I currently have a Panasonic FZ300 Bridge camera that I am quite pleased with. I use it primarily for backyard birding photography. I'm finding it to be a short on the optical zoom for when I am out in the park areas.
The Panasonic FZ300 has a 1 2/3 sensor and is a 12 megapixel camera. I have been shooting with it for 2 years and am looking to upgrade.
If I were to get a camera with a similar optical zoom but with a 1" sensor would it improve the quality / clarity of the photos? (I'm getting alot of blurring when lens is fully extended). I have read quite a bit about the differences between sensor sizes but I'm struggling to understand how it affects quality of the photo.
My photo taking is for my own pleasure (I mostly view via laptop) and I don't blow things up for prints etc. Of the newer bridge cameras I have been viewing (not the Sony RX10 lV - too large and beyond my budget) they all seem to be 1" sensors / with more MP (18 -20 MP). But the optical zoom isn't much different (and sometimes less) than my FZ300.
I'm not sure it would be helpful - but I'm currently looking at :
- Panasonic FZ1000 ll
- Panasonic FZ2500
I have read the reviews and done the side by side comparisons - but I am still very much a beginner and don't understand a fair bit.
Thank you for your time with this.
It can be helpful to take a step back to understand the real issues with sensor size.
First of all, with the same subject, at the same angle of view, same shutter speed, same aperture diameter, and same quality lens, you will get essentially the same image.
By "
essentially the same image" I mean same motion blur, same depth of field, same diffraction issues, same overall image noise, etc. In other words, the images should look visually the same.
Let's take a moment to talk about "aperture". Your lens has a variable size, roughly circular hole in it. When you open the aperture you are making the hole larger, and when you stop down, you are making the hole smaller.
For historical reasons centered around the needs of film, we generally don't refer to the diameter of the aperture hole. Instead we refer to the ratio of the focal length to the aperture diameter.
When we say the aperture is "f/4", that's literally an algebraic formula for the aperture diameter. It states that the aperture diameter is the focal length ("f") divided by 4. If the lens is a 100mm lens, the aperture diameter is 25mm. With a 50mm lens, the aperture diameter f/4 is 12.5mm.
Let's consider a 2X crop body compared to a full frame body. If you are shooting the full frame with a 50mm lens at f/4 that's a 46° angle of view and a 12.5mm aperture diameter.
With a 2X crop body, you would need a 25mm lens to match the 46° angle of view, and f/2 to get that same 12.5mm aperture diameter.
The fundamental advantage of a full frame camera is that you generally have the option of larger aperture diameters than with a smaller sensor. If you are shooting the full frame at f/1.8, you would need f/0.9 on a 2X crop in order to match aperture diameter.
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Now let's take a look at the FZ2500. That camera has a crop factor of about 2.7X. This means that a 100mm lens on the FZ2500 yields the same angle of view as a 270mm lens on a full frame.
The FZ2500 lens zooms from 8.9 to 178mm (that yields the same angle of views as 24-480mm on a full frame). The aperture ranges from f/2.8 to f/4.5
At 178mm the maximum aperture is f/4.5. That's the same angle of view and aperture diameter as a full frame with a 480mm lens at f/12.2.
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Now let's take a look at why a bird image might not be sharp. First of all, at that small aperture diameter, diffraction is an issue. The diffraction blur is larger than the pixel size, and limits your sharpness. There is no way you can get a pixel sharp 20 megapixel image at full zoom.
Next, you need to consider the quality of the lens. It's a real challenge to make an affordable, high quality lens with a 20:1 zoom range. It's possible the quality of your lens is also affecting sharpness.
Next, there are issues of motion blur if your shutter speed is too low.
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When shooting birds, physics is the challenge. You need a wide enough aperture to avoid diffraction issues. You need a wide enough aperture to let in enough light for a shutter speed fast enough to avoid motion blur. But you need the aperture small enough that you get enough depth of field.
Small sensor cameras limit your maximum aperture size, and this can be a problem.
On the other hand, if you are making prints, you may not need 20 megapixels. 9 megapixels is more than enough for an 8x10 print at 300 pixels per inch. So the question is what quality do you need? Do you want to be able to pixel peep and see a sharp image, or are you happy with quality good enough for a sharp print?