Michael Floyd
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Thank you Jim! I really appreciate you saying so.
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**This week with your MF camera, Feb 4-10 2023**
- Thread starter JimKasson
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brick33308
Veteran Member
I like the low contrast slightly warm colors, give them a retro look. Nice job.View attachment 909ded96e88241e1973d431c6f3a775d.jpg
Some fun yesterday with the GFX50S II and the 35-70 and 80mm for an engagement shoot with friends.
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IJF Photostream - Irwin
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Last Mango
Leading Member
Beautiful, where is this location if you don't mind me asking?Insane sunset last night. Wished I had been on the beach, but climbed the stairs to our flat roof instead.
GFX100s GF 100 - 200
4 minute exposure
Singingsnapper
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Port Talbot, South Wales UKBeautiful, where is this location if you don't mind me asking?Insane sunset last night. Wished I had been on the beach, but climbed the stairs to our flat roof instead.
GFX100s GF 100 - 200
4 minute exposure
AndyGordon
Senior Member
Both OOC JPEGs for a change
GFX 50R + 32-64
Singingsnapper
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GFX100s GF 20 - 35, handheld on a bridge on a busy road
Last edited:
themediocreenthusiast
Senior Member
massive storm yesterday and everything just turned white infront. snapped some boring shots but looks interesting after edit
jpegsooc
View attachment 65b58115affe4b1481a691df6f836a8b.jpg
AuroraHDR *Dynamic BW
View attachment 3edd439454f1479f852316e514fba191.jpg
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Just another average Joe from Asia
jpegsooc
View attachment 65b58115affe4b1481a691df6f836a8b.jpg
AuroraHDR *Dynamic BW
View attachment 3edd439454f1479f852316e514fba191.jpg
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Just another average Joe from Asia
SigmaChrome
Forum Pro
Fascinating effect. How did you produce it?
You've achieved a wonderful film grain look here, very nice!
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Bradk
“This then: to photograph a rock, have it look like a rock, but be more than a rock.” – Edward Weston
Cheap tricks and photoshop. And ordinary water, laced with nothing more than a few spoonfuls of LSD.
In this case, the iso is 1600 as a starting point and I used this sheet of weird-colored cellophane stuff in front of the lens. I only point out the iso because I think the noise was a contributing factor to the final result. From there its a matter of drawing/painting, changing layer modes, and layering in patterns and textures until you're content.
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weihaowang
Well-known member
I was in western Australia for two weeks last month, to shoot the southern sky. I took a few shots with an astro-modified GFX-100S and GF23mm/F4. Overall, the 23mm lens is decent, the CMOS in 100S is very sensitive, but the camera itself is very disappointing.
This is one of the 23mm shots I took. It contains 17 5-minute exposures at ISO1600 taken with a tracker. The lens aperture is wide open. 4 of the 17 exposures were taken with a diffuse filter to boat the bright stars a little bit. If I don't do this, the constellations, like the Crux (left-hand side, soaked in the Milky Way), will be hardly visible, because the lens is so sharp that even the bright stars will look tiny.
Milky Way, Southern Cross, and the Large and Small Magellanic Clouds
Why did I say the camera is disappointing? First of all, GFX is known for having hot pixel suppression (aka star eater) on long exposures and that cannot be turned off from the camera menu. Because of this, the stars are not as sharp as what the lens is capable to deliver. Quite many stars even have black holes in the middle. I found this on my 50R, and it also exists on 100S.
Next is the camera image processing, which produces circular color banding on long exposure images. For example, the above picture looks like this after stars are removed and after strong contrast stretching:
Circular color banding near the corners.
A more horrible example is this (taken with an astronomical telescope and GFX-100S):
In this one, you don't even need to remove stars to see the circular banding in the background.
The color banding only exists on long exposure images, so it cannot be removed with the standard flat-fielding technique in astrophotography. Mark Shelley thinks it is some hard coded noise reduction. Again, it cannot be turned off from the menu. Astrophotographers always turn off everything on the menu, and so did I. Yet this still happens. Interestingly, I never notice similar things on 50R when I tried to take equally deep exposures using the same lenses or telescopes. It only occurs on 100S.
Anyway, despite this, I tried to make the best from this trip. This is another GFX-100S + GF23mm photo:
180 degree Milky Way, from Gemini to Scorpius
This is a three-panel panorama. The total exposure time to create this image is slightly more than five hours. Because of the color banding issue, seamlessly sticking them together is extremely challenging. I managed to do it, but I probably will not try anything similar again with GFX-100S, until the problem is fixed. In addition to these two pictures, I actually shoot more than 200GB of images with 100S (and GF110mm). (Consider this, one exposure is 5 minutes, not 0.05 seconds. 200GB of astrophotography raw data is actually a lot in astrophotographic standard.) But I just don't feel like to process them any more.
When I discovered the star eater problem on my 50R a few years back, I sent a request to Fuji to fix this through a Fuji-contracted photographer. The message either never reached Fuji, or it got ignored. I don't quite believe Fuji will ever try to resolve this. Earlier this week I contacted those who are trying to hack Fuji firmware. Maybe there is some hope for my 100S to reach its full potential, after whatever internal processes that eat stars and cause color bandings get turned off through the hacking. I hope this will happen in months.
Sorry if I sound too negative.
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This is one of the 23mm shots I took. It contains 17 5-minute exposures at ISO1600 taken with a tracker. The lens aperture is wide open. 4 of the 17 exposures were taken with a diffuse filter to boat the bright stars a little bit. If I don't do this, the constellations, like the Crux (left-hand side, soaked in the Milky Way), will be hardly visible, because the lens is so sharp that even the bright stars will look tiny.
Milky Way, Southern Cross, and the Large and Small Magellanic Clouds
Why did I say the camera is disappointing? First of all, GFX is known for having hot pixel suppression (aka star eater) on long exposures and that cannot be turned off from the camera menu. Because of this, the stars are not as sharp as what the lens is capable to deliver. Quite many stars even have black holes in the middle. I found this on my 50R, and it also exists on 100S.
Next is the camera image processing, which produces circular color banding on long exposure images. For example, the above picture looks like this after stars are removed and after strong contrast stretching:
Circular color banding near the corners.
A more horrible example is this (taken with an astronomical telescope and GFX-100S):
In this one, you don't even need to remove stars to see the circular banding in the background.
The color banding only exists on long exposure images, so it cannot be removed with the standard flat-fielding technique in astrophotography. Mark Shelley thinks it is some hard coded noise reduction. Again, it cannot be turned off from the menu. Astrophotographers always turn off everything on the menu, and so did I. Yet this still happens. Interestingly, I never notice similar things on 50R when I tried to take equally deep exposures using the same lenses or telescopes. It only occurs on 100S.
Anyway, despite this, I tried to make the best from this trip. This is another GFX-100S + GF23mm photo:
180 degree Milky Way, from Gemini to Scorpius
This is a three-panel panorama. The total exposure time to create this image is slightly more than five hours. Because of the color banding issue, seamlessly sticking them together is extremely challenging. I managed to do it, but I probably will not try anything similar again with GFX-100S, until the problem is fixed. In addition to these two pictures, I actually shoot more than 200GB of images with 100S (and GF110mm). (Consider this, one exposure is 5 minutes, not 0.05 seconds. 200GB of astrophotography raw data is actually a lot in astrophotographic standard.) But I just don't feel like to process them any more.
When I discovered the star eater problem on my 50R a few years back, I sent a request to Fuji to fix this through a Fuji-contracted photographer. The message either never reached Fuji, or it got ignored. I don't quite believe Fuji will ever try to resolve this. Earlier this week I contacted those who are trying to hack Fuji firmware. Maybe there is some hope for my 100S to reach its full potential, after whatever internal processes that eat stars and cause color bandings get turned off through the hacking. I hope this will happen in months.
Sorry if I sound too negative.
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Choke55
Member
Glad to have all kind of comments!
RhonaldJR
Leading Member
This one is a beautyBeen super busy with work, not a lot of photo time. I got around to editing these shots from rickett's glen awhile back.
this is a 2-shot focus stack
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Take a deep breath before pressing that shutter release button; it helps.
RhonaldJR
Leading Member
Love this
--
Take a deep breath before pressing that shutter release button; it helps.
RhonaldJR
Leading Member
Good to know. I am planning some nighttime photography this spring with the GFX-100s + GF 32-64mm or GF 20-35mm lensI was in western Australia for two weeks last month, to shoot the southern sky. I took a few shots with an astro-modified GFX-100S and GF23mm/F4. Overall, the 23mm lens is decent, the CMOS in 100S is very sensitive, but the camera itself is very disappointing.
This is one of the 23mm shots I took. It contains 17 5-minute exposures at ISO1600 taken with a tracker. The lens aperture is wide open. 4 of the 17 exposures were taken with a diffuse filter to boat the bright stars a little bit. If I don't do this, the constellations, like the Crux (left-hand side, soaked in the Milky Way), will be hardly visible, because the lens is so sharp that even the bright stars will look tiny.
Milky Way, Southern Cross, and the Large and Small Magellanic Clouds
Why did I say the camera is disappointing? First of all, GFX is known for having hot pixel suppression (aka star eater) on long exposures and that cannot be turned off from the camera menu. Because of this, the stars are not as sharp as what the lens is capable to deliver. Quite many stars even have black holes in the middle. I found this on my 50R, and it also exists on 100S.
Next is the camera image processing, which produces circular color banding on long exposure images. For example, the above picture looks like this after stars are removed and after strong contrast stretching:
A more horrible example is this (taken with an astronomical telescope and GFX-100S):
In this one, you don't even need to remove stars to see the circular banding in the background.
The color banding only exists on long exposure images, so it cannot be removed with the standard flat-fielding technique in astrophotography. Mark Shelley thinks it is some hard coded noise reduction. Again, it cannot be turned off from the menu. Astrophotographers always turn off everything on the menu, and so did I. Yet this still happens. Interestingly, I never notice similar things on 50R when I tried to take equally deep exposures using the same lenses or telescopes. It only occurs on 100S.
Anyway, despite this, I tried to make the best from this trip. This is another GFX-100S + GF23mm photo:
This is a three-panel panorama. The total exposure time to create this image is slightly more than five hours. Because of the color banding issue, seamlessly sticking them together is extremely challenging. I managed to do it, but I probably will not try anything similar again with GFX-100S, until the problem is fixed. In addition to these two pictures, I actually shoot more than 200GB of images with 100S (and GF110mm). (Consider this, one exposure is 5 minutes, not 0.05 seconds. 200GB of astrophotography raw data is actually a lot in astrophotographic standard.) But I just don't feel like to process them any more.
When I discovered the star eater problem on my 50R a few years back, I sent a request to Fuji to fix this through a Fuji-contracted photographer. The message either never reached Fuji, or it got ignored. I don't quite believe Fuji will ever try to resolve this. Earlier this week I contacted those who are trying to hack Fuji firmware. Maybe there is some hope for my 100S to reach its full potential, after whatever internal processes that eat stars and cause color bandings get turned off through the hacking. I hope this will happen in months.
Sorry if I sound too negative.
--
Take a deep breath before pressing that shutter release button; it helps.
Flipped L/R?H2, 150mm. Lomo 400. Anyone care to guess the one big correction I made? I suspect the more discerning eyes around here will notice immediately.
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the last word the last word - Photography meets digital computer technology. Photography wins -- most of the time.
Photography meets digital computer technology. Photography wins -- most of the time.
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