Using a Flash on Fash Moving Targets (Toddlers!)

The duration of the flash burst is 1/1000 to 1/20,000, so, if flash is the main illumination, it will freeze motion. Try it.

Chris R-UK said:

The duration of the flash burst is 1/1000 to 1/20,000, so, if flash is the main illumination, it will freeze motion. Try it.

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So the value here that important for freezing motion would be the flash BURST rather then the Shutter speed?

Zoba132 said:

Chris R-UK said:

The duration of the flash burst is 1/1000 to 1/20,000, so, if flash is the main illumination, it will freeze motion. Try it.

Click to expand...

So the value here that important for freezing motion would be the flash BURST rather than the Shutter speed?

Click to expand...

You don't set the flash burst duration, the camera does. It is the method the camera uses to control the flash exposure - longer burst/more light, shorter burst/less light. Just put the flash into TTL mode and try it. Keep the shutter speed below 1/250. Experiment - using flash in TTL mode is really easy.

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Chris R

Zoba132 said:

Chris R-UK said:

The duration of the flash burst is 1/1000 to 1/20,000, so, if flash is the main illumination, it will freeze motion. Try it.

Click to expand...

So the value here that important for freezing motion would be the flash BURST rather then the Shutter speed?

Click to expand...

Yes, particularly for moving subjects, flash is the important setting. Just set the shutter speed to the sync speed (maybe 1/250 sec. or whatever your camera can manage).

Choose a neutral background, and select an Aperture that will tend to put the background out of focus.

Zoba132 said:

Hi everyone!

So based on the previous thread, I picked GODOX TT350f and has been playing around it for a week now. I spend time reading and watching Flash tutorials: TTL, when to use manual mode, Flash Power lever, use Shutter speed to properly expose the background, etc etc.

I'm working on all of those, but on stationary targets. The reason I got the flash to being with, was to help me taking pictures of my kids in-door. In order to avoid blurry pictures. as they moving a LOT, I mostly set my shutter speed to be around 250-500 in day light.

But as Shutter speed used to expose the background when using flash - at least on the tutorials I have seen - I'm not sure how to apply all that when I actually NEED a specific shutter speed. Also, Above 250x, mean I will be starting to see black bar.

So I guess what I'm looking for is couple of guidelines how to turn those stationary photography flash tips, into situations where shutter speed is important for me (or perhaps a link for something that talk about those object).

Thanks!

Click to expand...

Like the previous posters have said: use TTL with your max sync speed.

Bounce the flash off the ceiling or neutrally coloured walls to get more even distribution of light, and shoot raw + jpeg for the extra exposure headroom, in case you need it.

When it comes to fast moving kids, take many photos, they won't all be keepers, but so what?

Another thought: Google for pictures "Family photojournalist". I think there's a lot of inspiration in those photos: donkt take you camera out to take photos, carry it around the house and snap pictures everywhere all the time (without flash) until the family learns to ignore its presence and act naturally. Even toddlers sit quietly, sometimes for several seconds. Use P mode and auto ISO. Content trumps noise.

Good luck and good light.

Zoba132 said:

Hi everyone!

So based on the previous thread, I picked GODOX TT350f and has been playing around it for a week now. I spend time reading and watching Flash tutorials: TTL, when to use manual mode, Flash Power lever, use Shutter speed to properly expose the background, etc etc.

I'm working on all of those, but on stationary targets. The reason I got the flash to being with, was to help me taking pictures of my kids in-door. In order to avoid blurry pictures. as they moving a LOT, I mostly set my shutter speed to be around 250-500 in day light.

But as Shutter speed used to expose the background when using flash - at least on the tutorials I have seen - I'm not sure how to apply all that when I actually NEED a specific shutter speed. Also, Above 250x, mean I will be starting to see black bar.

So I guess what I'm looking for is couple of guidelines how to turn those stationary photography flash tips, into situations where shutter speed is important for me (or perhaps a link for something that talk about those object).

Thanks!

Click to expand...

I think you're close to the ah ha moment... Recognizing that there are two separate exposures when using flash - you can set both to give desired result. Here you want to illuminate your subject "correctly" while freezing any discernible motion. If you "suppress" ambient exposure (i.e. as if you had no flash) so that the overall scene is fairly dark, then flash can be added to achieve desired exposure or illumination on your subject. Subject motion will be frozen if flash provides the vast majority of overall illumination. In practice, set ambient at 2-3 stops under and then apply + 2 or 3 or 4 stops of flash exposure compensation (FEC). There really isn't a right or wrong answer here - play around until you get results that you like. Better results achieved with bounce flash.

On a whim - try manual mode, SS of around 1/100th, selecting ISO to make the scene somewhat dark (no flash), then use flash at +3 FEC, bounced over your shoulder. Play around with these settings (one at a time so you can associate cause and effect) and see what works. Lots of trial and error - practice is your best ally when mastering flash.

Nick

Good one. I seldom watch you tube videos on how to's of photography, but that one is simple, straightforward and short and should be perfect for the original poster to see the effects without reading through 100 posts of why and technically how flash and his camera work.

I hope the op checks that one out.

geru said:

YouTube video demonstrating the use of flash to freeze motion. Freezing Motion With Flash

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I find I’m often answering the, “Low light camera?” And “what lens should I get?” Questions with a, “Get a decent flash.” response. So much better when used correctly. Nice simple video. Might look up more of that guys content. Thanks.

Yes, I second this. I also frequently offer that advise and frequently get shot down by the anti flash police. Also, if anyone ever asks me what is the first accessory I need for my new xxxx super camera, my answer is an auxiliary flash unit with bounce capabilities. And like you, I intend to look up some more of that video makers videos.

I agree with what most have said here:

• Bounce the flash so you get better light from it.
• Shoot at your sync speed.
• Practice

In addition: shoot in TTL mode, and lock your ISO down. If your Fuji is anything like my Nikon, if you are in AutoISO it will up the ISO before it adds power to the flash, so instead of a photo where the flash did the heavy lifting with respect to the light, you'll get a high-ISO shot and the flash acts like fill.

Good luck and happy shooting!

Thank you, I will!

Klaus dk said:

Like the previous posters have said: use TTL with your max sync speed.

Bounce the flash off the ceiling or neutrally coloured walls to get more even distribution of light, and shoot raw + jpeg for the extra exposure headroom, in case you need it.

Click to expand...

The flash has a build-in white card, and I have seen multiple people using multiple flash direction (shoulder, back etc). So why for example I want to air my flash to the ceiling, and when facing toward my back? or use build-in white card? I assume all means "bouncing".

Klaus dk said:

When it comes to fast moving kids, take many photos, they won't all be keepers, but so what?

Another thought: Google for pictures "Family photojournalist". I think there's a lot of inspiration in those photos: donkt take you camera out to take photos, carry it around the house and snap pictures everywhere all the time (without flash) until the family learns to ignore its presence and act naturally. Even toddlers sit quietly, sometimes for several seconds. Use P mode and auto ISO. Content trumps noise.

Click to expand...

Moving with the camera always at hand so the toddlers can get used to it - is a brilliant tip. Thank you!

Thank you Nick!

So I guess that while now I understand the Flash also freeze movement. I'm not sure WHY. There's a lot of light in a clear day outside. But if set a slow shutter speed for, things WILL get blurry.

So how comes with an external illumination (which is not as strong as the sun obviously), I can still freeze at slower shutter speed? It's the same mechanism - so why that works?

Thanks!

Nice one! Thank you! Subscribed! Watched couple of other interesting videos from the same channel.

Any tips of how to bounce it? there's multiple way (at the shoulder, over the shoulder, at the ceiling, etc etc. The Flash also have White card, so I assume I can even use it.

Zoba132 said:

Any tips of how to bounce it? there's multiple way (at the shoulder, over the shoulder, at the ceiling, etc etc. The Flash also have White card, so I assume I can even use it.

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Just look for a close flat surface to bounce it off. There are a couple priorities.



Is the surface reflective? A white ceiling is better than a dark paneled wall.



Is the surface close enough to your subject? A wall 6 ft to your right is better than a wall 10 ft behind you.



which direction do you want the light coming from? Everything else being equal, maybe you want directional light for a flattering view.



Like many things, they’re no one right answer. Take some shots, swivel the flash, take some more.

Zoba132 said:

Thank you Nick!

So I guess that while now I understand the Flash also freeze movement. I'm not sure WHY. There's a lot of light in a clear day outside. But if set a slow shutter speed for, things WILL get blurry.

So how comes with an external illumination (which is not as strong as the sun obviously), I can still freeze at slower shutter speed? It's the same mechanism - so why that works?

Thanks!

Click to expand...

Picture your camera in a dark room pointed at some moving object, with the shutter open.
If you flash a light you will get a picture of that object while it was illuminated.
Outside the flash you won't record any light because there wasn't any.

If you do this outside, the difference is the darkened room. It's not dark. So you record everything that is going on... plus the flash of light.

Try this:

Camera to Manual, ISO too. Take a picture but underexpose. Play with some settings like aperture to capture more or less light, and S to capture more light+motion.
Underexpose, so your S is too fast or the A is too high - or both.

This is your baseline picture. Any motion that is there on a slow shutterspeed will be recorded.

Keep the settings but now add flash to capture enough light. You will get a properly exposed picture.
But all the motion you had in your baseline image is still there. All the background-light that was dimly iluminated in your baseline image - it's still there.

Zoba132 said:

Thank you Nick!

So I guess that while now I understand the Flash also freeze movement. I'm not sure WHY. There's a lot of light in a clear day outside. But if set a slow shutter speed for, things WILL get blurry.

Click to expand...

Consider it this way - say we need "100" for proper exposure. The camera doesn't care how we get to 100 - can be all ambient. Or all flash. Or a combination.

Assume no flash - we set our aperture and shutter speed to get "100". Depending on actual SS, we may have motion blur or not. Now add flash. We can dial flash up and down (either with flash exposure compensation or power) so that it contributes a little or a lot to the "100". Power up flash so that it provides 100 (i.e. ambient light contributes nothing to overall exposure - imagine a pitch dark night).

Flash freezes motion because duration of flash is on the order of 1/10,000th sec. Doesn't matter if the shutter is open for 10 sec, 1 sec, or 1/100th of a second - the duration of light hitting the sensor/film is only 1/10,000th of a second. That's why motion is frozen.

Back off flash so it is at 90 and ambient is at 10. Yes, the captured image may have some motion blur, but the flash portion of the exposure has none (for reasons outlined above) and since the ambient portion of the image makes up such a small portion of the overall, our eyes can't discern any motion even though it's there.

Obviously, as we vary relative contribution of flash and ambient, at some point, we can discern motion. That's the beauty of flash - with practice, you can change the relative amounts of ambient and flash to achieve desired or creative effects. Flash is a lot more than simply providing "enough light". None of this is quick and easy. 101 Strobist is a good source of technique. Some of the equipment references are dated, but it's the how to's that are of value.

Hope this helps.

Nick

Zoba132 said:

So how comes with an external illumination (which is not as strong as the sun obviously), I can still freeze at slower shutter speed? It's the same mechanism - so why that works?

Thanks!

Click to expand...