisfies me may not be good enough for you. I'm not going to research and write a book on this to convince you. It doesn't matter. Only what satisfies you does. I know what I see with my own eyes and I've said what I see. I have to ask you to take it from there. I don't want to spend an hour a day on this.
When shooting RAW, the idea of exposing to the right is to record as much information (light) as possible with clipping highlights. The higher your exposure, without clipping highlights, the more information you record.

If you shoot the same scene, one exposed regular and the other exposed to the right, you’ll notice the RAW file will actually be larger on the file exposed to the right. Depending on the scene, the file can be little bigger or a lot bigger.

MFT users can benefit from ETTR the most as the smaller sensors don’t collect as much information (light)

Someone properly ETTR on MFT can do very well against someone using a FF camera and not ETTR
 
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You might have a look at this one.

Sensors: Small or Large? Old or New? -The Reality of Dynamic Range in Digital Photography - YouTube

In another one, he says the most difficult thing for the AF system in low light is DoF because you tend to shoot wide open causing the camera to miss some shots. Here he says deeper DoF in a smaller sensor camera helps AF system accuracy.

In most of his missed shots low light shots over the years he says they were caused by incorrect exposure where he could not recover enough because DR is reduced when the exposure is too high or too low.

His main work camera is a D800. He says it's easier in low light because the additional DR gives him more room for exposure error but if the gets the exposure right he can get the same low-light shots with an OM-1.
 
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You might have a look at this one.

Sensors: Small or Large? Old or New? -The Reality of Dynamic Range in Digital Photography - YouTube

In another one, he says the most difficult thing for the AF system in low light is DoF because you tend to shoot wide open causing the camera to miss some shots. Here he says deeper DoF in a smaller sensor camera helps AF system accuracy.
This is simply untrue. CDAF (used in mirrorless) is more accurate than PDAF (used in DSLRs), all else equal, but was slower. However, AF accuracy varies considerably from camera to camera, so there was significant overlap.

So, if you want to claim that, say, the EM5.3 has more accurate AF than the Canon R6, Nikon Z6, or Sony A74, then you'll have to present *credible* evidence to that effect.
In most of his missed shots low light shots over the years he says they were caused by incorrect exposure where he could not recover enough because DR is reduced when the exposure is too high or too low.
Sounds like a photographer problem, not a camera problem.
His main work camera is a D800. He says it's easier in low light because the additional DR gives him more room for exposure error but if the gets the exposure right he can get the same low-light shots with an OM-1.
Again, older DSLR with PDAF vs newer mirrorless with CDAF (possibly complemented with PDAF as well). Compare the OM-1 to its FF contemporaries -- the Sony A7R5, Canon R3, and Nikon Z9. I know how I'm betting.

Still, neither here nor there, really. If you prefer the OM1 to the D800, and can afford to switch, then do it. If you prefer the Z9 to the OM1, and can afford it, then switch. But pretending that mFT has better AF than FF by comparing modern mirrorless to older DSLRs, well, that's not the road I prefer to travel.
 
I didn't take this in a RAW. I didn't apply any sharpening.
Nor did I -- it was a snap from a smartphone, remember? Anyway, I'm not trying to say that a smartphone is as good as an OM1. I'm just saying that for most people, it's good enough in a lot of non-trivial situations. For those that want better, get better. That's what I do -- I probably take one photo from my smartphone for every thousand photos I take with my dedicated cameras.

Here's another quick snap from my smartphone that I like:

1b14269f1615429392be2a15b32fe5a5.jpg

Better than an OM1? Nope -- never made the claim. But, I will say that I think it compares favorably to these OM1 photos. Still, I want to be absolutely clear that I am not saying my smartphone is as good as an OM1, much less better.

But "good enough"? Probably for most people. And, like you said, once "good enough" is passed, what's the point of more?
 
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I bet he takes a better cell phone photo.

I have evidence that the OM-1 AF systems is better than the 5D MKIII and as good as the R5 cuz I used all three on the same shoot but have to post up hundreds of photos to show you and you still wouldn't believe it.

CDAF is more accurate than PDAF but it doesn't work as well for moving subjects unless your panning skills are amazing. I have motorsports photos from old cameras, a PL7, BIF photos from a PM2 that are hard to believe you could make them when people are convinced you need a world-class 2023 A system. You don't but it's harder. It takes more skill and concentration. What did we ever do without AF? We learned to use MF.

Try this HRM landscape. Haven't taken may. Older body. Windy. Movement in the trees but more detail than a single image. I like it.



View attachment b335a11129c6400ab9c8770180603012.jpg



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--
"The Pelican Squadron" - Harvey Gene Sherman
 
I bet he takes a better cell phone photo.
???
This ["deeper DoF in a smaller sensor camera helps AF system accuracy"] is simply untrue. CDAF (used in mirrorless) is more accurate than PDAF (used in DSLRs), all else equal, but was slower. However, AF accuracy varies considerably from camera to camera, so there was significant overlap.

So, if you want to claim that, say, the EM5.3 has more accurate AF than the Canon R6, Nikon Z6, or Sony A74, then you'll have to present *credible* evidence to that effect.


And here you are, saying that the OM1 AF is better than the Canon 5D3, which was an older DSLR that came before the 5D4, which had [significantly] better AF.

So, no, completely contrary to your statement, I'm not saying that the 5D3 had better AF than the OM1. I'm saying that CDAF as an AF accuracy advantage over PDAF, DSLRs use PDAF whereas mirrorless use CDAF (and/or hybrid CDAF/PDAF), and modern mFT mirrorless does not have an AF advantage over modern FF mirrorless (in fact, I'm pretty sure the top FF bodies have the best AF, but the OM1 has better AF than the lower mirrorless FF bodies, like the Canon RP).
CDAF is more accurate than PDAF but it doesn't work as well for moving subjects unless your panning skills are amazing. I have motorsports photos from old cameras, a PL7, BIF photos from a PM2 that are hard to believe you could make them when people are convinced you need a world-class 2023 A system. You don't but it's harder. It takes more skill and concentration. What did we ever do without AF? We learned to use MF.
OK.
Try this HRM landscape. Haven't taken may. Older body. Windy. Movement in the trees but more detail than a single image. I like it.

View attachment b335a11129c6400ab9c8770180603012.jpg

cc654a8bc35b40e4a193caa632fa9ee3.jpg
The photos above echo what the DPR test scene shows:

82036b94d3a04cbf9dcfd9037adfd8f5.jpg.png

Now, you may claim that the DPR test was botched, but, again, the two photos that you posted tell a very similar story. Here are two photos I took which I upsampled to 9000 x 6000 pixels so as to be the same height as the photos you posted for comparison:

View attachment 2002212dd34c480f96d2290b39468e4c.jpg



View attachment 461f839d9e43452d96805d5022895a73.jpg





So, what we have here, are test photos and "real life" photos all telling the same story.

Of course, I need to once again emphasize that I am not saying you, or anyone else, "should" be using FF. In fact, I have been pushing the point that, for most people, smartphones are good enough in most situations. And while you don't like the smartphone photos I posted, I have to say that I like them a lot more than the two photos you posted above. So, for sure, we must allow for different tastes.

In addition, I also need to emphasize that if you prefer the OM1 (or any mFT camera) to FF, then, by all means, use the OM1, and that, in no way, shape, or form, am I saying a smartphone is better than an OM1 (I'm just saying that I like the particular smartphone photos I posted more than the particular OM1 photos you posted).

In short (too late!), there's a reason that some people choose FF, just as there's a reason some people choose mFT. However, it's best to be honest about the advantages and disadvantages of each system, and, more to the point, recognize that it's mainly the photographers who care about the differences between the systems -- the non-photographers viewing the photos typically wouldn't care -- "they all look good" (assuming equally talented photographers and equally appealing/interesting scenes, of course!).
 
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Deep DOF does have an advantage when you don't have to stop down as much. If you soot your M43 body at f/4 and you have to use f/8 on your FF body that equalizes light gathering. That's what Tomas says and he's right. And it does make it easier for your AF system.

HRM is not perfect. I wrote that. It has potential and I haven't learned to process it but I can see the possibilities. It does reduce noise and makes smoother skies and better color. It struggles with detail and motion. Some say Panny handles issues better. Maybe. I have no experience with it.

I also write if my primary use was landscape I'd go FF.

Thomas uses the D800 because it's a budget FF Nikon. He says for what it does it gives him 100% of what he wants for most of his work. He spends his money on lenses. You can see it in his video where he compares the two systems.

He prefers a FF system for his professional work because he says it's easier for him to get what he wants but he can do it with M43 and he does use the OM-1 for professional work when he doesn't want to carry the FF kit or it gets in the way. He photographs studios, portraits, events, concerts, and fashion shows that I know of. A lot of it in very low light with motion he says. He says the deeper DOF of the M43 system helps him get the subject focused because FF is too thin in low light with lenses wide open and it's more difficult for the AF system to find focus. Generally, he prefers the D800 but says he can do all is professional work with his OM-1.

Sorry, your top photo is not interesting, the bottom 1/3 of your bottom photo is black nothingness. You can't recover anything of it? There is data in there. I can see it. If you can't HDR would have been better.

You might know more than Thomas but from his photos and your photos and his background as a multidecade professional and a YouTuber with thousands of subscribers I'll go with Thomas.

I'm just a motorsports guy. It isn't demanding. It's mostly a matter of getting credentialed so you can get to the best parts of the track wheel the action is and you have a clear view where the public is not allowed to go so they don't get hit by a race car and disturb the event. You have to have access to the pits and garages, hang out with the corner workers in their stations, and avoid $500 entry fees. You need assignments from editors who trust you to write something on time that readers want to read and back it up with action photos. The photography is not so demanding. Since everything moved on the web they don't want more than 2000 lines horizontal and 1500 vertical. If you send them a gallery of 20MP images they complain the files are too big and they make you resize them.

Their readers like blurry backgrounds from panning but not all out-of-focus backgrounds. They want variety. IQ is not that important. They want action, not the ability to count rivets. It's more important to be in the right place at the right time. They like the photos in focus but don't need perfect focus. They like some out-of-focus when the shutter speed is too slow because is different.

Putting up 3MP images works pretty well because people steal them off your website. Very few people are honest about this. A cell phone image isn't worth much so who cares? These creeps won't pay for any photography. They think free = good enough. Some will buy a big print and it has to be in focus, it's clear and the car looks good and it's in an interesting location and angle on the track the buddy can't get to they will pay for it. My competitor shoots the newest Canon kit on a tripod. He rents it. His photos are excellent and he makes a living at it, enough to live in San Francisco. He sells 75-100 digital photos for $100 because they are really only 25-33 copies of the same photo. He's on a tripod. I sell a few photos for $100 because I roam the tack. Different business. We are friends and competitors. Our customers buy some from both of us. His photos are technically better but not as interesting. He freezes everything unless I come to the event. Then he has to show motion or the cars look like they're parked on the track. My photos more interesting and not technically as perfect. I want to do better. That's why I bought the OM-1. The EM5.3 and EM1.2 I used were good enough but not as good.

I shot an event with the 5D III and the R5 in rain and gloom, at a Rally school in the mountains over a few days when the temps ranged from the 20s to the 60s and the OM-1 hoping the OM-1 was almost as good. It's better. That surprised and pleased me. The R5 was better than the 5D III the facility owns for their own photography and slightly better than the R5 they rented to test as a 5D III replacement because it's getting pretty old and sed up and their 80Ds died.

After viewing hundreds of photos from all three cameras the school PRO photographer and I decided on average the OM-1 photos are better. We concluded they were better focused which made up for lower resolution, or was it lower resolution made them LOOK better focused? I'm still wondering about this. I'm not wondering which camera made the constantly best images. The OM-1. I also had 50% more reach in a kit that weighed little more than half the weight when I used the f/4 zoom and the images are equal or better. I enabled to take some images that were too far away for the Canons. Yes, they can crop more but you have to be able to see what you want to know when to fire the shutter. More reach = better. I don't see much difference in the DoF between them, not enough to matter to most people who would look at the images.

It even worked better with the 40-150 f/4 compared with the Canon 70-200 f/2.8, even in rain and goom. I could keep the ISO down because I was panning. Usually, you are in motorsports. I don't have to tell you how much easier it is to wander around a 300-acre field with trees and bushes and mud and snow and frozen ground and rain for 6 hours a day for several days with a 2lb kit, vs a 3-4 lb kit. It's a big difference. To make images as good or better with a light kit is a big bonus.

Image separation, DoF, and backgrounds look about the same in this application.

You don't believe me but I know what I see and I only care to convince myself. I have the best camera of the three. Whatever is out there, after this torture test, I don't need anything better.

For years, more than a decade, I was unwilling to break my back with three FF body kits the AP photographers humped up the hills of Laguna Seca in 90-degree+ weather in the desert sun for 7 hours a day over four days. They looked at me with disdain but I was on assignment with them and no editor ever rejected a single one of my photos even though I sometimes use consumer-grade lenses and CDAF-only bodies. They were not all world-class images but they were good enough to earn money. I wanted to do better to satisfy myself and now I can. You can find my work on Sports Car Digest, CorvSport BikeWorld, and Stuttcars. I haven't taken the OM-1 on assignment yet. The images were all made with older 16MP OLY cameras and better, some with the EM1.2 and some with the EM5.3. Some with an EM5, some with a PL7, some with a PM2 I had to use when the EM5 shutter broke out of town on assignment. Out of warranty, OLY fixed it for free. I think they sent me a new camera.

I've taken probably 100,000 motorsports and auto event photos. You can see some here if you care too -

harvey sherman motorsports - Bing images

And here -

Harvey Sherman Motorsports Imaging (smugmug.com)

Here are some photos taken way back with a PL7 and the 75-300 when the EM5 shutter broke. CanAm cars gong 100MPH+. I'd get whiplash if I tried this at the wall. Not perfect you can see from the crops, but very deep crops you can see from the resolution. Slightly cropped they can be sold as professional and they were. Few people could pan these and most pros were on tripods and could not take these images at all. That's the benefit of mobility. The OM1 and the 40-150 f/4 compared with FF and the same reach feels like carrying nothing at all. It's a one-lens trackside solution. I need two lenses and two bodies to cover the races with FF. For me, it isn't worth it when I've never been held back professionally from a smaller sensor.

These were taken with a CDAF-only body and a slow consumer-grade zoom. I can do a lot better now but for the date and gear I had, good enough to publish. Very difficult with this kit. Easy and better with the OM-1 and the 40-1450 f/4. Good enough for sure. I don't need anything better.

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--
"The Pelican Squadron" - Harvey Gene Sherman
https://www.amazon.com/Pelican-Squadron-Tale-Internet-Bubble-ebook/dp/B08FCY6V7Y
 
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Deep DOF does have an advantage when you don't have to stop down as much.
It does not. It's like saying a car with gears 4-6 has an advantage over a car with gears 1-6.
If you soot your M43 body at f/4 and you have to use f/8 on your FF body that equalizes light gathering.
*Only* if the exposure time needs to be the same, which is often not the case.
That's what Tomas says and he's right. And it does make it easier for your AF system.
He is not. Show me how an EM1.3 has better AF than a Canon R5, for example, or how an OM1 has better AF than a Z9 (not an older DSLR, like you did with the OM1 vs Canon 5D3, as I've discussed more than once). Until then, cheers!

By the way, I have to reiterate once again that I am not telling you what is better for you. However, there are facts and there are fictions, and I simply want the facts the front and center. Your preferences, however, are entirely up to you.
 
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You are twisting what he said if you know what he said. I do. He didn't say M34 is better. He said deep DoF helps the AF system when shooting lenses wide open. He's right and it makes sense. Where does the camera think you want the focus when the subjects are moving and the DoF looks to the camera to be too thin?

My friend with the Z6 and l proved this. The OM-1 focuses in much lower light than hs Z6 can. It was no contest but not important because it was so dark nobody would try to take a photo. We couldn't see anything photograph.

That's Thomas' point and my point. As a practical matter, any format will work at least for M43 and up.

How it relates to your gear number analogy I don't know. I confess I don't understand it. Having raced sports car extensively for 5 years I can tell you more gears is better to a point of diminishing return for economy and performance that looks like 8 gears. An internal combustion engine has ~ a 2,500 RPM flat torque curve meaning 85% of acceleration and efficiency from beginning to end. Keeping it in this range yields the best performance. My mother's Chevy had two gears. If she bought one today it could have 8.

I only have to convince me.


Author of "The Pelican Squadron" - Harvey Gene Sherman
 
You are twisting what he said if you know what he said. I do. He didn't say M34 is better. He said deep DoF helps the AF system when shooting lenses wide open. He's right and it makes sense.
Well, he's wrong, and the facts (e.g. OM1 does *not* have better AF than the Z9) support it. Cheers!
 
No worries. It isn't what he said.

He said he uses the D800 for most of his professional work because it's easier for him to make the result he wants. He said the only advantage of the M43 system is bulk and weight but if he wanted to he could do 100% of his professional work with an M43 system he could. To do it he said he would have to be a better photographer than he has to be with the D800, that he has to pay closer attention to settings and light metering and increase the DoF he uses with the D800 so he won't miss focus as much.

The difference for me is I do a completely different kind of photography who different technical demands. I've proven to myself to the Rally facility and their photo pro that the OM-1 is as good or better than the R5 for that type of photography and I can take some images they can't make becauseIhav 50% more each and I can see what I'm shooting at in longer distances.

For me, the trade-off of weight/bulk to a larger sensor favors M43 for my professional work.

I'm going to spank my friend with his golf cart full of Z9 bodies and lenses this year at the track with my OM-1 and one 40-150 f/4 lens. His photos aren't any better than my EM5.3 and EM1.2 photos are.

We get the same assignments. He will need back surgery before I do. I don't need the cart. Keeps me fit. He weeps when he looks at the kit sizes, cost, and weight. He's determined though. I admire that!

--
Author of "The Pelican Squadron" - Harvey Gene Sherman
https://www.amazon.com/Pelican-Squadron-Tale-Internet-Bubble-ebook/dp/B08FCY6V7Y
 
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Scuse me, I raced cars for 15 years, not 5. Typo. Computer's fault. Failing keyboard. Is that unfair to DELL? I hate being that wrong.
 

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