I'm new to The MF world. I just got a Fuji GFX100S and the GF110 f2.0 and the GF23 f4 lens. This will be used in a small home studio. In the little research I have done, I'm looking for a system that I can utilize my system with a Tilt-Shift.
I'm looking at this system has anyone used this and what was their experience with it.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256....pic_13&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US
I'm not interested in any of the cambo stuff, it's way overpriced for me.
I'm not sure about how this would actually work with the camera and lenses I have.
Any input would be appreciated.
How much tilt-shift you need and at what focal lengths?
Not sure how much tilt-shift I will need never used a tilt-shift lens. This is the first time for MFormat and a tilt-shift system. I think the GH110mm F2 lens is what I will be using the most as I'm going to be shooting Still-Life, Products, and Food Images.
Your last statement makes me wonder how much of this type of photography you've done. I do a lot of still life and product (food not so much) and my first choice of lenses are almost always tilt-shift lenses. The shift function is what is used the most. Almost never tilt or swing them, but never say never. I use all of the Canon t/s lenses adapted to the GFX and one of the other features that is most appreciated on the three most recent lenses is that they all focus to half life size natively, and with their floating element systems, the optical quality is superb all the way down to the minimum focus distance. I simply can't imagine choosing the 110mm as my go to lens for this type of imagery. Maybe for a specialized shot every once in a long while but definitely not very often.
Well, your right, I've only been shooting Studio Still-Life and Product for about 2 years now. I have used a Nikon Z6 and a 105mm f2.8 Z lens. in that time period. I have been doing a lot of focus stacking and blending to complete my images. Based on what I have read the 110mm lens is equal to about 86mm in FF, and that should be fine with the GFX100S? Like I said, I'm not super experienced in the studio world, but I really enjoy it.
Could you explain to me why you would use a FF Lens adapted to a MFormat Body? I don't understand focusing to half size, never heard of that.
Why would I use a FF lens adapted to the GFX? Because a bunch of them work extraordinarily well and those three Canon tilt-shift lenses, the 50mm, the 90mm v2, and the 135mm are phenomenal optical performing lenses. If you're used to shooting with a 105 on 35mm the 135mm would be very close to that but a tick longer equivalent.
In the world of macro photography many things are referred to by what's called the "reproduction ratio". That means that the image size on the film or the sensor is a specific ratio to the actual size of the object in real life. It's common to see the ration expressed as something like 1:4 or 1:3 or 1:2 or 1:1 with 1:1 meaning that the image on the sensor is the same size as the object in real life, or it's "life sized". Lenses like those three Canon lenses I just mentioned all focus down to 1:2 ratio or half life sized. A very important consideration when shooting small products or things.
Jim mentioned also adapting a medium format macro lens which is a great way to go as well. He mentions the Pentax 120mm f/4 but I'm going to toss out a recommendation for the Contax 645 120mm f/4, which is an exemplary performer on GFX. Either one will work quite well. I picked up a great condition used copy of that lens for under $800 from Sean at Camera West in Palm Springs and luckily Fringer has a very good smart adapter for all the Contax 645 lenses. The adapter ain't cheap but it's very good and both the Contax macro and the Pentax macro focus down to 1:1 or life sized with no added extension tubes required and they both have internal floating elements to optimize the optical performance for all focusing distances. The advantage of these two lenses on the GFX is that you don't need any sort of focusing bellow assembly to use them. They just work. The disadvantage is that they're limited to 1:1 reproduction ratios (life sized) without using extension tubes which will degrade the image quality, and, of course, they have no tilting or shifting ability. In my opinion, FWIW, in order to have all the tools necessary to do top quality work in this field, you need all the options described here.
