Sensor size - optical zoom question / Bridge camera

Don't quite understand how the explanations you found can dispute the fact that extended optical zoom uses only optical means. The fact that it only uses part of the sensor does not make it digital. If that were the case when we put a FF camera in crop mode, we would be using digital zoom functions as that is the same as using extended optical zoom.
It does not zoom by using the optics.

Anyway, it has absolutely no value in term of IQ. This is just convenient because it is kind of digital zoom, nothing else and nothing to do with optical zoom ofc.

I won't spend more time on this, this is reallh not worth discussing about digital zoom which is a very basic feature.
 
skyglider wrote:.

Also, EOZ is optical zoom, not digital zoom. So your last sentence is also wrong.
This is digital, they are cheating with the terminology.
Sorry but your statement is incorrect. Extended Optical Zoom (EOZ) is NOT digital zoom. It is 100% pure optical zoom. With EOZ there are NO made up pixels like digital zoom creates.

Digital zoom takes an image and blows it up by creating pixels. EOZ does not create any pixels what-so-ever! What EOZ does is it uses a smaller area of the sensor and displays that image as full screen. Because it uses a smaller area of the sensor, EOZ for the FZ300 is rated as:

FZ300 Extended Optical Zoom Ratios at 4:3 aspect:
• Large (12MP) = 4000 x 3000 (no EOZ - native 24x optical zoom)
• EOZ Medium (8MP) = 3264 x 2448 (29.4x optical zoom)
• EOZ Small (3MP) = 2048 x 1536 (46.9x optical zoom)

So for the EOZ in the 4:3 aspect-3MP mode, the image that will be captured is using a rectangle of 2048x1536 in the center of the 4000x3000 resolution sensor. It just displays that 2048x1536 rectangle as full screen in the viewfinder or back LCD screen and that will be recorded on the SD card. ..... The advantages of doing this are that 1) exposure will be set for the image in the viewfinder and 2) that it's easier to focus the magnified subject that is seen in the viewfinder.

EOZ does NOT invent any pixels like digital zoom does.
Anyway, I have said many times that digital/optical is misleading, it is an open door for cheating, which panasonic did unfortunately.
Panasonic is not cheating by saying it is extended OPTICAL zoom, because that is what it truly is.
  • The optical part is using the camera's native optical zoom that's in the lens.
  • The extended part is using a smaller area of the sensor as the full screen image in the viewfinder or back LCD screen and recording that as the image shot.
100% of the links contradict what you say., so..

Just one of the millions of link that contract you !!
Totally untrue made up statistics. Any sensible person knows that 100% and millions of links are totally untrue.
What’s the Difference Between Optical Zoom and Digital Zoom?

"Optical zoom involves a physical camera lens movement, which changes the apparent closeness of the image subject by increasing the focal length. To zoom in, the lens moves away from the image sensor, and the scene is magnified. It is useful to think of digital zoom as photo-processing software built into your camera. By enlarging pixels in the center of the photo and cropping out the rest, digital zoom gives the appearance of magnifying the subject, while also lessening resolution and image quality"
You obviously don't understand how EOZ works. As you said in another post, you won't spend anymore time on this, which is fine.

The OP said he/she will test EOZ, tripod and "shutter speed for long zoom handheld pics" this weekend. He/she will decide whether any works for him/her.
 
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I bought the Pana FZ300 for my wife . She was after a light camera to use for bird photos and was not interested at all in the interchengeable lens type.

At the time I thoght it was the best value for money for a camera under $1000 for her purpose .

I still think it is.

Last year I bought her the Sony RX10 MIV.

It is a much better camera, in fact at times my wife gets a better photo from that than I do ,standing next to her, with my APS C sony with the 70-400mm (same top end in that zoom as the RX10)

I feel that having carried the FZ300 for a couple of years helped her getting over the size and weight of the RX10 (she is very happy with that).

BTW, have a look at the Cybershot forum here for the sort of photos the RX10 can take.

BTW, there are a few bridge camera with a much longer optical zoom than the one on the RX 10 but all have the same sensor size of yours so not as good in low light and not as fast for action shots as the Sony is.
1/2.3 type (7.82mm) Exmor R CMOS sensor

7e89837254dd400c92504d8fe91b5122.jpg
Shame feather detail is smeared with NR.

--
What’s this full frame malarkey then….
 
I bought the Pana FZ300 for my wife . She was after a light camera to use for bird photos and was not interested at all in the interchengeable lens type.

At the time I thoght it was the best value for money for a camera under $1000 for her purpose .

I still think it is.

Last year I bought her the Sony RX10 MIV.

It is a much better camera, in fact at times my wife gets a better photo from that than I do ,standing next to her, with my APS C sony with the 70-400mm (same top end in that zoom as the RX10)

I feel that having carried the FZ300 for a couple of years helped her getting over the size and weight of the RX10 (she is very happy with that).

BTW, have a look at the Cybershot forum here for the sort of photos the RX10 can take.

BTW, there are a few bridge camera with a much longer optical zoom than the one on the RX 10 but all have the same sensor size of yours so not as good in low light and not as fast for action shots as the Sony is.
1/2.3 type (7.82mm) Exmor R CMOS sensor

7e89837254dd400c92504d8fe91b5122.jpg
not sure what that photo was meant to show.

The bird is tame and about 2 metres from the camera, most cameras can do that. Don't forget that I do have that FZ300 and, as I already mentioned 3 times... I like it for what it is in that price range and that is why I have suggested it to many BUT the OP is looking for something better .
I was hardly 2 metres from this bird. I was inside my vehicle, still with engine on, in the middle of the road, stopping traffic. But I was at the park, speed limit, 15mph.

I think I posted this picture as a reference to sensor size. This camera sensor being the same as the FZ300.

The bird was literally as least 60 metres from the camera. But this was not meant to impress anyone, but to show that tiny sensor in decent light can do okay. Most cameras don't have a 1200mm, Optical Zoom. So why did you assume, 2 metres from the camera.

ANGLE OF VIEW (35MM FORMAT EQUIVALENT)84deg.-2deg. (24-1200mm)
 
"So why did you assume, 2 metres from the camera ?"

because of the downward angle of that photo but I see,now, from the EXIF that your description sounds right.

But I already posted, more than once, that the FZ 300 can indeed take nice shots (in good light) but that my comments were in relation to the OPs quest for a better camera.

I have used both the FZ300 and the RX10 IV and there is no comparison but yes the RX is a LOT more expensive.
 
I currently have a Panasonic FZ300 Bridge camera that I am quite pleased with. I use it primarily for backyard birding photography. I'm finding it to be a short on the optical zoom for when I am out in the park areas.

The Panasonic FZ300 has a 1 2/3 sensor and is a 12 megapixel camera. I have been shooting with it for 2 years and am looking to upgrade.

If I were to get a camera with a similar optical zoom but with a 1" sensor would it improve the quality / clarity of the photos? (I'm getting alot of blurring when lens is fully extended). I have read quite a bit about the differences between sensor sizes but I'm struggling to understand how it affects quality of the photo.

My photo taking is for my own pleasure (I mostly view via laptop) and I don't blow things up for prints etc. Of the newer bridge cameras I have been viewing (not the Sony RX10 lV - too large and beyond my budget) they all seem to be 1" sensors / with more MP (18 -20 MP). But the optical zoom isn't much different (and sometimes less) than my FZ300.

I'm not sure it would be helpful - but I'm currently looking at :
  • Panasonic FZ1000 ll
  • Panasonic FZ2500
I have read the reviews and done the side by side comparisons - but I am still very much a beginner and don't understand a fair bit.

Thank you for your time with this.
It can be helpful to take a step back to understand the real issues with sensor size.

First of all, with the same subject, at the same angle of view, same shutter speed, same aperture diameter, and same quality lens, you will get essentially the same image.

By "essentially the same image" I mean same motion blur, same depth of field, same diffraction issues, same overall image noise, etc. In other words, the images should look visually the same.

Let's take a moment to talk about "aperture". Your lens has a variable size, roughly circular hole in it. When you open the aperture you are making the hole larger, and when you stop down, you are making the hole smaller.

For historical reasons centered around the needs of film, we generally don't refer to the diameter of the aperture hole. Instead we refer to the ratio of the focal length to the aperture diameter.

When we say the aperture is "f/4", that's literally an algebraic formula for the aperture diameter. It states that the aperture diameter is the focal length ("f") divided by 4. If the lens is a 100mm lens, the aperture diameter is 25mm. With a 50mm lens, the aperture diameter f/4 is 12.5mm.

Let's consider a 2X crop body compared to a full frame body. If you are shooting the full frame with a 50mm lens at f/4 that's a 46° angle of view and a 12.5mm aperture diameter.

With a 2X crop body, you would need a 25mm lens to match the 46° angle of view, and f/2 to get that same 12.5mm aperture diameter.

The fundamental advantage of a full frame camera is that you generally have the option of larger aperture diameters than with a smaller sensor. If you are shooting the full frame at f/1.8, you would need f/0.9 on a 2X crop in order to match aperture diameter.

.

Now let's take a look at the FZ2500. That camera has a crop factor of about 2.7X. This means that a 100mm lens on the FZ2500 yields the same angle of view as a 270mm lens on a full frame.

The FZ2500 lens zooms from 8.9 to 178mm (that yields the same angle of views as 24-480mm on a full frame). The aperture ranges from f/2.8 to f/4.5

At 178mm the maximum aperture is f/4.5. That's the same angle of view and aperture diameter as a full frame with a 480mm lens at f/12.2.

.

Now let's take a look at why a bird image might not be sharp. First of all, at that small aperture diameter, diffraction is an issue. The diffraction blur is larger than the pixel size, and limits your sharpness. There is no way you can get a pixel sharp 20 megapixel image at full zoom.

Next, you need to consider the quality of the lens. It's a real challenge to make an affordable, high quality lens with a 20:1 zoom range. It's possible the quality of your lens is also affecting sharpness.

Next, there are issues of motion blur if your shutter speed is too low.

.

When shooting birds, physics is the challenge. You need a wide enough aperture to avoid diffraction issues. You need a wide enough aperture to let in enough light for a shutter speed fast enough to avoid motion blur. But you need the aperture small enough that you get enough depth of field.

Small sensor cameras limit your maximum aperture size, and this can be a problem.

On the other hand, if you are making prints, you may not need 20 megapixels. 9 megapixels is more than enough for an 8x10 print at 300 pixels per inch. So the question is what quality do you need? Do you want to be able to pixel peep and see a sharp image, or are you happy with quality good enough for a sharp print?
I can't even begin to say how much I DISAGREE with literally everything above ...

Michael, I have been observing this forum since 1994 (I think) ... how do you explain the many many many prior posts where no-one could tell the difference between identical shots from (properly exposed) FF vs 1/2.3" sensors ???

If you were even close to being correct above, it would be immediately apparent, (and the 1/2.3" unacceptable).

I have explained many times that I have been in photography since 1959 (pro since 1964) and indeed SHARED YOUR VIEW that nothing smaller than FF could possibly be acceptable, until circumstances forced me to use a 1/2.3", (not expecting good IQ).

I was first surprised that the IQ was not as "bad" as I expected, and capable of enlargements to 16"x20" and even 20"x30".

But I was MOST surprised to find that because of its SPEED & CONVENIENCE and additional options & features (not available on any FF/APS), I was able to literally take 10X more images.

So my QUESTION to you is what is more important ...

1.) A few optimum-IQ images ... ???

or

2.) 10X more images with IQ virtually indistinguishable from FF, (or not possible) ???

Now I admit that I wanted larger posters, so did get the FZ1000 because of its 4X larger sensor and now sell 24"x36" (but would not hesitate to do 40"x60" if required).

Note that the FZ1000 had additional options & features 9-years ago that are just now available on larger-sensors, (and the newer FZ1000-II has jumped ahead again with "Post-Stacking Focus" and "Pre-Pro Capture" -- which is a new paradigm to enable capturing the "peak" of action AFTER the "peak").

The RX10-IV is also unique with its "stacked" sensor 6-years ago enabling 24fps w/ 9-34ms shutter/AF-lag. Just now being matched w/ newer cameras.

Most of the (only SOOC) images I post here could not have been done w/ any other camera except either the FZ or RX, (especially as fast/easy or at the same cost).

Again, these are Straight-Out-0f-Camera with NO PP/NR beyond in-camera JPEG ...



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"So why did you assume, 2 metres from the camera ?"

because of the downward angle of that photo but I see,now, from the EXIF that your description sounds right.

But I already posted, more than once, that the FZ 300 can indeed take nice shots (in good light) but that my comments were in relation to the OPs quest for a better camera.

I have used both the FZ300 and the RX10 IV and there is no comparison but yes the RX is a LOT more expensive.
Now I remember what I was going to do. A comparison. Since the OP did mention this camera, just the upgraded version. I have the original. Same shot, straight out of camera Jpeg. Showing my position also relative to the bird. Before I fully zoomed in.

Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ1000

25-400mm f/2.8-4 (35mm Equivalent)



cdb4c905c9854aecaca99392d5394f26.jpg



73c5deb14a82439bbeb718bc6b58cc10.jpg



5056972d27244e56b87f4bab537133db.jpg
 
I can't even begin to say how much I DISAGREE with literally everything above ...

Michael, I have been observing this forum since 1994 (I think) ... how do you explain the many many many prior posts where no-one could tell the difference between identical shots from (properly exposed) FF vs 1/2.3" sensors ???

If you were even close to being correct above, it would be immediately apparent, (and the 1/2.3" unacceptable).

I have explained many times that I have been in photography since 1959 (pro since 1964) and indeed SHARED YOUR VIEW that nothing smaller than FF could possibly be acceptable, until circumstances forced me to use a 1/2.3", (not expecting good IQ).

...
Please do not mischaracterize my statements. At no time did I say or suggest that anything smaller than full frame was unacceptable.

In fact, I make the claim that at the same aperture diameter, same angle of view, and same shutter speed, you will get visually the same image, independent of sensor size.

While, I did not explicitly state it here, in other posts I have taken the position that at some point the image quality is "good enough", and that further increases in quality will make no noticeable difference in the final image.

.

For those who want to pixel peep, a higher quality lens can make a difference with a high megapixel body. However, if your final product is an 8x10 print, then you may not see a difference in your final print.

If you are shooting an FZ2500 at the longest zoom, with the aperture wide open, pixel peeping will reveal that you are not getting the benefit of the full 20 megapixels. Diffraction is softening the image. I did not say that the results would be unacceptable. 10 megapixels of resolution is more than enough to get a great looking 8x10 print.

By the way, at the same depth of field and same angle of view, diffraction would be just as much of an issue on a 20 megapixel full frame camera. This isn't a sensor size issue, it's an aperture diameter issue.

Now, with a full frame camera, you would likely have the option of using a larger aperture diameter. That would give you less depth of field, but also reduce the diffraction issues. That's the advantage of full frame, you generally have the option of larger aperture diameters. Of course, those larger aperture diameter lenses typically cost more, therefore financial limitations might be a constraint.

Another advantage of interchangeable lens cameras is that you can choose a higher quality lens. At the same cost, a prime lens will usually have better quality than a 20:1 zoom. Of course, this does not mean the 20:1 zoom is unacceptable. That zoom may very well produce quality that is more than good enough.
 
I currently have a Panasonic FZ300 Bridge camera that I am quite pleased with. I use it primarily for backyard birding photography. I'm finding it to be a short on the optical zoom for when I am out in the park areas.

The Panasonic FZ300 has a 1 2/3 sensor and is a 12 megapixel camera. I have been shooting with it for 2 years and am looking to upgrade.

If I were to get a camera with a similar optical zoom but with a 1" sensor would it improve the quality / clarity of the photos? (I'm getting alot of blurring when lens is fully extended). I have read quite a bit about the differences between sensor sizes but I'm struggling to understand how it affects quality of the photo.

My photo taking is for my own pleasure (I mostly view via laptop) and I don't blow things up for prints etc. Of the newer bridge cameras I have been viewing (not the Sony RX10 lV - too large and beyond my budget) they all seem to be 1" sensors / with more MP (18 -20 MP). But the optical zoom isn't much different (and sometimes less) than my FZ300.

I'm not sure it would be helpful - but I'm currently looking at :
  • Panasonic FZ1000 ll
  • Panasonic FZ2500
I have read the reviews and done the side by side comparisons - but I am still very much a beginner and don't understand a fair bit.

Thank you for your time with this.
It can be helpful to take a step back to understand the real issues with sensor size.

First of all, with the same subject, at the same angle of view, same shutter speed, same aperture diameter, and same quality lens, you will get essentially the same image.

By "essentially the same image" I mean same motion blur, same depth of field, same diffraction issues, same overall image noise, etc. In other words, the images should look visually the same.

Let's take a moment to talk about "aperture". Your lens has a variable size, roughly circular hole in it. When you open the aperture you are making the hole larger, and when you stop down, you are making the hole smaller.

For historical reasons centered around the needs of film, we generally don't refer to the diameter of the aperture hole. Instead we refer to the ratio of the focal length to the aperture diameter.

When we say the aperture is "f/4", that's literally an algebraic formula for the aperture diameter. It states that the aperture diameter is the focal length ("f") divided by 4. If the lens is a 100mm lens, the aperture diameter is 25mm. With a 50mm lens, the aperture diameter f/4 is 12.5mm.

Let's consider a 2X crop body compared to a full frame body. If you are shooting the full frame with a 50mm lens at f/4 that's a 46° angle of view and a 12.5mm aperture diameter.

With a 2X crop body, you would need a 25mm lens to match the 46° angle of view, and f/2 to get that same 12.5mm aperture diameter.

The fundamental advantage of a full frame camera is that you generally have the option of larger aperture diameters than with a smaller sensor. If you are shooting the full frame at f/1.8, you would need f/0.9 on a 2X crop in order to match aperture diameter.

.

Now let's take a look at the FZ2500. That camera has a crop factor of about 2.7X. This means that a 100mm lens on the FZ2500 yields the same angle of view as a 270mm lens on a full frame.

The FZ2500 lens zooms from 8.9 to 178mm (that yields the same angle of views as 24-480mm on a full frame). The aperture ranges from f/2.8 to f/4.5

At 178mm the maximum aperture is f/4.5. That's the same angle of view and aperture diameter as a full frame with a 480mm lens at f/12.2.

.

Now let's take a look at why a bird image might not be sharp. First of all, at that small aperture diameter, diffraction is an issue. The diffraction blur is larger than the pixel size, and limits your sharpness. There is no way you can get a pixel sharp 20 megapixel image at full zoom.

Next, you need to consider the quality of the lens. It's a real challenge to make an affordable, high quality lens with a 20:1 zoom range. It's possible the quality of your lens is also affecting sharpness.

Next, there are issues of motion blur if your shutter speed is too low.

.

When shooting birds, physics is the challenge. You need a wide enough aperture to avoid diffraction issues. You need a wide enough aperture to let in enough light for a shutter speed fast enough to avoid motion blur. But you need the aperture small enough that you get enough depth of field.

Small sensor cameras limit your maximum aperture size, and this can be a problem.

On the other hand, if you are making prints, you may not need 20 megapixels. 9 megapixels is more than enough for an 8x10 print at 300 pixels per inch. So the question is what quality do you need? Do you want to be able to pixel peep and see a sharp image, or are you happy with quality good enough for a sharp print?
I can't even begin to say how much I DISAGREE with literally everything above ...
To me it seems Michael was factually correct throughout his reply, so it doesn't come to a surprise that you disagree literally with everything he said.

I removed most your ramblings about how great your system of choise is as it's totally irrelevant. You are happy with your system - great, but that doesn't mean that you should try to force feed your opinions as the grand truth when they clearly violate evidence based reality as described by several fields of science.
Most of the (only SOOC) images I post here could not have been done w/ any other camera except either the FZ or RX, (especially as fast/easy or at the same cost).
Absolutely untrue. All of those could have been easilty taken with numerous systems. Most with mobile phone cameras.
Again, these are Straight-Out-0f-Camera with NO PP/NR beyond in-camera JPEG ...
And it shows. SOOC JPGs tend to be very heavily processed. All the below images have at the very least significant processing artifacts.

I'll comment them from technical point of view a bit:
Soft even at A4 size, hideously overprocessed soft and noisy mess when viewed larger.
Lots of information just burned away and lots hidden in the blacks as well, it seems, all right at A4 size, somewhat soft and partly out of focus.
Might be all right as postcard size, but a hideous blurry mess at A4 and beyond.
Too bad your supercamera needed a flashlight. All those burned reflections hurt my eyes. Other than that it performs well at A4 size, even somewhat beyond. A larger size shows significant lack of detail compared what many other systems would allow to capture.
At A4 size this is fine, though with parts unfortunately burned. A larger size would reveal hideous noise reduction artifacts, blurry soft mess.
At A4 size perfectly fine result. At larger sizes it becomes clear how overprocessed the image is - large sharpening artifacts and still the result is somewhat soft and lacking in detail.
This is one of the better ones - also from artistic point of view - easily good enough for A4, even somewhat larger. Howevere significantly larger output shows again softness with sharpenign artifacts as well as noise reduction artifacts.
Again the inherit softness of the image the lens has drawn causes issues - lots of processing makes the JPG appear good at moderate sizes, like A4, but larger size output shows lack of detail and the result looks very artificial as it's overprocessed.
Even at A4 this is a hideous mess. Horrible. Lack of detail, overprocessing apparent and white areas seem largely burned from all detail.
Even in the smaller than postcard size embedded in the post this is absolutely hideously bad. I've never seen anyone proudly show this kind blurry mess as an example of a performance level of camera one loves. Technically one of the very worst images I've seen for a very long time.
A4 size is fine, beyond it starts breaking apart as vastly overprocessed soft, blurry and noisy mess. Hideous colors too.
Even at A4 level not the greatest, when bigger it gets much worse. Losy colors, very poor details, loads and loads of processing artifacts.
One of the least bad shots - at A4 it's perfectly fine, though rather bland. Larger outputs start showing more and more artifacts.
All right, though bland at A4 size apart from obvious softness in the right hand size rock - that's a superzoom lens for you. Larger sizes show very poor quality, especially that rock, lots and lots of artifacts, sharpening and NR. Rather poor level of details.
Again, A4 size is practically fine, however a blue sky causes a problem as the sharpening halos are seen easily against it, making it less valuable. Looking at bigger size starts revealing horrible artifacts in the sky and massive oversharpening. Still one of the better shots.

I accidently removed one shot - it was a wide area view of the church and forest surroundings - it was also bad - even at A4 the burned roof and other white parts ruin the shot. And when viewed at larger sizes the lack of detail and overprocessing are obvious.

In general the theme is the same: lots of processing of the often very limited quality data the image sensor provides and it presents itself as all kinds of image flaws. Heavy handed processing is used to hide lack of detail and sometimes very high noise levels. Typically the shots performed well upto about A4 size level, but not much beyond.

One could do a much better job shooting raw and doing the processing oneself. Some extra care with exposure is also adviseable, in some cases to collect more information, in others to preserve highligh detail.

All in all, most shots are tecnically fine at moderate size, but hideous at large size. The shots are not much different from a mobile phone camera shots - phone cameras typically have a higher quality lens and in some cases faster one as well.
with IQ virtually indistinguishable from FF,
If we were to perform a double blind test with shots of the above quality and FF shots from Joe Average, I doubt there would anyone but you in this forum who wouldn't see large image quality differences.
 
I currently have a Panasonic FZ300 Bridge camera that I am quite pleased with. I use it primarily for backyard birding photography. I'm finding it to be a short on the optical zoom for when I am out in the park areas.

The Panasonic FZ300 has a 1 2/3 sensor and is a 12 megapixel camera. I have been shooting with it for 2 years and am looking to upgrade.

If I were to get a camera with a similar optical zoom but with a 1" sensor would it improve the quality / clarity of the photos? (I'm getting alot of blurring when lens is fully extended). I have read quite a bit about the differences between sensor sizes but I'm struggling to understand how it affects quality of the photo.

My photo taking is for my own pleasure (I mostly view via laptop) and I don't blow things up for prints etc. Of the newer bridge cameras I have been viewing (not the Sony RX10 lV - too large and beyond my budget) they all seem to be 1" sensors / with more MP (18 -20 MP). But the optical zoom isn't much different (and sometimes less) than my FZ300.

I'm not sure it would be helpful - but I'm currently looking at :
  • Panasonic FZ1000 ll
  • Panasonic FZ2500
I have read the reviews and done the side by side comparisons - but I am still very much a beginner and don't understand a fair bit.

Thank you for your time with this.
It can be helpful to take a step back to understand the real issues with sensor size.

First of all, with the same subject, at the same angle of view, same shutter speed, same aperture diameter, and same quality lens, you will get essentially the same image.

By "essentially the same image" I mean same motion blur, same depth of field, same diffraction issues, same overall image noise, etc. In other words, the images should look visually the same.

Let's take a moment to talk about "aperture". Your lens has a variable size, roughly circular hole in it. When you open the aperture you are making the hole larger, and when you stop down, you are making the hole smaller.

For historical reasons centered around the needs of film, we generally don't refer to the diameter of the aperture hole. Instead we refer to the ratio of the focal length to the aperture diameter.

When we say the aperture is "f/4", that's literally an algebraic formula for the aperture diameter. It states that the aperture diameter is the focal length ("f") divided by 4. If the lens is a 100mm lens, the aperture diameter is 25mm. With a 50mm lens, the aperture diameter f/4 is 12.5mm.

Let's consider a 2X crop body compared to a full frame body. If you are shooting the full frame with a 50mm lens at f/4 that's a 46° angle of view and a 12.5mm aperture diameter.

With a 2X crop body, you would need a 25mm lens to match the 46° angle of view, and f/2 to get that same 12.5mm aperture diameter.

The fundamental advantage of a full frame camera is that you generally have the option of larger aperture diameters than with a smaller sensor. If you are shooting the full frame at f/1.8, you would need f/0.9 on a 2X crop in order to match aperture diameter.

.

Now let's take a look at the FZ2500. That camera has a crop factor of about 2.7X. This means that a 100mm lens on the FZ2500 yields the same angle of view as a 270mm lens on a full frame.

The FZ2500 lens zooms from 8.9 to 178mm (that yields the same angle of views as 24-480mm on a full frame). The aperture ranges from f/2.8 to f/4.5

At 178mm the maximum aperture is f/4.5. That's the same angle of view and aperture diameter as a full frame with a 480mm lens at f/12.2.

.

Now let's take a look at why a bird image might not be sharp. First of all, at that small aperture diameter, diffraction is an issue. The diffraction blur is larger than the pixel size, and limits your sharpness. There is no way you can get a pixel sharp 20 megapixel image at full zoom.

Next, you need to consider the quality of the lens. It's a real challenge to make an affordable, high quality lens with a 20:1 zoom range. It's possible the quality of your lens is also affecting sharpness.

Next, there are issues of motion blur if your shutter speed is too low.

.

When shooting birds, physics is the challenge. You need a wide enough aperture to avoid diffraction issues. You need a wide enough aperture to let in enough light for a shutter speed fast enough to avoid motion blur. But you need the aperture small enough that you get enough depth of field.

Small sensor cameras limit your maximum aperture size, and this can be a problem.

On the other hand, if you are making prints, you may not need 20 megapixels. 9 megapixels is more than enough for an 8x10 print at 300 pixels per inch. So the question is what quality do you need? Do you want to be able to pixel peep and see a sharp image, or are you happy with quality good enough for a sharp print?
I can't even begin to say how much I DISAGREE with literally everything above ...

Michael, I have been observing this forum since 1994 (I think) ... how do you explain the many many many prior posts where no-one could tell the difference between identical shots from (properly exposed) FF vs 1/2.3" sensors ???

If you were even close to being correct above, it would be immediately apparent, (and the 1/2.3" unacceptable).

I have explained many times that I have been in photography since 1959 (pro since 1964) and indeed SHARED YOUR VIEW that nothing smaller than FF could possibly be acceptable, until circumstances forced me to use a 1/2.3", (not expecting good IQ).

I was first surprised that the IQ was not as "bad" as I expected, and capable of enlargements to 16"x20" and even 20"x30".

But I was MOST surprised to find that because of its SPEED & CONVENIENCE and additional options & features (not available on any FF/APS), I was able to literally take 10X more images.

So my QUESTION to you is what is more important ...

1.) A few optimum-IQ images ... ???

or

2.) 10X more images with IQ virtually indistinguishable from FF, (or not possible) ???

Now I admit that I wanted larger posters, so did get the FZ1000 because of its 4X larger sensor and now sell 24"x36" (but would not hesitate to do 40"x60" if required).

Note that the FZ1000 had additional options & features 9-years ago that are just now available on larger-sensors, (and the newer FZ1000-II has jumped ahead again with "Post-Stacking Focus" and "Pre-Pro Capture" -- which is a new paradigm to enable capturing the "peak" of action AFTER the "peak").

The RX10-IV is also unique with its "stacked" sensor 6-years ago enabling 24fps w/ 9-34ms shutter/AF-lag. Just now being matched w/ newer cameras.

Most of the (only SOOC) images I post here could not have been done w/ any other camera except either the FZ or RX, (especially as fast/easy or at the same cost).

Again, these are Straight-Out-0f-Camera with NO PP/NR beyond in-camera JPEG ...
What Michael posted is accurate and so I don't see what you are rambling on about.

It seems to me you took his post and twisted what he said into an opportunity for you to once again rinse and repeat your opinion about your preferred camera.

The result has been that the technical limitations of your preferred camera and the flaws in the same tired old example images you post in this type of threads have again been exposed as a reminder to you.

No-one is telling you to not use your camera or shoot sooc jpegs but you seem to be having difficulty in coping with the fact that people can output higher quality images using other cameras and lenses and expressing that they can.

If you are happy with the image quality of the sooc jpegs your camera can produce then that is fine, as it is your choice to make, and so just continue using what works best for you.

But to imply, as you do with your rinse and repeats, that your opinion of your camera should then be adopted by everyone else is just plain silly because it has no chance at all of happening, at least with me.

If you really believe your posted sooc jpeg images are high quality, then why not post links to their original raw files and I am certain that people will be able to show you how to output better quality images than the sooc jpegs by processing the raw data.

--
* exposure - amount of light striking the sensor per unit area while the shutter is open
** optimal exposure - the maximum exposure* within dof and motion blur requirements without clipping important highlights.
Canon 90D, 600D, Photoshop Elements with Elements+, Elements XXL
 
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This is terrible, you must have made a mistake posting this

(not saying you made your case with the others)
Is this just a case of completely missing focus?
Maybe, maybe not.

What i find puzzling is that someone who supposedly has as much experience as PT2 claims to have doesn't see any issues with it or the other images he posts and instead highlights them as an example of the "quality" of sooc jpegs his preferred camera can produce.
Generally those bridge cameras have pretty good AF performance?
--
* exposure - amount of light striking the sensor per unit area while the shutter is open
** optimal exposure - the maximum exposure* within dof and motion blur requirements without clipping important highlights.
Canon 90D, 600D, Photoshop Elements with Elements+, Elements XXL
 
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This is terrible, you must have made a mistake posting this

(not saying you made your case with the others)
THANK YOU !!!

That photo is indeed unacceptably fuzzy ... I admit I have never printed nor looked at it closely before, (only as thumbnails).

It was shot from the top of a cliff from over a thousand feet, but can't use that as an excuse for it. It was shot back in 2014, and only about 2-weeks after I first got the camera, it may even have been accidentally on "manual" focus because I was more concerned about "timing".

I apologize for the image, and will never post it again ...

(BTW: half of the other shots are from about 1.5-miles away ... )

I also have several shots about 6.5-miles away, (w/ digital-zoom @ 3200mm).
 
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This is terrible, you must have made a mistake posting this

(not saying you made your case with the others)
THANK YOU !!!

That photo is indeed unacceptably fuzzy ... I admit I have never printed nor looked at it closely before, (only as thumbnails).

It was shot from the top of a cliff from over a thousand feet, but can't use that as an excuse for it. It was shot back in 2014, and only about 2-weeks after I first got the camera, it may even have been accidentally on "manual" focus because I was more concerned about "timing".

I apologize for the image, and will never post it again ...

(BTW: half of the other shots are from about 1.5-miles away ... )
OK. thanks for clarifying.

So the take away message for me from your images is that if I ever have to take a photo from 1.5+ miles away from the subject to definitely not use your preferred camera and instead use something much more capable because the image quality from your camera is no where near what i need and want.
I also have several shots about 6.5-miles away, (w/ digital-zoom @ 3200mm).
--
* exposure - amount of light striking the sensor per unit area while the shutter is open
** optimal exposure - the maximum exposure* within dof and motion blur requirements without clipping important highlights.
Canon 90D, 600D, Photoshop Elements with Elements+, Elements XXL
 
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This is terrible, you must have made a mistake posting this

(not saying you made your case with the others)
THANK YOU !!!

That photo is indeed unacceptably fuzzy ... I admit I have never printed nor looked at it closely before, (only as thumbnails).

It was shot from the top of a cliff from over a thousand feet, but can't use that as an excuse for it. It was shot back in 2014, and only about 2-weeks after I first got the camera, it may even have been accidentally on "manual" focus because I was more concerned about "timing".

I apologize for the image, and will never post it again ...

(BTW: half of the other shots are from about 1.5-miles away ... )
OK. thanks for clarifying.

So the take away message for me from your images is that if I ever have to take a photo from 1.5+ miles away from the subject to definitely not use your preferred camera and instead use something much more capable because the image quality from your camera is no where near what i need and want.
It looks to me like I was in manual focus, because I was indeed experimenting with the camera a lot since it was so new.

As a "new" camera (two-weeks), I think I might have been comparing the response time between AF and MF, (and most concerned w/ "timing" than actual focus).

I had never had a camera w/ so many options & features I was experimenting with, (and it was a "vacation" trip, not one specifically for "photography" -- as some of my trips have been).

And I was only in Oahu for 4-days and we moved fast. That photo is not one I have printed/sold.
I also have several shots about 6.5-miles away, (w/ digital-zoom @ 3200mm).
 
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My take away message posted earlier is not just from that surfer shot.

The flaws in all your posted photos were highlighted earlier by ausjena and are consistent with comments posted by FingerPainter and others in other threads where you post the same group of photos.

I am puzzled as to why someone with supposedly the amount of experience you claim to have, those images are the best you can come up with to support your opinions of your preferred camera's image quality.

But if you are happy with the quality of the sooc jpegs from your camera, all well and good and so just keep doing what works best for you. No-one is telling you to do anything differently.

I can produce higher quality images than the sooc jpegs you post by manually post processing my camera's raw image data and so I will keep doing what works best for me.

--
* exposure - amount of light striking the sensor per unit area while the shutter is open
** optimal exposure - the maximum exposure* within dof and motion blur requirements without clipping important highlights.
Canon 90D, 600D, Photoshop Elements with Elements+, Elements XXL
 
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My take away message posted earlier is not just from that surfer shot.

The flaws in all your posted photos were highlighted earlier by ausjena and are consistent with comments posted by FingerPainter and others in other threads where you post the same group of photos.

I am puzzled as to why someone with supposedly the amount of experience you claim to have, those images are the best you can come up with to support your opinions of your preferred camera's image quality.

But if you are happy with the quality of the sooc jpegs from your camera, all well and good and so just keep doing what works best for you. No-one is telling you to do anything differently.

I can produce higher quality images than the sooc jpegs you post by manually post processing my camera's raw image data and so I will keep doing what works best for me.
I do not doubt that "you" can.

But this is a beginners forum, often questions about "first" camera, often for basic family/travel, and obviously not experienced w/ PS/LR.

And everyone has a budget.

However most are not familiar w/ "bridge" cameras and I feel a responsibility to FULLY inform them of options they not only don't know, but ANY MENTION of them will get a negative response as I ALWAYS do here.

I keep asking the question, (and never get an answer), as to what is better ...

1.) A FEW images of optimum IQ, taken with a camera w/ fewer options & features ...

or ...

2.) 10X more images because of available speed & convenience and additional options & features, (than otherwise possible at a TOTAL budget price of $500/$800) ???

I submit the photos are good examples to beginners as to what the camera is capable of , w/out PP skills.

I still maintain that presenting SOOC is the only way to compare "cameras", (not PP skills).

I have also mentioned that most all of my photos were from the first two months after its purchase because my life-situation changed and I have not traveled (much) since, so all my shooting now is more local.

I also still work 2-jobs, and simply don't have time to PP.

I also point out that most of my photos were indeed approximately 1.5 miles away, (and some 6.5-miles w/ digital-zoom).

The 1.5 mile shots include the Capitol/Moon @ 800mm, the volcano/fire, the church, and waterfall, etc.

I show both (25-400/800mm extremes), and it may not be obvious but some were only (easily/fast) possible with Fully-Articulating LCD, (which is more common now on cameras but was unique when the FZ1000 was released), and SUN-light fill-flash only possible w/ "LEAF" shutter.

I challenge anyone to reproduce equivalent SOOC shots from a "$500" camera/lens.

And I have no-doubt they indeed could be improved w/ PP, but if I am able to sell them as-is for $700, (and NEVER had anyone comment negatively about them), then why-not ???
 
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My take away message posted earlier is not just from that surfer shot.

The flaws in all your posted photos were highlighted earlier by ausjena and are consistent with comments posted by FingerPainter and others in other threads where you post the same group of photos.

I am puzzled as to why someone with supposedly the amount of experience you claim to have, those images are the best you can come up with to support your opinions of your preferred camera's image quality.

But if you are happy with the quality of the sooc jpegs from your camera, all well and good and so just keep doing what works best for you. No-one is telling you to do anything differently.

I can produce higher quality images than the sooc jpegs you post by manually post processing my camera's raw image data and so I will keep doing what works best for me.
I do not doubt that "you" can.

But this is a beginners forum, often questions about "first" camera, often for basic family/travel, and obviously not experienced w/ PS/LR.
Some are and some aren't.
And everyone has a budget.
Very few actually declare what their budget is.
However most are not familiar w/ "bridge" cameras and I feel a responsibility to FULLY inform them of options they not only don't know,
That's fine and the whole purpose of a Beginners Forum.

And other people feel they have a responsibility to inform them of other and possibly better options.
but ANY MENTION of them will get a negative response as I ALWAYS do here.
I have also seen you many times criticise other people's suggestions.
I keep asking the question, (and never get an answer), as to what is better ...'
That is not true. I, for one, have answered the question and I will answer again to refresh your memory.
1.) A FEW images of optimum IQ, taken with a camera w/ fewer options & features ...
For me personally, image quality is my main priority. If another camera has options/features I do not need and so will never use then they are redundant and irrelevent.
or ...

2.) 10X more images because of available speed & convenience and additional options & features, (than otherwise possible at a TOTAL budget price of $500/$800) ???
For me personally any camera, regardless of its features, options and price tag that cannot produce the image quality I want is not a consideration for me.

Everyone will have their own personal answer to that question according to their needs and preferences and so there is no 100% right or wrong answer that must apply to everyone.
I submit the photos are good examples to beginners as to what the camera is capable of , w/out PP skills.
No problem, but describing those photos as good examples is just an opinion and you seem to struggle when people have a different opinion to yours of the quality of those images.

As I posted earlier, the images you posted are well short of the quality I want now and even when I started out as a beginner which is the main reason I quickly out grew my initial point and shoot camera.
I still maintain that presenting SOOC is the only way to compare "cameras", (not PP skills).
That is just a rinse and repeat of your opinion and my reply is still the same.

SOOC jpegs can justifiably be used to make an individual assessment of the quality of a camera's image quality which is what I and others have done based on your posted images.
I have also mentioned that most all of my photos were from the first two months after its purchase because my life-situation changed and I have not traveled (much) since, so all my shooting now is more local.
Irrelevent. Why not post more recent images.
I also still work 2-jobs, and simply don't have time to PP.
No problem That is your choice to make.

But I'm not sure that is entirely true because you seem to have plenty of time posting here on DPR :-) which could be used to learn how to process raw images and so significantly improve your image quality compared to the sooc jpegs you post.
I also point out that most of my photos were indeed approximately 1.5 miles away, (and some 6.5-miles w/ digital-zoom).
That is just another rinse and repeat.

No problem and that is why I posted if I ever need to take photos from those or greater distances I would not consider your preferred camera based on the image quality of the images you posted
The 1.5 mile shots include the Capitol/Moon @ 800mm, the volcano/fire, the church, and waterfall, etc.

I challenge anyone to reproduce equivalent SOOC shots from a "$500" camera/lens.
I don't doubt that is the best you can do with your preferred camera under those conditions. But you seem to have difficulty coping with someone not wanting to use your preferred camera under those conditions and so wanting and/or choosing to use something much more capable to take those long range photos.
And I have no-doubt they indeed could be improved w/ PP, but if I am able to sell them as-is for $700, (and NEVER had anyone comment negatively about them), then why-not ???
Whether you actually sell any prints or not is irrelevant because I cannot verify if it is true and it doesn't change the image quality which is well short of what I need/want.

So just continue doing what works best for you and I and other people will do what works best for us individually.

If you have anything new and on-topic to contribute then feel free to do so otherwise the Complain button will be clicked on further rinse and repeats.

--
* exposure - amount of light striking the sensor per unit area while the shutter is open
** optimal exposure - the maximum exposure* within dof and motion blur requirements without clipping important highlights.
Canon 90D, 600D, Photoshop Elements with Elements+, Elements XXL
 
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However most are not familiar w/ "bridge" cameras and I feel a responsibility to FULLY inform them of options they not only don't know, but ANY MENTION of them will get a negative response as I ALWAYS do here.
In general anyone advocating a bridge camera, superzoom or even mobile phone camera to a user is met with a neutral response, or even positive one.

You do seem to often get a negative response, but the reasons for that are very different.

You likely haven't noticed but you tend to behave like the religous nutcases who want to forcefeed their personal belief system to others. That is what tends to cause the negative reaction you've observed.
I keep asking the question, (and never get an answer), as to what is better ...
Or you refuse to register the answers?
1.) A FEW images of optimum IQ, taken with a camera w/ fewer options & features ...

or ...

2.) 10X more images because of available speed & convenience and additional options & features, (than otherwise possible at a TOTAL budget price of $500/$800) ???
It's a matter of personal preference. I prefer to take relatively few pictures of as good quality - both artistic and techical - as I can. Someone else might want to take a million snapshots and that's just fine. It is however not your job to decide for others what they should do. Some prefer quality and get a kick out of that, others prefer quantity and get a kick out of that and others may have even weirder perversions they get kick out of.

Also, what you claim above sounds like a marketing speech. Little content, lots of noise. Almost like it were directly taken from some TV telemarketing channel.
I submit the photos are good examples to beginners as to what the camera is capable of , w/out PP skills.
I commented your sample photos and you naturally ignored the comments. In general the photos were of rather poor quality - (from artistic point of view a couple were perfectly fine though, but not the topic here). Even the better ones had limited maximum vieweing size by my standards. However, your standards and my standards are likely very different, just like the standards of everyone else. You might want to accept that your standards are not a universal truth.
I still maintain that presenting SOOC is the only way to compare "cameras", (not PP skills).
That is a very narrow fundamentalist view. Not at all dissimilar to views of all kinds of cults.

It might be a good idea if you were to open your mind to other ideas a bit.

Btw, do you see any contradiction in that you advocate the flexibility of the superzoom, while also the inflexibility of SOOC?

I have also mentioned that most all of my photos were from the first two months after its purchase because my life-situation changed and I have not traveled (much) since, so all my shooting now is more local.

I also still work 2-jobs, and simply don't have time to PP.
None of that means that other people should not be allowed to shoot raw and process (not post process) their shots, or do what ever they want.
I also point out that most of my photos were indeed approximately 1.5 miles away, (and some 6.5-miles w/ digital-zoom).

The 1.5 mile shots include the Capitol/Moon @ 800mm, the volcano/fire, the church, and waterfall, etc.
None of this explains the poor technical quality of the shots you've presented as evidence of the all conquering power of your superzoom.

But if you're happy with it, great! That's what counts. It does not however mean that others must share your preferences.

I show both (25-400/800mm extremes), and it may not be obvious but some were only (easily/fast) possible with Fully-Articulating LCD, (which is more common now on cameras but was unique when the FZ1000 was released), and SUN-light fill-flash only possible w/ "LEAF" shutter.

I challenge anyone to reproduce equivalent SOOC shots from a "$500" camera/lens.
Most mobile phones are capable of similar quality to your shots. Many achieve much better quality as they don't have such extreme overprocessed look.

And I have no-doubt they indeed could be improved w/ PP, but if I am able to sell them as-is for $700, (and NEVER had anyone comment negatively about them), then why-not ???
Good for you. Absolutely irrelevant for anyone else in this forum though.
 

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